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MJNewton last won the day on September 26 2018

MJNewton had the most liked content!

About MJNewton

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    Too much time on the boards

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    Fiesta Titanium 1L Ecoboost
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  1. Yes, I must admit to being surprised it is already starting to fail (6 years and 5k miles). Speaking to the mechanic he said he wouldn't be surprised if he just gives another advisory at the next MOT as it is not showing signs of complete impending failure. Regarding the clamp-on flexi's I did look at those but it seems they're a fair bit longer than the weld-on ones given the need for a decent amount of overlap. With that nearby bracket I don't know whether that's a good or bad thing. Certainly if a clamp-on flexi will fit then I'd be tempted to go with one as I could obviously do that myself. Perhaps the exhaust clamp could be used instead of one of the flexi clamps if all things line up, which of course they won't!
  2. My wife's 2013 Fiesta was MOT'd today and I see from the online results that whilst it passed there is a 'exhaust front flexi in poor condition leaking slightly' advisory. I'll have a chat with the mechanic when I pick it up later but thought I'd do some digging around in the meantime. Assuming the worst and that it'll eventually need sorting I am wondering if it is possible to weld/clamp in a new flexi section given that space seems a little tight what with that clamp (which does seem to be movable though)? Could it be done in situ? I'd rather not have to succumb to a new cat just for the sake of a failed flexi pipe.
  3. Great to hear the Fiesta's still going strong HenryV!
  4. I think your logic is sound, and thinking back I don't recall why I did a conventional bleed first. It could well have been because I wasn't entirely confident about performing the ABS bleed function or quite sure what it was going to do. Next time I'd likely omit the manual stage.
  5. Sorry to hear this Ian. Can you elaborate on what happened?
  6. Great stuff! As annoyed a you might be (understandable) do be grateful that it's just a simple mechanical issue, and not some needle-in-a-haystack subtle electrical issue that could be virtually impossible to track down!
  7. eBay is full of tat, fakes and knock-offs when it comes to OBD adapters (and other things!) so I'd recommended going to Tunnelrat Electronics however I note he doesn't seem to be showing any bluetooth devices at present but I'd get in touch with him anyway. Forscan is just software - you can download it for free here. It is not essential for reading fault codes though - any/most smartphone apps will do this sort of thing (Torque is popular). To be honest I never noticed a correlation with hot weather, but I couldn't rule it out. It's been baking here recently and we haven't had the issue, but then I can't remember the last time it happened - as mentioned it could well be over a year ago. I discovered the 'fix' by accident - I went to turn the ignition off and felt it click into place when I touched it. So, for us, it was just a case of rotating the key back to the 'On' position ever so slightly. It's pretty obvious when you feel it fall into place. I think what was happening was that the key position wasn't fully reverting back from the 'Start' position and thus was stuck in a bit of a no mans land causing confusion for the modules.
  8. By this do you mean it is fine at the point in time when you have the airbig+windows+aircon issue? To confirm, for us it's once in a blue moon (haven't seen it for probably well over a year now despite daily usage) that we get this issue and only then that we find that the key position isn't quite set right. The rest of the time you would not know anything was wrong and so testing it without the fault present doesn't mean much. Next time it happens, aside from giving the ignition key a bit of a wiggle I'd perform a full code scan before you turn the engine off (bluetooth adapter and smartphone will suffice - you don't need Forscan) and see what you get. The clues were there for me, albeit somewhat subtle.
  9. It is quite easy to paint the 'crevice' as paint is naturally gap filling. With regards to known failures I've certainly seen one; it had corroded all the way a small section of the front of the pipe which is probably the weakest point given its exposure.
  10. If you are wanting to see how things change I think you'd be better of painting them. Grease will attract a coating of dirt in no time at all thus preventing you seeing what's happening, whereas paint won't and should also provide a barrier to oxygen and therefore stopping further corrosion. If the corrosion does for whatever reason continue it'll bubble the paint up and make itself obvious.
  11. What do they mean by 'repair'? Replace (just) the impeller? I'd be surprised if Ford garage would take such an approach, preferring instead to replace the turbo as one. Indeed, a failed impeller would surely have potentially caused other internal damage, or be indicative of another fault, hence adding justification for replacing the whole part. How much is the turbo you've found? If it were me I'd be looking to take control of fixing it myself.
  12. I'm not sure I did in the end, and have just stuck to using the pedal and a 'one man' bleeding kit.
  13. That's a good call, and one I hadn't previously considered.