Tdci-Peter

True Ford Enthusiast
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Tdci-Peter last won the day on January 28

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About Tdci-Peter

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Peter
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    1.8 TDCI Mk2 Focus
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Dorset
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. I would go a little higher than 4 ohm. 21W bulbs at front and back, plus 5W for the side is 47W, less say 7W for your new LEDs, you need to lose about 40W. At 14v (typical running voltage), a 4.7 ohm resistor would do, and since the power is only ever on for 50% of the time or less, the 25W rating would be ok. Those aluminium resistors need bolting to a metal surface to dissipate their rated power, they will get very hot with around 20W being dissipated in them. You can use a well earthed mounting bolt as the ground end for the resistor. A separate resistor is a nuisance to mount and wire, but is actually much better than including the resistor inside the LED bulbs. LEDs benefit from running cool, and a hot resistor is a very poor companion for them!
  2. I missed the diagnostic codes you posted! Seen them now though. The U1900 code in the IC does not mean much on its own, it is a very frequent code, often just a result of the diagnostic process. So two codes on cyl.1 does stack up with hesitations. As far as I know, there is no need to recode petrol injectors. A simple swap sounds like a good idea, since one of the codes points towards an electrical circuit problem.
  3. 'Fraid not! BCM / GEM / Passenger fuse box (same thing on a Focus) controls wipers, lights, locking, windows, etc. It has the switch circuits for a/c and cruise control, but the ECU actually controls these two, just getting the switch state info from the BCM over the CAN bus. The ECU is firmly and solely in charge of almost all engine related stuff. From injectors, Turbo & EGR to the cooling fan. It is certainly true that the BCM is rather prone to getting water damage on these cars, but it does not really stack up with the symptoms here.
  4. Yeah, I know what you mean, it happens to me too. Case in point. I just happen to be having a spell of ache or pain in my neck, just off to one side towards the right shoulder. I have been taking Ibuprofen for it occasionally since Friday, but is a bit persistent. Had it before, and it certainly feels like muscular / joint pain. Maybe I will have to consider a visit to a doctor if it persists too much longer! Though my confidence in GPs is not being built up much here. GPs have worked ok for me in the past, though not always 1st time. I had 3 bouts of frozen shoulder about 10 years ago, just pain killers the first 2 times, then pain killer plus a physio appointment the 3rd time. And the exercises suggested by the physio have cured the problem very well. Not returned since.
  5. I don't suppose you have ever read "Three Men in a Boat" by Jerome k Jerome. It is an excellent read if you have the right sort of sense of humour. One of the characters in it reads a book on self diagnosing medical problems, and by the time he had gone through it, he was convinced he had every illness in the entire book, apart from housemaids knee, and he wasn't even sure about that! He said: "I had walked into that reading-room a happy, healthy man. I crawled out a decrepit wreck." This was set in the 1880s - 1890s, so it is not a new problem! But a little more seriously, the NHS do have a site that provides some self diagnosis information on common problems. Basically it is to help people decide whether to go to a doctor or not, so helps identify real symptoms from false ones. I would trust it more than most of the random stuff on the 'net. Though maybe you have tried it already, and found it too vague or limited.
  6. There should be a manual headlight position between side and auto. The dashboard lighting should come on in either of those two (Side or manual head) positions. If it is just the auto setting that has stopped working, it will most likely be the sensor unit in the interior mirror. This is the rain sensor (if auto-wiping is enabled), but it doubles up as the light sensor for the auto-lamps. You should check F70 in the fuse box under the glove box. (F70 in most Mk2 cars, or F100 in the later fusebox.) The dash will not light in Auto setting if the sensor is faulty or the fuse is blown, so that the headlights do not come on.
  7. PCM is Ford speak for the ECU, also now called ECM sometimes. It is in front of the left front wheel, behind the wheel arch liner, but it has a security bolt to make access hard! IC is the Instrument Cluster, Dash or Clocks. FACM is Fuel Additive Control Module, for the Eolys system for the DPF. GEM or BCM or PJB are names for the passenger fuse box under the glove box in the Focus. I advise clearing the codes, now they have been logged, and see what comes back and when. It might help to see how intermittent the problem is. It must be intermittent, a fully broken HS-CAN bus will prevent the car starting, with PATS flash code 16. You did have one immobiliser DTC, which is very much linked to CAN bus problems. The HS CAN bus winds it way around the car, from IC, via FACM under the back seat, into the engine bay, to at least the ABS and steering, before finishing at the PCM. So there is plenty of scope for problems, sadly. I think I posted a more detailed list in that thread I linked to. But my first port of call would be those two connectors by the passenger door. You might be lucky and that is all it is.
  8. Tdci-Peter

    P042F

    The only sensor specifically for the EGR is the valve position sensor that is built into the valve. A "stuck closed" error could be a fault in this sensor, or the EGR valve connector or wiring. With a new EGR, the 1.6TDCI does have to learn the new settings. There is a procedure in Forscan for this. In some cases the car may eventually learn, but only if the difference is quite small. Otherwise it may mean a visit to your local franchised dealer with IDS!
  9. They are all electrical wiring faults, most probably a fault in the HS-CAN bus. There is no evidence there at all of any failures of individual parts, it is all interconnection faults. Bad comms and wrong voltages. For example, the clutch switch and brake switch do not go into the PCM on the Focus, they go into the IC, and get to the PCM over the bus. There is a FACM MIL request (to put the light on) in the PCM, and no corresponding real error in the FACM, Just a bus error and odd battery voltage error. The throttle pedal has two outputs, one direct to the PCM, and one to the IC, which again goes over the bus to the PCM. If your car was 2006, I would say it was definitely the IC that was the cause. But on 2008/9 cars, it seems to be more likely to be the wiring. Two connectors in front of the passenger door are particularly vulnerable to bad connections. Having said that, I would check the battery and charging system as well, dodgy, high resistance batteries and alternators with a failed phase can create all sorts of odd or noisy voltages, which upsets most of the electronics. But my money (all 50p anyway!) is still on a HS-CAN bus fault. A bit (well rather too much maybe) on the connectors & HS-CAN bus is here: If you then jump to the end of that thread, it did seem to be one of those two connectors, though only after following more red herrings than in most of the Atlantic! The IC test mode codes originally posted do have a meaning, they are the U1900 and U2510 codes that Forscan found in the IC. But it is a very limited test, only IC codes and maybe some OBD codes show up in it. Forscan is far more powerful.
  10. Yes, the IOS app has the same functionality to read all DTCs, access PIDs and Module Self-Test modes as the Windows one. The only limitation seems to be some things like PATS programming and software programming that need the extended license, which is only available for Windows or Linux. I can try to assist on setting up Forscan, but have only used the Windows version, so the details of the user interface may be different on an iPhone. I think Micro (Ted) on this site had a ti-VCT, and did some Forscan runs on it. I have found one such run. As the car had a problem at the time, it is not great as a comparison, but at least gives some idea of the PIDs that are available. (A PID is just a value that can be read out of the module, eg ECU, or PCM as Ford then called it.) A full check of DTCs could rule out bus errors, and may point at a suspect area. Logging data can see if the car is normally achieving closed loop mode or not. This mode is where the fuel/air mix is finely controlled by the O2 sensors to the optimum. Errors and abnormal running (ie start-up) will cause it to use open loop mode where the MAF sensor is use to estimate the amount of fuel needed. From there, with luck, it may be possible to narrow it down to one sensor or system, but it is not always easy!
  11. Ouch , that is a wild exaggeration. I sometimes go for several days, even weeks, between having to repair or fix my Ford! But then it is a 2006 model, not one of the "buy today, throw in the bin tomorrow" modern versions. It is not the production that is the problem now. That was the problem in the 1970s: an unmotivated, don't care, workforce. Now the problem is design. Very, very poor design. Designers today need to know 100 times more than designers in the 70's, but in fact they actually know about 10 times less. I call design today, Bodging. And I am sorry if that is insulting to the original bodgers of yesteryear. They could make wooden furniture very accurately, then just bash it together with a hammer and no nails, screws or glue, so that it would last for years. But they were very experienced, and very skilled. Bodging has come down a lot since then, anything just bashed together gets the name. Design today consists of taking great lumps of hardware, software or both, from past projects or from sellers. Roughly fitting it together to attempt to do the job you want. Hacking the bits about in a semi-random manner until it looks like they might work, and then bashing it all together. Of course, this fails dismally, so lots more random hacking and bodging follows, until you get something that just about staggers through a half baked acceptance test. Then out the door with it, Let the customers and poor old support staff deal with the complete disaster while the designers get on with the next, even grander, bodging mission. Maybe that sounds like the jaundiced opinion of an old school designer, but the truth is out there, all around. And it is something that I definitely do not like much at all!
  12. Sounds like you have investigated the rear end quite well. There is another possibility. I could not see a simple electrical fault at the rear that would give your symptoms, but the PJB/BCM/GEM/Passenger Fuse box (call it what you like!) could do exactly that. And it is prone to suffering from corrosion due to water. The circuit from the brake switch goes direct to the brake bulbs, delivering 12v at quite high current. Cold filaments take a big inrush. But it also goes into the PJB. Corrosion causing tracking between pcb traces could couple the brake signal into the tailgate latch circuits, most likely into the switch circuit. Any sparking at the worn contacts of the brake light switch would make this more likely. It might be worth stripping the PJB down to have a good look at the pcb tracking. Sometimes they can be cleaned up ok.
  13. The tailgate latch earth wire is common with the earth wire from the high level stop lamp. An open circuit here could mean the tailgate latch gets energised when the brake lights go on. Also the latch, high stop lamp and left main stop lamp all have a common earth point on the left wheelarch. The other likely fail area is the rubber flexi-cable between the body and the tailgate. Wires have been know to go open circuit in here. I can not work out a single simple fault that creates your exact symptoms, but these are the wiring areas I would investigate first.
  14. As you have noted the codes, clear them and see what comes back soonest. If the Fuel pressure code comes back, I would investigate that before the turbo, the ECU could be getting itself a bit confused if the fuel rail pressure is reading wrong. After checking fuel filter, add to the list air ingress into the fuel lines, anywhere from the tank, via the filter, up to the main fuel pimp. Forscan is a very capable system, but the user interface is a bit quirky, and does take a bit of getting used to!
  15. If it really is once per wheel rev, it must be disk related. Most likely a tiny bit of dirt or rust between the disk and hub, making it wobble very slightly as it turns, or some grease or dirt at one point on the disk. Wear lines on the caliper bracket, which is a wearing part that is rarely checked, will make any slight sideways movement of the pads irregular, and cause a knock sound. If you have the usual Ford single piston caliper, then all of the wheel braking force is between the pad and the bracket. The caliper only provides the clamping (inward) force.