MJNewton

True Ford Enthusiast
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MJNewton last won the day on September 26 2018

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About MJNewton

  • Rank
    Too much time on the boards

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Mathew
  • Ford Model
    Fiesta Titanium 1L Ecoboost
  • Ford Year
    2013
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Wiltshire

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  1. To follow up and close this off, you were all spot on - I replaced the battery and all now appears well. Incidentally, the battery shop (which was literally their name!) said their turnover has been four times what it normally is due to the accelerated death of ageing batteries during lockdown.
  2. Have you definitely got a Mk7 and not a Mk7.5? I note the 2014 date in your details... The reason I ask is that at some point Ford dropped the screw-in attachment for roof bars and I'm sure it might've be around the Mk 7 / 7.5 switchover (2013?). I think it was due to the risk of water ingress once the bolt holes had been used. Later models now don't have them and so roof bar attachment is via clamping. I wouldn't want you ripping the roof strips off your car only to find there's nothing underneath them! For what it's worth I've got a pair of clamp-on Cruz Airo T aluminium bars and have found them excellent. I did consider Thule but they were more expensive, bulkier and have a lower weight rating so didn't see any benefit despite them normally being my go-to brand.
  3. When you say you drained all of the old coolant how much was 'all'? You obviously can't put more back in that you took out in the first place. Bear in mind that to remove the coolant you need a means by which air can get back in otherwise a vacuum can be formed stopping any flow. Note also that there'll always be some coolant left on the other side of the thermostat in the block, heater matrix under the dash and various pipes in between.
  4. Welcome to the forum Ricky! The cylinder head bolt torque settings are: Stage 1: 10 Nm Stage 2: 40 Nm Stage 3: Loosen 45° Stage 4: 30 Nm Stage 5: 90° Stage 6: 90° Tightening sequence is 6, 2, 4, 8 (top row when viewed from the front) and 5, 3, 1, 8 (bottom row). There's no timing chain - it is belt driven. It has a non-keyed crankshaft and so 'proper' alignment requires the use of bespoke timing tools - a pin to set the crankshaft position and two frames to lock the camshafts. This video shows an aftermarket kit and procedure for use. Gotta love Ford for making jobs ten times as expensive as they need to be. Edit: Here's another tool set available for the relative bargain of £100.
  5. That's not related to the battery monitor in any way though as far as I am aware (as they are electrically connected anyway by a short length of cable). The issue is that when a circuit is made by connecting up a donor battery in parallel there can be a spark created which could ignite any hydrogen emitted by the battery. It is never the less sound advice though even if the risk might be small.
  6. I forgot to add: I was pleased to find that our radio settings all remained following the battery reconnect ion... but what was really disappointing was the reminder that the time/date doesn't get automatically set. It could source a time signal from GPS, FM RDS or DAB so it really shouldn't be necessary. First world problems eh?
  7. A bit of an update, and a positive one at that... It seems that when connecting a previously-disconnected battery there must be a few things that need to get initialised before everything settles down properly. A bypassed the meter (as it is limited to 20A and didn't want to risk surging over that) and cycled the ignition - this 'cured' the Traction Control message and prevented the periodic 2.5A wakeup. Furthermore, after 10 minutes or so after the car being locked the parasitic current draw as 10-20mA which is within the limit (25mA) of what is expected for the Fiesta (and seemingly nearly all Fords according the TSB I found) so, as you've all suggested, it really does seem merely to be a failing battery issue. The only reason I made that measurement was because we often leave the car unlocked and so I just wanted to check that if there was a significant current draw in an unlocked state it would eventually subside and not persist. In this instance I hadn't driven the car though and so the temperature threshold wouldn't have been met to trigger the pump, but I appreciate it being mentioned anyway. Thanks everyone - will get a new battery (found one for a decent price online which just happens to be a place not far from me) and we should be sorted.
  8. Hmm... the plot thickens.. I've just connected up my multimeter and, with the ignition off and the car unlocked, the parasitic current draw is around 6A. High but then there's probably a fair number of different modules sitting there powered up ready to go. If I lock the car it then drops to 0.2A after a few seconds. Higher than I thought it would/should be but then it wouldn't surprise me if there are still some things active that will eventually go to sleep so I'll check back in half an hour or so. However, I also noticed that every 10 seconds or the so the parasitic current draw jumps up to ~2.5A for around 20 seconds and then reverts back to 0.2A. Simultaneously with this increase the screen illuminates and a 'Traction Control Off' message appears for a few seconds before then disappearing and the screen going off again. What's that all about?! I am wondering (hoping!) that it is me disconnecting the battery to wire in my multimeter that has caused this - perhaps I need to go through an ignition cycle to reset this oddity. It has got me worried though, not only that this could well be the cause of my flat batteries if it keeps waking up every 10 seconds to report this fact but also that it could point to an issue with traction control! I'll go back out in half an hour and see what it's upto. I'll also reconnect the battery back up without the meter and go for a quick spin (not literally given the circumstances!) and see how it behaves afterwards when locked up.
  9. I still haven't got round to measuring the current draw but the responses have been really reassuring as a failing battery is arguably going to be the easiest problem to fix.
  10. Updated to add: Thinking rationally about this; maybe it simply a case of an old battery... We've often remarked that Start-Stop rarely kicks in and whilst I am aware of the various parameters that have to be true for this to happen, and that resetting the battery monitor often gets things working again, maybe these were early warning signs and the lockdown just finished it off! I'll do the current test anyway and, finger's crossed, it'll come back fine hence a new battery (£80-£100 by the looks of things) will sort it.
  11. Yes, as far as we're aware (only had a car a few years) it's still on its original battery. Even so, we tend to do fairly well with batteries - perhaps our usage patterns are sympathetic to giving long life. That said, I certainly couldn't rule that out. I just don't want to risk buying a new one only to find the issue persists, but getting the battery tested is certainly something I'd do ordinarily but I'm trying to DIY for the time being what with all that's going on. I did wonder if the first time it ran flat was down to lack of use, and that in completely draining it might've damaged itself further leading to subsequent issues?
  12. Whilst a flat battery during a pandemic lockdown is not at all surprising, it's happened three times now on my wife's 2013 1L Ecoboost Fiesta which doesn't seem at all right. I am charging the battery as we speak and, once complete, will be taking parasitic current measurements as the obvious first step towards finding out if there's anything amiss on that front. In the meantime, is anyone aware of common culprits on this model that I should be looking at first if the current draw is high? Additionally, are there any particular behaviours I need to be aware of in terms of, for example, it being normal for current draw to be high for x minutes after locking due to y doing z? I ran a cursory code scan one time it happened and found some: ===PCM DTC P0562:1C-2C=== Code: P0562 - System Voltage Low Additional Fault Symptom: - Circuit Voltage Out Of Range Status: - DTC Maturing - Intermittent at Time of Request ===IPC DTC B10EA:00-48=== Code: B10EA - Positive temperature coefficient heater Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC - Test not complete ===DDM DTC B1166:15-68=== Code: B1166 - Right Front Puddle Lamp Output Additional Fault Symptom: - Circuit Short To Battery Or Open Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request The 'System Voltage Low' code is unsurprising, and I'm inclined to consider the other two as red herrings given they were historical and not obviously related to flattening batteries (the puddle lights work just fine by the way) but thought I'd post them anyway in case anyone thinks otherwise!
  13. Yes, I must admit to being surprised it is already starting to fail (6 years and 5k miles). Speaking to the mechanic he said he wouldn't be surprised if he just gives another advisory at the next MOT as it is not showing signs of complete impending failure. Regarding the clamp-on flexi's I did look at those but it seems they're a fair bit longer than the weld-on ones given the need for a decent amount of overlap. With that nearby bracket I don't know whether that's a good or bad thing. Certainly if a clamp-on flexi will fit then I'd be tempted to go with one as I could obviously do that myself. Perhaps the exhaust clamp could be used instead of one of the flexi clamps if all things line up, which of course they won't!
  14. My wife's 2013 Fiesta was MOT'd today and I see from the online results that whilst it passed there is a 'exhaust front flexi in poor condition leaking slightly' advisory. I'll have a chat with the mechanic when I pick it up later but thought I'd do some digging around in the meantime. Assuming the worst and that it'll eventually need sorting I am wondering if it is possible to weld/clamp in a new flexi section given that space seems a little tight what with that clamp (which does seem to be movable though)? Could it be done in situ? I'd rather not have to succumb to a new cat just for the sake of a failed flexi pipe.