mjt

Well, this is really baffling. Sorry Tony but I'm afraid I can't think of anything else to try. When I had problems with the single wipe non-parking on our old Mk1.5 it turned out to be burnt contacts in the relay but I can't see how that could be related to the pump problem. Did the single wipe work with your original switch?

From these results, plus the ones you did previously which seemed to show the wiring is intact, it does suggest the fault lies within the switch but you said earlier you'd tried another switch. If you are able it would still be worth using the multimeter to do a continuity test on each wire from stalk to pump.

It didn't take a rocket scientist to work out that as soon as they started charging for landfill people would start dumping stuff in the countryside.

Cheap readers will only pull down generic codes. If the car is throwing up proprietary codes you will need the kit Luke suggested to see them.

Assuming you've got rear discs it's likely to be the caliper piston sticking, either due to corrosion in the bore or possibly the handbrake linkage. This operates a pushrod through the back of the caliper which could be seizing up.

Can't argue with that. 😀 The only other thing I can think of is that there's a break in the earth circuit between stalk pin 3 and E14.

Those relays operate the wipers, not the wash, so they won't be the cause of your problem. R64 is the rear wiper relay and R162 is the front wiper relay. Have you tried using your test lamp whilst someone operates the stalk to see if one or other side of the pump gets earthed? It could well be that there is a break in the wiring to one side of the pump. If this was the case you'd still see live on both sides with your test lamp when the wash is not being operated because live would be going to one side and the resistance of the motor is much less than the lamp. Since you've changed both pump and stalk and it still doesn't work either front or rear this seems quite a likely cause. For example, let's assume there's a break somewhere between pump pin 1 and stalk pin 2. Then you'd still be getting live to pump pin 2 from stalk pin 4. Because there's no current flowing through the motor there's no voltage dropped across it so you see live both sides. If you operate the front wash, switch d, it won't earth pump pin 1 because of the break so you'd still see live both sides. If, however, you operate rear wash, switch c, it will earth pump pin 2 and because of the break in the pin 1 path you'll then see earth both sides. The reverse would obviously be true if the break is in the other side of the pump. I hope that makes sense. So, testing each side of the pump whilst someone operates the wash functions should allow you to determine whether there is a break and if so which side is affected.

You could be losing some voltage somewhere in the circuit but I'd say it's unlikely to be the fuse or the contacts inside the relay although you could try unplugging each of them and taking a look to see if the contact pins and/or sockets are dirty. Unplugging and re-inserting a few times might help to clean off any dirt or oxide and a shot of contact cleaner spray (NOT WD40!) could help. You might have corroded connections somewhere, possibly at an earth. If you could get access to the connections at the horn itself it would be interesting to measure the voltage whilst it's operating. Alternatively the performance of the horn may just have deteriorated with age simply due to the way it works, with the constant breaking and making of contacts inside. Most usually have some form of adjustment that can be tweaked to restore the lost performance but I've never looked at any on Fords so don't know if they're adjustable.

On vehicles of this age the washer motor is driven directly from the stalk switch. The same motor is used for both front and rear wash by reversing the direction of the motor and using non-return valves. This means that both earth and live are switched by the stalk. If you follow the positions of switches c and d in the attached diagram you can see that normally, until a switch is activated, live will be present on both sides of the motor. Switch c controls rear wash/wipe and d front wash/wipe. When you operate the front wash switch d should earth one side of the motor and when you use the rear wash switch c should earth the other side.

Don't waste your time cleaning the old one, it won't last. Trust me, I've been there. You will definitely have wrecked the pads and probably the disc on that side so I'd recommend replacing discs and pads on both sides to maintain brake balance as Isetta says.

Our old Mk1.5 took a mpg hit when one of the front caliper pistons started sticking. The sudden reduction in mpg was the only clue that something was wrong, there was no noticeable effect on the steering or braking, Out of all the work you've done I'd say the brakes are the most likely suspect. One thing worth trying is to place your hand on the wheel hubs after a run and see if one is hot, or warmer than the others.

It will also cause the tread to wear faster down the centre.

Sounds like that dealer was a bit over-enthusiastic testing the clutch. I wouldn't be happy with any dealer deliberately slipping the clutch to the point where it starts burning. I would write a formal letter of complaint to their service manager making it clear that if the clutch fails because of what they've done you'll expect them to replace it free of charge.

True, but they are of roughly equivalent brightness to the filament bulbs. I think Botus was simply saying don't use over-bright bulbs.

Depends what they mean by "lifetime". That's a very broad definition that could mean anything.