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Tdci-Peter last won the day on January 28

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About Tdci-Peter

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    1.8 TDCI Mk2 Focus
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  1. On an LHD car, I assume the passenger fuse box is on the right. C113 should also be on the right. But maybe it is further forward into the fascia area than on a RHD car. It would be easy enough to get to the FACM, and cut the HS-CAN bus wires there (but don't mix it up with the MS-CAN, which has the same colour codes!). However the ABS is a bit difficult to reach, and the engine bay looms are better protected and fixed. If you could locate the bus near the EHPAS, under the right hand headlamp, and identify the pair coming from the ABS, it would be possible to re-route the signals there. It would result in a rather long spur to the ABS, so is not ideal, But from most evidence, CAN is not as sensitive to spur length as most faster buses. Someone else had a similar problem and decided to re-wire almost all of the CAN bus, though it seems to have only partially worked.
  2. I don't know what DIAG sw is, but it has really narrowed down the problem for you, pointing almost directly at the cause. It must be reading both the MS-CAN and HS-CAN buses, as RCM, ACM and GEM are on the MS-CAN bus (from IC to GEM). FACM is on the HS-CAN bus, but it is on the IC side of C113. The order of modules and connectors on the HS-CAN bus is: IC, DLC, C112, FACM, C113, ABS, EHPAS, C90, (TCM if Auto gearbox), ECU. So the HS-CAN bus is clearly broken between FACM and ABS, since the diagnostic unit connected at the DLC can not locate ABS, EHPAS or ECU. That would stack up with the 120ohms. If you unplug the IC at its main plug on the pcb, the resistance reading should rise to a high value. C113, the higher of the 3 connectors by the passenger door is an obvious possibility. If not there, it will be in the wiring between FACM (under the rear seat), and the ABS. Testing from pins 17 & 18 on both sides of C113 will narrow it down further to one side or the other of C113.
  3. Possibly until the next MoT. The MIL (main malfunction indicator lamp) is an MoT fail on cars first used after 2008. The MoT also specifically looks for evidence of opened up or modified DPFs. But no dismantling is allowed. If the modification is invisible and the car passes the basic smoke test, and the MIL is off (but comes on for the ignition on prove out), then it should pass the MoT. It is still against regulations, and possibly illegal, to remove or gut a DPF! The wording is: "You only need to check components that are visible and identifiable, such as diesel oxidation catalysts, diesel particulate filters, exhaust gas recirculation valves and selective catalytic reduction valves. If a diesel particulate filter has clearly been cut open and rewelded, you should reject it unless the vehicle presenter can show evidence that there was a valid reason to cut it open, such as for filter cleaning." So it is ok to remove the element for cleaning, but you would need evidence. I think that some cleaning techniques, such as ultrasonic cleaning after removal of the DPF, and possibly removal of the element, are quite effective. But not cheap! Cheap quick fix solutions are useless. Any snake oil based treatments will do no good at all if ash is the problem. To get ash out, it must be removed back the way it came in (reverse flush), it can not be dissolved, burnt or forced through the filter. Have a good scan through the list of PIDs in Forscan, km to ashfull and km or time since regen, are ones I recall seeing on some 1.6s, but probably the additive type. It should be possible to get a clear picture of if and when the car is doing a regen from some of that data, including exhaust temp and throttle valve as suggested by Tizer. Logging 8 to 12 PIDs should be fine, 12 gets a bit crowded on the display, many more would be unreadable and it might overload the bus if you selected loads of them. If it is starting frequent regens then soot or ash is the problem, most likely ash. If is not doing that, then we need to look for other underlying causes that are preventing them. It is no good getting a new DPF if there is some other problem. I think we decided earlier that your car was the cDPF sort, not the Eolys additive type. If it was the Eolys type, there should be a FACM module listed by Forscan, and it is not there in your logs.
  4. It is unlikely to be linked in any way to the original post, there are many, many reasons for the acceleration reduced message. I would not really advise ignoring it. A system like Forscan will provide some sort of clue as to the cause. See the links in June 29, 2016 in this thread, above here.
  5. No, it is a very different engine. I think key recognised means that it does contain a working PATS capsule, but if it will not start, and with it reporting less than two keys programmed, neither are accepted as valid programmed keys for the car. That stacks up for a mismatched ECU & IC. I am not sure if it is now connecting to Forscan, or if all the codes were read from the IC via the secret menu. 9213 is the IC version of P1900, e510 is U2510, etc. Before trying to change the ECU, is it certain that all other causes of a fail to connect have been ruled out? The ECU will need to be from the same engine type, and similar year.
  6. I uploaded the current copies, as I had them on my hard disk from just before the links expired. Super Mod Clive (stoney871) updated the links, but it can be confusing as to which is the working one. I have to test them sometimes.
  7. When I went from a 2l petrol Vauxhall () to my 1.8TDCI Focus in 2011, I was expected a drop in power, as that is what the spec. said. But the useful and available power from the 1.8 is so much greater. I was amazed, and still am at times. I had to drop two cogs on the Vauxhall to get it to go from cruising to decent acceleration, on the Focus I just open the throttle. No fuss, no noise, it just goes! And I just got 56mpg on a rather slow and traffic infested run from Dorset up to South Derbyshire and around the area. Speed variations from 70+ to 0, stop - go driving, etc, is not a recipe for economy, but it was the best economy I have had. Measured by filling station fuel meters, not fancy software guesswork!. That is on a 13 year old car, newer cars should be even better.
  8. It really is just a connector. It gets +12v from F107 in the PJB (Passenger fusebox) to pin 16. Earths are on pins 4 & 5. The HS-CAN bus is on pins 6 and 14 (that is the bus that goes from IC to ECU). The MS-CAN bus is on pins 3 and 11 (that is the bus that goes from IC to BCM, aka GEM or PJB). That is all there is to it. The +12 is used by adapters to power them up, and all diagnostics take place over the HS-CAN bus (mostly) or the MS-CAN bus (Ford specific systems only). Note: A CAN bus is physically just a twisted pair of wires that runs from one terminus to another terminus via a number of intermediate "bus stops". The clever stuff is in the modules connected to it. But the DLC has no electronics, just the connector.
  9. First off, I have to confess an error . I mentioned a water in oil sensor, but on re-reading the diagram, it says water in fuel. I misread it! So if there is no oil quality sensor, the P253F must be a pure guess made by the ECU based on other information. So it is not a primary symptom, it can only be secondary. It may be based on regen attempts, or some related computation. At the moment, it looks like the primary symptom is the high DP over the DPF, which could be ash, DPF damage, or soot. The ECU can not know, as Tom said above, it is another guess made by the ECU. The DPF Doctor may have done a forced regen, but now you can do one, and directly compare DP results before and after. If the O2 sensor or EGR DTCs do not re-appear soon, I suggest doing the forced regen, to see first if it starts and completes, and then if it changes the DP readings. Be warned, it is very noisy! If it fails, then hopefully there may be some message about why. If it completes with little or no reduction in DP, then either the DPF is knackered (damaged or full of un-burnable ash), or the sensor is faulty, despite my feelings. it is a bit frustrating for me, I am sitting right now in an office / workshop with full pressure calibration facilities, so I would obviously test the sensor calibration before doing anything else, but it is not so easy for others! However from the mileage and the DP readings posted, I would guess DPF problems are more likely than sensor problems, sadly. If the regen produces a useful improvement, then monitoring Forscan will tell you if a normal active regen is attempted later, and if it worked. If it is soot, then a cDPF should be able to clear the soot load over a few regens. If it is ash, it will not improve much. At slight risk of embarrassing Tom, here is his video of a Forced Regen: Regarding contact cleaner, it is unlikely to do any harm by trying. Simply unplugging and re-connecting can temporarily cure a bad contact. But there are a lot of connectors to choose from, not all are easily accessible, and the symptoms here seem too consistent to be connector problems. It is hard to explain the consistently high DP readings by a poor connector.
  10. 120 ohms reading can be an IC error, or wiring to ECU, or the ECU itself. To test, remove C90 (in the engine bay fuse box), and re-measure the resistance. If it stays 120, then the IC is ok, and the fault is somewhere between the DLC (OBD connector) and the ECU. If resistance jumps up to a much higher value, then the fault is in the IC, or the wiring between the DLC and the IC. PATS code 15 is incorrect key, and because if you swap the IC but not the ECU, they are no longer matched, I suspect this error will occur with any key, old or new. The £16 or so for the ELM327 is likely to be a good investment anyway for any Ford owner, and it can be used (with other software) on many other cars too, the ELM is a universal automotive bus interface. It is just possible that another OBD interface may be more sensitive to needing the 60ohm value of a properly terminated bus. I found from experience that my ELM and Forscan would work if one termination resistor was missing (so read 120 ohms), though in my case it was the IC end that was broken and the ECU end was ok. Termination resistors are used at each end of a digital electronic bus to prevent echoes. The digital signals can bounce up and down the bus, interfering with later data and causing data errors if it is not properly terminated at both ends. The resistor absorbs the signal when it gets to the end of the line, so it does not bounce back. However CAN is relatively slow (960 times slower than USB2 for example!), so in many cases the bus will work to some extent with a missing termination.
  11. The P1632 is an odd one, may be something to do with the charging system. Forscan may have said something about it. The Euro5 1.6s do have a lambda (O2) sensor. It is possible this is the primary fault. The regen system will not work, and no regens will take place, if there is an existing error like that. Then soot would build up, leading to the P2463 error. That is just a possible scenario, but it does link them together. P253F is oil quality. The 1.6 sometimes has a water in oil sensor, probably just a simple conductivity thing. Oddly, it is shown on the Euro stage 4 drawing, but not the stage 5 drawing. But these things do seem to vary quite a lot. Whether oil dilution by diesel (from failed regen attempts) could cause this error, I don't know. Diesel is not conductive, so my guess is no. And there is no evidence that it is trying to regen and failing. P0490 is EGR valve, and again if this was persistently faulty, it would prevent regens. So clearing codes, and re-scanning often (before a start, seconds after a start, during warm-up, etc) may help show which codes come back first, so pointing (hopefully!) a finger at the primary fault. Multiple fault indications like this are quite common with this engine, and it is not easy to judge what is cause, and what is effect. I have only glanced briefly at the data logs, but my immediate instinct says there is no fault with the DP sensor. It seems to track the air flow rate (MAF) very nicely. Reads low when it should, and high when expected. It is reading too high for a good, clean DPF, but that would be correct if the DPF is partially blocked. Most common sensor faults are an offset or wandering zero, non-linearity, or slow or hysteretic response. A simple linear scaling error is not a common failure mode.
  12. It may not be easy to get to the ECU connectors, they are usually held in by a headless security bolt that has to be drilled or ground out! There are 3 12v supplies to the ECU: Battery direct from the 3A fuse F30 (EJB), via C90 pin 13 to ECU C417 pin G4 Main 12v from relay R6 via F36 (EJB), via C90 pin 41 to ECU C419 pins K1, K2 and J1. Ignition supply from F138 (PJB), via C90 pin 37 to ECU C418 pin C3. There is a line from the ECU to energise relay R6, which must be pulled to ground to turn on the main 12v (above). This is on ECU C418 pin c3. Note: EJB is Engine bay fusebox, PJB is Passenger fusebox. C90 is the big connector in the EJB. There is pinout of C90 in this thread, above. Also there is a link to the full schematic (it is 130+ pages, and very detailed). Also there are links to obtain an ELM327 and download Forscan. Link here back to C90 pinout: Pinouts for C417, C418 & C419 below. I am not sure why the ECU would buzz, it is mostly solid state. There may be some little pcb mounting relays on it though.
  13. Bad connections can get worse more rapidly with lack of use. No vibration, and condensation can build up and remain due to less ventilation. I assume you have checked the battery. Low voltages can cause all sorts of odd problems.
  14. Excess solder will only be a problem if it can short adjacent pins, or create a short to a track. The tracks are protected by solder resist, which is tough stuff, and will usually prevent short circuit to tracks unless you try quite hard! I tested my IC without being in its full casing, and just one needle lightly on the fuel gauge to see if it moved ok. It worked fine like that. Just make sure it can't touch any metal (conductive) surface. Not being able to connect can be a symptom of a wiring fault. The OBD connector (aka DLC) uses exactly the same pair of wires to connect to the ECU as the IC does, ie the HS-CAN bus. It can also be a symptom of a duff OBD2 unit though, of course! I had to reset all DTCs using Forscan before I could get my car working, but I could connect to the ECU at all times. The break was in the IC for me (2006 car), and the OBD remained connected to the ECU. So your problem sounds different, as I somewhat suspected. The resistance test is to look for 60 ohms between the DLC pins 6 & 14. A break in the line will typically make it read 120 ohms. There is a 120ohm terminating resistor at both ends of the bus, one in the IC, one in the ECU.
  15. The IC (cluster) will need re-programming. 2 problems are the odometer (mileage), and the immobiliser (PATS). The ECU and the IC are matched up for PATS, the key codes are effectively stored in both. Forscan on a Windows (or Linux) system can increase odometer readings, but can not decrease them, for security reasons. It can also re-program the PATS codes, but it is a fairly complex process. Changing both the ECU and the IC is not straightforward either, depending on your engine type, there may be some re-programming of the ECU needed (injector codes etc.). The year of the car and engine type are missing here. However before doing anything so drastic, it needs to be confirmed if the fault is in the IC. Most of the internet reports relate to the 2006 IC bad batch, outside this date IC faults are less common than wiring or connector faults. I am not at all clear what the current symptoms are. An IC fault will produce many DTCs, I had loads when mine went. Also the PATS LED will flash out a code if there is an immobiliser problem caused by the faulty IC. Resistance tests on the CAN bus can help determine if there is a fault in the wiring or in the IC.