Tdci-Peter

True Ford Enthusiast
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Tdci-Peter last won the day on January 28

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About Tdci-Peter

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Peter
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    1.8 TDCI Mk2 Focus
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Dorset
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. Tdci-Peter

    Egr wiring tests

    Was this the brass bit you managed to remove: It looks quite well peened in to me, but might come out with the right sort of persuasion, maybe? Did cleaning the inside of the valve cure the problems?
  2. All the engine sensors and actuators connect directly to the PCM / ECU. It gets power direct from the battery. So it only needs vehicle speed (from ABS), PATS authentication & back-up accelerator pedal sensor (from IC), electrical load & A/C commands (From the GEM / BCM / PJB) and a few other non-critical inputs over the CAN bus. It can keep the engine going in a basic, default way, without the CAN bus. The Focus IC is a large pcb, with a single unsupported connector in the middle. I suspect the Mk2a IC is similar there. Vibration will stress the whole pcb, and stress the connector solder joints. The cable loom to the IC should be supported by a clamp near the back of the IC, onto some part of the facsia. Check your loom is adequately supported to minimise the stress the cable puts on the connector, and to damp down vibration. All solder joints are weak when continuously subjected to stress and vibration. It gets quite bad thermal cycling as well from sub-zero nights to direct sun on warm days. And humidity can be high, with condensation, as a result of these temperature swings. So it is in quite a tough location for such a large, important pcb. It is no big surprise that they sometimes give trouble. All you can do is check it is all supported as well as it can be, after checking for cracked or dry solder joints.
  3. Once running, the car can just about continue to work without the CAN bus. The ECU has all the essential information it needs to keep the engine running, The ABS and steering can work in a default independent way, which is an essential safety requirement as the CAN bus can not be regarded as reliable enough for safety critical operations.It certainly sounds like a major CAN bus failure. Have you done the resistance test, 60 ohms across the bus when power is off. It can be done via pins 6 & 14 of the diagnostic connector. It needs to be done when it is in a misbehaving mood. 120 ohms would indicate a break in the bus between ECU & Cluster (PCM & IC in Ford terms). Any water getting in to the footwells? This can accelerate corrosion in the connectors in front of the passenger door that carry the bus.
  4. Tdci-Peter

    Things I Don't Like

    'tis true, I believe. An even better mix is yogurt & sheep dung (!), well mixed. I was asked to use this once on an old stone wall we were restoring round a churchyard. It was to make the new repairs blend in quicker. The sheep were grazing in the field around the church, so it was handy (with gloves on, anyway!) . But this bit of the roof is hardly visible at all from ground level, so I have not tried anything on it.
  5. Tdci-Peter

    Things I Don't Like

    The red tiles were put on in 2013, when I had the roof completely stripped & re-lined with Tyvek type breathable underlay instead of the old felt, which was leaking. The red tiles are the same colour as the other tiles nominally, but about 50 years younger! They are tucked away at the back where they are not normally visible, but are in this photo. He re-used most of the old tiles, but a few could not be re-used. The workmanship done then on the valley was not great, and last summer I was repairing a slipped tile and falling out mortar along the valley. The ladder was secured on a tower scaffold up to the eaves. So it was a little job with quite a lot of work to get up there. It is a very high, steep, roof!
  6. Tdci-Peter

    Things I Don't Like

    The only property ladder I have been up in the last 21 years is the one I use to repair my roof, clean & repair my gutters, clean, paint and repair my windows, etc, etc, etc. 😩, 🙄. Still I can't really complain, at least I have a roof over my head to fix! That's more than some have in this world.
  7. Tdci-Peter

    New member, ongoing problem!

    You could just replace the throttle body and actuator unit, which might be expensive unless you can get a decent used one. But I would want to do some electrical testing first. It could be a wiring or connector problem, or a curable mechanical problem like a wear step. These units look like a simple 12v electric motor, with a position feedback pot. The pot is actually a dual unit, with common supply (TPSVREF) and return (TPSRTN), and two separate outputs (TPSI-P2 & TPSI-P1). So it is relatively easy to test with a meter, a power supply, and a few suitable test leads. I know not everyone has this stuff, but any electrical/electronic repair place should be able to do it. Wiring info for the unit (hope it matches!) below:
  8. Tdci-Peter

    Focus owner, not currently a fan!

    Glowplugs.
  9. Tdci-Peter

    EGR Blanked And Fuel Economy?

    Blanking works better on some engines than others. The EGR is written into the ECU code & mapping. The ECU expects to see a drop in MAF reading when the EGR opens, as less new air should be entering the engine. They all react differently if they do not see this drop. Some put on a warning light, others just power the EGR full open and then make some assumption about the air / exhaust mix. Others may ignore it and assume the EGR is closed. If they think the MAF is reading wrong, they make adjust its internal calibration factors, which might affect the amount of fuel put in at full throttle. On my engine it powered the blanked EGR full open (I have a readout on the dash!), but otherwise took no apparent action. So what works well on one engine may not be so good on another. I don't think the EGR will affect the amount of carbon in the oil, unless it is faulty and making the engine smoke badly (before the DPF at least.) What it can do is add to the carbon that builds up in the inlet manifold and valve passages. Most of this build up is due to engine oil from the crankcase breather system, but this oil can combine with soot in the exhaust to make a tough deposit in the airways. However there is little evidence that this affects the performance of a turbocharged engine appreciably in normal road use. So like you say, it is a matter of try & see. The ECU tuning to achieve those high MPG figures is complex & critical. If the EGR is not faulty, then economics of the fuel cost vs possible ultimate need to clean out the airways is the deciding factor. If the EGR is faulty, then blanking it is a good way to help diagnosis, and a good temporary(ish!) cure.
  10. Tdci-Peter

    Transit alternator issues

    There is a lot of talk about Ford Smart Charge on the 'net, but a lot of it is wrong or misleading. The reason I say that is that it is handled in the ECUs, and these are not usually made by, or directly programmed by, Ford. They usually come as part of the fuel, injection or ignition package from the likes of Bosch, VDO or Delphi. I guess Ford has an overall spec. for the charging algorithms, but they will be interpreted and implemented (or not!) by others. So it is largely guesswork as to the details of voltages, and the way it responds to load and temperature. But there are underlying facts, like the voltage for full charge of any lead-acid battery, including Calcium, Silver, EFB and other variants, will be 14 to 14.8v, usually about 14.4v. The float voltage for charge maintenance will be about 13.6v, and about 12.6v for standby. So 15v or more, unless briefly in very cold conditions maybe, is wrong, And below 12.6v will be actively discharging the battery. If it does not get to well over 14v at sometime in a drive cycle, then it will not get full charge. With the wire disconnected, usually the alternator will revert to internal control like an older unit. The exact voltages will vary depending on manufacturer. But will still be in the lead-acid limits above. 13.5 on idle may be normal, but it should rise to over 14v with a few rpm. You said; " The van now intermittently charges at over 14v then drops to 12.8v and this is when the malfunction lights appear, " in the 1st post. Those voltages sound fairly reasonable, though the over 14v bit should happen reliably in a drive cycle, ideally soon after starting. The bit that is really wrong is the light coming on, the cause of that really needs to be found. Monitoring voltages may give a clue, but DTCs might help more. I am assuming it does not have stop/start or regenerative charging, if it does then there there are added complications like aiming for 80% charge instead of 100% charge. Diagnosing that system is almost impossible, it seems to me!
  11. Tdci-Peter

    EGR Blanked And Fuel Economy?

    This is a different engine (1.8TDCI) but roughly similar effect. I think it is only worth blanking it off if it is misbehaving, and it is not practical to change or repair it. I have been battling with a dodgy EGR since about 2012. Blanking it gave an immediate improvement in driveabiliy. More responsive & no unexpected power dips. Warm up time may have increased a little when blanked, as the EGR cooler helps heat up the water when in use. After repairing it (several times!) I removed the blank, and it was ok for a bit, but then soon played up again. A replacement EGR for the 1.8 was about £800, and a massive job as it is part of the inlet manifold. Last Summer, the price of Chinese EGR actuators for the 1.8 finally dropped to under £50. That is not the whole valve, just the motor & sensor part. I fitted this, and it has performed well. It drives as well as when blanked. At first I was unsure of the economy, it seemed to drop. But I do a lot of hauling heavy trailers up and down hilly roads, so my MPG is a bit variable. When I finally did a decent motorway run over Christmas, I got one of the best MPG figures over the 500 mile trip that I have ever had. So I was well pleased with that.
  12. Tdci-Peter

    Transit alternator issues

    As the alternator seems to be responding to the commands from the ECU via the wire, it suggests the alternator is the right basic type. It is possible there are minor variants (eg software changes) that would give wrong results if the wrong variant is fitted. Or it could be the alternator has been ok all along, but some other sensor is playing up and making the ECU set the wrong voltages. Does the van have a BMS (Battery sensor) mounted on the battery terminal? These can go faulty and give wrong current or voltage readings to the ECU. Or even the ECU memory could be corrupted or adjusted itself badly. An ECU reset or adaptions reset might be possible. If the MIL or similar warning comes on, there should be an error code stored. Sometimes (but not always, unfortunately!) this can give a helpful clue as to the real cause. A lot of OBD reader systems can not read all the codes stored in more modern vehicles. If there is no access to Ford IDS, then Forscan seems to be the next best system.
  13. Tdci-Peter

    Transit alternator issues

    The Mk3 Focus smart charge system only uses a single wire plug. It is a digital bus (LIN) system. A 2012 Transit would likely be the same. In which case it will need the correct LIN bus smart charge alternator.
  14. I am fairly certain it is some sort of oil separator & possibly an air flow control valve, that is part of the crankcase breather system. On my car the oil separator is a separate unit on the end of the engine. It takes all the blow-by gas with oil mist in it, from the crankcase and valve cover areas, returns the oil (most of it anyway) to the sump, and the gas goes into the turbo inlet. So inevitably a little oil from this will get into the turbo and the rest of air intake. Diesels do not have an intake vacuum, so there is no PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve) as such, like there is on a petrol engine, but this does the equivalent job.
  15. Tdci-Peter

    Info on Focus

    As Albert said, there was a dodgy batch of injectors across the whole 1.8TDCI range, sometime in 2008. Though if it has not shown up by now on this car, then it may well be ok. The thread on this started in 2014, peaked about 2016, and has gone quiet lately. The thread is: The lower timing chain was changed to a belt around 2007. Unlike the chain, this is a service item, but it seems a lot of garages may not be aware of it, and it has been missed out in some cases, with bad results. It is not a problem if it is changed at sensible intervals. It is possible to retro fit a chain in place of the belt. See what the service history says if there is any. Otherwise a full timing belt (upper and lower) change would be a good precaution. I think the 1.8TDCI Focus is a very good car. The 1.8TDCI is generally a more robust and longer lasting engine than the 1.6TDCI with its additive based DPF system and some tendency to carbon build up. My 1.8 is well over 170k miles now, oil change once a year. It still has low oil consumption, and is a very nice car to drive.