chlblnz

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content Count

    10
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About chlblnz

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Will
  • Ford Model
    Focus
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Somerset
  1. Thanks for the reply. I'm not getting any more fault codes which is making things mire difficult. I'll check the exhaust system. The TMAP is a real pain to access so fingers crossed it's not that..
  2. Hi, thanks for the reply. I did post previously on here about the dtc codes - http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/index.php?/topic/89152-Limp-Mode It smells rich but has white smoke. I would have thought it would be a sooty black colour being so rich.
  3. I've recently cleared a lot of fault codes on a 2006, 2.0 Duratec Focus. It was in limp mode but have managed to clear all DTCs. The problem I now have is the car bogs down under acceleration. I'm not sure if it's connected but after about 20 seconds of starting the car, the idle note changes and the car begins to produce a fair bit of white smoke which smells very rich. If I rev the engine up, it spits and bangs a bit and generally doesn't feel great. I took it for a quick spin around the block and it's okay on the flat as long as I don't push the accelerator down to quickly. If I do, the revs drop and the engine begins to die. Let off and the engine comes back again. Hills are a bit hit and miss if I'll make it up them. Smokes under acceleration slightly more than just idling. Things I've checked are; I've done a compression check and all cylinders are good. I've removed and cleaned up the EGR valve (this is cooled by the main coolant circuit so thought this could be leaking??) I've measured the resistance in each of the coil packs. They are all the same. I've placed hand on throttle body when idling and there don't appear to be any air leaks. I've recently replaced the inlet runner solenoid as that was bringing up a DTC. I bought a cheapo one so could that be the culprit? I've placed a spark tester between each coil and spark plug and each plug is sparking. I'm at a bit of a loose end now as I have no DTCs but this awful performance. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks Will
  4. chlblnz

    Limp Mode

    Thank you Peter, it was just the loose wire into the connector. Need to solder it all up to make it permanent but all testing has been successful.
  5. chlblnz

    Limp Mode

    Think I've found a problem [emoji12]
  6. chlblnz

    Limp Mode

    Hi, Again, thanks for your in depth reply. I've been trying to get this effing TMAP sensor out of the car. The bolt is quite inaccessible. I've attempted to remove the radiator fan to give a little more access. Have all the clips release but the fan shroud bumps onto the front cross member of the engine bay. Ford have placed a bracket directly above the fan shroud which prevents it coming up high enough to come away from the clips. PIcture attached. I've Google'd this quite extensively and have had little luck finding anyone with a similar problem. On all the cars I've ever worked on, the fan and radiator come out the top so scratching the head a lot.
  7. chlblnz

    Limp Mode

    Good evening, I've attempted to repair the 32 IC connector pins. I've run a soldering iron over the pins and hoped for the best. This evening I've plugged the unit back into the car and reset the DTCs. Good news is all the IC DTCs have cleared. Bad news is the PCM DTCs have not. Picture attached. Could this still be a case that I've not correctly fixed the IC or is the fact all the IC DTCs have cleared an indication that it's now fine and the problem lies elsewhere? How difficult is changing out the PCM? Does it need coding to the car? Thanks`
  8. chlblnz

    Limp Mode

    Hi, Sorry for the delay in replying, I did try and reset all of the DTCs but they came straight back. I will have another attempt this evening and tap the IC at the same time to see if it makes a difference. TDCI-Peter, thank you for your in depth response. PDF is great! I've got my paperclips at the ready and will test the diagnostic connector this evening. I'm not bad at soldering so think I can do this in house. I'll be in touch with the results. Thanks again.
  9. chlblnz

    Limp Mode

    I've found another oddity with the throttle. When I turn the key to position 2 (ignition on/engine off), the throttle body motor is on/rotating. And when I try and push the butterfly to open the throttle, the motor is holding is shut. Has anyone seen this before?
  10. Hi, I'm very new to this forum so if this has already been covered, a link would be really helpful. I've bought a 2006 Focus 2.0 Duratec Ghia. The car is in limp mode and has engine problem written on the dash. The MIL light is also on. I've run ForScan and it's come back with quite a few error codes (attached photo) The only one which reads it's Force Limiting RPM is P2100 (Throttle Actuator Control System). My first thought was to change the Throttle Body unit (2nd hand one) as a whole and conduct a Powertrain Control Module reset through ForScan. This hasn't changed anything except when I first started it up, I had my first on the throttle and it rev'd right up but then went back to being in limp mode again after only a second. Next, I tested the output voltage of the throttle position over time using the ForScan oscillascope. One thing I noticed was the minimum voltages for each of TP1 and TP2 were quite different. One was 1.19V and the other is 0.69V. I'm not sure if they are out of the allowable difference and therefore tell the ECU to put it into limp mode? Next i tested the output voltages of the PCM to the TPS. This is where the TPS connector is off and the ignition is on/engine off. I have 5V for the reference voltage. I then went into the back of the connector whilst connected to the TPS and ignition on with paper clips and measured as follows. Yellow./Blue Stripe = 1.29V (moves up to 5V with manual butterfly movement) White/Blue Stripe = 5V Brown/Blue Stripe = 0V Blue/White Stripe = 0V Black/Orange Stripe = 3.8V (Increases to 5V if I let the butterly snap closed. Another strange thing that happens is that the DC Motor in the throttle body housing is constantly winding when the ignition is on. If I remove the connector the motor (obviously) stops. This pin reads 1.29V whilst the motor is running and returns to 3.8V once I've stopped it. Green/Orange Stripe = 0V The colours might be a bit out as I was doing this with the headtorch this evening. I spoke to a Ford specialist today and they think it might be to do with a faulty Instrument Cluster as this can bring up a lot of error codes like I have. Has anyone heard anything like this before? If anybody has any ideas of what could be causing this limp mode, I'd be eternally greatful