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RSpilla

Budding Enthusiast
  • Posts

    27
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Profile Information

  • First Name
    ray
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    focus mk3 st
  • Ford Year
    2013
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Lancashire

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RSpilla's Achievements

  1. They are having you on IMO, did you perform the relearn procedure after resetting injector values?
  2. Dont see how they can be damaged, i think they are trying to con you, did you perform the injector relearn process properly after resetting the pilot injection values? I have started a similair thread but i still have the clatter after the process has been completed, there is no smoke in my instance. I dont think there is many people on here who can help us unfortunately. See my thread.
  3. Hello. I had a failed injector on cylinder 1 rendering the car undriveable due to running on 3 cylinders, no amount of tinkering or forscan monitoring would help. I purchased a used injector and coded it in, with injection values reset, i fired it up, it was billowing plumes of white smoke and would not rev at all, after a few minutes it cleared up and began to come to life, running on 4 cylinders now but with a good amount of injector clatter. After some failed attempts and some brand new dashboard can and bcm errors that reared their heads without any codes to identify, I managed to get it through a learning cycle, all 4 injectors eventually got to 7 with the 1500-2500rpm method, then the PICL_INC_CYL numbers started to increase (still i continued the 1500-2500rpm cycles for 50 minutes. I mainly did it in 3rd gear but did some in 4th, 5th and 6th gear, upto 100mph and down to 1500rpm again, what i found was its best to do these tests with the pedal to the floor, as nothing was happening and my values on cylinder 1 were 800 or so, then after a flat out 1500-2500rpm pull in 4th gear, it dropped to 512, the others remained at 0-50, changing once or twice, but nothing as high as CYL-1, nothing i did after that point got these values to change anymore, even 5th and 6th gear pulls, so what i would like to know (as i still have the injector clatter upto about 1500rpm under heavy throttle, after doing all the learning) is what these PICL_INC_CYL numbers mean, and why is cylinder 1 way higher than the rest? Have i been sold a dodgy injector, is a high number good or bad? I have read all the threads i could possibly find, that are available in English relating to the injector relearn procedures and no answer to my question. It seems its a big secret by Ford and they dont want anyone to know how to relearn their car! Because that would leave them out of pocket wouldnt it! Any help or tips would be appreciated. Below is the end result after my 50 minute learn cycle, the numbers wouldnt move anymore no matter what i did. End result, its driveable, most certainly, its quiet at partial throttle and cruising speed, and quiet under wide open throttle after 2500rpm, but still has clatter around the 1000-2000rpm mark, wheres before the old injector failed, it did not have any clatter at all.
  4. RSpilla

    Value

    Depends what 2.9 engine and gearbox is in it. If its just a bog standard 2.9i thats been sat rotting for 5 years, anything close to a grand would be fair i think. If its a 4x4 model, then maybe another few hundred, if its the 2.9 cosworth then its worth a fair bit more. Whats the registration number?
  5. Any updates on this? I changed two injectors around (1 & 3)to see if the fault followed the injector or remained on cylinder 1. i changed the 2 injector codes around in forscan and didnt realise it would also force a pilot reset of all injectors, so now im stuck with a clattery engine that is unable to learn due to the duff injector anyway. Have bit the bullet and ordered a 2nd hand working injector. Any updates or advice? I have read that 10 page thread on forscan forum also.
  6. Can anyone confirm if the wishbone front bush (single bolt) is to be tightened without load or whilst vehicle is sitting at ride height? Im under the impression my previous bush has failed drastically and loosened itself in the casing because it was not tightened at ride height, i have just fitted a new wishbone and dont have access to a haynes manual for this vehicle. Many thanks.
  7. I have a similair issue. High to low side short cyl 1. Car ran on 3 cylinders after a hard pull upto 80mph, limped home and clearing the code immediately brought it back. After many attempts it stayed off, but i was squeezing the loom at the same time whule someone kept pressing reset. 100 miles later it does it again. Cleared code, ran ok until i booted it, came back, high to low side short cyl 1. Removal of injector plug confirms cylinder is dead, now code will clear but its still running rough, not down to 3, very but rough, moving loom around does nothing now, had loom apart upto diesel filter plug, all fine, not sure if its loom or injector.. any pointers for me before i swap injector 1 and 2 around to see if the fault follows the injector or stays on cyl 1 ? Thanks folks.
  8. Hiya, ive just had it all apart, the front wishbone bush (the rubber one with a steel insert) could be turned 90 degrees in its housing and sounded like metal was hitting metal when moving it, its a cheap wishbone, i put it all back together with the bush turned at a different point to where it usually was and the knocking is terrible now, happening all the time, so pretty sure its that which was the issue. New wishbone ordered. Thanks for the help.
  9. Hi bud, yes changed them out already, seems slightly better and the smaller knocks have gone but still getting a big clunk now and again, seems louder but less often now.
  10. Hi guys, been 2 years since my last daily driver was a blue oval, I have purchased a 2011 diesel hatch, it has a few little issues but is very useable, the main issue i am having is a problem that seems to be coming from the nearside front, it will clunk when going off the kerb, it will clunk when pulling away forward after reversing, it will clunk when one side hits a pothole or a bad bit of road but does not clunk when you hit a speed bump flush (both sides evenly) - Now i have discovered when accelerating out of a bend at speed or a fast roundabout it feels like the wheel with the least amount of grip gives a bouncing/fluttering feeling until settled when out the bend, (only under hard throttle) - I have had a pry bar in the wishbones, there is no major movement and the rubbers look good. The tie-bars are intact but one is easily twistable by hand (whole front end up on axles)and the roll bar seems to be able to move side to side a few mm in the rubbers but no up/down movement. I cant see the top mounts but there is no noise turning left and right stationary, the rear dogbone gearbox mount is giving a lot of movement and that needs doing, (could that be causing the clunking?) The wheels are balanced, driveshafts arew ford items and seem ok ok. Can anybody give me any tips of what to look at next/again, visually everything looks ok except the weak tie rod which will be my first port of call i think. Also since its had the weight off the front and had a poke about, the clunking has gotten worse. LOL! Any information would be appreciated. Thanks. Pilla.
  11. Having exactly the same problem with the same paint code. Cant get a straight answer or even an answer at all on any forum.
  12. Hi, im looking for a touch up pen but all the race red pens state PQ as the paint code, however in my door jam it states ZC. Car is a race red ST2 - Can anybody help me figure this out? Thanks.
  13. phone your local dealer and go from there..........
  14. Hi guys, thanks for the replys, much appreciated. Im going to repair it and see if it holds. Im having difficulty locating the valves, or even a cylinder head for that matter, for my exact model. There are plenty of 2002-2008 1.4 16v heads and valves around for sale, but my car is 2009, Also when searching the part number on my cylinder head ( 8A6G 6090 CA ) Alls that i find is romanian language websites for the cylinder head, its strange. What i want to know is: Will the valves (or the head for that matter) from a 2002-2008 1.4 16v fit? or does it have to be the exact part number, I am having trouble finding out what the differnces are. Theres not much info on them. Many thanks for the help. Nik.
  15. Can anyone tell me if the valves are the same size on all duratec engines, i have read the inlet are 35mm and exhaust 30mm, as im finding it difficult to source valves for a 1400 specifically. If they are i could probably get some cheap from a breakers yard, possibly even a complete head. Thanks.
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