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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.


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Tdci-Peter last won the day on January 15

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About Tdci-Peter

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    1.8 TDCI Mk2
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  1. Maf brand matter?

    First step, like Tom says, is get the dodgy MAF replaced or refunded. A good supplier should send you a pre-paid address label in a case like this where the goods are not as described. If it said new, unused, and with no comment about poor packaging, then your unit is SNAD. I had this a couple of times last year. A coupe of good photos is usually enough to convince them. Airflow problems are a bit of a pig, it is all so inter-dependant. A fall in boost pressure will make the air flow (MAF reading) drop immediately, as less air is going in. A fall in MAF reading (due to a fault), I would not expect to make an immediate fall in boost (MAP). Only if the ECU read the fall from the MAF and deliberately cut the turbo boost, would the MAP fall, so there should be a delay. I am looking at this on my car a bit, I have been getting the odd P0299 error for ages (Turbo underboost), but it is getting a bit more frequent. So I have been recording MAF & MAP. They normally seem to track quite closely, though RPM will affect MAF in a different way to MAP. Fuel problems can also cause airflow dips, the turbo will give less boost if the exhaust gas cools due to a drop in fuel injection, and this will also be a very rapid change. But you would usually feel the drop in power if this happened. A bit of my latest Forscan run is below. (The light blue line in g/sec is MAF, FRT is fuel rail temperature, the green line is fuel rail pressure, APP is accelerator pedal)
  2. Maf brand matter?

    It certainly sounds like it is wrong, probably reading full range. For a 1.6l engine, even if it pulled in the full volume each 2 revs (4 cyl, 4-stroke), and had a MAP reading of 2.4 bar abs (1.4 bar or about 20psi of boost), and at 3000rpm, then the air flow would be 1.6 x 3000 / 2 / 60 x 2.4 x 1.2 grams/sec = 115 g/s. And a lot less at lower rpm, or lower boost pressure. Also it is unlikely to suck in the full 1.6l, in reality. By comparison, a Forscan run I did recently on my 1.8, gave 106 g/s at 2500rpm and 2.1 bar MAP reading. And 11g/s at idle. Doing that calc on those figures gives 94g/s, I wonder now if my MAF is reading a bit high? But that is not relevant here, what is more relevant is that the 9 to 80 g/s from the old MAF is not far off being right, maybe a tiny bit low. What I think was wrong was the sudden, unexplained dips in the reading that were seen. Could that possibly have been a bad connector?
  3. Ford Fiesta MK7 Secret Diagnostics Menu

    It is a useful test, present on quite a lot of Fords. But the DTC codes look very strange when read. If any are there, they can be turned into normal DTCs as follows: The first digit/letter gives both the 1st letter and the 1st digit of the DTC: 0 = P0, 1=P1, 2=P2, 3=P3 4 = C0, 5=C1, 6=C2, 7=C3 8 = B0, 9=B1, A=B2, B=B3 C = U0, D=U1, E=U2, F=U3 The next 3 digits / letters from the cluster are the next 3 characters of the DTC. The final 2 characters from the cluster are an extension to the DTC, but can usually be ignored. So 029961 from the cluster would be DTC P0299-61 and D90045 from the cluster would be DTC U1900-45 as two random examples.
  4. Some help removing key ignition lock assembly Mk2

    The transponder unit is that little ring round the ignition lock, as you say. It is a completely dumb sensor. It can activate the PATS chip inside the head of the key, and receive the digital number that the key then transmits. The power the key needs to send this comes from the transponder ring, so no battery is needed in the key for this. That is where the "Passive" in Passive Anti-theft System (PATS) comes from. The transponder just sends this code to the cluster. The ECU then reads it from the cluster over the main CAN bus. The security coding is stored in both the cluster and the ECU, which is why they must match. But any working transponder will do. All the security checking is done in the cluster and ECU. The central locking and alarm is an almost completely separate system. The key fob (with a battery for this) sends RF signals, this time the BCM (aka GEM) does most of the work. The fob RF signals work from many metres away, unlike the PATS signals which are very weak and short range. The PATS chip must be withing a couple of cm of the transponder to work. This means the PATS signals are practically undetectable by someone outside the car, so can not be scanned. The procedure to re-programme fobs for the central locking is in the user manual, is on this site lots of times, and is really very simple, just done in the car. Re-programming PATS (the immobiliser) is very much harder. It can be done on the Mk2 Focus (and quite a few Fords) using Forscan and an ELM327 interface, but is not something to play about with, as any faults (bad keys, bad ELM, computer crash etc) could be hard to fix, leaving the car immobilised. So just changing the inner lock part to allow the new key to fit should be enough. You may have to use another key for the central locking, or just a fob. They can be bought from Ebay.
  5. Thermostat??

    In this weather, 6 miles or more to get to temperature sounds normal to me, for a diesel. They are a lot more efficient than petrol engines, so waste a lot less heat into the cooling jacket. Downside of that is a long warm up time, especially in low speed (urban) running with the cabin heater on. If you stop after 5 miles or so, with the temperature gauge still low, and carefully feel the big hose from the thermostat to the radiator, then that should still be cold. If quite warm, then the thermostat could be sticking open. But my 1.8TCDI takes over 5 miles to get to working temperature, and that is on 60 limit roads, with some hills. So it is probably normal.
  6. Ford Focus Mk2 Common Problems Thread

    If removing F68 has no effect, then the fault must almost certainly be in the radio. F68 (Or F108 in later fuseboxes) is directly in line with the ignition switch Aux supply, so it would not matter if this switch was jammed on, removing F68 will kill the supply. If the fault was in the cluster, then it would less likely to make the radio stay on. But if the radio stays on, it has been known to keep the cluster on, and maybe the ECU. The only other possibility is that something is feeding power into the Aux wire after F68. But until the radio can be unplugged, it will be almost impossible to tell. In the drawing below, FJB is the engine bay fusebox, the part of the box at the bottom left is the passenger fuse box, F108 is F68 in the earlier type fusebox, and the box on the right is the radio. Terminal 75 on the ignition switch is the Aux supply terminal.
  7. Ford Focus Mk2 Common Problems Thread

    Yes, I see now. You suspect the Aux power is not turning off. One quick test is: does the radio go off while cranking (starting)?. On almost all Fords, including Mk2 Focus, the Aux power is turned off at the ignition switch when it is turned to start position. The fuse in the Aux supply to the radio is F68 (F108 in later fuseboxes), Measuring the voltage on this fuse will test if the Aux supply from the ignition switch is being turned off. Also removing it should make the radio shut down. Modern radios / audio heads take their power from the battery live supply, they only use the ignition controlled supply as a control input to tell them when to turn on or shut down. So a fault in the radio remains a possibility until F68 has been investigated. If removing F68 makes it all shut down, then adding a switch in series with this fuse could solve the problem. F68 also supplies power to the cluster.
  8. Ford Focus Mk2 Common Problems Thread

    The ECU gets permanent power from various connections to the engine bay fuse box, and the signals to power it down will come digitally over the HS-CAN bus from the cluster. So there is no simple manual way to force it to shut down. If it is powered down by removing its fuses, or disconnecting the battery, it may forget its adaptions and have to re-learn each time, with some effect on fuel consumption and driving. The ECU is not directly shut down by turning off the ignition, it can have important jobs to do after stopping the engine, like testing the EGR, or keeping a cooling fan running. It turns itself off by de-energising the engine management relay (R6 in the engine bay fuse box) when it has completed all jobs, and has received correct data from the cluster about shut down. The cluster is a gateway to the MS-CAN bus, which is connected to all the interior electronics. Thus any interior electronics which is giving erroneous signals on the bus can keep the cluster from shutting down (odometer light on), and this in turn can prevent the ECU from shutting down. That is why I suggested physically disconnecting units on the MS-CAN bus, like the radio, parking aid, tow module, etc. To completely remove them from the CAN bus system. One useful test is to identify R6, and see if if is remaining energised long after ignition off. This relay powers several current consuming sensors and systems around the engine.
  9. Good egr voltages

    The OP has not been back to the site since September 2016, so sadly we may never find the end of the story. That happens very often. I would go with Ian's values for the Sensor: Pin 1 = 5v ref, Pin 5 = 0v ground, Pin 4 = Signal: 1v closed, 4.2v open. The motor drive voltages will be variable as they come from the ECU / PCM. Normal operating would be 12v on pin 3 while the valve is being driven open, with a lower (modulated) voltage on pin 2. But Pin 3 may go to 0v while the valve is being driven closed, it looks like the ECU can power the motor in either direction. It still seems like the valve on the OPs car was jammed shut, or the sensor was giving a wrong, fixed reading. The ECU tried to open it, but gave up and powered it down when the sensor reading did not respond, raising the DTC error code. On the 1.6TDCI, it may be that the open and closed values stored in the ECU must be re-learnt if the valve is changed. A diagnostic system like Forscan can initiate this.
  10. Ford Focus Mk2 Common Problems Thread

    http://www.bba-reman.com/gb/index.aspx I would guess. But primary suspects with odometer staying lit are the radio / audio system, Bluetooth adapters, and other add-on gadgets. I would suggest fully disconnecting (at the connectors, not just the fuse) all non-essential items like this as part of an elimination process, before blaming the ecu.
  11. replaced fuel filter CAN'T START

    Yeah, that is always the difficult decision. I have seen Delphi IMVs down to about £50, but it is the labour that is the big difference, it is a lot of work to remove the pump, even if the timing does not need re-adjusting after. A re-con pump will come with either a new IMV, or at least one that is tested to work ok. A couple of relatively simple tests that could be done are to check the resistance of the IMV coil, it should be below 150 ohms and stable, but not a dead short. Also probing the signal to the IMV while it is energised, to check for broken wires etc. Usually these valves have to be energised to raise the fuel pressure, so should energise during cranking, or just with ignition on. If you can see in the tank with the sender unit removed, you could check for metal particles in there too. On my car the fuel return pipes go to the tank, not to the filter, so any swarf from a breaking up pump would go to the tank first. You should be able to follow the return pipes from pump and injectors on your car to see where they go. The diagram I found above shows it going to the tank. Another test might be to crank while measuring the return flow from the pump. If this is quite high, then the IMV is big suspect, as it is there divert the flow from the 1st stage of the pump into the 2nd, high pressure, stage. When the IMV is open, the flow from the 1st stage just goes back to the tank, not into the 2nd stage. A lack of return flow, from both injectors and pump, would suggest either the pump (1st stage) is worn, or there is air getting in, or a fuel line blockage.
  12. replaced fuel filter CAN'T START

    The lower camshaft belt pulley is bolted direct on to the fuel pump chain sprocket, so will have to be unbolted and moved out of the way. If great care is taken to ensure the belt does not slip a tooth at either end, and the pulley / sprocket and chain can be replaced exactly as removed, then you might be able to avoid the fiddly re-timing job. But it may not be easy, as access is limited. I think I would replace the IMV first anyway, as this is a lot cheaper. The symptoms match a failed IMV, it can prevent the pump generating any useful pressure. If there is no metal in the fuel filter, you may be lucky and the pump is ok.
  13. MAF Problem

    That is a really good MPG for freezing cold weather in Winter! My MPG has plummeted lately, my car does not like the cold, and nor do I! Even a friend of mine with a 2 year old diesel Suzuki says his MPG is well down in this weather. If it can do that without a MAF, then it is a pretty good engine, apart from the MAF problem. In UK, EML on is not an MoT failure (yet!), I think I would keep it until better weather, then do a bit more investigating down at the ECU end. To make sure no wires are crossed, or as Ted (Micro) & I suggested, a pull-up resistor is giving the +12 reading, and the fault is in the MAF after all.
  14. I am sure that Forscan will be ok with other programs, it is quite basic, as software goes, and self contained, so should not interact at all. It does not seem to contain any of the unpleasant system modifying options, like changing your browser settings, that a lot of "free" windows software does. Loads of people on this site have installed it without any problems, apart from have to sometimes locate and download a suitable USB driver for the ELM. Forscan is an independent co-operative, non commercial organisation, based mainly in Russia, though it is very much multi-national. I have made jokes about it all being a Putin plot to de-stabilise the West , but I really do not believe there is any truth in that. It is more that, in remoter parts of the world, the nearest dealer or expert may be many hundreds of miles away, so DIY fixes to these modern systems are essential. The need for 2 keys is a Ford thing, it is for added security. If all keys stored in the car are erased from it, it must have 2 key codes added before it will start. I think you can add a new key even if you only have one of the two (or more) keys already stored in the car. I seem to recall the max is 8. Ford programmers will deliberately have run the immobiliser code right through the PCM (ECU) code, to make it hard to defeat. I have never heard of a service to disable the immobiliser. The location of the PATS chip inside the key seems to vary quite a bit. Sometimes it is easy to locate, but sometimes it seems to be moulded into the plastic key head. By putting a PATS chip that is valid for the electronics (IC & PCM) into a key with a blade that is correct for your car, will remove the need to change any lock barrels, or have separate keys for ignition and doors. Note that the remote control (central locking part) is dead easy to re-programme, it is in the car user manual, so that should not give any problems. Delphi diagnostics may be able to read & programme injectors. The 1.6TDCI fuel & PCM systems are Bosch, but Delphi may be able to cope. Try it, it does no harm to read data, just read the screen, and avoid any updates or changes. Forscan always seems to warn you and ask for confirmation before making changes. Your plan sounds fine. Forscan will not, in itself, delete or map out an EGR. It is capable of uploading new maps or code, but will need an external source for these maps or code. It is primarily a diagnostic and maintenance system, and works within the car's normal systems. It will be able to force the PCM to re-learn a new EGR, as that is a basic maintenance operation.
  15. Ford Focus Mk1 Common Problems Thread

    That sounds like the IAC (Idle air control valve) to me. The codes (DTCs, which should be a letter & 4 digits in full), are a guide to a general area, but are not 100% specific, especially in cars of this age. My Vectra, of similar vintage, claimed the MAF was faulty with just those symptoms, but it was just a sticky IAC. It needed removing, and a really good clean out with meths or similar. My first clean was quick and did not get right up inside it, but it changed the symptoms a bit, so I though I was on the right track. I gave it a much better clean out when I had a bit more time, and it fixed it. I suspect the speedo fault is a separate problem, as it has been happening for some time before the stalling, and is unlikely to cause a stall. Maybe a faulty VSS (speed sensor), or connector to it.