Luke4efc

True Ford Enthusiast
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Luke4efc last won the day on April 4

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About Luke4efc

  • Rank
    Hit It With A Hammer

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Luke
  • Ford Model
    Focus ST-3
  • Ford Year
    2009
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Lancashire
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Restoration
    Car Modification
    Road Trips
    Computers & Electronics

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Well if it doesn't happen with the air filter fitted then what's the problem? Why are you running the engine without one anyway haha
  2. I mean if you gave us the reg and engine fitted we could just tell you if it's an Econetic. First off, duratec are the petrol engines. I'm guessing you've either used the wrong VIN, or you mean duratorq which are the diesel engines. Secondly, there's duratorq, and doratorq ECOnetic. Basically if it says duratorq, it doesn't mean that it's not an ECOnetic too. And finally the bit you actually wanted to read, ETIS doesn't tell you whether it's an econetic. However if car parts websites and the dealer says it is, then it will be.
  3. No. Different manifolds, no DPF, CAT will get clogged up quite quickly. Rear diffuser differences mean the tips wont fit.
  4. Thermostat housing is known to leak, as is the expansion tank which can develop micro cracks. You cant even really see these cracks with the naked eye so have to just replace it really. Wouldn't expect that to be cracked after 5 years though. Never heard of the turbo leaking though, it's usually the oil seals that leak.
  5. If it's a like for like replacement then it's plug and play, no programming required. That's if they work the same as ours in the UK.
  6. Have you modified it at all? If so I've heard of it yes, the pistons are the weakest point. However it's not all that common really. You'll always hear about horror stories no matter what engine you find. Having said that, those engines are crap compared to the bullet proof Volvo's fitted to the previous generation. Those engine's are good for at least 320hp on stock internals.
  7. You'll have a gaping hole in the bottom right where your exhaust tips stop a foot short of the bumper.
  8. See how much more miles cost, and see how much a new insurance policy is. You're looking at about 12k miles per year at that rate. You'll probably find a new policy with more miles isn't much more expensive, especially if you get one that isn't strict on it and don't have to buy miles.
  9. The problems with the EcoBoost engines were a sudden loss of all its coolant causing it to overheat etc. I'd stick with de-ioned water though to help prevent corrosion long term.
  10. If you have regular halogen lights then it is more complicated than plug and play. Xenon lights are auto adjusting and need washers too. You'll not pass your MOT without these.
  11. If you're only topping it up a little, you'll be fine just adding some de-ionised water. It wont affect the coolant to water ratio enough to make a difference in reality.
  12. Nope you cant view your phones map screen, even with the sat nav unit. That unit I'd a standalone sat nav unit that uses SD cards which store the maps. It isn't possible to retrofit this to a pre-facelift Fiesta. The only cars that let you view your phones map on the display are those with apple car play etc.
  13. My mk7 had a brake pedal that might aswell have been an on/off switch. You had to brake very gently to not give yourself whiplash.
  14. Sounds like it's stripped a gear. They're only plastic so do tear off quite easily.
  15. Currently got my Focus in bits changing the cambelt, but just wanted to know if anyone on here knows the differences in the tensioners fitted. I was told that on the RS, Ford fitted an automatic spring type (like on the aux belts), where as the ST had the manual type fitted where you line a tab up against 2 points for the correct tension. When I removed the cover on mine, the automatic type has been fitted. I'm guessing that either Ford started fitting automatic tensioners to the later engines, or the cambelt has been changed before I took ownership. This wasn't recorded anywhere, and the aux belts are dated 2009. Long story short, anyone know if there's a date on the Volvo cam belt? I'd have thought you can decode the batch number to find the date. Doesn't really make much difference since it's all in bits now and might aswell be changed (curse this stupid water pump), but it would be nice to know.