Tdci-Peter

True Ford Enthusiast
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Tdci-Peter last won the day on January 11

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About Tdci-Peter

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    Ford Enthusiast

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  • First Name
    Peter
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    1.8 TDCI Mk2 Focus
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Dorset
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. That is quite a big chunk of power. People worry about small loads like TVs, computers, low energy lighting etc, quite a lot, but they really don't add up to much. I use 10 to 12 units (kWh) per day, summer and winter. That is for 2 old computers (one on 24/7), TV, various electrical test equipment, fridge-freezer, oven, CH pump, lighting, etc etc, And the house is occupied 24/7 for at least 51 weeks a year! It is an old, poorly insulated house also. All my heating is gas (or wood), both water and CH, and the hob is gas. So it is really only room heating and water heating that consumes large amounts of power. A thermostatic electric radiator or fan heater can easily clock up 20 units a day. I am glad I have gas, electricity is now over 4 times the price of gas, 4.8 times to be exact on my tariff (Bulb Energy). The price of electricity is rising fast, I suspect heavily subsidised solar installations have something to do with this. My gas use is massive, over 80kWh per day in Winter, about 18,000 kWh per year. But it still only costs about the same per year as my electric.
  2. I am assuming it is 2l TDCI. The only engine temperature sensor is the CHT sensor mounted in the thermostat housing. It sends a signal direct to the ECU. Its value can be read with most decent diagnostic systems like Forscan or Torque, and the gauge on the cluster is controlled by this reading, though there is some question about whether the reading here is mucked about with by the software in some way. Test if the fan turns on (low speed) with the A/C on. If not, then a fault in the fan motor/driver unit is likely, or a broken wire or bad connection to it. The fan module is an electronic unit with motor built in. It has 3 wires to it: ground, 12v from a relay & fuse in the engine bay fusebox (R14, F1), and a control wire from the ECU which I assume is PWM for variable speed control. So check it is getting power & ground ok, and then maybe if there is some sort of signal on the line from the ECU.
  3. Great video. Over the years I have learnt to use all those tips, though it took quite a few years to appreciate some of them! It undermines the whole principle of adaptive cruise control, the weak software in that will not be looking ahead in anything like the same way as in the video. Plus all the important facts about driving too close. When you see a video like that, sitting at a desk, you can really see that even at 30, potential trouble can approach very quickly, and there are so many things to watch out for. Vehicles pulling out, pedestrians stumbling into the road, stationary traffic round a bend just as three examples. I would like to add a couple of tiny points that struck me. When he said concentrate 60% of the time, he did not mean 60% of the journey, with long periods fiddling with CDs, programming the sat nav or dealing with complex phone calls. He meant 60% of every single second, or less. If something needs eyes & mind off the road for more than a second, you need to plan ahead very carefully, or just don't do it. The point about stress is a very good one. When he said, ok, everyone suffers from stress, he could have emphasised more how emergency service drivers have to deal with this. You know someone might be bleeding to death, or a worsening situation may lead to death & serious injury, but when driving, forget this. Concentrate on driving to the best of your ability, using your training and experience, regardless of the desperate urgency. If a trained driver can do this in a life and death situation, ordinary people like me should be able to do it if we are a bit late for work, school or some other appointment. But very often we don't.
  4. You could have a look through this thread: Some of the photos have been partly spoiled by that wretched photobucket rubbish. And it is quite long with lots of discussion. There are at least two sorts of linkage, the bowden cable and the solid bar. The bowden cable type is the most common. There are also several different failure modes, so some of the tricks only work on one type of failure. But it is a very common problem on this model of car.
  5. Most likely to be the rubber diaphragm washer in the ball valve. The rubber gets old & inflexible (like me on a not so good day!), and instead of pulling away from the nozzle as the float drops, it sits close to the nozzle where it can resonate with the water flow, usually as the valve starts to close. Costs a few pennies to fix, plus the pain of getting at it, cleaning the limescale off and undoing it. My cold tank had a phase of this a couple of years ago.
  6. There is good reason for the extreme pressure. Common rail diesels are more powerful (for a given capacity), more efficient, and have lower emissions than the older DI or Indirect types. The high pressure makes it possible to use a very tiny, fast acting, electronically driven solenoid or Piezo valve, which in turn makes multiple injection pulses per firing cycle possible. This controls peak temperature, and controls the rate of pressure build up in the combustion chamber. High pressure and a smaller nozzle create smaller oil droplets, which burn faster & cleaner than the bigger droplets of older engines. A quieter, smoother drive, less damage to the wallet, and less damage to the rest of the planet is the result if all goes well. Sadly, sometimes all does not go so well!
  7. A filter after the HP pump would have to be immensely strong, built of 25mm thick solid steel or something. So it would be big, heavy, expensive and very difficult to change. Pump failure is quite rare (though the Delphi system on the Mk1 Focus did go through a bad patch quite a few years ago), so it would not really be worth it. Putting some non-user serviceable fine gauze inside the common rail somewhere might be an option I suppose, though there is a risk of it causing more problems than it cures overall.
  8. Yeah, that is all I mean by priming. Once much air gets into the line from filter to pump, you have to push fuel through with a bulb to get enough of the air out, so it will work. I know a bit about pumps & valves & stuff, it is part of my job, but not specifically about the 1.6TDCI except what I have picked up on this site. All these common rail systems are very similar in principle, but there will be detail differences, like which way round the IMV works, as Nick suggested. I have the Seimens/VDO system, the 1.6 has Bosch, the Mk1 Focus 1.8 had Delphi. Take care with the high pressure pipework, 1500Bar is 22,000PSI, a very, very high pressure. Rubber is about a strong as water at that sort of pressure. All the seals will be metal to metal in the HP system. It does start to sound like your engine had a major pump failure, and the debris from this failure can easily damage injectors. They are very sensitive to any dirt, swarf etc.
  9. From my Forscan picture earlier, it looks like the IMV needs to be energised to raise pressure. It makes sense as over-pressure is damaging and maybe even dangerous, so off should be low pressure. The VCV signal is the drive to the IMV, it is high when cranking starts, dropping back as the pressure rises. So 4.5 Bar would be expected if your 1.6 is the same as my 1.8. A return pipe comes from the pump. When the IMV is open (de-energised), all the fuel from the rather feeble 1st stage of the pump is dumped into the return system. As the IMV closes, progressively more fuel is pushed into the very powerful 2nd stage, and on to the rail & engine. A priming pump can push fuel through the 1st stage into the return system. The rather feeble and leaky nature of this part of the pump is one reason why these pumps will not suck air, they have to be primed with fuel to work. 1ml of fuel in 30sec does not sound much. Not what I would call a giant leak. Was that all 4 injectors, and what about the return pipe from the pump? Unless it is leaking somewhere else, like into the cylinders. A damaged injector nozzle could cause that. If the rapid drop in pressure on your graph happened as soon as you stopped cranking, it may point to a leaking injector. I am sure my engine retains far more pressure than that on switch off. I have seen that DPF DTC up lots of times, but not heard of it preventing the engine from starting. It usually just causes a reduced power mode, or puts the warning light on.
  10. It would take some judicious juggling of resistors to get a 200Bar signal. I have not looked at the calibration of the sensor, but I guess that 5v at the signal would be between 1600Bar and 2000Bar. So an extra 100Bar is about an extra 0.3v at the signal. It would test if the low pressure signal is the only thing that is stopping it firing, or if there is something else. On the tow start, I was thinking that you could get say 1000rpm constant-ish, compared to only 200rpm or so when on the starter motor. Again just to test if the pressure goes up. The engine temperature signal can only be the cylinder head sensor (CHT), there is no other suitable one. Intake air temp & fuel temp are the other engine related sensors, but do not seem right for enabling DPF regens. However any error that raises an engine DTC is also likely to prevent regens.
  11. Yes, the injector operation is a bit more complex than most people think! But what I wanted to say was that although the return pipes from the injectors are often called leak-off pipes, this is not a truly correct name. Even with an injector in perfect condition and no leaks, there will be a little pulse of fuel flow on each injector operation. And this flow is what is usually measured with the engine idling in a leak-off test. If the injectors are not operating, either because the pressure is too low for the ECU to energise them, or because they are disconnected, then any flow would be the result of an internal leak. Any leaks like this could prevent the pressure from building up properly at cranking speed. A tow start might be another option. It is not advised to try this if no fuel is getting to the HP pump to lubricate it, but since you do seem to have fuel there, it should be ok. If the higher rpm manages to get the engine started, it would narrow down the problem a bit. Though I have just re-read that it did start but then stall, on easy-start. I don't like doing this to high compression diesel engines, the resulting combustions are entirely uncontrolled, but if the easy start got it up to at least normal idle speed for a couple of seconds, then it still stalled, then it would there is either quite a major leak, or some other, possible electrical fault. A tow start could be done (with care!) for long enough to run Forscan to see if the pressure built up.
  12. I suggest a leak off test next. I doubt if 100Bar is enough to trigger the injectors. The pressure while running varies between about 400Bar and 1500Bar, it really is very high. There must be some fuel getting to the pump, though if there was some air (tiny bubbles) in the fuel, it would have the effect of reducing the pressure. Leakage through the solenoid valves inside the injectors will also reduce the fuel pressure. While cranking there should be almost no leak-off from any injector. When the little valves in each injector operate, they de-pressurise a chamber in the injector, which then opens the pintle that seals off the injector nozzle. The fuel from this chamber goes to the leak-off pipes, so there should be a leak off flow while running, but not while cranking without injector pulses. A worn or damaged valve seat in an injector would cause unwanted leak-off. Hence a leak-off test can identify leaking injectors.
  13. According to Haynes, there is a risk of "flipping" the seals in the master cylinder when pushing back pistons. I suspect this is somewhat apocryphal, it may happen on very rare occasions with some types of brake system. If the pistons are pushed back quickly using a powerful tool, it would be a much bigger risk. I always push them back by hand, maybe with a little leverage from a screwdriver if needed, and slowly. Including back brakes, where I have a tool just to turn the piston to wind it back, but I have to apply the actual push back force, so can not apply too much. I leave the bleed nipples closed to avoid the need to bleed the brakes after every brake service, which I do annually, to clean, grease & de-rust the brakes & disks. There is no significant pressure in the brake lines (unless some drongo hits the brake pedal of course!), so a close fitting plastic cap would work ok. I tried insulating tape once (unplanned operation, done in a hurry!), that failed, I came back to find fluid dripping out onto the drive. Doing things in a hurry always takes longer, I find!
  14. Clamping brake lines has been done for many years, and is a standard method. That said, as an engineer, I feel that squashing a high pressure, steel re-inforced hose completely flat gives me the heebie jeebies! I did it once, using a clamp with well rounded clamp bars, but then bought some adapters that I can use instead. Female brake line unions are quite easy to get & cheap, just need some way to block up the other end. Epoxy resin, body filler, a rubber bung, even just soft plastic, they will all work well enough. Adapters like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pipe-Nut-Fittings-Metric-Imperial-Unf-Copper-Pipe-Brass-Tubing-3-16-M10M12/352693123253?hash=item521e25f8b5:m:mG-A1ySMFY2wGWhc23IWn0w (M10 is the most common size, but check your car first) You would need to lose a fair bit of fluid before appreciable vacuum built up in the reservoir to stop further loss. One bit of advice: Check you can undo the bleed nipples before re-fitting the calipers. Undoing corroded in bleed nipples on a work bench, in a vice, gives a smaller chance of snapping them off than fiddling about in an awkward position under the car. A tee bar wrench is best, to put a pure torque onto a stuck fitting, with no side force. Plus time and persistence, as opposed to brute force and blind optimism! When you say a Dremel tool, I assume you mean just a wire brush, not a grinding disk or burr. Calipers are a very highly stressed part, and you don't want to be removing anything more than light surface corrosion.
  15. Common rail diesel needs about 200Bar in the rail before the injectors will even try to operate. Forscan run on starting my 1.8 (with no problems, just for info). But the 1.6TDCI is similar, I am fairly sure I have seen some data somewhere. At 6.5 Bar, it does sound to me like a fuel supply problem. Most problems are in the line from tank to pump, including the fuel filter. I would kind of expect a low pressure DTC, but I know the ECU software is not great at registering DTCs before the engine actually starts. However, 7.4v on the crank sensor definitely sounds wrong. May be an open circuit, and some floating voltage. Try back-probing the pin with the sensor plugged in. The ECU also needs about 200 rpm to fire up the injectors, so the crank sensor would also stop them operating. If it cranks ok, with no odd displays or lights on the cluster, and the diagnostic system connects ok, then I doubt if you have a CAN bus problem, nor the classic 2006 Focus Cluster problem. Symptoms are completely different.