Tdci-Peter

True Ford Enthusiast
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Tdci-Peter last won the day on January 28

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About Tdci-Peter

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Peter
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    1.8 TDCI Mk2 Focus
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Dorset
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. That must have been a really lovely way to end a Holiday!
  2. Post deleted, mis-read original!
  3. The gauges are driven by little stepper motors. When the ignition is turned on, they go back a bit, usually to hit the end stop. then up to the zero or normal setting. I noticed when playing with my IC that if for some reason they are too high when the ignition goes off, then it can take several ignition cycles to get them back to normal. If too high, they are not driven back far enough to hit the end stop, and only go back by a little on each cycle. Maybe some odd glitch drove them up to high, and they will return in a few cycles. Otherwise it does sound like an IC fault as Tom suggests, but rather an odd one. The speedo & rpm gauges use just the same system, and the fuel gauge input data is hard-wired to the IC, while the other 3 gauges info comes from the HS_CAN bus. But 2006 was a bad year for the Focus IC!
  4. The 2006 Focus IC is really notorious for electrical problems, usually just the soldering between the pcb and the main connector. The indicators are controlled by the BCM, which is built in to the passenger fusebox. The control stalks are not connected to the IC at all. But the dash indication lights are part of the IC. The IC gets information about the indicators over the MS-CAN bus. The MS-CAN bus also goes to the radio. So it is possible that the wiring fault on the IC connector could be the cause. The MS-CAN bus is terminated inside the IC, and all communication over it can be corrupted if the connections to the IC are bad. I had problems with the HS-CAN bus (from the ECU & engine) to the IC. I did a little pdf about it: https://www.fordownersclub.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=40491
  5. On my Mk2, the ESP disable switch does not latch. You have to press it for a couple of seconds to disable it, then it will always re-enable on the next ignition on cycle. I am sure the Mk1 will be similar, so there is no permanent disable.
  6. Same as Isetta, definitely not injectors, nor Aux belt. If the alternator stops turning, the battery will power the car, and can do so for hours in normal driving. It has to be a major wiring connection, like the feed from the battery to the main fusebox, or one of the main earth connections.
  7. A MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor cannot really stick, there are no moving parts. The diaphragm in it just deflects by a tiny amount, which creates an electrical signal at the terminals of the device. It is possible the problem was in the connector to the MAP, or its pressure sensing port could have been blocked with solid oily deposits. Without knowing what the original error code was, and what codes, if any, are being set now, it is very hard to say much about what the fault can be. If you are still getting MAP related error codes, then it would be worth replacing it. They are one of the cheaper parts that might be the problem.
  8. With comms errors like that, that have no symptoms or warning lights linked to them, all you can do is note them down, clear and ignore. Most likely is is a side effect of either the pcm detecting the turbo error, or even the actions of the diagnostic system (Forscan & ELM) as it uses the bus to extract data. If some ABS related fault does develop later, and you can see an increasing trail of comms errors leading up to it, then it might help in diagnosing the fault, but that is not likely, just a general possibility. With the over limit turbo error, 0.5% sounds a bit small to generate a DTC, car systems are usually a bit more error tolerant than that. Also there is normally a gradual learning process all the time, within limits. So it might adjust to the new movement if the cleaner has freed off a sticky actuator. There are also options in Forscan to reset adaptions, that can speed up learning, and service procedures to learn limits for replaced items like EGRs, Turbos etc. Though I think you need full Windows Forscan to use service procedures. I have not seen or tested this actuator, so can not tell if there is some critical manual adjustment. This sort of adjustment was very common on older cars, ever set up a Twin SU Carb system? But it is a thing of the past now really, cars are slapped together quickly, and software is used to make all the adjustments needed for tolerances.
  9. I doubt if the actuator piston rod should rest on a stop at either end. More likely the stops are in the turbo, so the rotating crank should stop with some movement left in the piston rod. That makes assembly less critical, reducing tolerance stack-up. A simple vacuum piston / diaphragm operated arm should be fairly easy to move by hand, or even finger if awkward to reach, when no vacuum is applied, against its spring. I saw no movement in the video, but that may be expected at idle.
  10. That sounds the most likely thing. The lack of DPF error codes and 0km since regen would stack up with that. It is possible the DPF DP sensor is not connected, may not even exist. So the reading may just be full range from open circuit wires. I have not seen the EGR_Err PID before, so can not say if that is right. There is a facility in Forscan that gives a little bit of info on each PID, See if that says anything useful. If the EGR has been blanked off, which is common along with DPF delete, then it would quite likely give 100% error, as there would be no flow when the ECU expects it.
  11. That DP_DPF figure looks extremely high. I would expect just a few kPa at idle. If it is right, then it would be affecting Turbo performance badly. But I would have thought it would be raising DPF error codes too!
  12. Sounds like a problem with the solenoid or starter pinion to me. Both of these are parts of the starter motor. When you press start, the solenoid first pushes the pinion out so it engages with the teeth on the flywheel, then the solenoid electrical contact makes which energises the stater motor, turns the pinion, turns the flywheel, and starts the car. If the solenoid is sticking, or if the pinion is jammed on its shaft or badly worn, it will not engage properly with the flywheel, and can make a loud, nasty, screeching noise. A DIY mechanic would remove the starter, clean, oil and test it. Which might get it working. A garage would just replace it. Not cheap, but not cripplingly expensive. About £200 I would guess.
  13. You have to be a bit careful with multimeter readings. On open circuit or very bad connection lines the meter can still give a good reading, as it draws very little current (typ 10M ohm input resistance). So like Tom says, the power may not be getting through. You need to test the circuits, including ground, with the radio connected and on, so it is drawing current. This may be easier said than done, but sharp pins can help, by penetrating the wire insulation.
  14. P132B seems to be either Turbo position sensor error, or boost performance error. Since the 1.6TDCI does not usually have a turbo position sensor, it is more likely to be the more general performance error. I would suggest first area to investigate is the vacuum solenoid that controls the turbo, or the piping to & from it. This solenoid valve is normally located down the back of the engine. Failures are quite common. After solenoid, the next suspect would be the MAP (boost pressure) sensor. You can confirm if the turbo has a position sensor by the presence of a 3 wire electrical connector to the turbo actuator. Usually there is just the vacuum pipe from the solenoid.
  15. Funny you should say that, it triggered a faint memory, and yes, someone else got readings of about -150mV to +150mV from a 2l Mondeo. S-Max is virtually the same. We worked out that there is a software error, either in the car or in Forscan, that offsets this signal so it seems to jump about. I re-proceesed his data to reconstruct the signal a bit, and it made a lot more sense. Basically that odd, jumpy signal seems to be normal for this car, it is not the actuator, just software. Making sense of it is possible, but hard work. One to test here is ACT (Air Charge Temperature). IAT2 is another name for this sensor. If that reads wrong, then the calculated air flow will be wrong, and will not agree with the MAF reading, which you are seeing. See if you can get IAT2 readings to appear in Forscan. Also, as with all these DTCs, keep testing to see if a pattern emerges, with certain codes reliably appearing under certain conditions. For the funny Turbo data, See: We never really got anywhere with the underlying problem in that thread, though. It went from Turbo to wiring & alternator problems, then as other things were going wrong with the car, Darren P.Exed it for a Focus or something.