briscaF1

Budding Enthusiast
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About briscaF1

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Jerzy
  • Ford Model
    Focus
  • Ford Year
    2010
  • UK/Ireland Location
    West Midlands

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  1. Hi, Did you sort this out? Is the noise when you come off the throttle during gear changes and when you are engine braking? If so, I've got the same problem. Cheers
  2. Hi, Focus 1.6 2010 (100HP) seems to have developed a noise from the engine recently. It's hard to pinpoint when it started but it could have been since a cam belt change last year which was followed fairly closely by a power steering pump pipe leak/failure (now repaired). Engine has done 56k and oil is changed every 12 months / 8k. Water pump was not changed with the belt. Noise isn't so noticeable in the cabin but more so when driving with window open near something that reflects noise. Anyway, when coming off the throttle, e.g. to change gear, or when engine braking to traffic lights, (off throttle, again), there is a noise not unlike rattling a can of dried peas really quickly. The noise seems to go away under acceleration and at idle, which makes it hard to detect. With the bonnet open and engine revved, it also isn't so obvious. At idle, there does appear to be a bit of a "wo-wo-wo" noise but it's not overly obvious although it can be worse when the engine is first started in the morning. A mechanic mate of mine listened to it being revved and said there was nothing really wrong - maybe just a bit of tappet rattle down to wear. Do these lumps get a bit rattly at these mileages? Otherwise, does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks for any help
  3. Any suggestions for a lambda sensor for a MK1 Ka 1.3, '58 plate.im guessing that Ford don't make their own so are NGK / Denso in their list of typical suppliers? Also, are these are pig to swap?
  4. Mine does this, too. 17" zetec wheels running about 33 all round. I've had the car 7 years and it has become more frequent in the last few years. I can pretty much get it to happen on the same sections of road consistently. I've got some canbus diagnostic tools and have read each wheel abs speed and the reference speed off the canbus and the readings are steady during the events. Perhaps it's the yaw sensor or steering wheel position? Friend of mine said Ford were testing cars at Mira or similar years ago due to the ESP being too sensitive but I've never heard of a software update for it.
  5. Lots of the tyre buying sites list tests, mostly from the German motoring press it appears. I tend to look for tyres that are good value from these outcomes. i.e. No point buying the best tyre if it costs £150 a corner when the one that comes close behind in second place costs £90.
  6. On the 1.6 Mk2, I believe the interval is 3 years (Ian has quoted it above). Funnily enough, about a month before 3 years had elapsed on my car, it started having a flat spot on acceleration and running a bit lumpy. Plugs changed to "normal" NGK ones fixed the issue. I change them about every 2.5 years now. Nothing fancy. NGK plugs work fine and you can sometimes get a set from Halfords for about a tenner with a trade card.
  7. I'd be asking for a written statement from the original Ford dealer as to what they did wrong and what they had paid for to put it [not] right.
  8. Curious where the wires run from for the rear dome. I suppose I'd know if I went to the scrapyard but which scrapyards let you walk about and look these days? Does anyone have a routing map of the wiring on the focus?
  9. Hi, There's no interior light above the back seats in my Foci so I thought I'd be an idea to run some LED strip down from the lighting module at the front (wired into it) to the rear. Is there any way of fixing this to the roof lining without damaging it if the strip needs to be removed later? Or is there a better way of doing this? I didn't really want the faff of taking out the roof lining... Thanks
  10. When I first got my Focus (same tyre size as your 1.8), it had Conti sport contact 3's on it. It tramlined under braking and all four had to be changed at about 24k as they were worn out which I thought was pretty poor for a "premium" tyre. I put 4 Hankook Ventus Prime 2s on it and it was quieter, didn't tramline and I think it did slightly better on fuel. The fronts have lasted just over 26k (although they weren't down to the wear markers - the inside edge were down to the cords which is maybe a track/bush issue). So, considering I purchased the car at 2k miles and drove it the same on the Contis and the Hankooks, it's obvious which wore better. I just put two Hankook Ventus Prime 3s on the front which I got for £89 each, fitted etc. So far, so good. Someone I worked with used to test tyres for OEMs and he first got me onto using Hankook otherwise I'd never have bothered.
  11. Hi, Thanks for the replies. I spoke to my mate again and he said it was "0.3 of the way towards 1 deg on the scale" (it's a proper Dunlop tracking gauge with mirrors that you'd find in many tyre places). He said that it was toeing in, too, but we can check again tonight. I had "0.3 of a degree" down as 0.3*60 = 18 minutes. Or, (the alt doesn't work for me) 0 deg 18' That puts it in line with the 0 deg 6' +/- 0 deg 15' in the book photo above but just outside of the 0 deg 6' +/- 0 deg 9' that Stef has quoted. If we check again and it's "0.3 of a degree toe in", I'm inclined to leave it as it is, I think, unless someone can suggest that it's better to try to set it towards the other end of the scale (i.e. [ 0 deg 6' ] - [ 0 deg 15' ] = [ - 0 deg 9' ] to see if that stops it chowing on the inner edges of the tyres.
  12. I dunno. My mate has got some Dunlop mirror tracking setup and I didn't get a straight answer. I think he'd had enough by the time we'd done the arms and I'll have to go back round to sort the brakes out this week. I'll take a closer look then. What should it be? +/-0.2 degrees?
  13. Put the Delphi arms on tonight - easier than I expected, to be honest. The old bushes were not destroyed but appeared to have started to break up with the passenger side rear being pretty weak and easy to manipulate. Would have put the pads and discs on had the right pads been supplied - Focus Mk1...when it was clearly stated that the car was made in 2010. Cheers GSF ;-) Checked the tracking and it was about 0.5 deg toe in. Information I have found suggests +/- 0.2 deg. Adverse tyre wear apparently occurs at -1.5 deg. Would anyone bother correcting this 0.5 deg?
  14. Wrt tracking, that's the conversation I had at the first check - I asked if the toe in was to allow for the front wheels to splay out when in motion and the guy said it was. I guess what it says in the autodata book is what it should be
  15. It's got halogens. I think it had the sports pack which is 17" wheels and (so I've been told) sports suspension which may have meant harder springs ?