Tdci-Peter

True Ford Enthusiast
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Tdci-Peter last won the day on January 15

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About Tdci-Peter

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Peter
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    1.8 TDCI Mk2 Focus
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Dorset
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. Tdci-Peter

    Flashing PATS light, non starter.

    It is worth checking that flash code again, maybe. I interpret it as code 22. I think the pause between the two digits is slightly shorter than the pause between the repeated pairs, but the gap between the flashes of a single digit are much shorter than either of those pauses. But code 22 does not come up on Google as a valid Focus code. I have references to "Invalid ROM code" which seems to be an ECU problem, and maybe a duff transponder ring, but nothing at all definite for a Focus. Forscan might help, when I connected on my Mk2 Focus with PATS problems, it gave a shed load of communication and invalid signal errors. But I had flash code 16 and it was the classic bad soldering on the connector problem. I also needed it to clear a rather permanent Theft DTC that a standard code reader would not clear. From the way it came & went to start with, this problem does look a bit like a bad connection problem. I would want to look at the connections between the main connector on the IC and the IC pcb with a magnifying glass, especially the ones to the transponder ring. You would have to remove the needles and open up the IC to see this. I have a guide to this, and there are YouTubes. Erasing & re-programming keys is a slightly dangerous option. If there is a fault with the ring, or if you get any connection problems via the ELM, then you will add to the problem. I would investigate other things first, and make sure that your computer & connection is reliable before re-programming PATS. It is recommended that you attempt to add any key you want to use prior to erasing keys, this tests that the key is valid and the transponder ring is working, without erasing all keys. It is in the Forscan page about PATS. IC connector partial pin-out below. The transponder +12 (C391 pin 1) comes from Fuse F67 (F114 in later fuse boxes) in the passenger fuse box, which also supplies the IC at pin 4. The full schematic for a Mk2 Focus is here, and the IC is on page 85. Guide to IC repair: https://www.fordownersclub.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=40491
  2. Tdci-Peter

    Bleeding car

    If that amount is just for the brake pipes, I think I would investigate the ABS first. I wonder if the MoT did the brake efficiency test? Any problems there might show a blocked pipe or jammed piston. Just possibly that could affect the ABS, though most ABS light failures are wheel sensors, wiring or in the ABS unit. I also can not see any link between external corrosion and ABS, and surely any leaks would be easily visible, the oil does not evaporate at all quickly. If the problem is in the ABS unit, then really the only hope is to get a used one, a new or fully recon one would be expensive for the car, with the pipes etc, sadly. Bleeding an ABS unit takes quite a bit of effort, so would be best done before the brake pipe repair so the system can all be bled in one. Forscan only costs about £17 (for the ELM327 adapter) if you have a Windows laptop or similar. It should be able to read codes from the ABS unit, which would be a start, at least.
  3. Tdci-Peter

    Mondeo MK4 Heating issue / coolant loss

    Coolant leaks are quite common. There are so many places it can leak, but almost all will leave some trace or sign. It is a matter of going through every possibility. Hoses first, I had one of the small vent hoses burst near the expansion tank recently. There are lots of water hoses, but leaks usually will be visible. Wrapping some cloth round a suspect area might help detect small leaks. Then expansion tank. I also had this about 4 years ago, and detected it by placing cardboard under the tank. It got wet & smelt of anti-freeze. Heater matrix will always give a smell of anti-freeze in the cabin. Main radiator is harder, but visible deposits on the radiator is the usual sign. EGR cooler and Head gasket will both give white smoke in the exhaust when idling after a run long enough to get to full temperature. A faint smell of anti-freeze in the exhaust should also be detectable. Oil cooler will cause grey emulsion in the engine, especially inside the crankcase vent hoses. I am not sure what your engine type is, this thread relates to the 1.8TDCI, but most items will be common to other engines. Head gasket leaks do not seem common on this engine, unless maybe wrong or no anti-freeze was used, allowing corrosion.
  4. Tdci-Peter

    Battery Drain Problem

    If the battery is more than about 7 years old, then it may be worth having it replaced anyway. But then you would have to be more careful about battery drain. Going flat shortens a battery's life, it would be a shame to do that to a nice new one! If you have a local garage you use for servicing, and that seems trustworthy, I would go there first. If they can't do it, they may be able to recommend a reliable auto electrician or other technician. It has to be by recommendation really. With electrical testing, so often someone buys a complex bit of kit, and sets up as an "expert", when in reality they know rather little, apart from pressing the start button on their bit of kit. Halfords staff usually fall into that category, and really only want to sell you a new battery. As the car starts ok, and Halfords have claimed they have detected a current draw, I suspect the battery is ok, but it does need to be eliminated. Reserve capacity and internal leakage take longer to detect than starting current capability. A few hours with a known load (some lights left on) can test capacity, but at least 24 hours with no load (so not connected to the car if a drain is suspected) would be needed to even partly test for internal leakage. But if a parasitic draw is seen, then it may need someone with experience and knowledge of modern electronic cars to isolate the fault. But unplugging the radio, and any bluetooth, sat nav or similar electronic devices is a good starting point.
  5. From Haynes, front disk min thickness is 23mm, and rear disk is 9mm. Pad thickness min is 1.5mm (f & r). I would not trust a vague report like that from a biased source. Stripping the brakes down for a good look is the only real way. The MoT will also look for corrosion on the disks that appreciably reduces the usable area, or extends across most of the braking zone. Rusty disks is, in my experience, a more common fail than thickness. Usually on the inside surface that is not easy to see until removed. But most MoT inspectors have x-ray vision for this sort of thing (or good lights & mirrors!). If the pads or disks are near the limit, it may be better to change them now rather than wait for Winter. But that Halfrauds report tells you nothing of any use.
  6. Tdci-Peter

    Battery Drain Problem

    It can be a real pig locating the cause of battery drain these days. The problem is so many bits are inter-connected by the CAN busses. A typical problem is that a radio or or other after-market equipment is not entirely shutting down. But the drain is not in that equipment. Instead it is connected to a CAN bus, and is keeping some other bit of the car awake, often the ECU. And the ECU does consume quite a lot of power. One symptom is the backlight on the dash LCD stays on all the time, or for much too long. It usually shuts off after less than 30 minutes. This LCD, or the dash itself, do not consume much power, not enough to flatten a 40 to 80 AH battery in a week if the battery is in good nick, but are an indicator of unwanted CAN bus activity. Often the only answer is to disconnect entirely (not just remove fuses) all non-essential equipment, and either do a long term drain test measuring the drop in battery voltage, or measure the current drawn from the battery with a meter. This is not dead easy, as high current spikes due to door locking & unlocking (for instance) can blow fuses on multimeters connected on a low enough current range to measure long term drain. But it can be done. The Ford radio socket has CAN bus connections in it. As a guide, over a week it takes about 0.2A (200mA) to flatten a fully charged 40AH battery, or a 80AH battery that is a bit old and has about 50% capacity remaining. (168 hours times 0.2A = 33.6AH). I frequently leave my car standing for 6 days, and it has never lost charge by that, so battery drain is not normal or inevitable. But if you use a car often, it can mask a dodgy battery that can still start a car, but has high internal leakage or greatly reduced reserve capacity. So a thorough battery test (avoid Halfords!) is a good idea. Internal leakage can not be tested by a quick test with some fancy gizmo, also avoid anyone who claims it can!
  7. Tdci-Peter

    How does this happen??

    The filter has caught it, in effect. The housing is on the inlet side, so the sandy stuff will only get into the pump & injectors if it can get through the filter. Aluminium is only likely to corrode like that if water is getting in to the system. Unfortunately many filling stations do get some water into their tanks, so it is possible to buy some water with your fuel. Water and Diesel give micro-biological growth (fungus & bacteria), that can produce acids that corrode aluminium. (Google Microbiological Induced Corrosion.) Frequent filter changes, or at least filter drainings to remove any water (which is heavier than diesel so sits at the bottom of the housing), can reduce the problem. If there was a defect in the filter element, or if there is any aluminium on the outlet side of the filter, then that could explain the failure of 4 injectors. It looks like that housing was not cleaned out for a long time. That is a lot of corrosion residue.
  8. Tdci-Peter

    fuel filter

    Like Ian says, just the one in the engine bay. With correct priming, it is easy to get the car going again. Without, it is almost impossible! First time I did it, I had no idea, and it took me two days to re-start. Second time it took under 2 minutes to re-start. You can either pump fuel through from before the filter, or suck it through from after the fuel pump. Either way avoids getting dirt into the critical pipe from filter to pump. Even microscopic dirt particles can damage the fuel pump or injectors. Also, despite some reports on the 'net, never interfere with any of the high pressure (metal) fuel pipes, unless you absolutely need to remove an injector or similar. There is no need, the high pressure side is self priming, and the dangers of leaks or dirt into injectors are massive. Have a look at:
  9. Tdci-Peter

    Mk6 1.4 TDCI Won't Start when warm

    +1 for being impressed with the testing and diagnostics. Tests like that are often not as easy as they sound on a car, with poor or awkward access. The ECU will not energise the injectors until a certain rpm & fuel rail pressure is reached, on my car is seems to be about 200rpm & 200Bar (3000PSI), but it looks like the rail pressure is lower on that 1.4, if it starts at 1500PSI. Or just possibly there is a calibration error, which could be temperature dependant, in the fuel rail sensor. But that would not explain why cooling the injector allowed it to get up to pressure and start. A good diagnostic system like Forscan can record fuel rail pressure, RPM and other stuff during a start, even during a normal rapid start. I have posted pictures of start-up logs from my car. It can also check rail pressure & boost pressure while driving, to get readings which can not be obtained on the driveway. Measuring the leak back flow from the injectors might help. This is relatively easy. While an injector is open there is a continuous flow into the leak off outlet, from the pilot stage of the injector. If the pilot stage is stuck open or leaking, then there will be a leak-off flow even with the injector not plugged in to the loom, while cranking. If the main stage is leaking into the cylinder, then I would expect it to affect performance, raising idle, making the engine uneven at low power, making fuel consumption worse, and making smoke. A lot of places that offer to test and repair this complex stuff are not very good. It needs the right equipment, experience, care and knowledge to work on these critical parts. Sometimes a used injector from a known good car may be a better bet. If the 1.4 is like the 1.8 (I think it shares similar Siemens equipment), then it is not too fussy about replacing injectors, the ECU will self adjust.
  10. Tdci-Peter

    Egr wiring tests

    I had a look at quick look at parts lists for the S-Max & Focus, and although the EGR, Injectors and fuel pump are all common, the ECU has a different number. So there may be some detail differences. From one photo, it looked like it was a completely different unit, but a wider search shows them both to be the Siemens / VDO part, so the difference should not be great. I can be 99%+ sure of the position feedback readings: Vref (2) is +5v steady, running or just Ign on. (I would expect it to be pretty close, say 4.8v to 5.2v). Vgrd (6) is 0v steady, running or just Ign on. (again pretty close, +/- 0.2v from battery negative). Vout (4) is typ 0.6v steady, engine off, Ign on. This will vary rather more, say 0.4v to 0.8v, it depends on just where the valve closed point is, and may change a bit within that range each time the valve moves and then returns to rest. But it should be a steady reading while the valve remains closed. Vout will be much more variable once idling. Typ 1.5v to 3.5v I would say. The valve is almost constantly moving to try to maintain the desired flow rate. Unless EGR is blanked, when it will be 3.5 to 4.5v, and fairly steady, as the valve is driven full open. Also the valve may remain closed for a few seconds to a minute or so right after a cold start. The importance of the steady reading is that a varying reading while it is expected to be steady would indicate a bad connection. The motor drive signals (1 & 5) I am not so sure of, and they could vary with ECU type. I have measured the voltages needed to drive the motor, but not on the car. I would guess one of the lines will be near battery positive while Ign is on, and other will be driven to a lower voltage to energise the valve. But it is possible that it will be the other way round, one line near battery negative, and the other driven to a higher voltage to energise the valve. What I can say is that the voltage on both lines will be the same (both ground or both battery positive) with Ign on & engine off, and at any other time while the valve is closed. Also when the valve is operating (engine idling), there will be a rather variable voltage of 2v to 4v between the two. I have just re-checked my old (OEM) EGR actuator. Pin 5 is +ve, and Pin 1 is -ve, to drive the valve open. And the voltage to drive the motor is lower than I thought, 3v was enough to move the actuator to the fully open position.
  11. Tdci-Peter

    dashboard cluster

    It will be a lot of work to use a replacement Cluster. The PATS (immobiliser) info is stored in there, so you will need Forscan with an extended license, and have to follow some fairly critical procedures to re-programme it. Or pay a Ford dealer, or a good locksmith or auto-electrician to do it. The different letters at the end may mean a different engine. The diesel & petrol clusters have some significant differences. I repaired a Cluster fault for free, it was just a couple of dud solder joints. In my case it refused to start, as the immobiliser became locked on. There are also places offering to repair it for about £100. A local radio / TV repair shop may also be able to repair it if the problem is visually evident, as it was in my case once the thing was dismantled.
  12. Tdci-Peter

    Egr wiring tests

    Mine moves when the ignition is turned off, even if the engine is not started. It should move within a minute or so of starting the engine also. It sounds like a wiring fault. Does you car have that big connector next to the EGR valve? If so the wiring probably goes via that to the ECU. I have no diagram of it, but it should not take too long to do a quick continuity test on all connections to find the EGR ones. It is just possible the feedback pot is giving a high signal, which is preventing the ECU from energising the valve, but that should cause an error code. To measure voltages on live wiring on the car, google back-probing, if you have not already done so.
  13. Tdci-Peter

    Egr wiring tests

    The motor is a 12v unit, though about 3v is enough to start it moving, and 6v to 10v is enough to move it all the way, just against its internal return spring, if I recall. The output from the ECU will be a 12v nom. (14v more likely in practice) PWM signal, at about 1kHz from the tone I can hear when it is operating, but a multimeter will read the average voltage, which is what the motor also responds to. Testing the loom can be a pain, as the connector at the ECU is usually protected by a security bolt, and I do not have a diagram for an S-Max ECU. If it is the same ECU as in the Focus, (Siemens/VDO), then there is a diagram on this site, and I can find pin numbers etc. Back-probing the EGR connector while connected and running may yield some clues. Also Forscan can read the EGR desired position, though on my car I don't think it can read the EGR pot feedback signal for some odd reason. I can give more info on Forscan if needed. It is probably the most capable DIY system that is available for Fords.
  14. Tdci-Peter

    2009 Ford Focus 1.8tdci wet belt confusion

    I also think the 1.8 (Lynx) is a really good engine to own. Euro 4 (in the Mk2 Focus) with no DPF, the main parts are tough and reliable. My oil stays quite clean for months after a change, even after 12 months it is not completely black, unlike most diesels. That means less carbon in the oil. Carbon in oil damages everything, it is a big problem in the older 1.6TDCI (DV6). The newer DV6C (eg in Mk3 Focus) may not have the same problem. The lower belt was a disaster for high mileage owners. The twin chain in engine oil has hardly any reports of failure over huge mileages, there are plenty of reports of premature lower belt failure. And it was never designed to be changed routinely, access to that lower area looks to be a nightmare with the engine in the car. I suspect all 1.8s since mid 2007 or so, have the lower belt. The VDO injector problem seems to be centered on 2008, but may extend into 2009. It seems to have happened after Siemens sold the VDO operation to Continental AG. Likely the knowhow to make these incredibly finely engineered piezo-electric valves did not really transfer well with the sale. Typical corporate incompetence!
  15. Tdci-Peter

    Egr wiring tests

    Found the post: Also there is a diagram of the valve & connector: All 5 wires go straight to the ECU. Though I suspect they may go via that big connector on the back of the engine. The wiring diagram does not show that one. I have just noticed your car is S-Max, so wiring colours may differ. But I suspect most engine bits are the same. ECU software may be a bit different though. Please let me know if there are obvious differences. Since you have changed the valve & actuator, either there is a fault in the new actuator, or there is a fault in the wiring, or even (hope not!) in the ECU. With the actuator removed from the valve, but plugged back in to the car wiring, you can see the power off test. Just cycle the ignition on then off. It should do a series of full actuations, probably to clean the valve, then hover in one or two places, then snap shut. I have a feeling that this test is what puts the EML on if it fails, it seemed that way on my car anyway. The EML is still not an MoT fail on a 2006 diesel, but a visible blanking plate in the EGR might be, though only if an eagle eyed tester spots it and knows what it is! Regarding other sensors, does the EML & DTC appear when blanked? On my car I could still get errors while blanked off. That rather narrows it down to the EGR valve. When blanked, the valve is almost always either full shut or full open while driving. When not blanked, it mostly hovers in mid travel while idling and cruising. It closes in over-run or at more than about 50% of full power, or at over 2500rpm. The sensors that control this are the MAP, IAT2 and the MAF. The airflow through the engine can be estimated from MAP, RPM and intake air temp (IAT2) in the air duct just before the manifold. This estimate includes the EGR flow. The MAF measures air into the system, prior to EGR flow. So the difference should be the EGR flow. However this is rather approximate, subtracting a rather imprecise MAF reading from a complex computed estimate is obviously dodgy. Since I get no errors when the valve is blanked off (if the actuator is working ok), and the ECU knows this as it drives the EGR hard open to try to get the flow it wants, then it seems the ECU accepts the error. But it does not like it when its power off test fails, or the pot reading does not match the motor drive voltage. So the above rather complicated paragraph means that I think most EGR DTCs on this engine are directly related to the valve or its wiring.