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About 90Ninety

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    Ford Fusion 2002
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  1. Forget it , the MOT garage got the lights wrong , they said the nearside foglight weren't working , it transpired this is the reverse light - doh
  2. I cannot seem to find anyone that had this issue , ok here goes : I took the fusion 2003 for an MOT yesterday , it failed because of the rear fog light is not working ( I believe its the only fog light on my model ) , at some point water had got to the contacts and possibly caused the problem It transpired that the bulb is fine and the fuse is fine (tested bulb in another hole) . I put a fluke meter on the bulb contacts and on the wire terminal of for the fog , there is no voltage going to it . The fog light indicator works on the dash , if I take out the fuse , the light goes out . I assume the fog light must be on a relay , yet there is no 'click' so maybe relay is faulty ? However according to this page from the Haynes manual here , there is no fog relay Can anyone help? Perhaps there are wiring diagrams available for this
  3. Yeah you were spot on , funnily I found the pipe just before reading your reply but you were right As shown , looks like it has been stabbed , strange So I will probably wrap this pipe with some Silicon Fusing tape , as I I cannot immediately find this size tube Thanks
  4. Hi People I have the Fiesta 1.6 MK6 Engine in a Ford Fusion 03 . The car Idle always had a fluctuating Idle since I got car earlier this year , the car was purchased with around 50K miles on in March this year; the car is 2003 Fusion 2 model . It had got progressively earlier last month, the Idle suddenly started hitting 2000 RPMS on the colder days , recently it has got worse with the needle now resting quite consistently at 2200 RPM . It seems ok when I put the car in gear and start driving but, it has become very irritating when in traffic . Strangely I can counteract the High revs by using the AC and heaters which drops the idle to around 15000 RPM . Strangley there has been no engine light or codes to give me a better clue This is the first Ford Car I have had and is otherwise a good car . I have been researching causes of this and just wondered if anyone could chime in here or share your experiences : Air intake/Vacum Leak - THought to be most common cause of high idle but, not sure where excatly this could occur or on on which pipes ,there are pipes everywhere, so would like to narrow it down if possible T-MAP Dirty- I am getting some flexidrive tools tomorrow and will remove and clean to see if makes difference , though this is usually thought to make the car revs die down . I had managed to clean the throttle body , it was slightly dirty but ,this did not make any change . If anyone could share their knowlege here it would be much appreciated . IT is getting cold here and might have to start using my Pocket rocket instead
  5. OK I have a rough girl with a surging idle , i've heard a likely cause could be a dirty throttle body (and/or Map sensor ) that needs cleaning . Being tight of money for a mechanic looking at it , I want to have a stab myself . I had noticed this has been covered before here Duratec Cleaning Map sensor & Throttle body To get to the throttle body , as shown in the post in the link, one has to remove the Air cleaning outlet hose . Strangley it seems ford have their own proprietary steel ties , they look like the ties used on CV boots . To get the hose off the original ties look like they need to be cut/destroyed (disposable). I could get regular pinch clamp style ties , that are used on CV boots I suppose , but the lower hose tie which attaches to the Throttle body is in a very confined space, it would be very tricky to get a pinch style clamps inside and at the right angle to get a tight clamp around the hose I was thinking of using a jubilee steel tie for the bottom end of the air cleaning outlet hose , as it would be easier to tighten I just wondered if anyone had done this before, that could share their experience with me? I have done pretty regular stuff on cars like CV joints , rotors , Pads , Brake cylinders - So I am confident with tools for basic jobs
  6. I have the petrol 1.6 , I would not currently know where the Mass Air flow sensor is - though once I research and figure out where the bugger is - I shall try . Thanks for the tip Will also look into this and let you know how I get on , again thanks for this tip. I have a generic Bluetooth ELM327 OBDII tool , with a few applications , though I am not sure these applications support codes . However I have not been presented by any code using this OBDII tool yet . Does Forscan work with the Bluetooth ELM327 OBDII , or does Forscan need a special spliced/homebrew cable
  7. OK So after removing the scuttle , after close inspection it was indeed in two pieces , there is a strip which is supposed to be fixed onto the window but instead had came away with the scuttle . Annoyingly the clasps designed for holding the 'retaining strip'are useless . they are not user serviceable they simply do not hold the strip aginst the window tight enough once the scuttle was reinstalled - Very poor design for an otherwise solid car . Not only are the clasps not serviceable but it is going to be almost impossible to replace the clasps but, why ? The clasps are riveted on to the chassis , access to the rivets is obscured slightly by the front windscreen , making it a seemingly impossible job . Even so , where the hell would I find these things ? Even if the damned clasps are replaced , they are fiddly as hell in design , with tiny 1mm blocks which slot into the levers to hold them in place - Couldn't they use something simpler ?
  8. Perhaps the ECU needs a software update also ?
  9. Is the ECU next to the battery?
  10. Hi I've been getting the dreaded EAC failure . Now I am on the understanding , ( along with gut feeling) that this is a Electronic Glitch . Some people have somwhat temporarily cured this by cleaning the throttle body . However with my Computer repair background , I am tempted to open up the ECU and re-flow the components and connections on it . From experience many many ( most imho) of electronics that fail are due to cold , dry solder joints due to overheating , poor solder or PCBA flexing . I have repaired countless items with reflowing and would like to try I have got a a proper rework station , so have no fear giving it try, just thought it would be useful should I be successful What are your thoughts ?
  11. Also am getting the occasional EAC failure about once a week , done it twice in 5 minutes yesterday - Usually happens when cold . I expect this is a glitch with the electronic throttle - Where can I find the electronic throttle components ? I want to inspect it, clean the contacts and re-seat connections
  12. Am I being thick or ham fisted ?.The scuttle is one solid piece ( apart from what appears to be remnants of rubber - perhaps perished seal) , When the scuttle is removed there is just the bottom of the screen glass , there is no clips of fastening on the glass itself , It appears the screen glass just 'slots' into the scuttle , the scuttle is held in with hooks on the chassis (as shown on the sixth image) However there is two grooves in the scuttle ( see ninth image below ) and the bigger inner groove seems to fit the screen glass but, I might be wrong ? Perhaps I am in the wrong groove , though the outer smaller groove has remnants of something unknown so will need to clean out and try again in outer groove I guess