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Tdci-Peter

True Ford Enthusiast
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Tdci-Peter last won the day on January 11 2020

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About Tdci-Peter

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Peter
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    1.8 TDCI Mk2 Focus
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Dorset
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. B1681 might be a helpful code here, also the PATS flash code might be useful. B1681: PATS Receiver Module Signal Not Received That suggests the IC (cluster) is not getting a signal from the transceiver module around the ignition key. If you were using a diagnostic system like Forscan, it would tell you which module the fault code was in. If the code was in the IC, it would confirm it was the short link from transceiver to IC. It could be a fault in the cluster, a connector or wiring problem, or a faulty transceiver. If the DTC was in the PCM (ECU), then a CAN bus fault is more
  2. A regen is only 5 to 15 minutes, quarter of a tank should be plenty. More possibly a problem is that a regen will not happen if there are existing significant engine related faults. The EGR and the EGR throttle valve are used in the regen, and the P1402 DTC may be enough to prevent it. You have already said that it returns almost as soon as it is cleared, so it seems a permanent fault. But it will be a useful test to try it. I would clean the oil off, and then monitor it to see if it returned. But even tiny leakage from air hose joints can cause oily residue, I have had these, There is al
  3. A split air hose makes a whooshing or hissing noise while the turbo is running hard, with a substantial boost pressure. There should be no boost pressure at idle, or even when cruising under light load, etc. So it would not happen at switch off. Various valves, and the radiator fan if running, will make noises on switch off. To connect Forscan to the car only needs the ignition to be on, and PIDs can be set-up and read before the engine is running. Temperature readings etc should be valid with engine off, and other readings like rpm can be read, but will be zero. I have run Forscan all th
  4. It is not likely to be anything to do with your short journeys. All the stories about batteries going flat from short trips are many years out of date, mainly from the old days of dynamos back in the 60s & 70s, that did not charge while idling. All modern alternators will charge while idling. I have been keeping my sister in law's car operational for over a year now, since before the 1st Covid lockdown (she broke her leg, and it still has not healed at all well). All I do is start it and let it idle for a few minutes once a fortnight. Only very heavy loads like front or rear screen he
  5. A head gasket can vary if the leak is small. With aluminium engines, starting up from very cold conditions is more likely to cause a leak, as the aluminium contracts more than the steel head bolts. Once it seals, in warmer weather, it may stay sealed. The amount of white smoke will be directly related to the amount of water loss at any time. So if the head stays sealed, no white smoke. The usual head gasket water test on petrol engines is to use a chemical that indicates CO dissolved in the water. This can be quite un-reliable, and should not be relied on alone, only in conjunction with o
  6. It can't actually evaporate and vanish in the engine, it has to go somewhere. Anti-freeze gives the best clues: If there is none in the system then it is an existing problem, and the seller just put water in to save money. If it is clean & pink to orange (almost fluorescent in the right light), then it is Ford long life anti-freeze, and the loss may only be very small. It is a bit more expensive than old 2 year stuff, so less likely to be used as a regular top-up. If it is blueish, dirty or any other colour, then it has been mucked about with, indicating a longer term problem. The oth
  7. If the DTCs (fault error codes) are current, then it will not be doing regens, and the dpf will slowly clog up, possibly to the point where it can not regen even if all the faults are fixed. If the dpf is to be replaced, then this may not matter. Try clearing the codes, to see if and when they return. Better, get Forscan (under £20 with a Windows laptop, not much more with Android or iOS. That can give a more complete idea of what is going on, and can even do a forced regen while stationary (it will not do it if there are errors, but it is another useful test anyway). A prime cause of pow
  8. Very unlikley to be in the PCM, More likely in the engine bay fuse box. Have you checked out this info, I am assuming a Mk3 Mondeo will be very similar, though the Mk4 came in about 2007.
  9. I have been towing trailers, often quite heavy, for many, many years, from using an 1.5l old Triumph which has a lot less power than the 1.6 Focus, up to my current 1.8l diesel Focus which hardly notices the heavy trailer at all, except for more fuel consumption. As you say, it is just a matter of adjusting driving style to suit, and not dashing out into a narrow gap in traffic when pulling a heavy trailer! I fitted an approved towbar (from Just Tow) to my Mk2 Focus, and it was really very straightforward, the drilling points in the floor of the car boot were clearly marked with dimples.
  10. I discovered the electric screwdriver around about 1991. I became so addicted and entranced by it that I carried it with me almost everywhere, regardless of any likely need, hoping to find some screws that needed doing up or undoing! It could even be used as a drill, to make holes to fit screws into. It took me many years to come to terms with this craving, it still re-occurs from time to time even now! And I still have the original tool, after several replacement batteries and lots of bits. I use it as often as I can.
  11. When all the injectors are changed, on engines up to about 2008, the Forscan team recommend a "reset the knock sensor learned values" procedure be done. On these engines there are no calibration values to be programmed in, but the ECU has to learn the new characteristics of the injectors, and the reset procedure speeds this up. Idle is where the timings and voltages are likely to be most critical due to the small injections needed. One problem is the knock sensor was not fitted after some time around 2008, so this may not be applicable. There is still, I think, a reset PCM adaptations opt
  12. Water can cause all sorts of electrical problems. Engine bay connectors and wiring is all intended to be waterproof, but it rarely is 100% waterproof when new, let alone after 12 years. I suggest getting a good code reader like Forscan, and using it whenever a light comes on, and logging & clearing the codes. This may lead to a particular part of the car that has an intermittent malfunction, like a dodgy connector - all too common on modern cars. The fault may go away after it all dries out, but damp and corrosion related problems are very likely to happen again, usually in damp condi
  13. If a warning lamp is on, there will be some codes stored somewhere in the car. As Luke says, many generic (multi-manufacturer) scanners are not good at picking up Ford specific codes. Sometimes codes do vanish quickly with one or two ignition cycles, but if the light stays on I would expect the code to still be there. I also recommend Forscan as the best available system for Fords. It is not expensive, though it may not be the most convenient or easiest to use system. But it is powerful. There is loads of advice about it on this site, See There are literally many hundreds of reasons for
  14. Real genuine new injectors must be getting rare and expensive, I would have thought. It is over 12 years ago these batches were made, and while that basic injector design may have continued, there are so many models and variants that I doubt if the Lynx injectors continued in production for long. I would suspect that new replacements might be Chinese copies rather than VDO originals. Not that the VDO brand name is much of a guarantee after the transfer from Siemens to Continental, and the almost immediately following manufacturing problems (co-incidence? not likely!). I would stick with w
  15. It is the density of normal ambient air. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Density_of_air 1.2kg/cubic metre = 1.2g/l. This density reduces proportional to the absolute pressure as it goes through the throttle into the inlet manifold "vacuum" (Boyles Law, and assuming no significant temperature change at that stage), my 0.3Bar is a bit of a guess. There will however be a significant temperature drop when petrol evaporates in the inlet manifold and cylinder during the intake stroke. This will vary a lot, and will be counteracted by heating from the hot cylinder head, piston and cylind
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