V8Darren

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    16
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About V8Darren

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 12/13/1977

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Darren
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus CC Mk2.5
  • Ford Year
    2008
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Hampshire
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Modification
    Computers & Electronics
  1. Damn, that's a lot of cables.You must have an RCA in every output on the back of your head unit. Luckily for me, I only have the 1 RCA for the reversing camera at the moment (no external amps of rear screens etc), 2 USBs, 1 phono AV, and an HDMI. Looks like I'm going to have to fit a switch for the reversing camera, or run a cable all the way to the back, which I was trying to avoid.
  2. Thanks for all that info Lenny, though unfortunately it didn't really cover the info I needed about the leads. In the end I called up the technical team at Connects2 audio accessories, who make the leads. Just in case there's anyone else in my situation, here's how to find out which lead you need (applied to focus' from around 2004 to 2011). Remove the existing head unit from the car Remove the quadlock from the back of the unit NOTE: YOU WILL NEED YOUR RADIO CODE as this will clear it, it may also wipe your favorite radio stations/settings. Using this diagram and a multimeter put the positive lead from the multimeter on Connector A - Pin 16 and the negative lead on Connector A - Pin 12. If you switch the ignition to position 2 and you have around 12v there, you need the non-CANBUS lead if you have 0 volts, you need the CANBUS lead. Re-fit your radio and order the correct lead. The codes for the leads are Non-CANBUS - CTSFO002.2 CANBUS - CTSFO003.2 Hope this helps someone. ...now all I need to do is find a feed up front for the reverse switch to activate my camera.
  3. Hi guys, Does anyone have any idea on how to determine the correct adapter lead from quadlock to ISO. I have searched car audio sites with my exact model and year, but they all come back with about 4 different varieties of adapter leads. Some are CANBUS with reverse, speed pulse, handbrake etc but without an ignition feed, some don't have the CANBUS but do have the ignition feed. The CANBUS cables usually state from 2007 >, whereas the others are 2005 > (not 2005 > 2007). Can i use any of these leads, only the more expensive CANBUS leads have more features? The actuals steering wheel control part isn't an issue, they all have a box which you plug in the adapter for your specific head unit, it's just knowing which damn lead to get in the first place. My car is a 2008 Focus (Mk2.5) CC-3 with the oval head unit, steering wheel controls, bluetooth, and voice control. Any help would be appreciated.
  4. Thanks for the advice, I'll leave the PCM alone. I have a high speed ELM327 (it will run at 500,000Kbps as standard, can go up to 2,000,000Kbps and has a genuine FTDI chip). I also have this VMC cable, which should allow me to re-program all the PATS stuff if I need to.
  5. I was thinking about upgrading my HEC to enable a few extra features, which version should I go for? My car is a UK spec 2008 Mk2.5 Focus CC 2.0 TDCI and these are the current HEC details: Part# 8V4T-10849-HF Hardware# 8V4T-14C226-AB Strategy# 8V4T-14C026-AA Calibration# 8V4T-14C088-AA Software Version: 18.01.2008 Initial ROM: 230 I'm guessing I'd also need to upgrade the PCM too, which as I understand I can find the correct file at http://civil.iffc.ru/ELMConfig/pcm_frw.htm --- Edit --- My PCM details are Part# 7M51-12A650-ATE Software Version: v.6 (25.09.2006) Firmware version: K7QBSE6 Module type: SID83M So I guess the correct firmware would be Engine | Module | Transmisson | File name | Module Number | 2.0L 136PS TDCi | SID83M | MT / MMT6 | 7M51ATE_TXT | 7M51-12A650-ATE | Description | Release date | DW10BTED4 C214/C307/S389 Stage4 aDPF | 06/04/2009 |
  6. V8Darren

    Flexdrive From Adrian Flux Insurance

    I was kind of hoping that FlexDrive was going to be a nicely reduced multi-car policy as you can't drive 2 cars at once ;)
  7. V8Darren

    Newbie Needs Urgent Help With Spare Tyre!

    To change the temperature to Celsius but retain distance, fuel consumption etc in imperial measurements, use the menu stalk on the side of your steering wheel and scroll through the screens until you come across the outside air temperature. When you do, hold the set button and it will change from Fahrenheit to Celsius. This will also change on your AC controller at the same time.
  8. V8Darren

    Focus St Tdci

    DPFs are ok so long as they can regenerate, which involves around 20-30 minutes (in one go) driving at motorway speeds a month. They also need a regen fluid refil every 75000 miles. Failure to regen properly will eventually lead to needing a new DPF, which I believe is about £1000 at a Ford dealer. ...or, you can take it off, cut off the top, pull out the insides, weld in a pipe connecting the front and back which is the same diameter as your standard pipe, weld the top back on, and have the DPF deleted in the ECU.
  9. V8Darren

    Airplay In Car

    This reminded me of a Mighty Car Mods episode I watched a while ago. You may find this interesting... https://youtu.be/qyey7tzbEFY
  10. V8Darren

    FOC GAMERTAG LIST

    XBOX Live - V8 Darren I'm mainly on XBOX ONE, mainly Forza ;)
  11. V8Darren

    Newbie From Portsmouth

    Just in case it's of interest, a faulty fan was the culprit with the air con.
  12. V8Darren

    Quick Qyestion About Stereo

    That sounds pretty strange to me as when the engine is running, they key is in position 2, position 3 is just a momentary position to activate the starter motor. It may be worth taking the radio out and checking for a switched live. On an ISO radio loom this will be either the red or yellow cable, but I don't know which colour it would be on the Ford multi-plug. The switched live on the radio should be live with the key in position 1. After a quick google, these should be the cable positions So you'd want to test pin 16 on part A of the quadlock plug. If you've got no power there in position 2 or 1, you may have a break in the cable, so you could replace that with a new cable from a source that's only live with the key in position 1. If you do have switched power there, the problem is in your head unit.
  13. Hi, I need to put a name to a part on my Dad's 2.0 TDCi Focus C-Max. I believe it's a return hose (hard plastic) from the intercooler that goes into a Y piece and into the inlet manifold. Don't really understand why there's a Y which seems to go to both sides of the intercooler, the colder and more dense the air, the better. The hose is identified in my photo with a blue arrow, but the actual part I need is the yellow/green arrow, which is like a rubber seal with an integrated jubilee clip. The rubber has been mullered and needs replacing, most likely during oil changes as the oil filter is in the most stupid place I've ever seen on any engine! It seem like Ford deliberately put things that regularly need attention in stupid places, probably so that the jobs take longer and they can charge more labour time, but that's another story. Anyway, if anyone could help me name the seal/jubilee clip thingy, that would be great. Oh, any reason why it would be oily In the hose?
  14. Firstly, I have to say that this topic is amazing. Thanks to Preee for starting it and adding a tonne of awesome information, and massive thanks to Sergey for writing the program too. The only downside to this thread is that it's become a bit of a monster, and it can be hard to find specifics buried in a lot of questions and helpful advice. So, mainly for my own benefit, I decided to add a page to my web site to detail how to do specific tasks, so that the information is quick to get at. Even though pretty much no one uses my web site, I still wanted it to look decent and give props where they're due, namely here and to Sergey, and then added a bit of information about getting the adapter as I had a nightmare finding one that worked. So, it's getting a bit bigger than I expected, but It should still simplify the process of finding the information. As I said, I don't want to be treading on anyone's toes, and I'm not getting anything for doing this, just wanted the information to be quicker to get at. Hopefully this will contribute something positive :) http://darrenlines.co.uk/focus-ELM.php I may start adding write-ups of other things I do to the car too. Anyway, please don't think I'm an ar$ehole, it wasn't my intention.
  15. V8Darren

    Newbie From Portsmouth

    My dad had a leak in the condenser, so has had that replaced, but no cold air. The compressor kicks in and out when it's supposed to, there is enough pressure as the pressure sensor is doing it's job, but no cold air. It used to work fine before the condenser issues. The garage who fitted the new condenser think it's an ECU issue and the compressor is building up too much pressure, however I checked the DTC's and there's nothing, and I ran a test on the EATC with Forscan which came back as everything's fine. It's a weird one.