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Tdci-Peter last won the day on January 11 2020

Tdci-Peter had the most liked content!


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  • Ford Model
    1.8 TDCI Mk2 Focus
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  • UK/Ireland Location
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    General Automotive
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. If I understand this correctly: The original ECU seemed to fail intermittently, fine sometimes & useless at other times. The replacement ECU with the cloned software never worked well enough to even drive the car. The replacement ECU, after a visit to a Ford dealer workshop where it had proper Ford software loaded into it, seems to be working ok. I am not entirely surprised that an amateur attempt to copy software did not work, it is a very complex mass of code and data. So hopefully the fault was in the old ECU, and the new one will fix it. The CAN bus has a big weakness. It is multi-drop. This means all modules on one bus are directly connected to one physical pair of wires. Short circuit or low impedance type problems on any one module can bring the whole bus down, and as this bus is vital for diagnostics, it is impossible to identify the location of the problem without disconnecting all modules to isolate the problem. With a point to point bus like USB, the bus should always work up to the faulty node, making diagnosis possible. Point to point buses can also run much faster than multi-drop. It was a bit of a mistake standardising on CAN for automotive use!
  2. I am 99% sure it will need coding. In many cases the immobiliser keys are coded into the IC (Instrument Cluster). On cars around that age, Forscan can usually re-programme the immobiliser (PATS), but it is not a really easy procedure. See: https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=839
  3. I would hazard a guess, from Moe's post on Feb 4th above, that the audio unit was a prime suspect. Moe has not visited this site since February. There must be hundreds of posts about batteries going flat on this site, I have seen quite a few. Far fewer come to any conclusion, sadly. Of those that do find an answer, not many have the same answer. Audio units do feature high in the problem list though. To test a battery & charging system properly needs expensive equipment & experience. But there are some quick checks (outlined in the post above) that can tell you if a full test is needed. All that is needed is a basic, cheap multimeter. Simply removing fuses to check if some part is causing a current draw can cause more confusion than help. A lot of equipment has more than one supply, and many items are inter-connected. But if the car owners manual is used to find fuses that supply unswitched (permanent) battery power to items like radios & accessories, it can sometimes help. If the manual is lost, sites on the internet can usually supply them. It can take time and perseverance to track these faults down, but if the alternative is to scrap or sell for peanuts, a decent working car in all other ways, then it must be worth it!
  4. On the Focus, the a/c pipes block access to the servo & master cylinder, making diy work on these rather impractical (unless the a/c is already empty!). I suspect this is true of many cars. So eliminating brake problems at the wheels first is a good idea even if they are not prime suspect. A servo system in good condition should be able to give 2 or 3 full brake applications with a recently stopped engine. And there should be a distinct change in pedal feel when it does run out of vacuum. From the normal (engine running) slightly yielding feel to solid. Also it should be able to operate after a few minutes from stopping. Leaks through the diaphragm may be testable by holding light pressure on the pedal, moving it very slightly at intervals, and seeing how long it takes to go hard with engine recently stopped. While the footbrake is off, vacuum is applied to both sides of the diaphragm. When the brake is applied, one side of the servo is first isolated from the vacuum inlet (actually an air outlet!), then air is allowed in to that side to create the pressure over the diaphragm to assist the brake pressure. This air going out to vacuum pump and in from atmosphere is regulated by a balancing valve that controls the hydraulic pressure to a set multiple of the pedal force. So with engine off and steady brake pressure applied, a diaphragm leak will rapidly remove the vacuum from the other side not being controlled, so losing servo assistance. Listening for hisses from the vent port (hidden on the back of the servo somewhere) can also give clues, but usually needs 2 people who both know what they are doing. A rare luxury for me, I don't often have even one person who really knows what he is doing on many of the jobs I try for the first time!
  5. I am with Isetta in suspecting a servo / vacuum problem. Pumping the pedal with engine off will remove(*) any vacuum in the servo, and the brakes will fell very hard on the pedal, but will not be applying much pressure at the disks & drums. Start the engine and the pedal will drop as soon as vacuum builds up, it will also feel quite a lot more spongy. This does not necessarily mean there is air in it, there is flexibility in the whole system: Flexi-hoses, brake pad compression, and particularly with disk calipers, there is a surprisingly large amount of flex in the caliper itself. The much greater hydraulic pressure you get with the servo will show up this flexibility, while it will feel solid with the pathetic pressure you can get manually. If the pedal goes hard halfway down its travel, then most likely it has run out of vacuum, and the servo is not providing any further assistance. It is possible there is a problem with one axle, but if so, I would suspect the front, as that provides the majority of the braking. I believe there is a safety point in the pedal travel where the pressure to each axle becomes separate. This means that a pipe burst or sudden major brake failure will not result in all 4 brakes being lost, only one axle. But if the braking past this point feels really feeble, I think the problem must either be in the front axle, or in the servo / master cylinder. I had something like this once. Approaching a roundabout at the end of a dual carriageway, while braking there was a loud bang, and the pedal shot right down. I am sure there was still some braking, as I had quite a bit of speed to lose, now rather urgently! I did manage to release the pedal after a few seconds, and re-apply, and got back to more normal braking. And just about slowed enough, but it was very scary. After the roundabout, I pulled over, and tested the brakes, they seemed fine, so I continued the journey home very cautiously, after I had stopped shaking! When I inspected it, one back disk pad was worn rather thin, and another was missing entirely! The pad had detached from the backing plate, and was thin enough to shoot out through the narrow gap between caliper / bracket and the disk. That was the bang I heard, and the caliper piston movement needed then allowed the pedal right down. This was on my previous car, a Vauxhall with horrible rear brake set-up: tiny drum handbrake inside a rear disk, and a hydraulic union had to be disconnected to properly inspect or change the rear pads. Yuk. My Focus is easy to maintain, and brakes are fully serviced every year now! * Note: Yes I know that, pedantically, a vacuum is nothing and can not be removed. But mathematically, negative and relative quantities as just as valid as absolute ones, so as long as it is known and accepted that a "servo vacuum" is where part of the normal atmospheric air has been removed, the term vacuum can be used as if it were a real, positive thing!
  6. I have never tried ELMConfig myself ("What are you, Man or Mouse?", "Errr, Squeak, squeak, where's the cheese"), so I haven't verified this, but there is a suggestion it is possible:
  7. It almost has to be a fault on the IC (Instrument Cluster) pcb. I guess it is the same as the Focus & other cars, which use tiny stepper motors to drive the needles, all controlled from a big micro-processor. This chip gets most of its info, including speed, rpm & engine temperature, from other modules over the CAN bus. So if all other functions are fine, the CAN bus and the other modules must be ok. If it is just that gauge, then it would limit the problem to the connections between the micro-processor & the stepper motor and the motor itself. On many Ford cars there is a gauge sweep test you can do by holding in the mileage reset button while turning on the ignition. This would verify if it was a local fault only affecting the speedo.
  8. Having the 2 electric window option makes it a bit more likely the fault is in the BCM. The 4 electric windows version has electronic modules in each door that accept the door switches for locking. windows, mirrors etc, and control the locking motors. These door modules get commands over a CAN bus from the BCM for central locking etc. The 2 electric windows version has minimal electronics in the doors, all the switches & motors are directly controlled by the BCM. There could still be a problem with a switch in the door, or a wire or connector between the switches & the BCM, but it seems sensible to start with the BCM. You may have to be prepared to dismantle the BCM a bit to remove the covers and have a good look at the pcb. I have not done this myself, I tend not to mess with things that seem to be working! I did have to dismantle my IC, which was a bit daunting. Though as I was almost certain it was broken, I had little to lose! I suspect there are YouTubes & stuff about the BCM.
  9. I just checked my (UK) owners manual. On normal (single) locking it says "On vehicles without double locking, the indicators will flash twice". On double locking it says the "indicators will flash twice". So it should depend on whether the car has the double locking facility (which prevents it being unlocked manually from the inside, so the old trick of wire (or arm) in through a part open window does not work.) But outside the UK things may vary. The programming option I was thinking of is to do with un-locking, so is probably not relevant. From your symptoms given, I do not really suspect the IC (Instrument cluster), it has almost nothing to do with locking & remote control. It does get an ignition on signal from the BCM, and if that was playing up, it could make the gauges go a bit odd. But without proper diagnostics, nothing can be entirely ruled out. The BCM is easier to get to than door modules, (Does the car have 4 electric windows, or just front electric & back manual? It does have a big effect on the way the locking works.) So looking at that first seems a good idea. Forscan is a comprehensive and inexpensive diagnostic system that might well help to narrow it down a bit. There is also a test procedure for the BCM that can help check most of its input & output circuits: "Press and hold in the rear demister button while turning ignition to the run position, and you will get a tone. Once activated the test mode will sound a tone when any switch or lever is triggered. Open each door in turn, bonnet, boot, wiper, indicators, heater & a/c controls etc and a tone will sound/hazard lights will flash which will make it easier to pin down any faults."
  10. Those two items sound normal. LCD stays lit for several minutes after leaving the car. If it goes out after 30 mins or so, it is fine. Indicators do not blink on standard locking, they double blink on double locking (2nd press of the lock button). (I half recall there may be a way to set it for blink on lock, but default is no blink). If it is only one door that is misbehaving, then it is likely to be a problem in that door latch. If all doors do it together, it could be a problem in the driver's door latch or module, as that controls all of them. But as Unofix says, it is more likely to be a problem with water getting in the BCM (passenger fusebox).
  11. Is it the camshaft sensor? If so, it will certainly go direct to the PCM. Pic of cylinder head, sensor marked 12K073. Pic from: https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/54/no/13/1549/15351/66617/ Later cars have a glowplug module that can monitor the current in each plug, but models brought out before about 2010 did not usually have this, and the 4 wires should all go to the glowplug fuse & relay in the fusebox. I have found no reference to any glowplug module for the 2001-2008 model Fiesta. Glowplug currents can be 15A per plug, up to 60A total, so heavy cable is needed. 2.5mm^2 for a single plug, 6mm^2 for a combined wire seems to be typical.
  12. The software in these cars, and in fact just about all modern software, never ceases to make me confused and befuddled! Without calibration factors to enter, I assume the software must be self-adjusting to compensate for differences. A reset will, I suppose, put it back to a nominal state, which will not be ideal, but should work. Then if the whole system is behaving as the software writers assumed, the adjustments will slowly bring it to the more ideal state. Thus on an older car, which behaves differently to a new one, the adjustments may take longer, and may sometimes fail to operate properly. The assumptions will be based on new cars. So how long it takes, and whether it works at all, will depend on the state of the whole engine, and how it is driven in the 1st 100 or so miles after the reset. The ECU can only measure injector performance indirectly. Knock sensors may help, by recording both sharpness and timing of the actual ignition, but other measurements like fuel consumption (injector pulse width needed for certain conditions) may well be used. But whatever is used, steady driving conditions for a few minutes at a time at a variety of different speeds & powers will help. It can not adapt while accelerating through the gears, for example. Give it a bit longer, and see if a wiring related problem returns. And try to keep an eye on those DTCs. They can appear even with no EML on, and if they continue, it would suggest some underlying cable problem that is upsetting the system.
  13. As far as I know, there are no calibration codes to enter with the VDO type injectors. See if Forscan actually offers the option, it is not available on the Focus. The learned values reset is the only procedure I am aware of. Stranded cable can corrode inside the insulation, especially if water has got in. There may be no sign of it on the outside, and a normal multimeter continuity test may not detect it, the cable resistance just rises a bit, and becomes variable. You would have to use a low resistance tester to detect a fault like this. A couple of ohms could be enough to slow down the signals enough to make a detectable difference to the injections. Piezo crystals are capacitors that have to be charged to quite a high voltage very quickly, and this requires a substantial current surge, despite the fact that they measure high impedance or open circuit to a simple DC resistance test. I was a bit confused about the airbag! My spelling is absdoerlutely aewrful too, but this site has an excellent editing facility, which I make a Lot of use of! Like Just now.
  14. I doubt if there is any connector between the injector and the ECU. I believe the ECU is under the wing behind the NSF wheel arch liner on the 2008 Mondeo, the same as the Focus. That stacks up with what you saw. On the Focus there is a big multi-plug right at the top of the engine, behind the cam cover, which does not seem to appear on the circuit schematics. I am not sure if the Mondeo has this, and I guess you have checked it if it is there. I don't know for sure if the injector wires go through this anyway, as I have no pin-out of it. The piezo injector signals are high speed, high voltage (70v typ) high current (7A quoted) signals, so they will be kept as direct as possible. So the only place to check them is at the ECU connector, I can get a pin-out for the Focus ECU, if the Mondeo has a related Siemens / Continental ECU then it may be similar. They should be twisted wire pairs if that is any help. And a heavier gauge than the CAN-Bus, which is also a twisted pair. ECU connectors are usually secured or protected by a headless security bolt that has to be drilled or ground out, just to add to the problems!
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