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About simonb65

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    Feet Under The Table

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  • Ford Model
    EDGE Sport (Lux) 210PS Nautilus Blue
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  1. simonb65

    Change from mph to km/h

    My bad! Didn't read the original post (mentioning the relocation). Doh!
  2. simonb65

    Change from mph to km/h

    Shouldn't need to pay at all, if it doesn't currently work, its a warranty issue!
  3. simonb65

    Upgrade maps to 2017 F7 version

    Referring back to my first post .. It explains which files go in what folder, It also shows what the contents of the autoinstall.lst file should be for each stick. Can't really explain it any clearer than that, sorry! Maybe you just need to read it through it again.
  4. simonb65

    Upgrade maps to 2017 F7 version

    Read this Topic, Page 1, 2nd Post (My first post on the updates)!! Download direct from the Ford servers, Its NOT using the Sync Update website. Using the Sync Update website wasn't what I suggested in my last post!
  5. simonb65

    Upgrade maps to 2017 F7 version

    You can try downloading the files you need (the large firmware files) direct from Ford. See my first post in this thread for details!
  6. simonb65

    Oil Level Low Warning

    Just put 250ml in it and let it settle. See where that took you to and add more if needed. Just because you buy 1L, doesn't mean you have to put it all in in one go!!
  7. simonb65

    Couple of queries re 2018 Edge Sport

    Reduced performance is usually because the camera can't see the signs (dirty upper central windscreen). There is a heater in there to to prevent fogging up, check if that is clearing the inside of the glass in the camera area. It also uses sat nav to supplement its speed zones too. Failing any issues, take it in for your dealer to look at. Someone has had a config issue which showed greyed out signs all the time.
  8. simonb65

    Quickclear front screen

    As a manufacturer, they want you to use Start-Stop to reinforce their 'Green' credentials!! It is a pain, but my start routine is to press the start button, go to the centre console and turn stop start off, put it in drive and release the park brake ... Its like second nature to me now, but I really don't like it when it stops the engine so quickly after stopping. As a side, I've noticed that if you put the car in reverse on a hill and release the brake, the car rolls back without being driven by the engine and it thinks the engine is not needed (forward speed is zero .. or less!)) 'cos the start-stop then stops the engine ... even though the car is still moving!! Bit of a software bug me thinks!!!
  9. simonb65

    Quickclear front screen

    Your short drive cycles and especially this time of year when the lights are on does sort the good batteries from the bad! However, I have worked on Auto Stop-Start systems for a number of automotive and off-road manufacturers, and I would say that the system is very complex and takes into account around 8 to 10 vehicle parameters (including engine mechanical service loads like A/C, HVAC state, engine oil temp, outside air temp, coolant temp, battery state, electrical load ... which in a lot of systems, is partially dumped during the stop start cycle), drive cycle duty times and frequency of those cycles. The system will not allow a stop (and hence a required subsequent start) to occur if any of those criteria is not met. I would not expect that to cause you issues with the battery unless there is a fault with one of the sensors that monitor battery state of charge. If that is indicating a better state than the battery really is, then that would be the only reason for what you are seeing or have been told. Most ECU's on modern vehicles consume less than 1mA (usually in the uA range) when in sleep mode or if not essential to security or entry/exit, are powered off altogether by another ECU. Drain on your battery when the car is asleep is usually less than 10mA total. You have around 24 ECU's in an EDGE. So does your camera have a sleep mode too? What does it draw when the car is asleep? What do they quantify as very low? If its only got a single power input I suspect it won't sleep as it doesn't know when to! ... unless it has a builtin motion sensor!
  10. simonb65

    Quickclear front screen

    First, I would find out where your 'professional' installers have tapped the power for the camera's from, then go from there. Rule out non-standard, recently added stuff, before thinking its something wrong with the car. The Left and right sides of the windscreen are fused and relay driven separately, so its something common to both, that leaves the GEM and whatever it needs in order to switch the heaters on, i.e. panel switch (although you can control it via Sync), supply voltage (influenced by battery state and alternator output). There is also the common ground to the windscreen elements. I would get a multi-meter on the fuse outputs and check to see if that's ok, then check the GEM ECU for any DTC's. If there is an over-current or open circuit element, you may have a fault code logged. There is also an option to Enable/Disable the front heated screen in the GEM, so that needs to be checked to ensure it hasn't been disabled (either accidentally or through corruption of the config)! You also mention 'Bristol Street' ... I would go somewhere else as I've never had a single good experience from them and their service/technical department is useless. So maybe take it to an independent Ford dealer who cares about its customers and the cars they service!
  11. simonb65

    Upgrade maps to 2017 F7 version

    Sounds like you need to use a better Ford dealer! All the sales staff at my local carry USB sticks with the Sync3 and Map updates ... I didn't even need to talk to service.
  12. simonb65

    Towing Capacity

    All the info you need including maximum towing capacity (and axle loads) for your specific vehicle are all printed on the VIN sticker that you will find stuck on the passenger or drivers door pillar.
  13. simonb65


    FORScan is the Ford/Lincoln specific software, which when used with a generic OBDII scan tool adapter that plugs into the diagnostic port in the car (by your right knee), will let you do a number of things to the ECU's in your car. It's primary function is to read and display any fault codes that may be present. FORScan software is available for PC, iPhone and Android and connects to the adapter via Bluetooth or WiFi depending on the adapter type you buy. Mine are Wifi, because it has a faster communication rate and my laptop doesn't have bluetooth! The PC/laptop version lets you do more, although you do need to pay a small fee for a license if you want to change ECU settings. You also need to know what your doing for the latter!! Reading codes is pretty straight forward and can enable you to figure out if you have any issues. One note is that the scan tools you can buy only look at a single CAN network (most cars since 2004). In the case of Ford, there are 2 CAN networks on the diagnostic connector High Speed CAN (HS_CAN) and Medium Speed CAN (MS_CAN). For Ford vehicles there are specific adapters with a HS/MS CAN switch on them. There are also plenty of websites that show you how to modify an standard adapter and put a switch in yourself. You need to see both CAN networks as most of the ECU's on the car are on one or the other but not both (although a few are). If you get a copy of the Service Manual (there are a few downloads on the web if you search for them!!) it lists all the fault codes and what you need to test/Fix or Replace in the event of one showing up. For the cost of the adapter, it gives you an understanding of what the problem may be and if you can fix it yourself, or at worst, verify what the dealer is telling you needs fixing and if your being taken for a ride (or if they really understand what they are doing!)
  14. simonb65

    Adaptive Headlight Warning on Dash

    Allan, Only saw it after I posted! DOh!
  15. simonb65

    Adaptive Headlight Warning on Dash

    Ignition cycles and/or a period of time where the fault isn't still present (i.e. an intermittent sensor) will clear the 'Active' faults on some systems (the ones that show up errors on your dash and in the case of an engine, put it into limp home mode), but the fault will still be logged in the ECU as 'Freeze Frame' data and that can only be cleared by resetting the codes in the ECU via a diagnostic tool. There are some faults that clear after a number of ignition cycles without the fault re-occurring, but there aren't many that have that strategy and I would certainly not expect a system that has roadworthy or safety legislation doing that. I've never seen that and I've been involved in vehicle diagnostics (car, trucks and construction) for 15+ years. If they want to see it, I suggest taking a photo of the dash when the fault pops up. that way you can just show it happens and then hand it over to them. The chances of you turning up with the fault still active sounds fairly remote! I would suggest getting yourself a cheap ()£5-£10) Wifi ODBII reader and FORScan (Free), then post any fault codes on here and we'll try and help you out.