Tdci-Peter

True Ford Enthusiast
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Tdci-Peter last won the day on January 11

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About Tdci-Peter

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Peter
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    1.8 TDCI Mk2 Focus
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Dorset
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. If master cylinder and reservoir problems have been ruled out, that leaves few options. There is only one pipe from master to slave (at least so I believe), so if fluid is not leaking from the slave end, it must be being pushed back into the reservoir. If there is some odd fault in the clutch actuating system, that gradually pushes back the slave piston much further than normal, then when you press the pedal, it will go straight down, quite possibly several times until the slave piston has been pushed back to its normal operating position. This is most likely to happen over a longish distance without any clutch actuations, maybe with heat to help reduce friction in the slave cylinder, So a mechanical, dirt or wear related fault inside the clutch could well be the cause.
  2. Yet another failure mode for this unit!! It really is not up to the job, partly due to its location: hot with huge vibration. I put a guide to removal and inspection of the unit, with photos, on here: As well as the pdf link a couple of posts back up on this thread. It is a common fault on this otherwise rather reliable engine.
  3. There is another quite long thread on the same car, with I suspect the same underlying problem: It was a wiring loom or connector related problem, at least partially solved (enough to get to Luxembourg & back!) by some additional wiring to bypass the fault.
  4. No PCV as such, there is some sort of valve thingy in the cam cover that the blow-by gas goes through, I have not been able to verify if it does anything on my car, it just seems always open. Since the outlet from it goes to the turbo intake, there will be very little suction there, only that due to the air filter and intake ducting. Blockages in the air filter or intake ducting could increase suction in the crankcase, increase blow-by, and increase the oil that goes into the engine intake. That would cause smoke with that nasty burnt oil smell. The ventilation system on the 1.8TDCI is quite easy to get at and check or clean. There is a hose from the centre of the cam cover, that I think joins up with another vent hose from the crankcase, they then go into the oil separator near & under the fuel filter. A hose from the bottom of the oil separator returns most of the oil to the sump. The third hose from the top of the separator goes the the valve thingy in the cam cover, under the circular lid feature on it. This then goes down to the turbo intake, joining the main air intake there. The separator is held on by one bolt to the end of the engine. But problems with this system are rare. I am not sure about the engine compression bit. If it is poor, then that sounds like bad news, damaged valves or rings. But compression on a diesel is much harder to measure properly than on a petrol. Access is hard, the glowplugs are much more awkward to get at than most spark plugs. The pressure is much higher, and peaks for a shorter time. It will also be very sensitive to added volume, replacing a glowplug with an adapter and gauge will add a lot of volume relative to the normal volume at TDC, giving a reduced pressure reading. Also adapter leaks will have a much greater effect due to the small volume and high pressure. The alternative of applying pressure to measure leakage (leakdown test) requires practical knowledge of how much leakage to expect for a given engine and known pressure. It does not relate directly to compression ratio. It can identify differences between cylinders on one engine though. One simple cause of smoke and reduced power would be bad leaks in the intercooler pipework. That is all the hoses from turbo compressor outlet, via intercooler, to the inlet manifold. There are 4 rubber hoses and 2 metal pipes in this system. Leaks here would usually be audible in the cabin as hissing under power, though.
  5. Fuse 46 in the older fusebox is fuse F107 in the later boxes. The usual cause for this display staying on is not the instrument cluster itself, more likely it is some optional goody like the radio or bluetooth interface that is keeping the cluster awake. Many radios need to have a code entered if they lose power, eg while changing a battery. If you do not have the code, there are loads of websites offering to provide the code if you have info like the model & serial no. I have not verified any myself, but I know others have used this facility.
  6. My car judders badly going up steep hills in lower gears, when the road is poor and bumpy. It can really shake, but definitely linked to bumps or variations in the road surface. On a good surface, or in 4th or 5th gear, it is fine at full throttle. This road dependant judder could be an over-active ABS (or ESP), over compensating for a bit of wheelspin on a bump, or it could be a worn front suspension bush, most likely the wishbone. It has always done it a bit, but does seem to be getting slightly more prone to it. I cure it by easing off on the throttle a bit on surfaces I know are poor. If the judder happens in all gears, or on perfect road surfaces, then injectors, DMF & engine mounts are a few items that spring to my mind.
  7. First check is for any unusual dash displays or lights, especially the immobiliser LED. This should flash once then go out when the ignition is turned on. If it keeps flashing, it is immobilised. Relays never blow up without good reason, and rarely fail without some external cause, like a short circuit. So my second area to look at would be the starter motor and the solenoid mounted on it. If the battery was replaced due to difficulty in starting, then it is quite possible the starter was the problem all along.
  8. The price of engine oil! Someone somewhere must be raking in the money. In December 2018, I bought 10l of Formula F for £38. Now the best I can find is £55 for the same. Neither inflation nor the price of crude oil (which must provide most of the chemicals used to make synthetic oils) anywhere near justify this. Is it one one those nasty, underhand stealth taxation rackets?
  9. The fault mode software on many cars is very poorly tested, and hence full of bugs. In theory a DTC will always be raised and stored when any fault indication appears, it is all handled in the ECU software. The DTC should remain for several ignition cycles at least. But there a quite a lot of reports about DTCs that vanish as soon as the light goes out, or soon after. It looks like that is the case here. So catching the fault red-handed, so to speak, would be the way, which does mean having a powerful diagnostic system like Forscan to hand at all times. Not very convenient, but better than nothing. There are very few faults that Forscan will miss. For most practical purposes when reading codes, it is as good as the Ford IDS system. Most generic OBD scanners are useless at dealing with odd faults like this.
  10. That is quite a big chunk of power. People worry about small loads like TVs, computers, low energy lighting etc, quite a lot, but they really don't add up to much. I use 10 to 12 units (kWh) per day, summer and winter. That is for 2 old computers (one on 24/7), TV, various electrical test equipment, fridge-freezer, oven, CH pump, lighting, etc etc, And the house is occupied 24/7 for at least 51 weeks a year! It is an old, poorly insulated house also. All my heating is gas (or wood), both water and CH, and the hob is gas. So it is really only room heating and water heating that consumes large amounts of power. A thermostatic electric radiator or fan heater can easily clock up 20 units a day. I am glad I have gas, electricity is now over 4 times the price of gas, 4.8 times to be exact on my tariff (Bulb Energy). The price of electricity is rising fast, I suspect heavily subsidised solar installations have something to do with this. My gas use is massive, over 80kWh per day in Winter, about 18,000 kWh per year. But it still only costs about the same per year as my electric.
  11. I am assuming it is 2l TDCI. The only engine temperature sensor is the CHT sensor mounted in the thermostat housing. It sends a signal direct to the ECU. Its value can be read with most decent diagnostic systems like Forscan or Torque, and the gauge on the cluster is controlled by this reading, though there is some question about whether the reading here is mucked about with by the software in some way. Test if the fan turns on (low speed) with the A/C on. If not, then a fault in the fan motor/driver unit is likely, or a broken wire or bad connection to it. The fan module is an electronic unit with motor built in. It has 3 wires to it: ground, 12v from a relay & fuse in the engine bay fusebox (R14, F1), and a control wire from the ECU which I assume is PWM for variable speed control. So check it is getting power & ground ok, and then maybe if there is some sort of signal on the line from the ECU.
  12. Great video. Over the years I have learnt to use all those tips, though it took quite a few years to appreciate some of them! It undermines the whole principle of adaptive cruise control, the weak software in that will not be looking ahead in anything like the same way as in the video. Plus all the important facts about driving too close. When you see a video like that, sitting at a desk, you can really see that even at 30, potential trouble can approach very quickly, and there are so many things to watch out for. Vehicles pulling out, pedestrians stumbling into the road, stationary traffic round a bend just as three examples. I would like to add a couple of tiny points that struck me. When he said concentrate 60% of the time, he did not mean 60% of the journey, with long periods fiddling with CDs, programming the sat nav or dealing with complex phone calls. He meant 60% of every single second, or less. If something needs eyes & mind off the road for more than a second, you need to plan ahead very carefully, or just don't do it. The point about stress is a very good one. When he said, ok, everyone suffers from stress, he could have emphasised more how emergency service drivers have to deal with this. You know someone might be bleeding to death, or a worsening situation may lead to death & serious injury, but when driving, forget this. Concentrate on driving to the best of your ability, using your training and experience, regardless of the desperate urgency. If a trained driver can do this in a life and death situation, ordinary people like me should be able to do it if we are a bit late for work, school or some other appointment. But very often we don't.
  13. You could have a look through this thread: Some of the photos have been partly spoiled by that wretched photobucket rubbish. And it is quite long with lots of discussion. There are at least two sorts of linkage, the bowden cable and the solid bar. The bowden cable type is the most common. There are also several different failure modes, so some of the tricks only work on one type of failure. But it is a very common problem on this model of car.
  14. Most likely to be the rubber diaphragm washer in the ball valve. The rubber gets old & inflexible (like me on a not so good day!), and instead of pulling away from the nozzle as the float drops, it sits close to the nozzle where it can resonate with the water flow, usually as the valve starts to close. Costs a few pennies to fix, plus the pain of getting at it, cleaning the limescale off and undoing it. My cold tank had a phase of this a couple of years ago.
  15. There is good reason for the extreme pressure. Common rail diesels are more powerful (for a given capacity), more efficient, and have lower emissions than the older DI or Indirect types. The high pressure makes it possible to use a very tiny, fast acting, electronically driven solenoid or Piezo valve, which in turn makes multiple injection pulses per firing cycle possible. This controls peak temperature, and controls the rate of pressure build up in the combustion chamber. High pressure and a smaller nozzle create smaller oil droplets, which burn faster & cleaner than the bigger droplets of older engines. A quieter, smoother drive, less damage to the wallet, and less damage to the rest of the planet is the result if all goes well. Sadly, sometimes all does not go so well!