Tdci-Peter

True Ford Enthusiast
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Tdci-Peter last won the day on January 11

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About Tdci-Peter

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    Ford Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Peter
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    1.8 TDCI Mk2 Focus
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Dorset
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. It is all I can do, I can not think of any definite answer that you have not already tried! I have had a lot of problems with my EGR, starting in 2012. It put the MIL on, and gave error codes like P0490, Circuit High. It sounded like an electrical problem, and it was. The Mk2 has a fully electric EGR actuator: motor & feedback pot. I blanked it off when it gave problems, and tried repairing the actuator a few times. It worked for a few months usually, then played up & I re-blanked it. Ford do not supply the actuator, and like the Mk1, the valve is built into the inlet manifold, a pig of a job. But the actuator part is easy to remove. So I had to wait for an enterprising Chinese company to spot the market, and make them. Finally in 2018, the price of a new replacement actuator came down to under £50, so I fitted it, and it has been fine since. The ECU seems to prefer having the EGR working & unblanked, and I think fuel economy has improved slightly. From data logs, I could see the ECU was aware of the blanking, it slammed the valve from full open to full closed while blanked, then with the blank removed, I could see it controlling the valve in mid position while idling and cruising. I fitted an in-car display of valve position (& other stuff like MAP & ECT) during the investigations! If there is any point to this here, it is to show that a working EGR is not as bad as painted, and having it blanked will alter the behavior of the ECU in some way, even if no warning light comes on. That will apply to the Mk1 as much as the Mk2. I regard blanking as a good diagnostic test, and a short term fix for failing EGRs prior to a better repair, as opposed to a long term fix. A Diesel only needs fuel and compression to operate, unlike a petrol engine which also needs ignition. So misfires are rarer. Valve leakage or injector problems can cause misfires on individual cylinders. Fuel pressure dips on a common rail would be much slower, with a significant power drop for a noticeable time, rather than the sharp jerk or vibration of a misfire. The EGR valve and the Turbo vanes/wastegate are the only other likely causes of power dips, I have experienced dips due to the EGR, they are minor, not really noticed by a passenger, but a driver will feel the slight power change that does not match any accelerator movement. It could be a log would show a difference between single firing events, and longer events, but I am not entirely confident of this, the data rate is probably too low and variable. Feel & sound is probably a better guide.
  2. A graph capturing the hesitations might possibly be useful. One showing RPM, APP, FRP, MAP & MAF as a minimum, I would suggest. Unfortunately the data rate is too slow and variable to be able to really distinguish cause from effect, so it is not very likely to be 100% diagnostic. Looking at the vacuum operated EGR on the Mk1, it looks like there is no valve position feedback signal from the EGR valve, though some manifolds do have an electrical connector. It makes me wonder if some of these cars do have a DPFE sensor. It would be obvious by the pair of hoses linking it to the EGR valve. But it does seem to be mainly American petrol engines that commonly have the DPFE sensor. You do seem to have checked or changed just about everything! One item that it could be is engine compression. If there was any solid matter released when cleaning the inlet pipe, it could have put a dink in a valve seat or something. When cruising at a steady 60 or below on a flat road, the fuel demand is low, and on my car the turbo is only giving a small boost (1.2Bar abs typ.) So the engine will be running very lean, and may be more susceptible to a compression reduction. If I am at a steady speed of 50 or more, I will usually be in 5th, with the engine rpm at 1700 to just over 2000, though. Max torque is below 2000rpm on these engines. (1900 on mine).
  3. There is no EGR flow sensor on any of the Fords I have looked at, and certainly not on my Mk2 1.8TDCI. The EGR flow is calculated by comparing the MAF reading with a computed engine air flow based on RPM, MAP and Inlet Air Temp (IAT). Since engine air flow includes re-circulated gas and MAF does not, the difference is EGR flow. So there are a lot of potential causes. I would think MAF is suspect no 1, since MAP is compared to turbo operation, and usually gives DTCs if badly out. Minor errors in MAF will not flag a MAF DTC, but may make the EGR seem wrong. But I see MAF has been replaced. That is no 100% guarantee, it is a unit that is hard to calibrate or test, and replacements can be faulty. I guess all hoses & the intercooler have been checked for leaks. It is odd that these engines tolerate blanked EGRs, mine does too. But maybe it is inside their tolerance range, and a faulty MAF has taken it that bit too far. Misfires in a certain RPM range I would put as injector problems, but as these have been changed, MAF is another possibility. I think the Delphi Injectors on the Mk1 require programming to the ECU, I guess this has been done via Forscan if needed. The VDO injectors on the Mk2 need no calibration data entering. Regarding fuel pump problems, Forscan is the best tool. It can monitor the fuel rail pressure during start-up and when running. It should climb very quickly to about 200Bar (20,000kPa) when starting, then the engine will fire up. When running it should follow the accelerator pedal quite closely, peaking at 1500Bar (150,000kPa). Those are figures for my Mk2, I have seen similar figures for a Mk1 though.
  4. I think there are two switches on the brake pedal, one is the brake light switch and the other is the brake pedal switch. The brake light switch drives the brake lights directly, and also goes to the ECU. The brake pedal switch goes to the Instrument Cluster. The ECU can read the brake pedal status over the CAN bus, so can compare the two, and flag up if it thinks there is an error. That is the only reason I can think of for that A/B error. If both have been replaced, it will need testing to be done for signals at each switch to see if there is a wiring fault in one.
  5. Brake fluid level goes into the GEM, along with Interior light controls, Headlights, Indicators and locking. The GEM or BCM is built into the passenger fuse box, and is quite prone to corrosion due to water or condensation. It could be an MS-CAN bus fault, like Isetta suggests. This runs from GEM to the Instrument Cluster (IC). If you have front & rear electric windows then it carries the Door locking and Door latched signals, so Locking & Interior light would be affected. It carries all the signals from GEM to IC, so the IC information LEDs would be affected. It also carries signals from the Restraint Module to the IC, so the seat belt warning chime might be affected, that would be a useful test. Tom suggests the IC soldering. The MS-CAN bus goes through the suspect connector to the IC, but I am a bit doubtful if this would interfere so badly with door locking & latching (interior light). Technically the termination resistor on the IC can affect the whole bus, but in practice it usually works ok even without it. I suspect door signals should get to the GEM even if the IC connector was bad, so it is worth doing additional tests before removing the IC. If the main beam headlights themselves don't work, this is not MS-CAN related, they are directly controlled by the GEM. Just the IC status LED goes over the bus. I suggest additional tests of what does work, as well as what does not. And ideally the use of an in-depth diagnostic system like Forscan, which can test all the stuff on the MS-CAN bus, unlike most generic scanners.
  6. The order of stuff on the CAN bus is: IC, DLC (diagnostic connector), FACM, ABS, Steering, ECU. If there are errors between the ECU & the DLC, but not between IC & DLC, then there could be a poor connection in the CAN bus between DLC & ECU. The FACM (Fuel Additive Control Module) is under the back seat, so means a detour in the bus. But the most likely problem areas seem to be the two connectors under the trim near the passenger door. See: C113 is a little hard to get to, up under the facsia. However CAN bus errors do not link well to the symptoms here, as you have found, the ECU can control the engine pretty much on its own. The engine speed is derived from the crank sensor, which is used to control injection timing to sub-ms levels, so it is hard to see that the ECU is getting wrong data about it. It looks like the VGTDC signal is the primary error, but in a closed loop system it is hard to be sure. It could be that the ECU is altering the VGTDC a little, and not seeing the required response from the MAP sensor, so is limiting further change to avoid overboost and possible turbo overspeed in the event of a faulty MAP sensor. P0299 certainly stacks up with faulty MAP sensor, it was that on my car. I tend to use graph format for Forscan data, then I can let the log run while driving, and stop & store it while parked. Then analyse it later. A shot from a log I did some time ago is here.
  7. The Focus Mk2a does have an optional deflation detection system based on the ABS, measuring the speed differential due to a partially deflated tyre. It could be bought as new, or in at least some cases it can be enabled using ELMConfig. This is a cruder system than the proper TPMS that uses wireless pressure sensors, but it only needed a bit of extra software. It is just possible that this is the origin of the message. However it could be just the ESP, which is programmed to detect spin, oversteer & understeer, again using the ABS wheel sensors, plus a steering wheel angle sensor and yaw sensor (giroscope). A bit about the system is here:
  8. Lazy design really, it was probably the easiest solution for the software writers. In fact a slow puncture can be drastic, I think the majority of high speed blow-outs are caused by slow punctures that have not been noticed, until the tyre temperature rises on a long run by so much that the tyre will disintegrate. Leak rates can increase as the tyre heats up as well.
  9. That is weird! Did it even raise DTCs for the missing circuits? Sounds like the ECU software is so overloaded with un-planned events that it gave up and just kept the engine running regardless. I was trying to work out if you were using Forscan, the images of the DTCs looked like Forscan, but I did not at first recognise the little Icon at the top, I see now it is the Forscan Icon! Have you tried any data logging while driving. I am wondering if there is a problem in a wire or connector between ECU and a sensor. MAF & MAP are prime suspects, data logging might just show if there is a bad connection. Other than wiring and the ECU itself, it seems you have checked or changed most of the other bits.
  10. Try re-connecting everything except the MAF. Some people have found that if the MAF is faulty, it runs better without it. Puts a light on, but the car can still cope. If it does, it would be worth replacing the MAF. Most agree that Forscan is the best system for diy use. I suspect the messages & info in most diy diagnostic systems are copied from IDS. No-one is going to investigate & write all that stuff except the original manufacturer. So I would be surprised if IDS came up with a magic answer any different. It would all depend on the experience & knowledge of the operator. And my opinion of most Ford franchised dealers is pretty low. They just read the screen, and change bits as suggested on it. Swapping an ECU, with the PATS in it, is not an easy option. It either needs re-programming for PATS (Forscan can do it, but it ain't easy), or change the IC and at least the ignition lock & key. With 2nd hand parts, it is all very dodgy!
  11. A decent code reader will usually give more and better information than the flash codes, but if nothing else is available, then the flash codes are a good start, and seem to be fairly universal over most Fords. PATS (the immobiliser) is almost completely independant from the central locking, alarm and remote control system. There is a sensor coil unit around the ignition key barrel, which is connected to the Instrument Cluster (IC). The IC then communicates with the ECU to detect a valid key, known to the car, and the ECU is then enabled. Without this process working, the ECU will not crank the engine, nor will it allow any fuel into it, nor any of the critical functions. It is just about impossible to by-pass without replacing or re-programming the ECU, so it is quite secure. But this means it is a pain when something goes wrong. On earlier versions of PATS (say 1998 to 2004), there was an in-car PATS programming procedure to programme keys for the car (not to be confused with the central locking programming). On later versions it needs a computer diagnostic system like Forscan to be connected to the car in order to re-programme PATS to accept keys. On still later versions (like Mk3 Focus), it is still a dealer only function to re-programme PATS, a very expensive (and unacceptable in my view!) monopoly.
  12. It should flash out a code. Google PATS flash codes. or see: That will help to see if the problem is the key or the car. Forscan is a low cost diy diagnostic system that can reprogramme the immobiliser (PATS) on most Fords, apart from some of the latest models. I am pretty sure it will do a Mk7 Fiesta.
  13. Nightmare! All because of some Ford effort to save a penny or two per car, I expect. I think I would try to get the later pipe, and if it did not fit at the master cyl. end, I would saw both in half and join them with a suitable bit of pipe and about 4 Jubilee clips. I might not be so rash with brake hoses, but even a major clutch failure is designed to leave enough fluid in the system to keep the brakes working.
  14. I have found the information posted about this confusing. The strongest and most stable place is on the sub-frame, where some vertical tubes are welded to the main part of the sub-frame. See below (the un-numbered circles) Since the title may attract other people's attention, I think it worth posting here, even if the OP has solved the problem.
  15. Ignore any prat who says drive like a maniac to get rid of a message without knowing the cause. Just a week or so ago, someone on this site got diesel runaway, a potentially dangerous and very engine damaging thing, due to following similar advice! You certainly need a decent code reader, there are literally hundreds of possible causes for that message. The Ford specific system recommended above is: http://forscan.org/download.html and you will need something like: https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/ to use it. Forscan is not the easiest system to use, but may be the most comprehensive one available for diy use. There are lots of others advertised all over the place that will help diagnose most engine problems. But if the ESP symbol on the dash is relevant, then I suspect Forscan would be the best answer, as generic code readers may well not be able to read information from the steering & ABS modules. Armed with some error codes (DTCs), you can come back here to see what they might mean. Unfortunately, although the DTCs help, they are not 100% accurate. They are usually in the right area, but can be misleading to some extent. It often needs old fashioned observation and testing to avoid spending loads of money on replacing parts that are not faulty.