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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

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Mo_focus

Budding Enthusiast
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About Mo_focus

  • Rank
    Newbie

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    mohammed

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    Focus 1.6 tdci
  • Ford Year
    2010
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Greater London
  1. Thanks to everyone for the advice so far. I believe my DPF has some sort of coating which means it doesn't need the EOLYS fluid. I brought it to the garage, who used the snap-on diagnostic machine to find the codes the first time (before I got Forscan). They got me to rev the engine and had a look under the bonnet. He mentioned it could be a DPF problem before we hooked it up and got the DPF fault codes, so it sounded like he knew what he was on about. He also recommended finding someone reputable who can remove the DPF as he wasn't the biggest fan. I've checked the DPF sensor reading with ignition on engine off, and it seems to jump between 0.7 and 0.8 kPa with the engine off, and around 5-6kPa with the engine on but the car stationary. I assume a functioning sensor should give a reading of 0kPa with engine off, I'm not sure if 0.7-0.8 is more or less 0 in this case...
  2. Hi all, I've been having DPF problems with my 1.6 TDCI focus (2010, 76K miles), and need a bit of advice on decisions going forward. I haven't found one post that really explores different DPF options together clearly, so hopefully this will prove useful for others. Symptoms and diagnosis: - Car's acceleration had become poor and there was less power overall, which was more noticeable on uphill climbs. This was shortly after getting it serviced (changed oil, air and fuel filters) so I was intending to take it back to the garage to make sure all the pipes were connected back properly etc. - Before I had a chance to get to the garage the engine management light came on and car went into Limp mode (car restricted to 3,000prm max). There were a few occasions in the week before when I turned the car off and the engine fan remained on for a few minutes, which I believe is due to a DPF regeneration being interrupted before it could finish. - The garage diagnostic tool found two fault codes (P242F: DPF restriction-Ash accumulation and P2463: DPF soot accumulation). After clearing the codes, P242F was removed and the car gets out of Limp mode, but P2463 remains and engine management light stays on. The things I have tried so far: 1. Bought a modified ODB cable to connect my laptop to car and downloaded Forscan to get some live data on car sensors to confirm the problem and check potential causes. DPF sensor seems too high. When I rev it to around 3K rpm it jumps to around 15-20kPa. I believe 5kPa should be the max for a well functioning DPF, so this seems to confirm the DPF issue (as well as poor acceleration). I would recommend all owners of a Ford car to install Forscan on their computers or download the app as it really gives you some tools for diagnosing/fixing problems yourself. 2. Added Wynn's DPF cleaner to fuel tank and took car for a run at high revs down the motorway. I recorded live DPF pressure sensor and it reached 40kPa at one point. I found out after further reading that with the engine light on for code P2463 the car will no longer automatically start a DPF regeneration, so I don't think this method can be a cure in my case, but rather good practise now and again to ensure you don't run into DPF problems down the line. 3. Tried to do a manual regeneration using Forscan, but it stopped after initialising due to high soot content in DPF. I believe this is a safety precaution as manual regeneration can raise the temperature in the DPF to 600 degrees. Options to resolve problem: The car runs fine apart from poor acceleration, but I've been trying to use it as little as possible to avoid damage, and I could really do with some advise now on getting this resolved. I believe I have the following options, but I have no clue which would be the best one to take (if I have missed anything can you please add the option to this discussion): 1. Replace DPF- I've read that the DPF will need replacing after 75K miles (which means I am due for a replacement), to I could buy a new DPF part and have the garage fit it. This would hopefully solve the problem, but I am aware that there may have been other faults which have led to the DPF becoming blocked. The top two main culprits may be a stuck EGR valve or the Turbo leaking oil. Both would lead to the DPF becoming blocked again, so I would therefore need to get the EGR valve inspected and cleaned as well as the turbo inspected. I think this option will cost me around £500 in total with an aftermarket DPF (roughly half the total for parts and labour each). Questions: - Would an aftermarket DPF be recommended for price savings e.g. Eurocar parts have a brand called 'React'. - Is there anything to be aware of that may lead to this option not correcting the problem? 2. Have the DPF cleaned- This should be cheaper than a complete replacement, and would involve the DPF being removed and professionally cleaned. Alternatively I believe you could remove the DPF yourself and use a high pressure water hose to clean it yourself (I don't feel this is an option for me as I haven't got any real DIY mechanic experience). I think it would be wise to the checks outline in option 1 to rule out any future DPF blockages. Cost may be roughly £400 (?), but I haven't done much research into this options. Questions: - How likely is this to work? - Are there any reputable companies to do this in London? 3. Remove the DPF - you could remove the filter from inside the DPF casing and have it reinstalled. This would require the cars electronic system to be remapped to make the car ignore all things related to the DPF. I think in theory this is in breach of the MOT rules, and may lead to the car failing the MOT, but from what I've read it is highly unlikely to fail in practise. This options seems to cost between £400-£600. Questions: - Could this lead to the car having any other mechanical problems? - Has anyone with experience of having this done had MOT problems? I really appreciate any help and advice given on how I can resolve this, or if there are any last things I could do myself to save a trip to the garage. It would be nice to get the car back to how it felt before and that feeling of having a reliable vehicle. If you want any more information just ask and I hope this thread provides a good outline of the options for other to make a decision if they face DPF problems. Many thanks, Mo
  3. Quick Hi

    Hello all, Just a quick introduction. Bought a Ford Focus 1.6 TDCI (2010) as my first car about 8 months ago and have been enjoying it so far. Learning a lot about cars now that I have my own which is really enjoyable. Few little problems here and there, but its great to have forums like this for us all to share knowledge! Hope everyone is well. Best wishes, Mo