mjt

So it's going to totally crap out when (poorly) driving on ice/snow? 😂 That's Ford for ya! When I said 'road speed' I meant the signal relating to road speed, from the vss or abs ring. If it detects the engine speed 'signal' increasing without a corresponding increase in road speed 'signal' that would indicate clutch slip.

I'm also a bit concerned about using flush. Most engines have areas that don't fully drain down so a refill is always less than a dry fill. This means that some flush will remain and it will take several oil changes to dilute it down to a minimal level.

If it was that bad you'd have probably got just as much performance improvement by replacing it with an OEM one.

It's more likely to be comparing engine speed from the crank sensor with road speed.

My main worry is that I understand the garage test the clutch for slip as part of the recall. I just pray they don't ruin a perfectly good clutch.

Classic earth fault. This diagram shows what happens. With the brake switch open the current goes through tail and brake on the side with the break and earths through brake on the other side. When brake switch closes 12V is applied to both filaments on the break side so no current flows.

Welcome to the forum. The only thing you've got wrong is simply putting "Help" in the subject line. It's good practice to briefly describe the problem,

That's reassuring to know. I've just received the letter for mine and had mixed feelings about booking it in. I'm definitely in the "if it's not broke don't fix it" camp and my car is performing fine at the moment. I have no problem with the clutch action, the bite point is perfect. It can judder a bit if I try to pull away too briskly but definitely no slip. I'd be annoyed if the update changed the characteristics of the pull away.

The 512GW is a particularly bulky model and I had trouble mounting my 412GW, which is the same size, in my Mk3. It looks to be impossible to meet the criteria of not intruding more than 4cm into the wiper swept area. I had it tucked as far as possible behind the mirror using the supplied self-adhesive mount, which is a lot less bulky than the suction mount, but it then obstructed the auto-dimming sensor. I now have it to the left of the mirror using the suction mount. I'm just living with the auto-wiper/autolamps sensor casing intruding into the image. There's no way you can position the cam to avoid this without intruding a long way into the swept area. I took the precaution of removing the cam from its mount before the MOT to avoid a fail on this requirement. The other problem I have is that the mount doesn't provide enough adjustment to cope with the extreme rake of the Mk3 windscreen. It just about gets away with it due to the wide-angle optics but I'd prefer to have it angled a bit further down to exclude more of the sky. I contacted Nextbase about this but they weren't able to offer any alternative mount.

No, the immobiliser uses a passive chip in the fob that is interrogated by a near-field coil around the ignition lock. The central locking uses an active circuit that transmits a coded radio signal to the car. As for reprogramming I'll have to leave that for someone more knowledgeable.

The first thing I would check would be the battery terminal connections. One or both could be loose or corroded.

Core plugs are used to seal the holes where the supports for the cores used in casting the coolant spaces inside the block and head come out so they're nothing to do with the lubrication system..

That's all well and good if the plugs are only going to get installed and removed once but I wonder what happens if they're removed, e.g. for gap checking, and then refitted. Presumably the "lubricant" plating that will have broken away will then fall into the cylinder as the plug is screwed in again so it won't work a second time. It's well known that the 'water in the plug wells' syndrome can result in the plugs becoming corroded in and then breaking during removal. That happened to my neighbour's Mk 2 whilst in for a service. I'd rather put some anti-seize on and reduce the setting on the torque wrench. Incidentally I seem to remember that back in the day it used to be recommended to screw the plug in by hand then tighten by a specified angle. This would avoid over-tightening whether or not a lubricant was present and is a much better idea in my opinion.

Personally I would use copper anti-seize grease.

I can only speak about my Mk3. I don't know if the Mk2 would be the same. I guess it's likely that different versions of the software will give different displays. Anyhow, with my CC when it's first activated into standby before a speed is set the display remains blank. After a speed has been set it's displayed at normal brightness and is held. If the CC is then put into standby (by operating the 'cancel' switch, brake or clutch) the speed is no longer held and the speed display is greyed with a bar drawn through it until re-activated by another operation of the 'cancel' switch.