andy1741

Thanks so much guys. I got the soldering work done and using your directions I replaced the gauge needles. Car is running absolutely fine and gauged are all spot on. All DTC codes reset too. I’ll monitor the car over the next few weeks to make sure that there is no intermittent issues. All looks good though!

Thanks for the information. I followed a video that did show me how to take the cluster out and disassemble. I have managed to get it down to the circuit board but I need a mate’s help with the soldering as I don’t own a soldering iron myself nor have the skills. I’ll hopefully get this sorted over the weekend. I originally followed this video on the disassembly: subsequently I saw this video: In the second video there is a lot more care given to the gauge needle removal. You also mention this here. I took the former video approach and just twisted them in the opposite direction and pried them off. I guess the damage is done now but have I goosed this? I’m hoping it’s not a case were I’d have to recalibrate the gauges using forscan or similar? For reassembly is it just a case of setting the needle at say the 0 MPH position and it’ll be sorted? I’d hate to be caught doing 70 in a 50 etc!!

Thanks Jonathan. Delighted to hear it sounds like a common fault. Felt like i was doomed with all the different codes. I'll try give the dash a bang but assuming this isn't a permanent solution, is repairing the cluster something like a mere moral could do or is this best left to a professional?

Hi guys. I have a 2009 MK 2.5 Ford Focus 1.6 TDCI Zetec. I've been having an issue with the car recently. After washing the car (no idea if this detail has had any impact) I went for a short 3-mile drive. No problems. The next day I tried to start the car and it didn't engage the starter, it had an error on the dash: "Engine Malfunction" "Power Steering Malfunction": I tried a few times turning the ignition on and off. No change. I tried a "miraculous" solution. I got out pushed the car forward a couple of inches, tried again and it started. Driving felt normal. It started and drove fine for the next few days and then this occurred again 3 days ago and again the day after that. I checked the codes, and these were present (full log attached): PCM DTC P1622-21 - Immobilizer ID Does Not Match PCM DTC U0073-21 - CAN communication bus fault PCM DTC P193B-24 - Throttle/Pedal Signal PCM DTC P1936-24 - Clutch switch input circuit malfunction PCM DTC P1935-24 - Brake Switch/Sensor Signal PCM DTC P1934-24 - Vehicle Speed Signal PCM DTC P0500-24 - Vehicle Speed Sensor A FACM DTC U1900-20 - CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error FACM DTC U2516-20 - CAN Communication Bus Fault - Transmit Error FACM DTC P2409-60 - Fuel Cap Sensor/Switch Circuit Range or Performance ABS DTC U2202-A0 - Configuration Error ABS DTC U1900-A0 - CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error EPS DTC U0073-20 - CAN communication bus fault IC DTC U1900-20 - CAN communication bus fault IC DTC U2510-20 - CAN communication bus fault P2409-60 has been on the car since I bought it and I believe is related to that fact that the previous owner had the DPF gutted. I'm a bit stumped and I don't know what steps I can take next before I go to a garage. Would anyone have any suggestions? I know the DTC codes can sometimes be misleading and triggered due to a more central issue (e.g. bad battery etc.). If anyone has any ideas on what to try, I'd really appreciate it. I'm a bit desperate here. I can provide more troubleshooting info too. Scan20230412.txt

This worked like a charm. Thanks very much!

Sounds strange but I'll try the solution anyway. I'll let you know how I get on.

Oh brilliant, could it be then that the key fob has just some how lost it's programming? Just apply this and it should be be back to normal? If that is the case, i'll try this when I get home from work.

Yes it was a cheap battery from a euro shop. Not sure how this would make a difference in it not working at all? I could understand if it didn't last as long. How did you do this? was it a new key?

Hi All, MK2.5 Focus Zetec 1.6 TDCI (non-keyless entry) 125k miles. I'm hoping this a simple issue and I'm just missing something basic. The key fob for my car stopped working yesterday. None of the buttons do anything on the car. It was quite strange. I unlocked the car using the key fob button as usual after work, after a 20 min drive home, got out and went to lock the car with the key fob as usual and then just nothing... Tried opening it up and changing the battery to a brand new one, giving it a quick brushing, messing with the circuit board directly on the battery (checking if it was an issue with the contacts) and no luck. This is literally the first time I have ever had any issue with the key fob in the 3 years I've owned it. I've never even opened it before. I have not noticed any diminish in the operating range either which made me suspect the battery might be a red herring. Anyone have any ideas? Or suggestions to try?

Grand job, sounds simple. Kit has been ordered anyway. Thanks very much for the help.

Agreed... Seems pointless. Brillaint, I see the hardwire kit for sale at a decent price. I'm not expert in electronics on the car. Is this the fusebox user the bonnet or the glovebox? Do you remember how long the whole process took? Do you remember which position the rear fog lights fuse is?

Hi All, First of all, I own a 2009 Ford Focus 1.6 TDCI Zetec. Just got my first dashcam as a gift for christmas. I have a Nextbase 212 (Pretty decent for the price if anyone is looking!). I've wired this up in the simplest way just using the cigarette lighter port in the arm rest compartment. From looking at the footage from the camera, I can see that the camera is continuously recording 24/7. It seems that the camera is continuously given power even when the ignition is off for some time. I have a couple of questions: Will this affect the battery by draining it when not in use? I often don't use the car for the 3 or 4 days at a time and this would obviously cause issues. Is this normal for this car? My father has a fiat punto with the same camera, in his car it will cut power to the camera and turn it off when he turns the iginition off. Is there anyway to replicate the above scenario for my car if indeed this is normal functionality? I guess if there is no risk in draining the battery, it's not really a massive issue except that it'll be recording 8 hours of garbage every night & day while i'm at work or sleeping. Note that I'm trying to avoid the scenario of plugging it out/in every time. This is just too tedious to do every single time.

This seems suspicious to me too. It seems ridiculous design that this could ever happen by just babying the car too much. Is it possible that this could be caused by overfilling the oil? The smoke was light grey, definitely not dark or blue. I was not able to smell the smoke as you are stuck in a confined waiting area with just a window to view the test. This is a DPF model but the DPF has been gutted by the previous owner.

If there is significantly more than a half a cup of oil in the intercooler is that safe to assume that the turbo oils seals are bust then? As i said originally the car doesn’t consume a whole lot of oil at all, is it possible that this is just an accumulation over time and if I drain it, it should be good for a retest?

Thanks I'll look at this. Would you expect any oil at all in the intake pipe?