ThaiFiesta

True Ford Enthusiast
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    611
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About ThaiFiesta

  • Rank
    Too much time on the boards

Profile Information

  • First Name
    David
  • Ford Model
    WZ Ford Fiesta (Mk 7.5) 1.0T Powershift
  • Ford Year
    2014
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Modification
    Food & Drink
    Entertainment
    Sports & Leisure

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  • Location
    Thailand

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  1. There’s a couple of rivets there too, or screws/nuts if someone has already replaced it.
  2. The same fan draws air through the aircon condenser and the radiator to cool the engine.
  3. I’d recommend Brake fluid every 2 years Coolant every 50k Miles and after any significant overheating event. The Ford OEM coolant breaks down at high temps leading to sandy looking deposits in the coolant tanks. These engines are very sensitive to overheating.
  4. For that money I’d suggest you spend a little more and get a proper remap, rather than a chip which “tricks” the ECU into delivering more power. https://www.mybluefin.co.uk/search?make=9&fueltype=3&model=1&variant=3075
  5. These guys can replace the OEM LED at a reasonable price. https://www.pwperformance.co.uk/
  6. My coolant tank was leaking slowly when very hot. Changed it and not a drop gone in months. They did also change the cap so could have been that.
  7. Sounds like the loom or clockspring is different if it’s not recognising the left switch.
  8. You can scan it yourself: Ford Fiesta MK7 hidden menu procedure Press and hold trip reset button on the instrument cluster. Turn ignition on with key or by pressing START button without clutch. After few seconds “test” message will appear on the display. Release the button. Browse the Ford Fiesta MK7 hidden menu with trip reset button.
  9. Genuine Ford ones are £130 painted and fitted by Ford here. You might be surprised - see what your nearest large Ford dealer charges.
  10. Hard to really say until you scrape that bubbled rust away. An expensive fix (new turbo) if you find it’s deeply pitted.
  11. Look for a PFL Sony unit (if you want to upgrade) and Sync module (but better off getting a 1.1 module). There’s a couple of threads on here on how to install with the minimal amount of effort. It’s much more work to install a Facelift unit.
  12. The buttons work by each sending a different resistance voltage to the designated module. The clockspring permits multiple wires to pass through the steering columns from the wheel. It’s often a case of a dirty/stuck button if you’ve tried all the reset options, or as you say, a loose connection. Try spraying with contact cleaner first. If that doesn’t work you can take the V trim off by taking out the 3 hex screws on the rear and seeing if the connections are firm. Also check the cables into the sync module under the kick tray under the glove box and in the steering column (see photo). If that doesn’t work get a new switch module off eBay or the like.
  13. You need to check to see what codes the car is throwing? Did the engine light come on? Are you using MyKey with a maximum speed imposed?
  14. Yes the Sony head unit is the top model and came in DAB and SatNav variants. Antennas and speakers seems to differ, either through factory errors or when people have upgraded pieces rather than whole systems. The Sony unit allegedly produces higher quality output than the multi-button unit, but I haven’t seen specs that prove that.