Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Botus

True Ford Enthusiast
  • Content Count

    1,006
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Botus last won the day on October 6 2018

Botus had the most liked content!

1 Follower

About Botus

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Botus
  • Ford Model
    Focus Mk2.5
  • Ford Year
    2007
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Berkshire

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. do a thermostat at the same time easy when apart not so much fun when its all together PAS pipe will probably get stressed and then fail shortly after, a redesign saw a silly strengthening bracket to stop a stress fracture of the high pressure pipe, right on the stupid one way push fit connector
  2. an AC clutch is something pre 2005, most cars now, and indeed on my 2007 mk2 focus has an ALWAYS on constantly variable compressor, it has a swash plate and the load of the compressor is variable and altered by the engine management to reduce the load on hills, under hard acceleration and for conditions where full cold isn't requied
  3. agree with JW1982, although I never quite understood what's going on when doing this on the normal ones, I muddled and ended up being told I had an empty vid block, but everything worked (except cruise), I redid the steps and added the cruise bit (I presume to the now no longer empty vid block?) although where it comes from I'm not sure.... is it part of the extras (calibration files) you add when installing the software tool? I came to the conclusion inside the PCM is three bits of software the engine map, the immobiliser bit, and then what makes cruise work, bit no one confirmed th
  4. swapping from DMF to the nasty garbage idiots use is a mistake - there are multiple reasons its fitted the big three being 1) crankshaft vibration damper (literally the crank can snap in half under full power / high revs - some engine's its guaranteed, most tractors are so disgusting they cope) 2) to protect engine mounts and drivetrain (gearbox, differential and drive shafts) from excessive shock 3) to vastly reduce NVH making the vehicle much more pleasant and far easier to drive after telling them NOT to fit the zero vibration damping single mass catastrophe, both my idiot bro
  5. few lubricate the gear linkages all cars end up with a different method, as engine, box and fitment varies, but many have ways to get lube somewhere external, it can make massive difference and should be part of routine servicing. on her mk2 internally under the gator, both the silly nylon ball squeaks from being dry, I use white grease, the internal cables and connectors I use wd40 and outside i pulled off the plastic cover where the cables connected up, took them off and put copper-slip on the linages and more wd40 on the bits of the cables that are bare and it like a brand new car
  6. on an older car might be leaf litter blocking the drains "outside" where all the water from the windscreen runs away out of sight... and or the pollen filter is clogged up and full of leaf litter stopping water draining away correctly I thought heater matrix leaks on the passenger side ? if brave taste the drips if its pink and sweet could be the antifreeze (from the heater) then you get fun with sunroofs have internal drains that should reach the floor outside, but get blocked and can cause rain inside (where its possible, it runs down the trim and get you under the dash) the m
  7. its a different module with possibly no loom, or a different loom with a smaller plug to connect it your search needed this thread
  8. I didn't realise it was a tractor, I think quite a few magazines find tractor's take longer to settle in, of course the other thing could be an external leak if you've got those miles on, when warm and engine nicely warmed through a few rips up the road to help it settle might help. I'd do that, get the oil changed and see if it settles down by 6k miles more oil means longer service intervals, interesting point by iantt about DPF regen... a lot of Merc's "gain oil" as the emission system often fails to regen and owners never drive them right went told to do a long steady run.
  9. drive hard / or high speed it drinks the stuff, gentle use, constant throttle uses much less.... how full was it when u got it ??? miles will depend on the tank size (these days for emissions it will be small - less weight), a WV 2 litre tractor with a big tank ripping it will do 7k miles to empty, drive in ways its not used, might see 15,000. Dealer will pretend 20,000 is possible For those not aware.... you can't drive without this stuff it will shutdown to protect the ad blu system.... Usually best to fill full at first warning (but check the handbook). If you try
  10. how good the engine you get is down to two things, 1) luck of the draw, when they picked up all the parts to make the engine how close to "ideal" specification were the components. Normally you get an average mess that's OK, sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you get a duff one 2) then its down to how it left the building and ended up in the owners hands, and what they then did to it. During that journey how well it settled down "as it was run in" matters, abuse on a poorer than average engine and it could go bang or be troublesome, likewise drive too gently on a great engine and d
  11. there's almost no way, it will turn off and throw that info, without storing the reason in its fault list - sounds like the kit you mechanic has is inadequate.... software doesn't usually create faults (I thought they save that trick just for Mercedes - when they leave the factory with timed in fun, to make you go back to the main dealerships...) . With modern cars such a pain to work on - it needs proper kit and if that's not getting the results, you need to go for a drive with decent kit attached and view live data and see if you can see what faults happen as it stops. All I can
  12. Botus

    Autolock

    we had one a few weeks ago, he swapped the clutch switch back to normal - of course it must cut with the clutch, you might destroy the engine or crash although with active cruise it re-engages I gather - but then the radar should manage the gap
  13. did the rears work before the swap? mine had one die about the 9 year mark, then next about 12 years, its normal on the back for some "strange reason" - replaced with second-hand ones i forget, I think the silver frame ones die the gold frame ones don't - obviously UK cars get the designed to fail iteration - german market get longer life ones
  14. if you have the bigger trim by the interior mirror with the mic hole u should have a loom... (it might be hidden with no module attached.... ) earlier cars had fewer wires (as wasn't designed to do stereo music only mono phone), you can add the extras and swap to the later BT box of tricks if you have nothing buy off ebay for 40 quid, a fake VW one ... minor reallocation of certain pins and addition of 4 new wires and you have the £239 retrofit loom ready to go BVC module 8M5T-19C112-AN, AP, AR, AS, AT etc ebay for the cheapest around £100, after AR gets a real usable USB so
  15. there is some magic on my older 57 plate 5 speed manual... it knows what gear its in. Not sure how.???... after swapping the GEM, I realise this stupid car won't engage cruise in 2nd gear anymore (let alone the stupidity of the higher min set point and cancelling if you ask it to drop to 19mph, like it used too happily). I used to use where needed, for speed bump infested 20 mph zones So for your car I guess somehow either a software update to match what it needs, or a configuration change is required to tell it about 6th ???
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership