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True Ford Enthusiast
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Everything posted by Jethro_Tull

  1. Mine is still on its originals, which is good going. If I ever needed to fit new ones I'd use Sikaflex, then they wouldnt be going anywhere. Ever. Handy tip - Fiesta MK6 items are identical, which widens the purchasing availability. They're prone to falling off the MK6 as well.
  2. I believe it's underneath, close to the tank, but I'm not certain . Memory is hazy.
  3. Try a massive dose of fuel system cleaner. BITD my Bothers XJ6 had a slight misfire and I couldn't get a grip on it. 4 bottles of Redex dumped in the tank as a last resort and a dozen miles later it was cured. If that doesn't work, throttle bodies and throttle pedals can go bad on them. Also check the compression, check you haven't got a burned valve or some such.
  4. Most definitely not used. Dig deep enough and they list parts for a Fusion 1.25, that was never made for any market.
  5. Could be, could be. How would you prove it without spending a load of cash on oil analysis though? Perhaps a dealer to avoid in the future?
  6. Most dealers meter in the oil, which (assuming the old oil was properly drained out) is more accurate than the dipstick. 5w20 is one of the recommended grades for your engine. Nothing to worry about.
  7. Nope. Neither Ford or PSA used a DMF on the DV4. Ditto the DV6 90, although some more powerful versions of the 6 did.
  8. Greetings Richard. I'm not aware of any having ever been produced for the Fusion.
  9. Whining noise under acceleration. Mother in Law?
  10. Yes, I been divorced. Going from a Boxster S to a Fusion taught me a lesson on several levels.
  11. I like to grab them by the hair and stamp on the accelerator. On a serious note, is Forscan worth getting hold of?
  12. It would seem that mine didn't get the memo.
  13. No Fusion had them. If yours has one then it's had a box and flywheel transplant from another vehicle.
  14. It's an old car with a big engine, not a good combination. On a sale to a regular buyer maybe £500. To a Ford enthusiast who hankers after such a machine maybe £1500-2000. Insurers will only ever give you book value, which is very poor (CAP only goes back to 2003, and the equivalent model in above average co edition is only listed at a mighty £150). You can get an agreed value policy, but on a 19 year old car they're unlikely to accept that it's especially valuable and will want some kind of proof, such as an owners club valuation etc, if you're trying to insure it above book. Best bet is to enjoy it yourself, take good care of it, and keep it going for future generations to enjoy.
  15. 12 years on my Fusion, no bodywork rust at all. The underside is good, although it has been Waxoyled twice since new. Seems Ford don't make them like they used to. Grind it backmto white metal, rust kill it, and as it's out of sight you could paint it with the closest match hammerite. You can't leave the bare steel once it's been treated as it will sump,y rust again - it needs to be painted or sealed.
  16. Collins, Revo, Mountune, take your pick. It's worth ensuring the car is tip top and A1 before doing the deed (A remap is wasted on tired shocks or nacked tyres), and anything beyond 280 or so requires the block mod for peace of mind. It's not an expensive car to tune, but it is expensive to do it properly.
  17. Bought my Fusion new in 2006, still going strong. Mortgage paid off at 38, retired at 48, all because I never wasted money on a new car or new PCP every few years. I'm also still riding the same motorbike I bought new in 1991. Sure a shiny new car, fast new bike, super duper iPhone XYZ would be cool, but not having to go to work on Monday morning is even cooler.
  18. Ive just noticed the thread title. My bad, didnt realise it was about the Docklands Light Railway.
  19. I spent 4 years study combustible and hyperbgolic fuels for my Masters. There's no way this side of the laws of thermodynamics that a slightly increased RON will have any effect whatsoever on idle.
  20. Consumer law states that any fault that appears on a car within 6 months of sale was either present or developing at the point of sale, and must be rectified by the selling dealer. This is somewhat set against the value of the car - you won t get an engine rebuild on a 20 year old Mondeo that cost you £300, but I'm guessing you paid a good sum for your ST, so the regulation would apply. Return it to the seller. Warranty wise will probably tell you that a CV boot that is found split on a Thursday will have been split 4 days previously on the Sunday, and won't cough. As an aside, that's a risky car to buy without a very thorough pre purchase inspection. I'd be worried what else had been overlooked. It also speaks volumes for the lack of prep that was done on the car prior to sale.
  21. Try HEL hoses. You can get them in red to match the car.
  22. There is no evidence that DRLs are linked to a reduction in accident stats outside of a sub-arctic climate, so unless you live in North Norway they're a waste of time. You can thank the EU for making it mandatory without evidence that it's is appropriate in England or Southern Spain as it is in Norway. After all, the EU tried to make leg protectors mandatory on motorbikes, despite a weight of evidence that demonstrated they would simply tear riders in half at the hip... There's is a small amount of evidence that all but the dimmest daytime lights may actually contribute to certain types of collision. A person judges the speed of an oncoming objects approach by the rate at which it's outline increases against the background. Suzuki did a study of collisions involving bikes, and discovered that under certain conditions DRLs can break up the outline of an oncoming vehicle and thus deprive the observers brain of the datum required to make an accurate speed calculation, thus making collisions more likely. It's easy to spot which manufacturers run theirs inappropriately bright - the ones that are so bright they have do be dimmed to allow indicators to be seen.
  23. Could be diesel contamination. Sensors might be just dandy.
  24. Spot on chum. No point replacing the turbo unless any parts that contributed to the failure are replaced. A decent spannerman would know this.
  25. Fiesta Hoffman race tube and Sportex silencer fitted. Not as loud as I'd feared, a nice raspy bubble on WOT but sensible the rest of the time. Feels a bit sharper of the throttle too, must be a good 30BHP or more extra! 😂
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