Tdci-Peter

I use Firefox, I like Mozilla, a bit less commercial than the big three. I managed to use Firefox on XP up until last year, despite Firefox updates stopping at least a couple of years earlier. Then it became impossible - The tipping point was when HMRC required me to send VAT returns digitally - The software I needed did load & run on XP, but could not manage to upload the data to HMRC - XP had a fundamental limitation built in (deliberately?) so it could not use the latest secure internet protocols. That was when I was forced to downgrade to Win10, it is worse than I expected, absolutely full of ridiculous little delays - despite running on a 64 bit Quad core HP tower designed for it. Boot up time and start up delays from idle are also totally ridiculous. Starting any programme usually takes ages. Firefox does pretty well on it though. Until you need to use any operating system facility or other programme.

Some "helpful" advice from your "friendly" Microsoft website: From: support.microsoft.com › Windows 7 support ended on January 14, 2020 The Windows 10 free upgrade offer ended on July 29, 2016. To upgrade to Windows 10, you will need to have a compatible PC and purchase a full version of the software. We recommend that you don't install Windows 10 on an older device, as some Windows 7 devices are not compatible with Windows 10 or could experience reduced feature availability. ------------------- What I said, in MS's own words. Didn't take me long to find it! Win10 is not scheduled to last much longer, either. The trouble is, there is little alternative. Friendly Uncle Google, fined about 7 billion Euros (and probably rising) for various anti-competitive practices. They make so much money they probably don't really care. Apple is, in many ways, worse. I had a bad experience with Linux, but reading Jimpster's post, am more motivated to try again, when I get enough time to plod through it all.

Microsoft stinks! Absolutely foul stench of greed and stupidity. Their intentional obsolescence policy is utterly indefensible, based on pure greed. What incompetence it is to keep writing operating systems that can not be upgraded, and force perfectly decent computers to be thrown away because they can not be down graded. I have been forced to use Win10 instead of Win XP, and I hate, hate, hate it. So slow and inefficient, and always doing stuff I don't want it to.

Hi, Yes, and the link worked on my system just now: https://www.fordownersclub.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=40491 If that fails for you, I would suspect something, maybe an over-active virus checker, is blocking it. It is a totally ordinary, simple pdf, just text & photos with no interaction or features that could be a threat.

Yes. And Unofix is virtually correct, but the physical implementation is a bit different on a 1 pin (LIN) alternator. C_Volts must be a software value in the ECU, stored in a register there, and that is what is read by Forscan. The ECU converts it into a packet of digital information in LIN bus format, and sends it to the alternator. Here the little LIN processor will receive the packet, recover the stored value, and generate a PWM output with the set % of duty. Then it is the same as an older smart alternator I guess, and the Field coil is simply PWM modulated by that output to control the voltage output. LIN is just a version of the old COM port or RS-232 style serial data interface that has been used since the 1960s, at least at a basic level. It is the protocol used that makes it LIN. It is cheaper, simpler & slower than CAN or other bus systems like USB or ethernet. In cars, and almost all electrical equipment, power circuits will be controlled by some sort of PWM system, the old Triac light dimmer is a crude & simple example. Most resistive and inductive loads respond well to direct PWM control, it saves wasting a lot of energy compared trying to drop the voltage in a continuous manner using a dropper resistor or power transistor, and saves expensive heatsinks etc. Capacitive loads like most LED lighting power supplies and electronic compact fluorescent lamps may not work at all well with direct PWM, and would require a filter.

The simplest thing would be to put a link in your original thread across to this one. Just copy the link that is where it says "Posted (date)" at the top of any post in this thread, and paste it into a new post in the other thread. Then anyone following the other thread can get straight here. If you prefer to do it the other way, copying relevant info from this one into the other thread to make a simpler, edited thread, that would be fine too, but is more work! The new traces look do much better, the C_Volt trace looks rough, but is actually only 0.1v, boosted up by Forscan's crude auto-scaling. I guess that is some sort of regulation or feedback control signal, and shows the alternator is giving a steady output.

I am afraid I missed your 28 March post, I have been over occupied with other stuff! I had exactly the same problem with my EGR actuator, the fork connections to the motor, and the connections to the resistance element in the pot both failed at various times. After several repairs, I ended up replacing the actuator with a Chinese one, which has worked well. It has an electronic angle sensor rather than a pot, which can be a more reliable solution in an area of high vibration and high temperature. Your logic about testing with the actuator removed is correct, it is self contained with motor and sensor. However the ECU does know that the EGR is blanked, this is obvious when driving as it slams the thing from full open to full closed in the various driving conditions, whereas when unblanked & operating, it holds the EGR in mid positions a lot of the time. The ECU measures EGR air flow indirectly by comparing MAF readings with a computation based on RPM, MAP & Intake Air Temperature readings. But this does not seem to bring up error codes on the 1.8. It tests the EGR on each ignition off, comparing motor actuation level with position sensor readings, and this seem to be what causes the error codes if the motor or sensor fail. I did a write up with photos in: The spelling error in the title is not mine! And I can not correct it, so it may not be found easily by a search.

I posted this before I saw the 2nd page! Mistake I have made before. All major automotive electronics are specified to withstand a lot more than 16v, usually up to at least 24v for short periods. Things like radios and many add-on goodies may be more sensitive. So I am optimistic there will not be damage to any critical parts, but the battery will have had its life seriously shortened. I would ask whoever supplied & then failed to spot the failed part, to replace the battery as well as the alternator. This is what I scribbled before seeing this page: 16v plus with LIN connected or disconnected sounds like an alternator with a dead regulator that is putting full voltage on the field winding all the time. Power transistors that fail usually go short circuit, so this is quite possible. Taking good readings of low resistances is almost impossible with any battery powered meter. You need to inject quite a big current (say 1A or so) to get a practically measurable voltage on a low resistance system. And use a 4 wire (Kelvin) connection, or you are just measuring test lead & contact resistance. In circuits carrying a few 100 amps, anything over 0.01ohms is big. 100A times 0.01 ohms is 1v, and would give a 100W power dissipation in the resistance. If it was a bad contact it would get very hot. Assuming the BMS sensor can carry full alternator current & possibly starter motor current (600A to 800A quite often), I would expect it to have about 1milli-ohm (0.001 ohm) resistance. You won't measure that with any conventional meter. The best way, (but not necessarily the safest or easiest!) to look for bad connections in high current circuits is trying to measure voltage drops with the alternator running. An infra-red thermometer is a safer but less direct way to look for the resulting hot spots.

The crankcase vent system is a prime candidate for making the rocker cover leak. Any pressure build up will force oil out of the tiniest gap. I had a vent hose kinked after being put back on by a garage (on a different car), and it made it leak big time.

A tooth out on the timing belt is quite a serious valve timing error. It will certainly waste fuel, it may well reduce max power, and could easily cause the P006A error code. "P006A, means that the powertrain control module (PCM) has detected a discrepancy in the correlating signals between the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor and the mass or volume air flow sensor (MAF/VAF) " The ECU calculates an estimated engine air flow based on RPM, Intake pressure (MAP) and intake air temperature. It compares this to the MAF reading, and the difference is used to control the EGR flow rate. The valve timing is critical in this computation, a mis-timed engine has a smaller effective displacement, and less air per rev. than expected. So I think it is definitely worth checking the timing again and replacing the belt (It is not usually considered a worth while or good idea to re-use a part used belt). The fuel saving alone could be the cost of the belt replacement over a few years. The only worry I would have is that accurately testing the valve timing is quite a difficult job, it is almost half the work of the cam belt replacement on the 1.8TDCI due to the location of the timing pin, though it may be easier on the 1.6. So be sure the garage can be trusted, or double check it!

Have you found the Focus wiring diagrams posted on this site? Sadly, I don't much like the possibility that the car may have been used either without a battery or with a major earth missing. Current & Voltage surges from the alternator could have damaged some of the electronics. Car electronics is supposed to be designed for this sort of abuse, at least on paper, but there are always weak points in such a complex system.

No, definitely very sensible! The CO (Carbon Monoxide) test does not work well on Diesels as the lean burn (far more air than needed just for combustion) naturally generates very little CO compared to the stoichiometric burn of a petrol engine. So the Diesel needs to be made to work quite hard to generate enough CO to make the fluid change colour. I used K-Seal on my previous car (it was a Vauxhall, so I guess it serves me right!), and that fixed a small HG leak. These products are perfect if being used for their intended purpose of curing very small HG leaks on older cars, where the cost of a full repair is not justified.

When I had the PATS code 16 error in 2016, it was the infamous Instrument Cluster fault, and I had to use Forscan to reset some persistent error codes, then it started straight away. I guess the battery resets & ignition cycles did the same thing, but Forscan is quicker & easier! I recommend it. The Instrument Cluster fault is much reported on, but does seem to be rather concentrated around the 2006 build time. Outside that time, other faults in the wiring looms are just as common as the IC. Isetta did cure a CAN bus problem by by-passing a troublesome joint. Locating the CAN bus wires in the looms is not impossible, as they are twisted pairs, and simply splicing in a fixed bypass is an option. Ideally it should not bypass too much wiring, and the new wires should follow a similar route to the originals, or it could degrade the bus error rate, but it is not hyper critical. Intermittent electrical faults are the biggest nightmare on all electrical systems. The Gremlims invariably go in to hiding as soon as a DMM hoves into view. I have often had to play a waiting game, and try to catch them un-awares, but they are all to often smarter & quicker than me, it seems!

It will almost certainly mean removing the starter motor. But the hardest part may be finding a spare solenoid. As Unofix & I said, they are not usually changed separately. I had to hunt high & low to find one, Mid-Ulster Rotating Electrics were the source I found, and some guesswork was involved. To determine if it was the solenoid, I had to test the starter motor on a workbench, which is an operation to be undertaken with a lot of caution! Messing about with car batteries, thick wires, and powerful motors needs planning and care. Removing the solenoid was another hurdle, I bent a Torx bit on the small but very tight fastenings. I managed to repair mine for just under £21 (in 2015), and was very pleased with the result, but it is not a project I would recommend to everyone! I may be a bit of a DIY nutter, but I also have respect for, and experience of, testing potentially dangerous electrical equipment, it is part of my job. A second hand replacement motor, or even a reconditioned one, would be a better bet in most cases. Your comment about the battery charger also makes me think. It could be the battery not providing enough voltage under load. Also the solenoid has to push the pinion into engagement with the flywheel before it can fully pull in and get the motor going, so the pinion could be sticking on its shaft or jamming as it enters the flywheel. Before I changed my solenoid, I knew the battery was good and quite new, that the pinion was free to slide, and that cleaning the solenoid contact did allow it to work reliably for a while, so I was certain it was wear on the contact itself.

Do you mean nothing at all, no lights on dash etc. Or just no click when turning to start position, and no cranking. If there are no unusual indications on the dash when turning to start position, then the starter motor solenoid or pinion engagement mechanism may be faulty. There should be a small click, more audible under the bonnet, if this is the case. Though usually this is repaired simply by replacing the whole starter motor. Cleaning it, replacing just the solenoid & other repairs may be possible for DIY nutters (like me!). No unusual indications on the dash and no under-bonnet click at all, even a faint one, suggests an electrical fault, maybe in the ignition switch, or the starter relay in the engine bay fuse box, or a fuse, or wiring. Inspection and DMM voltage tests can, with some difficulty, locate these type of problem. Unusual dash indication, like lights going dim, out or on unexpectedly, or immobiliser LED flashing, will indicate another type of fault altogether. 12.5v on the battery when it is doing nothing is not a reliable indicator of a good battery. But the intermittent nature of this suggests a bad connection or mechanical fault rather than a bad battery.