Tdci-Peter

True Ford Enthusiast
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Tdci-Peter last won the day on October 27

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About Tdci-Peter

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Peter
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    1.8 TDCI Mk2 Focus
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Dorset
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. Tdci-Peter

    Ford Focus 1.8tdi 2008 Poor starting cold or hot

    Fuel filter is not part of a routine annual service, it is about every 3 years. Also changing the filter is one way to get leaks. The lid may not be tightened properly, the gasket damaged or misplaced, and fuel pipes have to be disconnected, bent about and re-connected. There is no tank pump on these (or almost any Ford diesel), so fuel is very unlikely to leak out unless there is a major pipe break, and that is not the case since it runs ok once going. I have solved the EGR hesitations on my car by changing just the actuator part of the EGR valve. This is the visible part at the back of the engine, and is quite easy to remove. Actuators are widely available on the 'net for about £50. They are a common problem. I did a little guide here: I really ought to transfer the content of that to a topic about EGR valves instead of ERG valves . I also did a pdf about it, though it is a bit out of date now and mostly superseded by the post above: https://www.fordownersclub.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=38763 I am not sure what the accelerator pedal does when starting. There is no direct link to the fuel system, it is all entirely under control of the software in the ECU. But maybe it makes the ECU give a bit more welly to the fuel pump or injectors. I am not convinced about any fuel additives, at least not to solve existing problems. Maybe they have some cleaning effect inside the cylinder, but fuel does not go near the EGR valve, unless unburnt fuel passes through to the exhaust.
  2. Tdci-Peter

    Mk8 ST-Line locked out

    Does the car auto-lock when moving? Also normally the seatbelt warning will only come on when moving. It sounds a bit like some glitch or gremlim made the car think it was moving above the self-lock speed. The seatbelt warning chime would also sound. If so, it is certainly worth some investigation. On cars with ABS, speed is from the ABS, so it suggests an intermittent fault in there, or between it and the ECU. I assume it is under warranty, I would suggest that possibility to the dealer.
  3. According to Haynes, the larger diameter one has a blue band on the top of the gaiter, and the smaller one a yellow band. My car has a blue band, I checked recently. I had to wash the area with alcohol, but then it did show clearly. I have not removed it to confirm the size! But they were right about there being a colour band at least.
  4. Tdci-Peter

    Starting Issues

    I would get the battery on charge as soon as possible, using a decent regulated charger. Batteries don't like being left flat. First thing to check is the heavy cable between the alternator and the starter motor, for continuity and good connections. Cables can break inside their insulation, they will feel a bit weak and floppy at a hidden break. Then I would disconnect the small one pin plug on the alternator. This is a signal cable to the ECU, and it should raise an error if broken or disconnected. With the ignition on, or maybe on starting the car, I would expect the battery light to come on, with a relevant DTC that can be read by a code reader. This will give some clue as to whether that wire is ok. It is odd if the battery light has not been on, the ECU is usually pretty good at detecting failed alternators. If no faults appear there, I think I would test or replace the BMS (battery monitoring sensor) that is mounted on the battery negative terminal.
  5. Tdci-Peter

    Things I Don't Like

    Ditto. That 2025 date seemed a lifetime away when I got my license! But it is approaching all too rapidly now, I am still not sure what happened to that lifetime, I think someone must have crept up and stolen a big chunk of it when I was asleep one night!
  6. Tdci-Peter

    Focus fuel injector union identification

    I have never seen the unions supplied as spare parts. The problem is the fuel pressure is up to 1500Bar (22,000PSI), and all the seals are metal to metal, they are not really designed for re-use, and any dirt or damage will cause leaks. Rubber and most sealants will be totally useless at these pressures. They just flow like water (extrude). First double check the leak is between the injector and union, not between union and pipe. Some tissue or string wrapped separately around the two joints might help. Pipes are available as spares. If it is between union and injector, I suspect the best answer would be a second hand injector (or new if you can afford it!), programmed in to the ECU using Forscan or some similar capable diagnostic system. I doubt if a comparable union is available commercially, and the seat damage causing the leak may well be in the injector. If it was a tiny bit of dirt, both faces (union & injector) of the seal area will be damaged.
  7. Tdci-Peter

    Ford Focus 1.8tdi 2008 Poor starting cold or hot

    First points to check are fuel filter and pipes. Air getting in to the system could easily cause this. Clogged filter, loose filter top, bad gasket in filter, cracked pipes, loose pipe connections, are all ways air can get in. The fuel system up to the diesel pump runs under suction almost all the time, so leaks will let air in, not fuel out. Glowplugs are only needed on the 1.8TDCI when starting with the engine below about 5C. EGR remains closed while starting, and will affect normal running with little power dips or unexpected stalls. Turbo has no effect on starting. If the engine turns over ok, and fires up, then battery and starter motor are not prime suspects. Fuel system is deffo the prime suspect area.
  8. It is not the weather to be doing tricky or critical jobs outside! And more rain, cold & wind is forecast. When I did mine, I only got 2 done, then it started to rain, and I packed up. Fortunately, one of the two was the duff one, though I had started at that end as I suspected a problem there. Two years on (almost), and the job has not been finished . I ought to finish it for the reason I gave above, the longer it is left, the worse it will be. I would be a bit surprised, though pleasantly so, if the plugs cured all the problems. But let us know either way.
  9. Tdci-Peter

    Car pulling to right - not tracking problem

    If not already tried, swap front & back wheels. I assume it was a front tyre went flat, it could have distorted the wheel a fraction. This would be barely noticable if it was on the back. If not that, next suspects are the camber angle, that is the angle of the steering axis to the vertical, and the castor angle, which makes the steering self centering. These are not normally adjustable, but a damaged suspension bush or bent front strut or shock absorber would cause them. The garage should be able to test the bushes for play, and new front shock absorbers might be the next step, they are wearing parts anyway.
  10. Tdci-Peter

    Focus Engine component

    That sensor on top of the engine is the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor, aka the boost pressure sensor. The little hose connects it to the Manifold. I looked a little while ago, as mine had broken, right next to the sensor. But the hose seems to only be available with a genuine Ford MAP sensor, and is rather expensive. I just cut mine a fraction shorter and pushed the new end into the rubber adapter on the MAP sensor, made tight with a ty-rap. The pressure is a max of 1.5bar (about 22psi) above atmospheric (2.5 bar abs), and the temperature below 100C, so any nylon or silicone type hose will do the job. That 90deg turbo hose comes off fairly easily once the metal tube is released by the one bolt under those fuel pipes. But I unclip the temperature sensor plug (green thing in pic) first, to avoid straining its connection. I had the lower turbo hose split on me early this year, the one just the other end of the metal tube. That is a real pig to get out, needs the bumper off, and quite a few other bits, plus an awful lot of wriggling about. I bandaged it with some thin ali sheet and jubilee clips at the time, until my major summer overhaul when I removed the bumper etc.
  11. Tdci-Peter

    Things I Do Like

    Good luck!! Got your tool kit, and lots of spares? There's plenty of room in the back for them. May not be that likely to need them, but coming back through Europe on the back of a breakdown truck in that would be rather ...!
  12. Tdci-Peter

    DPF Headache

    If the code is P242F, there is a trick to clear it that has worked, that is to disconnect the MAF plug, start the engine, stop it, read the codes, now with MAF DTCs, clear the DTCs, and apparently the P242F clears with the MAF codes. But, like a bad penny, it usually comes back. Ash can not be removed by any snake oil or magic flush treatments with the DPF on the car, or by any form of regen. Some of it can be removed by back flushing with water, and this has been known to give short term benefit. But I suspect the problem soon returns. A new DPF seems to be the only long term solution. Passive regen (just driving at high revs) has little benefit on the 1.6TDCI, the ECU takes active measures to heat the DPF during one of it's active regens, which is much more effective than driving. Unless maybe pulling a caravan up over an Alpine pass, or the equivalent in solid hard work. Diagnostic systems like Forscan can also initiate a forced regen, done by the ECU while stationary. But this will not clear ash, and probably can not clear soot which has formed in the absence of the Eolys additive fluid. If a new DPF is not an option, either due to the value & condition of the car, or you have reason to suspect some other fault than ash accumulation, then there is quite a lot of info on this site about DPF problems. Talking of other faults, the condition of the hoses leading to the DPF DP sensor is always worth checking, they are very prone to leaks & breakage. This can make the DPF seem blocked (to the ECU) when it is not. The MAF trick is from: https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=247 One thread about this is:
  13. If the plugs have been in for years, then having a go at changing them now could be a good idea. They will only get more firmly stuck with age. If any are just too stiff, then leave them unless you are certain they are dead. I think a warm engine might help. Especially if it has a ali head, as aluminium expands more than steel. Too hot and the steel in the plugs will be weaker, I did mine about an hour after a run. When using a wrench, be careful not to apply side force, just a torque (turning force). Use a Tee-bar handle if you have one, or support the drive end of the ratchet driver with a roughly equal and opposite force to the force on the handle end of the driver. If using any fluids, be aware that if the plugs are in a recess, and any fluid, along with the dirt it holds, will go down into the cylinders when the plug loosens. So use sparingly, and try to soak up any excess. I am no expert here, I have only ever done 2 plugs. One was a pig as the inner casing had distorted, and it had to be turned and pulled all the way out, well past the end of the thread. So that is all I can think of, Tom has done far more than me. Some Pics and other info in this thread:
  14. Just a thought, have you checked the glowplug fuse? Also that the glowplug relay is operating ok and delivering power to the plugs. The DTC could be caused by lack of power to the plugs. On most cars I have seen the wiring of, the ECU monitors the voltage going out to the plugs. On some cars, including mine, the ECU does not monitor the current drawn, so has no idea if the actual plugs are good or not.
  15. It looks like the sensor is built into the fuel return pipe system, and is not readily available separately. I can see what looks like a 2 pin connector in it. But I have doubts as to the actual sensor being the cause of all the problems. Temperature sensors can be tested, they are usually either diodes or thermistors, and gross faults like open circuits can be detected with a multimeter. Also Forscan may be able to monitor the sensor to see if it is giving sensible readings in various states: Engine off, Ign on, Idling & running. I have logs of the fuel rail temperature (among other readings) for my car as a rough comparison. Unless you can get a cheap second hand return pipe system, I suggest further tests are needed before investing in a new replacement pipe system. Note: There seem to be at least two versions, one with a priming hand pump, one without. The Ford no. for the one without pump is: 1550804. Diagram: https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/47/no/13/1549/15354/66655/?detail= Ebay part:https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-Fiesta-Mk7-Fuel-Pipe-Hose-Harness-Less-Hand-Pump-1-4-TDCI-1550804-/182410610910?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1 (scary price!)