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isetta last won the day on December 29 2017

isetta had the most liked content!


About isetta

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    Fiesta Style 1.5tdci Econetic 2015 year
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  1. not sure what the striker plates look like on these, but they are usually adjustable, loosen slightly and move outwards by eg. 1mm
  2. it has been known for metal intercooler pipe to crack on these where a bracket is welded to it. I am sure I have seen it on this forum
  3. isetta


    This might not be your problem but this is the problem I had. On my Fiesta it has aux (3.5mm line in ) , USB and Bluetooth. I could not understand how it worked but I did not realise you have to press the Aux button multiple times to select which input you wanted. And then someone on this forum told me.
  4. Don't you just hate it when threads / advice does not show what the conclusion was. So here goes: Yipee! Car is now running again. Started by doing Ohm test on OBD socket. It showed 120 (so a break somewhere). I looked at the engine fuse box connector (c90) looked OK. Took the trim panel off just ahead of the front passenger door. There were two big block connectors here. A larger black one and a smaller grey one below it. The black one did not seem to have canbus (grey/red and blue/red thin wires) in it. The grey one did. There was some minor corrosion in the grey one. Cleaned it up. Ohms still showing 120. (this car is a mk2.5 so maybe different to what peter describes) back to c90 . whilst my brother watched the ohmeter i pulled c90 in and out and found that intermittently the ohms dropped to 60. I concentrated on the two pins for the canbus wires (grey/red and blue/red thin wires). they looked OK but ohms weren't steady. so what I did here was bent the two pins with thin nosed pliers into a slight curve to create more contact pressure. I also took the red plastic insert out of the bottom of the plug, then squashed the connectors a little and put red bit back in. After doing this the ohms seemed steady 60. But after putting tools away found car failed to start again and ohms back to 120. Now got to work on the grey connector ahead of passenger door again. Found contact intermittent here so gave those contacts same treatment as c90. car now seems OK (optimistic but it's only just been done and not had a long test). The contact cleaner I was using dries very quickly and leaves no residue. Would in be better if the terminals had something on them like vaseline/petroleum jelly applied sparingly? Thanks Peter, my brother was on the verge of towing the car to the scrapyard. Hope it keeps going fine, at least if it plays up again we have some idea of what to twiddle with at the roadside. If these connectors cause more trouble I think bypassing them with some long lengths of wire soldered on will give more confidence that it won't keep doing it.
  5. if it was mine I would put a fault code reader on it to see if any fault codes registered. Don't know if you have had a Focus mk2 before or read up on them. A lot of them have problems with the soldering within the speedo console / instrument cluster which has computer chips in which can affect a whole multitude of things including intermittent faults
  6. Yes I did see that on website. On the can it is worded differently but still oddly, It seems to be saying not to spray it on electrical stuff that is actually functioning / live at the time.
  7. I have now bought this one (£6 with the MID60 discount code) Eurocarparts (normfest)- Perhaps I was influenced by the name TermClean which makes it sound like it is intended to mean Terminal Cleaner which is what I want and the pic on the can shows it being sprayed into a terminal block connector. Some products say no residue. This one does not give much of a clue about it. Smells like cellulose thinners when I spray it. Not used on any electrical connectors yet. I seem to recall years ago (over 30 yrs ago) someone told be that for protection is was best to put vaseline (petroleum jelly) on the electrical connectors to protect them from future corrosion). I know that is quite widely said in relation to car battery terminals but I mean block connectors etc - has anyone got any views on that (eg. if it does more harm than good)
  8. re my earlier reply. I assumed it broke above the threaded part and the threaded part was still there. I see your problem. So if you put the three new glow plugs in and started the engine, the broken bit might shoot out of the hole like a bullet. However I don't think I would reccommend trying that. It could be quite dangerous. Or you could screw the broken bit back in and leave that one like that. But would the broken bit ever loosen and work its way into the cylinder which would be a disaster and damage piston etc I mention these two things in case you had thought of them but not thought of the potential downsides of them.
  9. Thanks. If the weather’s good next bit of work on it will be Tuesday evening
  10. Did the broken one come part way out or snap at the start. I don't know the answer, but I don't think one dud glowplug will make the car unusable. I think the worst you will suffer is a slightly uneven tickover when cold and a small amount of smoke when cold. Replace three and keep your fingers crossed. assuming the broken one did not come almost all the way out
  11. If I have a car with electrical problems and I want to check every electrical socket/plug. Is it best to spray electrical contact cleaner into every plug and socket even if they look ok? If i use normal WD40 (not the one which says contact cleaner, just the normal one on supermarket shelves) does that a) help b) harm c)neither. If I use an aerosol that says on it that it is contact cleaner are they all pretty much the same or are there good and bad ones? is there a particular formulation that I should look for (I don't know if they even say on them what might be in the can but safety data sheets might say). Should it be left to dry before putting the plug and socket back together. halfords product -$ja=tsid:94971|cid:865695751|agid:43902126855|tid:aud-297219198449:pla-327738376470|crid:202397318382|nw:g|rnd:17160340804096052952|dvc:c|adp:1o4|mt:|loc:1006565&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9KKBvPT_4gIVBYjVCh3_-Q-REAQYBCABEgLahvD_BwE Toolstation (ac90)- A more expensive Toostation one (megawash) - Screwfix (wd40) - Eurocarparts (normfest)- another eurocarparts (wynns) - another eurocarparts (holts) - (I have another post on this forum about the specific issues with the car so i won't go into that here) I would appreciate any advice from anyone on this (the retailers I have shown are ones local where I can get to the same day)
  12. Thanks Peter, I was hoping you would reply. I had forgotten about checking the ohms (I have seen you mention this many times before). I do have a suitable multimeter. "Two are low down under the trim panel just in front of the front passenger door". I think you mean the panel that would to the left of the passengers left foot. Will have a look there. "and the big connector inside the engine bay fusebox." do you mean the one in the top of the engine fuse box which is visible when taking the lid off the fusebox? There are a load of wires going into the bottom of that fusebox also that I can't seem to get to. I do have a soldering iron and some experience of soldering (replacing failed capacitors on countless computer motherboards) so if the connectors do not show a problem I will get the speedo console out and dismantle (I have seen youtube videos on this). Are you aware of any basic tests I can carry out on the ecu with a multimeter on various pins? Are the ECUs known to fail? I see there are ECUs for sale on ebay but mostly without a key. But a ECU without the key (immobiliser chip in the key) is no good to anyone is it? or am I misunderstanding. Thanks for your advice. I will let you know of any progress but it might not be for a few days.
  13. There is often confusion here. When people refer to programming keys there are two different aspects. One is programming the transponder chip one is programming the remote buttons. Programming transponder (immobiliser) chip is the one where you need two working keys . If buying a key on eBay. Be careful to identify what you are buying. A lot of them are just the empty casings for people to refurbish their tatty keys (no circuit board inside)
  14. My brother's 2008 Focus mk2.5 1.8tdci. A few days ago he is driving and car loses all power, will only tickover, throttle not doing anything. he turns engine off and tries restart but starter motor will not work, immobiliser light flashing constantly and dash says engine malfuction. Car is recovered to his house. I go there with my Tunnelrat fault code reader. car exactly the same (starter motor will not work, immobiliser light flashing constantly and dash says engine malfuction.). He has two keys, both behave the same. Fault code reader won't communicate with car. After turning ignition on and off many times and unplugging and plugging in fault code reader many times the car suddenly decides it will start and the fault code reader shows p2263 Turbo signal above max and U2023 communication network fault ABS module. These are the same fault codes that have been appearing for months when the car did run (cleared many times and always reappeared). So don't appear to be directly related to this current problem. So he felt he could not use car in case it does the same thing again in a dangerous place (it was quite dodgy last time). So we are thinking there is an electrical connection problem. So we have removed the fuse box below the glovebox. Checked all connectors on it. Checked all relays and fuses are fitted properly. Opened up the fuse box to visually inspect the circuit board (BCM) in it. everything looks fine and put it all back in the car. We checked all fuses / relays were in the engine fuse box properly. checked the big plug that goes in the top of that fusebox. all appears to be ok. There are a lot of wires that go into the bottom of that fusebox. But i can't get that fusebox out. There is a one bolt that releases it but it is kind of held down by those cable looms going into the bottom of it. So I do not know if there could be a problem with a connector there. Is there an easy way to get this out that has eluded me? We accessed the ECU under the left front wheel arch liner. all of the three connector plugs there seem to be in good order. (four shear bolts on cover, could not shift with centre punch, no dremel tool for cutting slots in bolts - got cover off by hammering screwdriver into plastic around bolt heads to cut round each bolt.) We checked the huge plug connector on the top of the engine towards rear where the plug and socket are hold together with 10mm bolt. looks OK inside. Other sensor plugs unplugged and checked. Car is currently:- starter motor will not work, immobiliser light flashing constantly and dash says engine malfuction. He has two keys, both behave the same. Fault code reader won't communicate with car. So he is on the verge of towing it to the scrap yard, which seems such a shame. It does seem to be like this could just be an electrical connection problem - but where? one dodgy earth? but where? could it be it needs a new ECU? or a new BCM? Could this be the well known fault of the soldering in the speedo console (is that just earlier cars?). I have tried the pressing the speedo console in various places. I would love to be able to help him get this car going as he paid £850 for it last December and has no money. So one key point here is that currently the OBD code reader won't communicate with car - does that give a clue to a certain area to focus on? Any helpful comments gratefully received
  15. I have no idea how easy it is to get the thermostat out but if it was mine I reckon I would take the thermostat out and see what happens then . in the old days you could test a thermostat by putting it in a saucepan of water on the cooker with a thermometer in and see the temp when it opens. I do not know if modern cars still have this same style of wax capsule thermostat.