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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.


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About m1tch

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  1. Timing belt advice 2008 24k

    Also get any aux belts done at the same time - as mentioned, rubber parts perish over time which is why there is a mileage AND time requirement on the belts.
  2. Thanks for that, will look into it - I think I have Forscan on my phone using a Bluetooth OBD socket - looks like the laptop version unlocks additional features over the phone app.
  3. Tdci Throttle Body - Confused

    Might also be easier to find a complete intake manifold - some include this part which you can easily remove as the seller probably doesn't know its a separate part.
  4. Hi all, I have a mk6 56 plate Fiesta 1.4 TDCi, although I have the Torque pro app for a number of reasons such as fault codes as well as some supported live data (such as boost, fuel rail pressure etc) I don't have anything that I can read off things such as fuel injector trims or coding of injectors. Just wondering what the main 'go to' bit of software is for our car - basically looking for a VAGCOM equivalent. Thanks in advance!
  5. How low do you go before refuelling?

    I usually refill when the tank is between 1/4 and empty, usually fill up around 30 litres in my mk6 1.4 TDCi - don't want to run it too low so it doesn't pull in muck from the bottom of the tank etc.
  6. Yeah I found that this made the most noticeable improvement in performance, its due to the butterfly valve not really sitting flat in the intake when open so a fair restriction to the airflow - you might get a check engine light for a P0103 for high airflow through the MAF, worth getting a cheap OBD2 scanner if you haven't already to reset any codes. My engine has just ticked over 144k miles without issue - still running well but might look to do a leak off test on the injectors soon.
  7. Hi all, I have a mk6 with the 1.4 TDCi engine, its currently on only 144k miles - have driven it for around 50k miles so far with various mix of driving in terms of motorway/town/A roads etc and have been trying a few different intake setups on the engine to improve its performance. ECUs usually self adjust the fuel trims and can usually fuel to a slightly different part of the ECU map when additional airflow is going through the engine so I just wanted to see if there were a few simple changes I could do to help out this engine without remapping. I have tried various setups but here are the main parts I have tested: EGR blanking Intake snorkel to air box Airbox vs cone filter Doser valve The car currently has an EGR blanking plate fitted (although this might be reversed due to new MOT laws coming up), but after getting a spare intake for testing which has had the EGR plugged in for all its life the sludge that builds up in the intake is horrific! Anyway, back to some testing, below are a few setups from 'worst' to 'best' - there are some trade off which are noted: Stock airbox with snorkel, Doser valve standard and EGR blanked - car felt spongy on the throttle and felt fairly slow, took this as a baseline Stock airbox, snorkel removed, Doser valve standard and EGR blanked - improvement in some throttle response, slight increase in induction noise especially when letting off the throttle Stock airbox, snokel removed, Doser valve unplugged and EGR blanked - quite a noticeable improvement in throttle response, engine is still fairly quiet, no real gain in power but nicer to drive Modded airbox (base cut away). doser valve unplugged and EGR blanked - improvement in performance due to additional airflow, issue being is that the air filter now gets dirtier quicker so not recommended Stock airbox, snorkel removed, Doser valve butterfly removed and EGR blanked - a noticeable improvement in throttle response with a slight bump in power by simply removing the butterfly valve from the doser valve setup (2 screws) - the butterfly is spring loaded so is open when unplugged but doesn't sit flat giving a fair restriction to airflow. The check engine light might come on at some point due to higher airflow (much like the cone filter) but the engine is fairly quiet on the motorway Cone filter (3" pipework), doser valve unplugged and EGR blanked - considerable improvement in throttle response and power, I found that the all the air the engine gets through the stock airbox has to go through a thin slot then around a bend, a cone filter does improve performance. The cons for this setup is that engine noise on the motorway is increased, the check engine light might come on due to high airflow though the MAF and the injectors are slightly noisier due to the adjustment of the fuel trims to keep up with the airflow. Cone filter (3" pipework) doser valve butterfly removed and EGR blanked - this is the setup for the best throttle response and power, no restriction in air for the engine (MAF is a tiny 60mm tube), no restriction going through the doser valve either. This setup does increase both power and throttle response as the ECU does adjust fueling for the additional airflow, the downside to this is that you might get a check engine light due to high airflow detected, engine noise is increased on the motorway, the injectors are also slightly nosier especially at slightly higher RPMs owing to the fuel trim adjustments etc. My recommendations for anyone who feels that their 1.4 TDCi is slow but don't want to get too involved is: Remove the snorkel from the stock airbox Unplug the doser valve For those who want a bit more of an improvement but don't want an induction kit I would suggest to: Remove the snorkel from the stock airbox Remove the butterfly from the doser valve - its amazing how much difference just this makes Its worth noting that although the car was fitted with an induction kit, because the engine is a diesel and therefore has no vacuum you don't get the usual 'induction roar' - more of a constant noise as that's due to the turbo pulling in the air under load. Its also worth noting that some models of 1.4 TDCi engines don't actually have a doser valve in the intake, so far for me, simply unplugging the doser valve hasn't caused any check engine lights to come on - whereas if you remove the butterfly there will be - just shows how much restriction that butterfly valve has in terms of airflow! I would also suggest anyone to start with a full oil and filter change (including the fuel filter) and run some 'diesel purge' neat through the injectors (connect up the can to the feed lines to and from the pump into the can). For me I am currently running with the stock airbox, no snorkel with the doser valve unplugged, this has mean that the ECU has readjusted fueling so that the engine is quieter and no check engine light has come on in a while - throttle response and power isn't as good as having the cone filter and no butterfly but less to worry about. Also worth noting that its worth resetting the ECU fuel trims - its fuse 16 (3A) behind the glove box, relearn procedure after its pulled/reset is to get the car up to operating temp and then hold it at high idle for around 2 minutes. I have however found that the fuel trims do self adjust as I have noticed that they are much quieter now I have put the doser butterfly back in (which means less airflow etc).
  8. Removing centre trim - Mk6

    I can see that part of the trim is held in with screws though?
  9. Hi all, I am wanting to remove the centre plastic trim that goes around the radio/heater controls/hazard warning light/coin holder/heated screen buttons etc, its currently in a gray but looking to paint it up gloss black or wrap it etc. I can see when removing the trim from around the radio (I swapping mine out for a double DIN) that there are 2 screws, one each side there, does the rest simply pull out or do I need to remove other parts?
  10. Mk6 seat upgrade

    Thanks for that, I would only want to go part leather of cloth, had a car with full leather before which was ok due to the aircon and heated seats but really don't see the appeal. Good to know that the Zetec S has the same seats but without the badge - mines a 1.4 TDCi so not exactly an ST! How comfortable are you finding them?
  11. Mk6 seat upgrade

    Hi all, My mk6 1.4tdci Fiesta is still happily running and has just passed 143k miles, although the stock seats are ok, I am looking at changing them for something slightly more comfortable as this is my daily drive. Can anyone confirm if the ST seats are a direct bolt in etc? Or indeed if there are any other options out there, basically looking for something slightly more supportive - mainly lumber adjust-ability etc.
  12. Feel Your 1.4 Tdci Is Slow? Solution

    Look into the EGR blocking kits so you don't get muck chucked into your intake - also with regards to the injector cleaners, run the cleaner through neat by unplugging from the fuel filter, I use diesel purge on mine.
  13. Might just need the injectors to be cleaned out a bit - when did you change the fuel filter etc?
  14. Long time since I have updated this tread, the car is currently on 137k miles, have fitted new springs and dampers all round, car is still good although I think 1 of the injectors have started to fail so I have a replacement and will look to fit that this weekend - will check the fuel feed connections first though as its only at higher RPMs under load so might be a fuel flow issue.
  15. Feel Your 1.4 Tdci Is Slow? Solution

    The intake for the airbox goes under the fuel filter - basically the air box opening is now drawing air from under the fuel filter/back of the engine rather than next to the exhaust.