Albert27

True Ford Enthusiast
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Albert27 last won the day on March 6 2017

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About Albert27

  • Rank
    Too much time on the boards

Profile Information

  • First Name
    David
  • Ford Model
    Mk 2.5 Focus 1.6 tdci & Mk 3 1.6 tdci
  • Ford Year
    2013
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Worcestershire

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  1. I paid £286 (labour & parts) at a local independent (Midlands) for cambelt and water pump two years ago. Is the £330 just for the parts? If so, that's ridiculous!
  2. I've used mine several times, no issues or signs of cracking. That said, i'm little skeptical about plastic even high grade plastic (whatever that means) so i never fully trust them. Axle stands get placed loosely just incase the worst happened!
  3. Hi Sonic. Sorry I'm late to the party. I bought a set of ramps for the very reasons you mention and they are so much less hassle. I did some research and settled on these. I do still pop the axle stands loosely under the sills as a precaution but they've been great. It was similar to these:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/DURHAND-Plastic-Workshop-Automotive-Portable/dp/B07MBXRSXV/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=high+grade+plastic+car+ramps&qid=1592171799&sr=8-1 They don't scuff the bumper, and they don't move when driving up them.
  4. Try changing the Crankshaft sensor. The PCM may not distinguish very well between the two sensors and give a misleading DTC. Failing that could be the wiring that's at fault.
  5. As usual I'm late to the party but at least I beat @iantt 😄 I think the haynes torques are slightly out but don't worry. I think 27nm is the official torque for the tensioner? Is that right Ian? Can't remember the idler but probably similar. Mine is torqued to 30nm (didn't have a lower setting on my wrench 😄 ) and 10,000 miles later it's fine so don't worry.
  6. Hi and welcome 🙂 If you know what you're doing and have got the right tools, it's a pretty straightforward job. If you haven't got any experience or tools then you won't save much initially but long term the savings are huge if you DIY and are willing to learn.
  7. Yes there will be to overcome the compression. You'll feel resisitance and then it should go easier and then the process repeats 🙂
  8. Yep, that's it, rotate the enging by hand 10 revolutions, check timing good. Fit new crank pulley bolt and you'll be good to start with cover off.
  9. I don't think it matters which way round you do it 🙂 The surface of the belt looks badly ripped - has the plastic caused that then do we think? I think the idler is torqued to 25nm but check the haynes manual, it should have it in there.
  10. Sorry I missed this, I've been locked out my account for a while but thanks for the heads up 😄 Nobody seems to know why there is a timing hole for the fuel pump, it's not part of the timing so don't worry about that. Is there any chance you over tightened the idler? What has actually happened to it - has the rubber outer wheel disintergrated? The belt looks in a bad way from it anyway! If you line up the crank and pin it, then remove the belt and make a minor adjustment to the cam using a ratchet on the cog (clockwise or anti clockwise), line it up with the timing hole and pin it. It's been two years since i did the job so please correct me someone if what I've suggested it not a good idea!! I'm pretty sure that's what I did when I'd misaligned mine. The cam and crank should line up every two revolutions iirc
  11. Hi Peter. Yes. It should be reading 13.5v to 14.8v when headlights, A/c etc are on. Hope that helps 🙂
  12. Hi Kevin. Yes, try changing the fuel filter first, could be a quick cheap fix. I'm not familiar with that diagnostic computer but if its a generic one it may well miss ford specific fault codes. Forscan is free to download, you just need a laptop/mobile and elm27 usb/bluetooth connection and it will pick up all the codes for sure.
  13. Is this suitable for an efb battery do you know?
  14. I wouldn't bother if you've gone 8000 and it's just a bit louder, it could just be normal engine noises. These are noisy engines. Are you 100% sure it's louder? Whenever I do a job on a car I hear noises I never heard before - a bit of DIY paranoia 😄 Did the timing all line up when you did the job originally? The fuel pump mark is irrelevant, its not even part of the timing on these, so don't worry about that. It would just be the cam and crank marks if there was a problem.