Botus

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    195
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Botus

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Botus
  • Ford Model
    Focus Mk2
  • Ford Year
    2007
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Berkshire

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Botus

    1.6 Focus Ecoboost whine...

    you are aware these go bang regularly with turbo failure? I would sort before you need a new engine.... it might be pricey needing a turbo…. but a turbo and an engine plus fitting is 3 -5 k more
  2. Botus

    Whirring sound on left hand corners?

    wheel bearing cv joint
  3. Botus

    Race exhaust

    I put these points in post about an induction kit a few weeks ago.... almost word for word this applies to the benefits of fitting an upgraded exhaust if you have a turbo, a well made, well fitted induction kit will work together with a remap to extract a few more horse power that 99% of the time you will never use. if its a NA car an induction kit will rob a fair bit of vital torque, in the range of 1000 to 3500 rpm that you want every drive, and will replace it with 2 BPH at 3000 you can't possibly notice and if lucky give 7 BHP at 5000 rpm that at best you'll use for 10% of your life (if you suddenly change and like wasting petrol). it will invalidate your insurance, make and antisocial noise, on a motorway it may drone to such an extend you will regret it and might cause issues with the way the car runs in bad weather (extreme cold and or rain) For road use, it would be far more pleasant to drive, safer and much faster if you invested in a matching set of premium brand tyres (in the standard size), get the geometry set on all 4 wheels and work on optimising tyre pressures to get handling characteristic you like. If you have money left over an upgraded set of expensive adjustable dampers retaining the original spring rates and close to std ride height would be another idea to help you go faster NOTE:...you will most likely unlock twice the power by doing a full service (filter, plugs oil) and running a decent synthetic brand of oil at manu spec and pumping up the tyres sorry to be an old boring ***** but lowered springs, a loud exhaust, 19" wheels and cheap mismatching unbranded tyres rubbing on the arches is about 10 seconds a lap slower (and you need at least 15BHP gain to actually feel it on the road) On this engine you can get a remap for about the cost of an exhaust, it will give a bit more bottom end drivability (well worth having) a small bit in the mid range, and a noticeable bit at the top. an exhaust or and induction kit will almost certainly rob you of power everywhere you will be using it (it will sound faster but WILL be slower) those two performance extras will give you nothing aside from 5 to 10 BHP at 6000rpm full throttle work... MOST cars just need the driver to press the throttle earlier or for longer.... outside a competition environment performance parts just make it slower, nosier and cr*p
  4. Botus

    horrible pull away

    I'd check with superchips before loading a previous original map over a new genuine one.... on my BMW they said never do it, it will brick the car.... they were happy to wipe the bluefin and give an approved map suitable for the later BM map for free so you start afresh
  5. Botus

    Bonnet lock

    mk2.5 does it , as this guy explains the silly bit of plastic is a misnomer.... if you can pop the bonnet and release the catch by turning the key 45 to 60 degrees per side you should be fine. If you are reaching the 90 degrees limit and either is only just releasing the bowden cable is crap and you need a new one
  6. Botus

    head lights

    its on the apple phone in the video.... 12min if I remember right
  7. advanced.... if they were shorting and with a massive gap between the posts the bulbs don't appear to be, how come the one that was definitely OK still didn't work. That's not advanced that's blo0dy dangerous obviously as have been moved about whilst taken out and sat in the boot for 3 miles the bulbs may not be in the condition they were…. but checking continuity just now both bulbs are open circuit on both brake light filaments
  8. Botus

    head lights

    no, I think he means Mk2 has totally chrome set up inside the light cluster, where the mk2.5 had black with only the reflector chromed.... looks much better/modern on the later one there an aftermarket xenon kit, which if you fit, needs you need to split open the whole cluster.... but might be better to either get a pair of later ones, or a set of later ones with damaged lens and break apart, messing with the chrome....(unless you mask up and spay it), will look worse
  9. Took the mk2.5 focus in for an MOT, part way through bloke say you've got no brake lights. I thought this a little odd as just the week before I knew all 3 where working 100%. Rang owner and asked if 20 mins beforehand was the cruse working when she had driven home from work, it was. (whilst I get the second brake light switch is to cancel cruise if you brake, it ought to be part of the brake light circuit having assumed the three stop light bulbs must ALL be independent). Looked at the two pedal switches, both connected up and mechanically operating. Now having been out of motor tech world for 30 years and (unfortunately) owning a Merc, where its standard on every one ever made for them to regularly have brake light switch failure, I was already wondering if this was the problem. This was exacerbated when I asked the MOT bloke what he thought was wrong, he instantly said "brake light switch as you've lost all three". When I said is it common, he said "all day long go to ECP and get one". So then I ask, will they have one in stock? "Yes" he replied. So with 30 mins before closing, I nip a mile up the road, noticing cruise control works and cancels as it should, give Reg number and get a brake light switch. Go to fit, its the wrong one, elec connection won't fit either multiplug on the car. Take it back get the other switch, which I now know will at least fit one of them. Wire (not fit) the new switch on the lower of the two multiplugs, no brake lights, drive up the road cruise still working !!! So its go nothing to do with the switches, great wasted an hour! Get to parents house round the corner try to find fuse. The Manual is at a different house ! No idea which is which, so start to test all, inaccessible, too dark, struggle like hell. 20 mins later having checked 50% of them including all 20 amp ones, I give up as can't see what I'm doing. Parents wake up and I get on their PC and a LED torch. On the internet and eventually find a fuse list, 15 amp fuse 132. Can't read the number …. magnifying glass and 5 mins hunting 132 is OK, so another 30 mins wasted! So then decide to start checking the basics, unscrew left rear light cluster.... bulb well popped. Get a pair of stop tail light bulbs and fit a new one on the left. No brake lights !!!! its not looking good. Pull the right cluster off the car, bulb blown, fit the second bulb ALL three brake lights now working. All of which means, I'm a total knob and Ford should be shot for wiring all three brake lights in series. How can this be legal in this day and age? Surely the middle light should at least be wired to the cruise switch on a totally separate circuit. If I was in gov NO car would be allowed to be wired like this.
  10. Botus

    Ford recall - software update clutch slip 18S07

    which probably means the whole clutch slip thing is a misnomer and all cars affected have dodgy emissions that where clearly illegal and we called it back to fix them (which is what I guessed the whole thing was about before you mention a change indicator is now totally different..... )
  11. Botus

    Induction Kit

    if you have a turbo, a well made, well fitted induction kit will work together with a remap to extract a few more horse power that 99% of the time you will never use. if its a NA car an induction kit will rob a fair bit of vital torque, in the range of 1000 to 3500 rpm that you want every drive, and will replace it with 2 BPH at 3000 you can't possibly notice and if lucky give 7 BHP at 5000 rpm that at best you'll use for 10% of your life (if you suddenly change and like wasting petrol). it will invalidate your insurance, make and antisocial noise, on a motorway it may drone to such an extend you will regret it and might cause issues with the way the car runs in bad weather (extreme cold and or rain) For road use, it would be far more pleasant to drive, safer and much faster if you invested in a matching set of premium brand tyres (in the standard size), get the geometry set on all 4 wheels and work on optimising tyre pressures to get handling characteristic you like. If you have money left over an upgraded set of expensive adjustable dampers retaining the original spring rates and close to std ride height would be another idea to help you go faster NOTE:...you will most likely unlock twice the power by doing a full service (filter, plugs oil) and running a decent synthetic brand of oil at manu spec and pumping up the tyres sorry to be an old boring ***** but lowered springs, a loud exhaust, 19" wheels and cheap mismatching unbranded tyres rubbing on the arches is about 10 seconds a lap slower (and you need at least 15BHP gain to actually feel it on the road)
  12. Botus

    Clutch issue?

    maybe the clutch is starting to wear out.... (and its slipping a bit), from a standing start tyre light up clutch copes with life, tyres warmed up a smidge and the clutch taking the full force into second (and giving up)
  13. Botus

    Ford recall - software update clutch slip 18S07

    maybe I got confused, thought the post was about DSG cars.... but maybe you guys ARE talking manual... I was rambling about the others..... can't say for ford, but def a dsg box is computer controlled, there's a whole host of clutch set up routines than can be performed to try and get things right. there are two fairly lightweight clutches in there and as BOTH gearboxes are usually in mesh there must be lots of safety stuff in software to ensure the teeth say put and you don't go leaving lots of black marks…. these are manual cars not autos.... they just have automated clutch and gear change ford UK are doing the dirty on customers, all other countries are doing the job properly, UK are extending warranty to 5 years and hoping most too stupid to talk about it, I think it goes back to 2011, wrong oil (VAG did the same) rots oil seals it leaks and they judder like hell. these cars should get a new gearbox a new clutch and new software.... as they got newer the leaks stopped, then the clutch material improved then the software got less bad
  14. you must take out the broken clutch and inspect it.... if its in as new condition but with a broken spring or similar failure..... then ECP have to refund and pay labour, they can't really wriggle out of that if they try, screw them in small claims court where you will win.... start to note down each time you have written, each journey all cost incurred by their selling of faulty parts and put all these costs in the claim …. when you get north of £2500 and manage to get a written letter to the right guy at ECP they will give u 600 quid they are not morons....
  15. my sisters door mirror was allegedly modified by a passing vehicle, so she goes to her main dealer and they tell her she needs a new one £220 (electric, heated and folding), when she goes to pick up the car they say there you go all done.... but it doesn't work you'll need to pay 30 mins diagnostics and 30 mins to take off the door trim.... after a small chat, they keep the car overnight and by 16:00 they ring to say come get the car all done and now working (no additional charge)….. when her mate said so why didn't it work the day before.... oh it wasn't programmed. I ran a quick check for faults and 8 modules thought the world was still ending with low voltage after her alternator had died 2 days prior to the mirror issue (both battery and alternator replaced - before the visit for a new mirror) So I have a few questions. 1) do you really have to inform the door control module you have replaced the mirror ? if so since when did ford become Mercedes of 12 years ago? 2) do you think the ***** just dropped the loom and or never bothered to connect it up? 3) if they really had to plug the car in to fix the mirror (which they are both charging to buy and fit....) would it not be responsible to clear all the codes? below are two which I don't believe are related to low voltage issue, the first I think was the door control module U201387-28 switch pack (cleared and stayed away) B1 D55:1 5-2F Antenna 2 circuit (which was there when still in warranty, but she was too dim to take the car in) any thoughts on these codes or if the mirror should have just worked ?