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Tdci-Peter

True Ford Enthusiast
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Tdci-Peter last won the day on January 11 2020

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  • First Name
    Peter
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    1.8 TDCI Mk2 Focus
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Dorset
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. Vacuum and MAP are the same thing in different units. Both come from the MAP sensor. I suspect fuel is mainly controlled by throttle position sensing, and by O2 sensing while idling with closed throttle. MAP, RPM & intake air temp will also go into the fuel injection look up table. If the throttle position indicator moves smoothly (at least as well as the update rate of the scanner can show), and consistently comes back to the same value, then it is not likely to be throttle or its sensor. Fuel would not make it rev high: too much will be evident by smell or smoke, and will tend to make it run rough or even stall. Not enough will speed it up a little, but without air it can not rev much. I suspect a sticky IACV. When you touch the throttle the IACV will close, then have to re-open as rpm drops back to idle, and can overshoot and stick open. I had a sticking IACV on a Vauxhall, which was a proportional solenoid. The drawings of the IACV for the Focus Mk1 look similar. Solenoids give a weak & springy force to the valve. I cleaned mine in situ, which did improve it a bit, enough to be fairly sure it was to blame. But it then rapidly got worse, and I had to remove it, and really clean it properly. I just used alcohol (meths will do, I used IPA), but I brushed it thoroughly inside, and moved the valve stem while doing it. This cured the sticking fully.
  2. All DTCs start with a letter: B,C,U or P. This can be very important, the same number may well be re-used. P1261 would be the Injector Short circuit code, it will be stored in, and raised by, the ECU (or PCM, or ECM in Ford Speak). Most codes raised by the BCM will be B codes. And they will relate to functions controlled by the BCM, or to system voltage (battery/alternator) problems. While water ingress into the BCM is a rather common fault, including via the washer wiring (though this is not so common), it is not very likely to be linked to engine faults. So I suspect the engine fault is not related to the BCM or washers. As you say, it was probably the injector problem from the start. Another (kind of related) fault that you can find on the 'net is where washer water leaks inside the bonnet, into spark plug holes on the engine. This would cause engine problems like power loss and stuttering, but only applies to certain petrol engines, not the 1.6TDCI. You are absolutely right about insisting on a print-out or good photo of any codes. You can not rely on them staying in the ECU for long. Sometimes they do, sometimes they are gone on the next ignition cycle. It seems to be at the whim of the writer of that bit of code. Even a good diagnostic system like Forscan will not find the short lived codes unless you can do a scan very soon. So keeping a decent diagnostic system in the car at all times is a very good idea. I have a cheap self contained one in the car, and take my laptop & ELM327 lead if I am going more than about 100miles from home.
  3. There is some confusion about the Mk numbers for the Fiesta, the UK added 1 compared to most of the rest of the World at some stage! Assuming a Mk6 is 2008 to 2019, the the 1.6TDCI seems to have been changed from the 16 valve, twin cam DV6 to the 8 valve, single cam DV6C in around 2010. You would need to check this. The DV6C is a much better, and very different, design with most of the widely reported failings of the older DV6 being cured. See: https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/47/no/16/1552/15413/67015/ https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/47/no/17/1553/15431/67112/ If it is the older DV6 engine: Change the oil a bit more often than normally suggested. And if it has the Eolys DPF system, do not ignore any error codes, check them out quickly. It can soon lead to a permanently blocked DPF if the Eolys system malfunctions, and it very often does. If it is the newer DV6C, it should be as reliable as any other engine around. Regarding fuel consumption, there are good engineering / scientific reasons for better fuel consumption & lower CO2. Higher compression ratio. Actually it is not the compression ratio that matters, it is the expansion ratio, but in most piston engines this is the same. The other name for the expansion stroke is Power stroke. So the more expansion of the gas you have, the more power you can potentially get out of each stroke. No Throttle: Putting a valve in the intake of an engine wastes a surprisingly large amount of power simply due to dragging air through a part closed valve, and in the way air flows through the valves, going the wrong way through the exhaust valve (at low power) when it first opens due to the partial vacuum in the cylinder. A Diesel takes full air on each stroke, just regulating the fuel to control the power. Fast Burn: To take advantage of the high expansion ratio, you need to get the fuel energy converted to heat Before most of the expansion. That way the gas pushes harder on the piston throughout the power stroke. There is no free time between compression & expansion, the piston can't just pause! So fast burn gets the energy used better. Diesel fuel burns very quickly as it is being injected into the hot, compressed gas in the cylinder. A petrol engine can still be burning fuel at the start of the exhaust stroke, Old petrol Aero or racing engines with stub exhausts can be seen with jets of flame from the exhaust. Spectacular, but Very wasteful! On my ancient 1.8, with 180k miles on the clock, I have been getting about 52-54mpg lately.
  4. Forscan, and some other diagnostic systems like Torque, will show you fuel rail pressure (as measured by the sensor), and many other things, while cranking. To get fuel rail pressure up to the 200bar (about) needed to fire up needs various things: Fuel (and NO air) up to the pump. VCV (fuel Volume Control Valve) energised & shut. Pressure regulating valve not leaking. (Leaks from VCV & Pressure regulator will usually be apparent at the pump fuel return connection, if disconnected.) No leaks on any injectors. (fuel leaking into cylinders will usually cause white smoke at the exhaust with extended cranking. Fuel can also leak to the injector "leak off" connector, which be measured directly by disconnecting.) In addition, it needs about 200rpm cranking speed to even try to fire up, though apparent lack of any fuel pressure does indicate a fuel problem. In the picture below, the silver valve nearer the front is the Pressure Regulator, it works on the high pressure output to release excess pressure, eg on sudden throttle release.. The darker valve nearer the back is the VCV, it works at lower pressure to regulate the flow of fuel into the main high pressure stage. It controls rail pressure under all normal conditions.
  5. I very much doubt if a 2009 car has an Idle control valve. Normally these were used with cable operated throttle valves. The fully electronic throttle control on almost all modern cars means the main throttle body can control idle speed, and there is no need for an expensive 2nd valve. See: https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/54/no/20/1556/15485/ Most likely cause is a problem with that throttle body, but you should read the codes first. Cleaning a throttle body will only deal with problems due to dirt or thick oil. Electrical problems in the motor or position sensor, or wiring, or ECU, will not be altered by this. Due to the way all the engine sensors are inter-related, it could be another part entirely.
  6. There are literally hundreds of reasons for the Engine Management light to come on. A bit less for the ABS & ESP lights, but still far too many to guess. I am 100% with Unofix on using Forscan to read the codes (DTCs), lots of info about it on this site, or just ask here. It could end up being an easy fix, but without more info it is impossible to say. Hard fixes are more common than easy fixes! It is a law of nature. Faulty ABS sensor would stack up with the lights, but just from the lights, I would not like to guess a cause. You do need the DTC's.
  7. The cat may not care much what is is called. I often called Blackie a lazy, fat, useless lump, but if I scratched his chin while I said it, he purred regardless, and if I stopped paying due attention, he dug his claws in just as a gentle reminder of what was important. But the neighbours and general passers-by (if you get many of those in Orkney) may care. The sexy James Bond girl name may give rise to a few quizzical looks if you go round in the garden or street at night calling for the wee beastie. 1000 Tonne Excavator had me confused (it doesn't take much these days ), so I had to google it! A driver of a giant Caterpillar digger may also get a bit confused if he (or even she) hears you calling for him/her! We gave up, and called one Stripey cat ('cos he was stripey), and the other Black cat, or just Blackie, for reasons equally obvious. Though the missus called Stripey cat Swayze (after Patrick) for some odd reason.
  8. The decision is out of your hands now! A long time ago, about 1990, my work assistant asked me if I would like a pair of rescued kittens. I thought about it for a good 2 seconds, and being mindful of Vet's bills and food bills, I said No thanks, it was too much of a commitment, or something like that. His wife worked for a Vet, and was involved in rescuing & re-homing pets. She obviously thought that was the wrong answer, so went over my head and spoke to my better (less mean!) half. Next thing I knew, two tiny kittens in a little box had arrived. And it was clear they were staying! I had the choice of like it or lump it, and they were very cute, so I chose the like it route! One of the cats disappeared a couple of years later, probably hit by a car or something, we did search but to no avail. But Blackie lived to a ripe old age, and was a really affectionate cat, as long as he got his own way, of course - if he got annoyed he let you know, as cats usually do. He was a big part of our lives, so even I could not begrudge the food bills, and the Vet's bills were just a minor annoyance, really. I have good memories of the 15 or so years that cat was with us.
  9. 9v over the solenoid seems a little odd. I am not sure which way the valve & solenoid work: If it needs vacuum to shut, or vacuum to open, and also if the solenoid has to be energised for vacuum at valve, or de-energised for vacuum. I assume that 9v was with the engine idling, in which case the valve should be fully or partly open. If the solenoid has to be energised for valve open. then it could be right, with the ECU cutting back the power a bit (from 13v to 9v) to avoid overheating the valve. If the car has a cDPF, the throttle valve should have a position sensor. Forscan should be able to read this sensor, and tell you if the valve was moving at all with the ignition on. It does not work (no diagnostics) with ignition off, so won't directly test the ant-shudder operation, but can still give useful info. Threads that just end with no conclusion are very, very common, not just on this site, but generally. It can be very frustrating!
  10. It looks like Germany has been having similar high pressure weather to the UK, with big day/night temperature swings. Might be even bigger in Germany. These can cause condensation under the bonnet as well as heavy dew. Most likely to happen in the morning when the sun starts to warm up the ground and surroundings, but the engine & other parts under the bonnet stay cold. Then the extra moisture in the warming air condenses on the colder parts. So if the problem happened in the morning after a cold night with heavy dew, it makes humidity affecting the ECU (aka PCM) more likely. Do you have Forscan? - You will need something like this to re-programme a replacement ECU. I just googled DTC P062D, and to my surprise found a Ford Transit with this error, that had water ingress in the PCM, and (very surprising) finished with an apparent cure after changing the PCM. So it certainly seems possible that PCM damage can be linked to this DTC. See: https://fordtransit.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=209373
  11. I have found an interesting (to some!) article in Wikipedia. It looks to me like the primer (which is what you have) goes in the bottom of the cartridge. It is to spread out the effect of the tiny percussion cap in the hole at the bottom, to evenly and quickly ignite the main propellant charge, which fills the cartridge. I guess the percussion cap is set off by a firing pin in the gun. The fuse is in the top of the shell (projectile), and detonates the bad bit. We had percussion caps on little strips of paper for our toy guns when I was a kid. They made a nice bang, with a whiff of smoke & sulfur. It made shooting my brother in a Western style duel much more realistic, though he usually refused to "die" properly! I have just looked, and you can still buy them: "Rolls of 100 shot paper caps" From: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_British_ordnance_terms#QF
  12. After I came up with the slightly mad idea, I Googled detonators & fuses, but did not find anything helpful. I also put Tom's image into Google Image search, which is usually very good, but it did not find it. So Mark has beaten Google. And that takes some doing! Technically I was wrong about it being a detonator, a shell has propellant that needs igniting. Detonating the shell inside the gun would not be a good idea, I certainly would not want to be anywhere near it! I think this device uses a percussion cap (a very small detonation) to ignite the propellant. Then some other device must detonate the high explosive charge when the shell reaches its destination. I am just glad that I have never faced any real possibility of being on the receiving end of things like this, unlike my parents. Both experienced WW2, my mother was in London part of the time, my father got injured on a journey via the Cape of Good Hope, possibly to the far east, and after recovery spent the rest of the war as a draughtsman helping design aircraft & related stuff. He also lived through WW1, though being only 6 at the end, I doubt if he saw much real action!
  13. Nothing you have said makes me think there may be a safety problem with the car. There may be long term damage problems, most of which should be well covered by warranty on a 2018 car. But I would try to dry it out as much as possible if there was any delay in getting it sorted. Excess moisture can cause long term damage that may fall outside the warranty period, like corrosion in wiring, electronics and connectors. In this weather, rain leaking in seems to be a less likely cause, so the heating & A/C system are the prime culprits for water build up inside the cabin. Maybe take photographic evidence of water or damp problems in case the dealership can't (or won't!) see the problems by the time it gets to them.
  14. I would say that rules out head gasket problems. So the most likely things are a problem with the condensate drain hose from the A/C, or a problem with with the Re-Circ flap or its control system.
  15. No, not really! If very humid air is drawn in to the heater/ac unit (due to moisture build up in the cabin, as the misting up of windows suggests), then when it passes through the cold evaporator it will become a mist of tiny water droplets. But it is hard to see any link to engine power. A/C evaporator temperature, if the A/C is working ok, should not vary much with rpm, and certainly should not vary with torque (throttle opening or engine load). If there was a coolant leak from the heater matrix, then any build-up of pressure in the engine cooling system would spray very hot coolant into the ac system, but it would smell quite strongly of anti-freeze, assuming the car has the proper anti-freeze content. And coolant level would drop slowly. Head gasket leaks can link engine torque (combustion pressure) to cooling system pressure, but it does not sound like the car has any of the other symptoms of a head gasket leak (coolant loss, white smoke & anti-freeze smell in exhaust, grey emulsion in oil, dirty or oily coolant, air locks in heating system, engine overheating). Without at least some of these symptoms, a HG leak is unlikely.
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