Botus

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Botus last won the day on October 6 2018

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About Botus

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  • First Name
    Botus
  • Ford Model
    Focus Mk2.5
  • Ford Year
    2007
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Berkshire

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  1. did the tractors get the electrically heated stat that some 2007 1.6 petrol vvti got. the heater element pops and the engine runs hot with the fan running almost from cold start new (expensive) stat and all good 3 years on
  2. this was on BBC watchdog dead std along with other models going up in flames https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-45628325
  3. I would expect the Bluetooth updated by doing a different module - do you have a USB connection ? if so put this on a stick on here called https://fordcom.de/en/download/update-sound-connect-november-2012/
  4. OK, thanks for the timeline update. and it failed at around 10k miles from brand new and you guys were the first owners? which all seems a bit odd as you've been saying... If its a nice clean car and servicing was always done by a main dealer. I think you need to start again, but dealing with a higher level than just the idiots at the helpline. Maybe formulate one new complaint with clear timeline of the cars life - state the known failure modes ford has had that has led to the recall, and if possible the normal mileage most clutches reach before failure. Also find what/how Ford resolved the same issues in USA and Australia (it will be much simpler, clearer and I expect involve lots of new free parts). And set your stall out quoting various legislation there is here to help/protect consumers. Then send it to the legal department stating you are taking them to the small claims court. https://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/regulation/consumer-rights-act The issue in the UK is we are directed / marketed to by idiots and we fall for it time after time. All Media / TV is only designed to warp our brains. We are just becoming down trodden slaves and everyone thinking standing up for rights, fairness, justice, retention of a functioning society is wrong (the clever bit is the people don't even realise that's what they are actively supporting) . We need to work together on class action law suits and screw the scum making billions ruining our lives / stealing the value created by our hard work. Trouble is there is something in the phyche of the British that the "evil ones" worked out. Over the last 70 years we have been slowly manipulated down a dangerous path. Since the 50's when the masses had enough brains and power for good, we just let it slip through our fingers.. and Pandora's box is wide open and we are falling in to a cesspit of hell, smiling and believing that its never been better... I think you need to judge if you are fighting (and thus have energy) now for the principle rather than the money. The cost so far is about 800 quid (...and don't forget you have a new clutch and software to help it last) if others aren't interested in clubbing together prob not worth the stress in your life.
  5. even more reason not to bother.... by far the best set up was the big BM screen under a big hood from the dash (as in e89 and e60) full of (the similar to ford but adult sized) traffic light display. Here each corner had a massive very accurate display and distinctive tones front to rear which just worked.. in comparison to a camera subject to road filth and the screen full of sun reflections (which makes it a total and utter waste of space). I never had the camera on my merc and thought it would be a decent upgrade that I ought to fit. I sourced secondhand parts relatively cheapy, getting hold of the original crazy money parts (including the very expensive active line module £1300, camera £750 and loom £ 350) then paid silly money to get it coded and calibrated only to find its about 10% fit for purpose.... if merc weren't so retarded fitting front and rear sensor visual indicators in different places on the car and a volume level 1/3 of what's required, I now know I would never bother fitting one again. on a merc….all the noises are the same and almost inaudible and then the sensors only come in when its almost too late to react..... so you end up staring in three mirrors, four corners, whilst wobbling your head about trying to look around the steering wheel spokes to see the speedo for the fronts sensor info, the top of the rear window for the rears and the screen for the camera…. all in, you'd be better off just driving it like an adult
  6. sounds to me like the clutch was "completely gone" directly after its condition was supposed to have been checked at the garage during the recall work.... there is no way that it could have checked out as OK, only for total failure to occur 50 miles down the road.... it must have been heavily worn and "testing" must have discovered it was worn out. Now I wonder if it was like my sister. She argued with them when booking in the car that's there's now way the work will take 9 hours they quoted for the recall.... and went back nagging to have her car back and took it away after 3 hours.... (software only) to me this sounds like ignorant owners not even giving ford the opportunity to fit a free clutch... I'm not waiting that long. "Ok Madan the clutch is trashed and you won't leave it with us long enough to fit a new one, see you very soon... don't forget to bring 600 quid with you next week" re point 4) the change light is exactly like the old days where a vacuum gauge will "teach you to use a light throttle and low revs" this silly idea was std on many BM cars for 20 plus years, for normal progress you can't maintain no vacuum all the time but thats how the shift light is trying to get you to drive.... and on an NA car you'll be as slow as hell, inconveniencing every one else on the road. But theses days with a clever turbo you can keep the revs down whilst actually working its socks off the engine (making nearly 3 ltrs worth of go) and its why fuel consumption is terrible "even though I was driving gently" ...AKA flogging it to death without realising
  7. are we on about sync 1.1 ? if so read how to fix the faulty files ford put on their site - 7th reply
  8. that's an awful name. the industry uses " overboost " and it a far better name.... its to help get you out of trouble (for example when overtaking) as you stand on it and leave your foot there it just sets a timer allowing slightly more boost for a pre determined period (e.g. 0.1 bar more than std for 20 seconds), if you carrying on trying, to stop things getting too hot a while later it drops back to the standard boost its supposed to be running
  9. its a bit like wheel spin, once started easy to keep slipping, when new it coped, but after a bit of wear it slips, so to protect against the impact of a light clutch / weak pressure plate they dropped the torque the engine produces during the update
  10. the reason it has 3.5 litres of oil in there rather than the 1 litre is two fold 1) as the engine revs rise the amount of oil circulating increases (pump runs at engine speed) but the time to return to the sump doesn't and with the crank splashing oil everywhere, you easily reach low level and suck part air, part oil 2) so the oil has time to cool down and survive the rigors of an engine working 1 litre of oil might still be going round (just) but it will be damaged rapidly, as the properties its supposed to have are beaten to death. Few engines run out totally, but many go bang as the limited oil is over stressed and gives up doing it job the reason we see fewer failures these days is because of the increased prevalence of synthetic oil.... it should be noted "synthetic oil" is the wrong name …. its ordinary oil but with more crap taken out leaving a higher quality oil more capable of surviving high temps... a very good one might just cope with 320C where a cheap nasty oil will start to fail at 190C… and some magic additives add their bit too when you buy posh oil
  11. I think the bigger message is STOP driving it you are wrecking the engine..... get the level right and monitor regularly NEVER start any vehicle if when you check there is NOTHING on the dip stick (unless someone's life really, really depends on it and you like taking risks.... then drive very gently and expect to get less than 10 miles before walking, the person dies anyway and the car needs a new engine) the fact you saw oil when you first pulled it out means there was a tiny bit left splashing around.... which if it had just dropped below and you were going to the paper shop 50 yards away and its got clean synthetic oil means you probably didn't do much damage... if its been below min for 500 miles and you proceeded to drive for a further 16 hrs without the right level means at BEST you just took 50,000 miles of life out of the engine
  12. sounds odd, the parking light position, I don't believe is recorded in software, if you made back up then that's a start.... but you don't say about the main one you need a back up of. Its the PCM which is the most critical one to have an unmolested back up off ! this has how the engine runs and the immobiliser settings the others you can work around …. but a screwed PCM ecu and no back up will be more of a headache. at least it start and stops... make sure the car is on some form of power supply back up (even a normal battery charger) and make sure the laptop is plugged in the mains and its battery fully charged. You can't go round just playing with critical software and programming its highly likely things just die and give up. And then its buy new ECUs and months of fun on ebay before you get the car to run again.... Merc and BM tools will not allow any programming unless its on 14.6 v stable power supply and all others should too. Without it, the tools have enough brains to just stop progress when you say go.... Make sure you have a good copy of the PCM software it will take 45 minutes ! then go slow retrace steps.... you could go back to the original GEM and HEC settings and see if the car does what it should …. I doubt you'll get much help here in the short term put vehicle on a charger and re write the original PCM back up to the car.. see where you are, if normal, then ONLY change the tick box for cruise and save that. Then see where you are.
  13. I've got a Ford Sony 6 disc sony DAB head unit CD345-MCA SONY DAB , a Chinese VAG loom and BVC 8M5T-119C AT module running Nov 2012 update. Its sound quality is perfect, loud and crystal clear using Bluetooth on either a Samsung j5 pro or an Apple 6s I'm shocked how well it works. The same head unit and https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-car-kit-for-cars-with-aux-input-BTC-450/173946466140?epid=16011369201&hash=item2880046f5c:g:80wAAOSwRJpdFNKm was a total disaster zone. Almost no audio output and lots of interference even with a ground loop isolator. Oddly that device was OK on the original CD6000 head unit
  14. this is no longer the way major manu do it.... (certainly BM and Merc have never done it this way) each car has specific looms for the car they are building. could easily be 5 looms for the same model inside say a given door and your car ONLY gets the wires for the toy count you bought. A major pain in the ***** to re fit toys once affordable / on the secondhand market... the cost is actually lower to the car manu as they don't pay for a length of wire... (multiply 25 pence x 20,000 cars and the accountants love it) its the supplier who gets screwed over, as they have to manage the complexity building and carrying the cost of stock, ensuring they get the right parts on time for the build spec of the one's being produced that day ford must do it to some extent as there were no wires for BT in mine and no wires for dimming mirror or rain sensor - but it did have wiring for cruise control, with the advent of can bus huge chunks don't need to be part of a main loom anymore... you plug in a small cheap loom and in software enable the new toy.... parking sensors, camera, and the bits I mention above etc.