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About dom550

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    Settling In Well

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    Fiesta 1.0 Ecoboost 125
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  1. Cheers, that makes sense (steel wheels cutting into a softer nut). My steel wheels actually don't have a taper that the nuts go into though - the nuts just sit flat against the wheel, there's a picture a few posts up - so I'd think it should be fine.
  2. Excellent, thanks for that. So they're saying to only use nuts from alloys together with the spare steel wheel for two weeks max. I wonder whether that applies to all steel wheels, or if they're just referencing the fact that the spare wheel itself should only be used for two weeks max. Don't suppose you have any idea whether there could be an issue which applies to using the nuts with regular steel wheels for more than two weeks? I can't think of anything, personally.. 🤨
  3. Thanks guys. I am planning on going back to alloys again after. I don't think the wheel nuts from my alloys are the same as the ones mentioned in the TSB - don't think mine have a "loose tapered ring". So that removes the possibility of building up dirt in the gap (which is apparently only there if they have the loose ring). The only thing which looks problematic is "Wheel nuts from aluminium wheels must ONLY be used on steel rims in the case of short term use of the spare wheel" - not sure whether that's a universal rule or just talking about the type of alu nuts mentioned in this TSB.
  4. I put one of the steel wheels on the car to see whether or not the nuts sit properly - here's a picture with some of the nuts on. As far as I could tell, it seemed to be ok, and I was able to torque them up to the spec (100 lb/ft I think, but I forget - whatever it says in the handbook!). I'm not sure how it looks, but I don't think the narrow cone-shaped ends of the nuts are actually going inside the wheel, just up against it. Unless anybody's got any concerns about how this looks, I'll probably just go for it.. 😶
  5. I've just checked, and the nuts which currently hold my alloys on look like this: The steel wheels I'm wanting to fit are these: You mentioned checking whether the nuts are conical to see whether they fit into the steel wheels. I think that's a conical nut(?) but the wheels seems to come outward where they make contact with the nuts, rather than having something which the nuts go into, as you mentioned. There is a very thin inward-sloping bit in the middle of each hole, but I think this might be a different design to what you're talking about - the nuts don't go into those, they make contact with the furthest-out part which sticks out of the wheel. Do you (or anybody else reading this) know whether these can be used together happily? Cheers!
  6. Thanks guys, that's what I was hoping for (that it's not enabled). Good to have it confirmed before spending the cash on new wheels, just in case 😀
  7. Hi there. Thanks for the info, but I actually already knew the difference between the two, and I don't want to enable it 😉 it's really just the two questions at the end of my post which I'm interested in!
  8. I've got a 63-plate Fiesta Titanium, from reading the forums I get the impression that that age may or may not have TPMS/DDS fitted. There are no options to do with tyre pressure in my radio settings under Vehicle Settings. And while there is a warning light on the dashboard, it never actually lights up when starting the car - I only knew it was there from looking very closely! And it illuminates when I do the LED diagnostic test to make everything on the dash light up. 1) Does this mean my car doesn't have it, and the LED is just present cause the dash lights are standard? 2) Even if it is fitted, how annoying are the warnings? If I want to drive steel wheels for a while, am I just expecting a light on the dash, or does it cause a constant warning noise or anything more annoying? Car manual suggests it would be an "information" message (rather than a warning), so guessing it's probably not too bad, but would be to good to know before going ahead. Cheers!
  9. Thanks for that, I'll take a nut off and have a look. Not 100% sure I'll know what I'm looking for, might post a photo for advice! But I'm assuming it'll be easy to buy 16 nuts which are suitable for the steelies, if my current ones aren't..
  10. I've got a 2013 Fiesta Titanium with the standard 16 inch alloys, like this: I'm thinking about getting some steel wheels, and I'm aware that different wheel nuts are sometimes required for steelies. Is there any way to know in advance whether that'll be the case, or does it depend on the wheel that turns up? Cheers 🙂
  11. Sorry, just seen these replies - didn't get notifications for some reason! I got the job done with the tool that I linked in my first post - 14mm (thread size, not hex/socket size, as mentioned by isetta) bi-hex thin-wall socket 👍
  12. It's time to swap my spark plugs, just wondering what size socket I need. I know there are different ways to measure spark plugs sizes which can cause a bit of confusion, I'm not completely sure I get it, so spell it out for me assuming I'm thick please! 2013 Fiesta, 1-litre ecoboost, the Titanium 125 version. The replacement plugs I've bought are part 1770305. I've been told a thin-wall 14mm socket, like this - just hesitant because the listing doesn't mention Ford at all. Thanks in advance 🙂
  13. I do somewhere - I'll dig it out and PM you in a sec!
  14. Realise this thread's settling down a bit, but I started posting about my problems here a few months ago and thought I may as well finish. So my turbo pipes and degas hose were in a bit of a state - see here and here. I went to a dealer (Peoples Ford Falkirk) as soon as I realised I had a problem, described what I'd read online, and asked if it was anything they'd heard about. This was over a weekend, I hadn't had a chance to talk to talk to CRC yet, it was more just out of curiousity to see what the dealer said. The person I dealt with pretty much treated me like an idiot, scoffed "why would Ford pay for that?!", and stuck to the line that were no outstanding recalls or TSBs on the car. I still don't entirely understand why, since I hadn't gone in there aggressively - I knew that it wasn't their fault and that I'd need them on my side to take the case to Ford CRC, and I'd approached with that in mind. I also made it clear that I felt I should get it sorted regardless of whether it was me or CRC paying for it, so I'm not sure why they were so averse to the possibility of some paid work coming their way. Anyway, I later raised it with CRC, who, as expected, asked me to take it to a dealer. I booked in with the same garage as before, hoping they'd take it more seriously. They got in touch to let me know that they'd looked at it, and there was "nothing abnormal" with the parts in question. Yes, these are the same parts that I linked above. I told them I was only happy continuing to drive it if I had that in writing from them. They gave me it in writing. I told CRC that I wasn't happy with the diagnosis, and that I wanted a different dealer to look at it. I booked it into Park's Ford Stirling, and the guy I dealt with there was great. He hadn't come across the exact issue before, but realised that it could be an issue that was worth looking into, rather than being weirdly defensive about it. The first time CRC came back to him, they said they could offer me the treatment with the resin stuff and a £50 voucher off future servicing! I refused, and gave the dealer case reference and TSB numbers that I'd got from members of this forum. I pointed out the resin seemed to be prevention rather than cure, and that my car was needing more done because of the state that it was in. He agreed that he couldn't guarantee that the resin would be a proper fix, and I used that to keep asking him to request / recommended a turbo swap from CRC, due to the safety concerns of a potentially-exploding turbo. It may have gone back and forth again here, I forget, but I think I had to refuse another offer from CRC at this point. But as soon as the dealer properly asked CRC for a turbo swap, it got approved pretty much instantly! It seems that Ford are prepared to do it - they just need a very clear signal from a dealer that it is actually required, which makes sense. FWIW, none of the TSB numbers posted previously (before my last post, anyway) were relevant to the problem, but I think the case numbers of other people who'd had turbo swaps due to the same issue did possibly help. So I'm happy with the outcome overall. Only real lessons from the story are.. do get case reference numbers and be nice to your dealer, because you absolutely need them on your side. And don't go to Peoples in Falkirk.
  15. Thanks for that. I've had mine, which looks like this, at a dealer and been told that it's absolutely fine; just a little bit of surface rust and nothing abnormal. Same story with the de-gas hose apparently. I'm going to try another dealer, because I'm obviously pretty worried about potential engine failure by coolant loss while driving. I might mention that TSB number; was wondering if you also have a CRC number or anything which might come in handy for helping explain to a dealer that this is actually quite serious, if they haven't come across it before? Don't suppose you have any other reference numbers relating to the issue? Mine's not looking good (there are some photos linked just above in this post) but the dealer I took it to said there was nothing wrong with it. Just trying to get as much info as possible for the next dealer I take it to. @2013Ecoboost Also wondering if you could help with that - do you have any CRC case numbers or anything relating to your turbo swap that I could reference? Thanks all.