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Tdci-Peter last won the day on January 28

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About Tdci-Peter

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    Ford Enthusiast

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    1.8 TDCI Mk2 Focus
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    Computers & Electronics

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  1. A Daytime running lamp fuse is listed in my (2006) handbook, but it is probably not fitted, and there is a resistor and extra wire needed to make it work. But some countries made DTRLs obligatory well before the UK, so it would be needed for some exported cars.
  2. The remote control codes are stored in the BCM (passenger fusebox), so if this is changed they will need re-programming. There is a simple procedure for this in the user manual, or see: The odometer light & fuel gauge are a bit of a mystery, they are nothing to do with the BCM as far as I know, they are built in to or connected to the Instrument Cluster (dash). That must be working, or the car would not start at all.
  3. I understand a bit better now. Unfortunately I can not identify a clear cause for the warning light. I assume the reason for the steppiness of all the traces is the limited sample rate, so making time comparisons within one or two of those steps is dodgy. The big drop in FRP looks like one sample time, and could easily be the result of the ECU going into reduced power mode, or even a response to the APP change that appears just one sample later, the ordering of answers via the CAN bus is not guaranteed, especially as the ECU is busy dealing with what it sees as a fault. The MAP does seem to drop a bit a few samples earlier, but that could be in response to the small APP change just before that. If the FRP was the primary cause, I would expect such a large change to raise a fuel pressure DTC, not a turbo one. The RPM drop matches the FRP drop, so either the RPM reading is wrong (CAN bus or sensor error) or it happened while changing gear, again suggesting the APP trace is a bit delayed compared to the real sequence of events.
  4. Pic comes up quite clearly on my system. I can not see any problem with the fuel rail (FRP), it seems to follow movements of the accelerator pedal (APP) as expected, except when maxed out. The max limit of 21,000PSI is about right, I believe it is usually 1500Bar or 21750PSI. The MAP seems to follow the APP and FRP also, with a little delay which is to be expected. I can not really see what happens at the end, the APP dips, the RPM dips, then shoots up to a high value. I assume the car was out of gear (or changing gear) when this happened, as the vehicle speed could not have done that. But the MAP did not recover. The more detailed trace does not help much without the APP, which is usually the primary cause of all changes. You can not rely on tiny time differences between traces at one or two samples level. This data is being extracted over a CAN bus that can only carry one packet at a time, and it is busy carrying lots of other, more urgent, data between all the modules, IC, PCM, ABS & steering possibly. So there will be some variable latency in getting readings. Readings like engine load and vacuum gauge are just calculated from other sensors, so are not essential. There is also one anomaly between the two APP traces, near the start. It may be just an artifact of the data recording, but worth keeping a watch to see if it repeats.
  5. That stacks up with the stuttering when pulling away at low rpm. Opening up a bit from low RPM will give max. pressure in the inlet manifold, so max compression pressure. The voltage needed to make a good spark goes up with the compression pressure, so any problems with plugs, leads or coil pack will cause misfires.
  6. The top one is the Focus Mk2 fusebox (to about 2009), the lower one is the Focus Mk2a one, (from then to about 2011).. As far as I can tell, the connector pin connections are the same, but the fuse numbering is completely different, F37 to F86 in the Mk2 box, F100 on in the Mk2a box. Both contain an important electronic module, that used to be called the GEM, but is now usually referred to as the BCM (Body Control Module). This module is very similar between the Mk2 & Mk2a, but there may well be minor software changes that make it incompatible. This electronic module controls almost every output from the box, lights, wipers, the lot. 80% of the functions are software controlled, not direct electric / mechanical switching I suspect the simplest thing is to try to find a 2nd hand Mk2 fusebox. They are not expensive now. But try to get one from a car with matching specification. There are a lot of different options, and knowing Ford, they will do silly things like missing out fuse connectors for options not installed, as well as software changes.
  7. Yes, that is the beastie. Called C90, and its pin-out is: It carries most of the wiring for the ECU. The HS-Can bus is on pins 1 &15. This pic can be downloaded as a .PNG, when it can be seen a bit better. This pin-out is not on the circuit diagram available on this site, this is the best I have found, and seems right (in all the wires I have checked so far) for the Focus despite saying Kuga. I can extract more pin info from the circuit diagram if needed. I have not heard of any ECU failures on the 1.8TDCI, at least not on this site. The ECU alone would need to be programmed using Forscan for at least PATS, maybe other stuff ideally. The PATS keycodes seem to be stored in both the ECU and the Cluster, so they are often available as a pair with a key, but it is a big change to swap both, with no guarantee of success.
  8. The magnet test is a good starting point, but there are a couple of catches. Many austenitic stainless steels ( the most common Iron/Chromium/Nickel alloys) are slightly magnetic, one of those powerful neodymium magnets will stick to them, but much more weakly than with steel. It depends on things like work hardening and heat treatment. A bigger problem is that high temperature casings are often made from martensitic stainless, an Iron/Chromium alloy with no Nickel. This is cheaper then austenitic, still has adequate corrosion resistance in average conditions, and can be better at high temperatures. These types of stainless are very magnetic, nearly as much as steel. On a 2005 car, the presence of rust, where any zinc coating had corroded through, would be the simplest test. No brown rust normally forms on either type of stainless. Though they can still pit and crack under adverse conditions. Brown stains due to surface contamination by iron are common, but brush or sand off with no underlying marks.
  9. The combination of Immobiliser, Engine Systems Fault, and not being able to connect a diagnostic system, plus being intermittent, does sound like a bad connection in the HS-CAN bus that runs from the Cluster to the ECU. The classic 2006 problem was the CAN bus pins going dry joint where the connector socket was soldered to the Cluster PCB. But there are also 3 connectors in the CAN bus between these two modules, plus the ECU & Cluster connectors. Two are low down under the trim panel just in front of the front passenger door, (there are actually 3 connectors there, but the CAN bus goes through two), and the big connector inside the engine bay fusebox. The resistance across a CAN bus, with the car switched off, should be 60 ohms. You can measure this between pins 6 & 14 on the diagnostic connector. If you unplug any of the connectors in the CAN bus circuit, it should rise to 120 ohms, as you will no longer have the ECU 120ohm resistor in circuit. On a Mk2/2a, this fault is unlikely to be the BCM, it will be ECU or Cluster, or connections between them. CAN bus is the obvious starting point.
  10. That is a correct reading, the CAN bus is "broken" where you have pulled the plug out, so you are only measuring one end, which is 120 ohms nom. 196 does not sound right, the corresponding pins on the fusebox socket should also be 120ohm, as you are now measuring the other part of the bus and the other end. Also on a 200ohm multimeter range, the 196 may be wrong (low), change up to a higher range, eg 2k. I think the plug goes to the ECU, and the socket in the fuse box goes to into the car interior and on the diagnostic connector and cluster. I can have a feel of the wires on my car to check tomorrow, if it isn't raining!
  11. It has pickled me too! And I am supposed to be an electronics engineer with 40+ years of experience, so can't really use your excuse! I guess my next step would be to check the resistances at the C90 connector (that big one) pins. To see if there was continuity to the ECU mainly. The pins are 1 & 15, the grey/red & blue/red twisted pair of wires. If known good diagnostic systems can not connect, then either there is an electrical fault in the CAN bus, or the ECU is not powered up properly (blown fuse, bad earth, broken wire etc), or the ECU is fried. Better ignore that last one for now though! C90 pin-out:
  12. That is a weird one! Was that the big connector with the blue handle at bottom center in the photo below? I am sure when I undid mine, the resistance changed from 120 to very high, and all the info I have says that the HS_CAN bus must go through this connector, and that there must definitely be a 120 ohm terminating resistor in the ECU, which is where that connector goes to. So it should go up from 60 ohms to 120 in your case. The bus also goes through a couple of connectors just in front of the passenger door, behind the plastic trim. (There are three down there, two of which carry the HS-CAN bus), and un-plugging these will separate the cluster and diagnostic connector from all stuff under the bonnet, which may only be ABS & ECU on a 1.6 petrol, it also goes to the EHPAS if fitted.
  13. Most of those priming pumps are ****. I fitted a non-return valve in the fuel line, which combined with the bulb did an adequate job. The non-return valve I used was the 8mm version of: Photos in: Forscan will not bleed the air out!, but it is a useful tool for any Ford owner to have. The adapter costs about £16, eg like: and the software is free download for WIndows or modest charge for iOS or Android Apps from: If a really good method of priming the system, where you can feel solid resistance of fuel up to the pump, fails, then Forscan might help to identify some other problem like the VCV valve or insufficient rpm.
  14. There is no order, it is a matter of ramming fuel (ideally from before the filter in order to avoid ramming any dirt in!), into the pump, then cranking a bit, and repeating. It needs a good quality priming bulb or pump capable of a reasonable bit of pressure. Many priming bulbs, like the one I bought, have badly made valves that hardly give any pressure. You need to be able to push fuel fairly hard into the pump to push the air out of the other side into the return pipe to the tank. Go easy with the easy start. The compression ratio is high, and the ignitions are completely uncontrolled. There are reports of damage to glowplugs and even injector nozzles from detonations caused by this method of starting a diesel. Rare, I am sure, but it can happen. Forscan can record the fuel pressure and rpm build up while cranking, to verify if the pressure is going up ok. It needs about 200rpm and about 200Bar of pressure before the injectors start to open and fire up the engine. Below is a normal engine start.
  15. Try the sales areas: Or the older cars clubs, like escort & sierra maybe. And if you don't succeed at first, try, try again! It all depends on having a post near the top when an interested person is on line. Few people drill down very far on any Internet site. A few photos might stoke up some interest as well.