Jonro2009

True Ford Enthusiast
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Jonro2009 last won the day on February 15 2019

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About Jonro2009

  • Rank
    Don’t slam the door, it’s not a Ford

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Jon
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus ST Line
  • Ford Year
    2017
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Inverness-shire
  • Interests
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Modification
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. You may find they require to be connected to sensors on the suspension to level them, they should also have washers - although you would get away without them. Have you looked at Gala motors, they are a ford scrapyard, last week they had a 2020 fiesta in that had flood damage so all the parts where available apart from the carpets. You might get lucky and find a 2020 focus with rear damage etc. You will find a huge debate over the legalities of LED lamps and it depends who you speak to. If you have projector units then you would have no issues with MOT at all, and as the MOT isn't due for over 2years it wouldn't be a worry. If you have reflector units then it's a straight no from the off. I'm surprised to hear you say they are expensive for what they are worth, what do you mean? You can get a decent set for less than £50 (£29.99 for nighteye ones). Do you find the standard halogen ones poor or is it the colour you don't like? There are good aftermarket halogen lamps available - Phillips Xtreme Vision and Osram Nightbreaker range. Both 55w but emit a light closer to the colour of LED
  2. I should have edited it lol. It's not malware @Ennvoqation I promise lol
  3. As above, you need a micro2 fuse piggy back. If you contact nextbase then they will actually send you one. Alternatively this is the one you need and for the sake of £2 it will be quicker. I've bought from here before, this exact one for my focus in fact https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/MICRO-2-PIGGY-BACK-BLADE-FUSE-HOLDER-TAP-12V-MICRO2-AUTOBEAM-/254447570410?ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-53481-19255-0%2F1%3Fff3%3D4%26pub%3D5574631662%26toolid%3D10001%26campid%3D5338624526%26customid%3D44fb2ea98bcf87b0239107b5d1931873%26mpre%3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2FMICRO-2-PIGGY-BACK-BLADE-FUSE-HOLDER-TAP-12V-MICRO2-AUTOBEAM-%2F254447570410%26srcrot%3D710-53481-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D2597334831584%26rvr_ts%3D81df40371740ada1f234c932ffe2ebc1&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true
  4. We have this one... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TD9GMDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6LltFb3V7BVA2 A little more than you want to pay but it's a well known brand. A lot of them perish whilst in storage, this one has been fine. We store ours in a vacuum bag with a couple of those silca packs to trap any moisture. I'm sure we got ours from Argos, but you can also get them in B&M. I also found this one on Amazon with good reviews, the only thing I don't like about eBay is that you don't get to read any product reviews https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00VQH13DY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CJltFb3E78H3J
  5. You can wire it directly to a switched live fuse using a piggyback. I don't know the wiring on the rear lights so to do that with you I'd need you to have a multimeter. The earth can go to any nut on the chassis, there will be one very near the fuse box
  6. Isn't there a fuse box in the rear of the Smax?
  7. U0257 relates to the FCDIM so it could potentially be a related issue, the reverse camera is linked to it in a 'distant cousin' type of way. It's certainly is be getting Ford to look at it under warranty.
  8. You can get a 54pin APIM adapter harness with RCA flylead that bridges the existing harness and the back of the Sync3 unit. You would then plug the camera directly into that and take a power feed from the reverse lamp. You would need to enable the rear camera service in the APIM for it to work, I'm not sure what software works on the fiesta. I've used Forscan on the focus and Mondeo.
  9. Sounds like a dodgy connection to the LIN. I would go back to Ford, it's not operating correctly. Did you see the lines before, on your first camera? If not then the fault lies with LIN BUS and not the camera.
  10. Certainly did, Sync3
  11. If reliability or vehicle history is stopping you then I wouldn't worry to much about it, if the service costs are putting you off (as they have done to me) then fair enough. Enjoy whatever car you go for in the end.
  12. I had a 2017 1.5tdci with the powershift box and paddles. It's a dual clutch box which preselects the next gear so if you 'surprise' it and it's preselected the wrong gear then it can be a little clunky compared to a normal torque converter box. Clutch 1 controls 1st, 3rd and 5th gear. While clutch 2 controls 2nd, 4th and 6th (and R) The earlier powershift boxes were prone to problems but the later versions were a lot more reliable. I never had an issue with mine at all. I owned it until I hit 34k miles and got rid because of the high service costs. The box requires a service every 3yrs or 36k miles whichever is soonest. If it hasn't had that done or there is no evidence then walk away - it's an absolute must to service these on time. The earlier models used the 6DCT250 Ford Powershift—6-speed dual clutch transmission with a dry clutch these were the boxes to avoid. The 2017 should have a 6DCT450 Ford Powershift with a wet clutch - more reliable and more efficient than previous. I now drive an A Class and do miss the powershift box a little.
  13. Any brand will do but some last longer than others. The poundshop ones are rubbish, JCB are also cr4p. I always go for Panasonic myself.