james125

Budding Enthusiast
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    32
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About james125

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • First Name
    James
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Fusion 1.6 TDCI 90PS EURO4
  • Ford Year
    2008
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Cambridgeshire

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  1. Has anyone here used the Torque app to log data from the OBD port? I have been logging some data from my Ford Fusion 1.6 TDCI, during a full accelration pull I have; 92.6 g/s MAF 552.8 cc/min Fuel flow Assuming that the stoichmetric AFR is 14.46 and the fuel has a density of 0.8345 g/cc I have calculated the Lamda as follows; 552.8*60 / 92.6 * 14.46 * 0.8345 = 0.83 This gives a lamda of 0.83. In other words the ECU is putting more fuel in then it has oxygen to burn. I'm assuming a value like this would lead to plumes of black smoke, yet there isn't any with my car. I think there is an error with the OBD reading. Has anybody looked at torque logs before? Any ideas why the fueling is so far off?
  2. I ended up removing the drums and manually adjusting the auto adjusters, on the passanger side the drum was far from the shoes. Ands the shoes had a lot more material on them. I also noticed that the passanger side cable was loose under the chassis. I have know secured it to prevent it moving. The handbrake is a lot better than it was before but it's still not fantastic.
  3. The handbrake on my fusion is very poor, I have to really pull on it to stop it rolling on hills. Surprisingly it's never been an issue for the MOT. I removed the drums and gave them a good clean with some brake cleaner but it has made no difference. Any ideas how to diagnose cable problems? Where to start?
  4. I don't think it's the turbo. I always thought it was the power steering pump.
  5. Thanks for the reply. Shouldn't the MAF signal be from 0 to 5V though?
  6. I'm trying to have a play around with the MAF sensor by modifying the signal the the ECU receives, but I can't quite figure out the pin out. There is nothing in the haynes manual about it. I think it should have a 2nd ground for the chassis and ECU. Anyone know why pin 4 is 14.4V?
  7. For quite a while I have been thinking that the shocks might need replacing. But which ones? Car has done 90k. Seems to be very bouncy on B roads. How can I individually inspect each one? And which ones usually go? Thanks
  8. It does read coolant temperature over the ECU so I assume it must be working?
  9. Took it to Ford they said it needs a new PCM. Sent it off to HDI tuning. It still doesn't work. The ground to the PCM from the starter relay isn't grounded. Maybe it's the immobiliser bit on the steering wheel. I'll order a new one.
  10. Turns out the battery voltage is very low 9.5V! But I tried startling it with a booster pack at 12.6V to no avail. I bridged a wire in the fuse box from a live to the starter and it turned. Also I checked for voltage on the ignition switch input (from the relay input in the fuse box) I reckon it may be something to do with the immobiliser. Is there anyway to check if it is working? What is the red flashing light supposed to do if the immobiliser is recognised? Currently the light just blinks red slowly regardless of if I put the key in or turn it. Thanks in advance.
  11. I just tried to start my car but nothing no click of a solenoid nothing. Had a friend put on some jump leads but still nothing. Any ideas where to go from here? Stage 2 ignition photo supplied.
  12. I ended up using a reciprocating saw and then drilled through the old studs on the cat side. Took ages. Also I mialigned my new holes slightly too. Good luck
  13. I have recently recharged the gas on the low side, it only goes up to 35psi, which is on the low side of the gauge that I bought. Air comes out the vents at 7°C on 26°C day. I think there is plenty of flow, I only ever stick the AC fan on level 2 as that's what the owners manual said is most effective. I changed the pollen filter about a year ago. Any ideas what to try next? Clean the condenser or evaporator perhaps? Failing that perhaps a water sprayer on the condenser for evaporative cooling.
  14. UPDATE: I jacked up the car via the jacking points, gave the compressor an inspection gave it a wiggle looked ok. Checked if any refrigirant was in the AC system, pushed the valve and got a facefull. So I started up the car held the AC down and it stayed on lovely cold air 🙂
  15. Could you dissconnect the bonnet release handle and pull the cable with so pliers? Not too much or the cable may snap.