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Tdci-Peter

True Ford Enthusiast
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Tdci-Peter last won the day on January 11 2020

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About Tdci-Peter

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Peter
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    1.8 TDCI Mk2 Focus
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Dorset
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. 90kPa is a little low at any time. There is no intake throttle at all on my Focus, but I have just remembered that there is one on your van. Is it fully open ok? About 100kPa is normal atmospheric, though it varies a little with altitude and weather conditions. 90kPa is 900MBar, which would be a rather low pressure unless you are in the Alps or similar! Assuming this throttle valve stays open, then the MAP reading should increase as the turbo spins up. Revving the engine in neutral should have some effect, 3000 rpm will spin the turbo up a fair bit even if the vanes stay in the off positi
  2. I doubt if Kevin will answer, the site says he never returned after making the original post. May never have read the replies! The first check is whether the car actually has a brake fluid sensor or not. The wires and connector to it should be visible. One possibility is a software glitch in the BCM (passenger fuse box). If the car does have this sensor, then a bad connection in the wiring to it is another possibility.
  3. I am no expert on this. Some things I know a lot about (pressure, flow, electronics and a few other things), on many things I am pretty dumb! My first thoughts would be poor compression in the engine, or a worn out 1st stage in the diesel pump. A clapped out pump would make it hard to get enough pressure in the rail at cranking speed, but would have little effect once started. I don't see a cranking speed fuel rail pressure for the van, I guess it will need forscan to get that. Poor compression (leaky valves or piston rings) would make it hard to start (a diesel relies on high c
  4. Sounds reasonable to me. I would not expect much higher with no load on the engine. It is power that matters for fuel use, not rpm. My car was accelerating under full throttle to get the extended bit of full pressure on the rail. You download Forscan direct from: http://forscan.org/download.html It is not a commercial programme, and not usually available via anyone else, and probably not to be trusted if it is! You won't need the extended license for diagnostics, that is for PATS (programming the immobiser for new keys etc) and for some other complex procedures. I have had no
  5. I am guessing FRPD is the desired Fuel Rail Pressure set by the ECU. It certainly looks like there is no response from the pump at all.
  6. Forscan data from starting my car. It fired up at 200rpm & 200Bar (20,000kPa). Forscan data from a run on my car: As you can see, the fuel pressure (FRP) varies a lot. From 300bar to 1500bar (30,000kPa to 150,000kPa). It more or less follows the accelerator pedal (APP trace) .It will not get so high just revving in neutral, it only goes up to max pressure near full power. VSS is vehicle speed. (Obviously there is an error in the Forscan calibration here, 139km/h would be 86mph, certainly an incorrect reading, ) The MAP trace (Mainifold pressure) shows when
  7. If you are in the mood for an amusing story, google the waxoyled cat, or: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1666628 A little more seriously, the only tips I have on bleeding are to try to do all the work before (tank side of) the fuel filter, so there is no chance of pushing dirt into the pump or injectors, and to apply pressure (as much as you can with a bulb or simple hand pump), preferably while cranking. I messed up my last filter change this summer, and only by borrowing a neighbour to turn the key while I pumped fuel into the filter & pump, did I manage t
  8. Looking at the parts lists, both the crank sensor and the crankshaft timing pulley were changed during the 1st year or so of production on the DV6C engine. It seems likely that if one needs changing, then so will the other https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/52/no/17/1553/15431/67113/#6306. Forscan can record stuff like RPM (which comes from the crankshaft sensor), fuel rail pressure etc while cranking. It could give some clue as to whether the RPM signal is working at all, or not.
  9. I can't help with parts really. Try this site, it lists several options for vacuum lines: https://ford.7zap.com/en/transport/121/no/0/2433/18939/97085/#2420 I just put "ford 1438226" into Ebay & got one example of the pipes. But it may take a lot of searching to find cheaper 2nd hand items.
  10. I would not put any permanent repair on it for quite a while. Maybe some waxoyl or similar soft waxy protection, but keep using rust convertor (I just use phosphoric acid) until all the rust is stabilsed fully. Any permanent rigid repair will just peel off in time if put on too soon. I would wait for warmer, dry weather before any proper repair.
  11. I would test if the pressure was building up before the coolant got fully hot. Release any pressure before a cold or cool start, Start and drive a few miles to start warming it up, until the heater is just starting to get delectably warm, say, then stop, feel the hoses and carefully release the cap. If it has built up appreciable pressure in that time, then it is most likely to be combustion gasses getting into the water from the cylinders, that is about the only source of pressure before the water gets hot. That would then suggest a head leak, though they are not common in this engine. G
  12. I used the 8mm version for my Focus. Being the same engine I expect it will be the same size of pipe on the connect, but Ford are rather prone to changing things for mysterious reasons! For info in:
  13. It can not be the belt. If that was slipping more then just the smallest bit, there would be smoke and a smell of burning rubber. A lot of energy passes through that belt. A wrong belt can not make the alternator turn slower without slip, and consequent friction heating. It will not be the starter motor. If the van starts ok, it is not likely to be the battery. So that leaves the alternator, the wiring and the electronic control units. I would start by checking the main earth & power wiring connections, then having the alternator (and its pulley) fully tested. As you say, it should be an u
  14. Ford don't spend any money on extra sensors if they can help it! The result is that it is very hard to determine which sensor or valve is at fault if one goes wrong. In normal running, the MAF measures the intake air into the manifold. But the gas going into the actual engine is the sum of the MAF flow plus the EGR flow. This total.gas through the engine is calculated by the ECU from the MAP (Manifold pressure), the intake air temperature (IAT) and the rpm. Basically a piston engine is a fixed displacement engine, so about half the engine cc in volume goes through every rev, a frig factor
  15. I would ask if that includes the timing check. The book procedure is to pull off the camshaft pulley, accurately locate the crankshaft & camshaft with jigs, then tighten the camshaft pulley with the engine accurately set. This is a lot of extra work, and several special tools, especially as access to the crankshaft timing point means moving the ac compressor and removing the alternator pulley, neither being easy jobs. I did not have this check done, it is easy to slip the top belt off and a new one on without moving anything. The belts are pretty consistent, within normal limits of we
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