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Everything posted by Albacore

  1. Boncio, did you implement this solution and does it work OK? Lance
  2. Sounds good, JW! Are you selling the pre-programmed arduinos? Lance
  3. Progress! Thanks JW, you are the Focus Guru! I did as you said and sure enough, Park Pilot returned front and back. I then temporarily enabled the reversing camera in Foccus (that program scares me when the Engine Malfunction message comes up on the instrument display!) and was pleased to see the front mini Park Pilot - no camera yet so no image, though it did say camera out of range or similar. Also some good news on the wiring front; I managed to trace the green Rosenberger connector to a connector C23 in the passenger footwell, from whence it goes to a 6 pin connector in the offside pillar next to the tailgate (wagon) - green (earth) and blue (signal) wires. It threw me somewhat because I was looking for a screened coax type cable, but it's not, except for near the FCDIM. For some reason the white +12v cable in the connector is not live, so that's the next thing to look at, along with deciding what camera to get. JW, I seem to recall you made a fancy arduino based gadget to power off the camera after a while or at a certain speed? Are there any easier solutions? I notice Park Pilot goes off when a certain speed is reached and wondered if that trigger signal could be picked up somewhere and used, with just a little relay driver circuit? Lance
  4. Thanks, but isn't Park Pilot set up in Foccus #59, Parking Assistance, which is independent of FCDIM? And I haven't changed #59, so not sure what I should change
  5. Well, I haven't got that far yet, but I made a start and swapped over my original FCDIM EM5T 18B955 DA to the new F1BT 18B955 DC It displays radio details BUT the Park Pilot is only showing the rear sensors on the display, even though I have front as well, so I've put the old one back for now. I had assumed that because I was swapping a 5" Navi display for another 5" Navi display I wouldn't need to change anything. Is there a setting I need to change or do I need to reset FCDIM ECU in Foccus, or just do the lock and wait? Thanks
  6. Good to find someone else on the same road - I was starting to feel lonely on here! I was hoping that one of the experts on here might have shed some light on my cable routing problem, but if not, I'll just cut the cable to the green connector and use the connector and a short length of the cable and connect it to a newly routed camera cable, either with a female phono or simply by soldering. Can you give me a brief outline of the coding you did to get things working? Did you use Forscan? Also it sounds like you have park pilot, which I do as well - I don't want to lose its display - does it continue to work with the camera display with the non-oem camera? Camera-wise, there seem to be some non-oem ones that do dynamic lines by some clever trickery.
  7. Slow progress! I've now got a display F1BT 18B955 DC, but not fitted it yet. When I look behind the current display, there is a green Rosenberger 4 pin connector in the loom, taped up and not connected. I've tried to trace where the cable goes, but it disappears into a loom the size of a small ash tree and despite my best efforts I'm not sure where it goes. I've looked behind the glove box and I'm pretty sure it doesn't go that way; I've had that centre console side panel off and can't see a termination for it there either. Does anyone know where it terminates? I appreciate it probably doesn't go as far as the rear of the car, but it would be nice to pick it up somewhere on the way.
  8. Thanks, but conversion to Sync 3 sounds like a rather ambitious and expensive project for me. Having done a bit more research, I've found that I have the older 5" screen with the beige connector (sod's law!) - EM5T 18B955 DA, so I either need to upgrade that or buy the Russian reversing camera module. The upgrade seems to be more cost effective. I've read that the screen I need is the F1BT 18B955 DC. I've seen an F1BT 18B955 DA for sale. Does anyone know if that will work?
  9. I have a 2014 Focus Estate with Sync 1 and the 5" colour monitor, park assist and GPS. It was first registered in March 2014, so I guess probably built in the latter half of 2013. I would like to fit a reversing camera, but I'm slightly confused about the options available, especially since many of the guides on here seem to have lost their pictures. I suppose the simplest is to fit a non-OEM camera (does the Estate need a special one to fit the tailgate release?) and separate monitor - are the ones that replace the mirror any good? Do they interfere with normal mirror usage? Or has anyone put a display above the mirror? Are the cameras and displays usually 4:3 or 16:9? Or what are the options to use the centre display and also integrate successfully with the park assist? Thanks, Lance
  10. Be extremely careful when removing the cluster! One of my pressfit lugs released OK but the one at the front end stayed engaged, so the cluster swivelled against the front edge, breaking off some of the red plastic! It sounds like a rookie mistake, but it happened all too easily. Hopefully it will glue back on successfully. It might be best to insert some kind of plastic pry bar behind the lugs to release them. Also the frontmost of the 2 plastic nuts on mine was well and truly seized and it is very inaccessible. I ended up partially removing the luggage cover rail (torx screw and a few plastic clips), which gives much better access. The whole thing is a 'mare compared to the Mk2 which was dead easy - the Mk3 is almost as bad as the nearside headlamp bulb on the Mk1! Lance
  11. I needed to change all the glow plugs on my Focus 1.6Tdci and looked round the net for some assistance. It turned out that there was an awful ot of talk around the subject but not much detail on the actual nitty gritty of doing the job - often the case! I managed to do it with minimum dismantling round the back of the engine, so here is my account of what I did for the benefit of others that may follow. At the back of your mind is the thought of the £1k ish bill you might end up with if you snap a glow plug or strip a thread, so proceed slowly and carefully! I started with a warm engine; don't know if this was necessary, but it seemed to make sense as it might ease threads and loosen carbon deposits. Get yourself a set of glow plugs. This is where I had my first problem, as I got NGKs whereas the originals were Berus. The 1.6Tdci connectors are push fit onto the Berus, but the NGKs have threads designed for a nut. (Standardisation!) The connector is a poor fit on the NGKs, especially when there's going to be a few amp whapping through it. I ended up wrapping a thin piece of tinned copper wire round the thread and soldering it on - time consuming and fiddly, so much better to get the Berus. For tools you will need a 1/4" socket set and a deep 8mm socket. Mine was a Teng which was perfect. Don't get an articulated one - it will make the job worse. A small step to stand on is useful if you are not too tall to give you better access to the back of the engine. Take off the wipers and 2 panels as detailed in many places, then you should be able to see no. 4, 3 and (just about) 2 glow plugs. No 1 is well hidden. Now get plenty of Plus gas or similar onto the glow plug threads. You will have to try and work out where no 1 is and get the tube down to it. Leave the Plus gas to work for as long as you can. Now start with no4 plug. Take the cap off (easy with this one) and put the socket and short extension on. I used the T-bar to turn it, as you get a better feel for what's happening than with the ratchet. This plug was tight! It also creaked a lot which I didn't like. Take it very slowly, 1/2 turn then back a bit. More Plus gas every so often. Give it a rest every so often. I also found it helpful to pull up with the bar a bit as I was unscrewing - might help to avoid a stripped thread. Eventually I got the plug out, pop the new one in with a smidge of copper ease on the threads. Torque to 8nM. No3 plug similar, also very tight. You may need to use pliers to get the lead off. No2 plug access much worse, but you can get to it if you remove the bolt (not the nut) holding the plug lead bracket using your 8mm deep socket. The bracket then swivels on the remaining stud and you can move it just enough to get to the plug. Not sure if I used the long or short extension on this one. Luckily this one and no1 came out much easier than no3 & 4. Now to the beast - no1. you have to feel around to find the connector and pull it off. I used long nosed pliers. Then after looking at the exact angle of dangle of the other plugs I was able to find a way into the plug with socket and long extension. The way in is between a couple of pipes with braided covers. Tape the socket onto the extension so you don't lose it - see pictures. Apologies for the incorrect orientation on these, which happened when I uploaded them; not got time to sort it now. Then put everything back together, copper ease on the wiper splines, torque to 15nM. Job's a good 'un!
  12. I read an old post on this forum about problems after removing the 41 pin connector C90 in the engine fusebox and I have just had a similar (highly stressful!) experience. I will detail my experience here as a cautionary tale for others. The car is a Focus 1.6Tdci mk2 and the problem started with an engine malfunction warning and limp mode. When I got the car home I put the OBD reader on and ran up Forscan. The malfunction was down to error P0380 - glow plug malfunction. This DTC comes back as soon as you try and clear it. Reading up on P0380, it seemed that the glow plugs themselves were the most likely cause. I did check the fuses in the engine fusebox, but they were OK. Then I had a look at a wiring diagram for the glow plugs and saw that the wire from each glow plug comes back to the engine fusebox where they are all commoned. So I got to thinking that by removing connector C90, I could then check each glow plug by checking its resistance to earth from the 4 relevant pins in C90. This would confirm that the glow plugs were faulty and also tell me which ones - maybe with the option of not changing those with diificult access if they were OK. So it seemed like a good plan and the resistance checks showed that ALL the plugs were faulty! I then put back connector C90 and my real troubles began. As soon as I tried to start the car I got Pats error 16 - fauly link from pats to ECM. My first thought was that I'd zapped the ECM, as I had omitted to disconnect the battery before removing C90. I checked all the fuses in both boxes and they were OK. This was getting serious! Visions of an expensive trip by recovery vehicle to the Ford dealer! Then I decided to have another look at C90. On close inspection, the socket pins in the connector looked like they weren't "closed up" enough to make good wiping contact with the male pins in the fusebox, so I took each pin out of the connector in turn and with a tiny screwdriver, bent the wiping contact outwards. Still no joy! Looking at the connector when inserted, it had clicked into place but the insertion did not seem very positive - too much play. Then just on a hunch I decided to remove the red plastic insert that sits in the bottom of the connector. I don't think it does much other than aid insertion and keep the male pins straight. I then reinserted the connector and straight away the insertion was positive and without play and sure enough the car was back up and running. Phew! So my advice to all is to remove this connector at your peril!