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About Eddie78

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  1. I think one of the worst colours Ford did was oyster gold there was something like 6 shades yellow,pink,dirty etc... shades. I owed a escort and I think it had every possible shade LOL
  2. They cannot fail because of trays and panels etc... they can give you advisorys stating unable to check. if that was the case most modern cars would fail the mot some of the audis nearly all the floor is covered with plastic undertrays you cannot see if the car is rotten etc... the MOT tester is not allowed to remove panels for example I had a car with a missing wheel nut so popped a wheel trim on that wheel and it passed the MOT (yes I did replace the wheel nut)
  3. from what I have seen the facelift c-max have the single stage airbags so that would be the one to go for
  4. I can quite do the programming side so thats not a problem, so your saying if I have a complete c-max/kuga steering wheel it will fit? any issues with the clock or plugs? what about the air bags single stage 2 stage? just there are a lot more c-max steering wheel available
  5. The main reason is to do with air flow through the engine bay and helps to stop the front end from feeling floaty at speed. My MX5 track car has the factory undertray, with it removed at speed the car would feel a little loose and engine cooling was not as good.
  6. Am sure it has been asked many a time, but what steering wheels fit my mk2.5 I want cruise control, I have read that the C max doesnt fit. what is the reason it does fit? are there any other options mondeo's etc.....
  7. Do a leak test turn engine till cyl number2 valves are closed then a rubber hose thats a good fit in the spark plug hole pressurise that cylinder. if air comes out of exhaust its a exhaust valve, air out of air intake, intake valve, blows air out of dipstick tube thens its piston/rings, quicker and cheaper that tearing the head of
  8. Stick a engine in that runs on dinosaur squeezings. I just did a trip in mine sat at 65-70. 72mpg
  9. Hi recently noticed a strange noise (may of been there all time but normally have the radio blasting) no noises when stationary idle or reving, no noises when accelerating but when on overrun there is a whirring type noise sounds bit like tyre noise, happening from 10mph same noise regardless of gear dip the clutch noise goes, no dualmass noises. seems to be coming from the right hand side front, doesnt sound like gearbox, dualmass, turbo, seems to be more in tune with engine speed and not road speed, any ideas? its quite quiet, any known probs with noises from the aux belt/pulleys ?
  10. Well done well over a 1000miles now and not one fault code plugged it in this morning a nothing so all good
  11. well its looking promising so far fingers crossed
  12. Well so far the car is driving better than ever power is more punchy, mpg seems to of increased, and have managed 65miles without engine lights which is a record so far LOL Before I could get the engine management to flag up within 1 mile of driving always did it in the same circumstances cold start drive less than a mile accelerate up to speed and the light would come on and with a hard static rev the lambda sensor fault would flag up. I did a mix of driving tonight coming home from work had the engine labouring. high reving. accelerating hard etc..... and not one fault code. so looks like its all been caused by the engine been choked by the air filter
  13. Well the car drives a lot better still not a 100% but runs alot better from cold no more hunting or surging on light throttle, turbo spools up alot quicker and better and generally the car feels a lot cleaner to drive and if the the mpg on the dash is anything to go by its gone up by 1.2 mpg on a my run to work and back (same roads and driving style. Dont think it will fix the engine light issue (not cleared the codes yet to see if they will flag up again) but I am chipping away and the car is getting better next step is clean the MAF as it is oily then clean the egr as I am sure it will be clogged I am only doing 1 thing at a time just to see which has the biggest impact. on the plus side only spent £20 on injector seals and £7 on air filter and the car is a lot better
  14. Well had a quick poke about and checked the air filter, It was serviced by ford less than 5k ago they didnt bother to change the air filter by the looks of it, apart from the state of the filter the air box had 4 tab ends and birds wing in it, when the car was static rev'd it was trying to suck the filter into the turbo, put a new filter in and from a cold start the car revs a lot cleaner, yet to drive the car will find out on the way to work if she runs better from cold
  15. The garage didnt do anything other than a forced regen. I did the injector seals knew it wouldnt fix the prob but needed doing anyways as number was leaking,