spottedtango

Budding Enthusiast
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About spottedtango

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Ej
  • Ford Model
    Focus Mk2 1.8 tdci LX
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Ayrshire
  1. hello there I've recently hydrolocked my engine. I've taken out the glowplugs pushed the water out, tried to turn the engine over but its not for moving, although when I tried bumpstarting the car the engine turns over. Just to confirm the extent of the damage. If I take off the sump would I be able to see the crankshaft, conrods and underside of the piston to check for damage or is there a windage tray obscuring my view? . I cant seem to find any info on this. Cheers
  2. Hi there, I've recently developed a problem with my car. I've got a loss of power and feels like I'm driving with no turbo as I don't have the usual turbo kick at 1750rpm, I can no longer hear the turbo whistle when I rev the car at a stand still. Usually when starting the car theres a puff of blue smoke on start up that goes away and when I rev the car above 3000 at stand still theres some blue smoke but not excessive. It also didnt feel like it wanted to rev much higher. It's hard to describe but the car sounds deeper/slightly louder but no whooshing like a boost leak. This started happening after an 80mph run for about 25mins up the motorway. Once i had slowed back down to town speeds then the symptoms became apparent, So far I've: checked the all the intercooler hoses (as I've had to replace ones in the past). Including the ones that go from the airbox to intercooler and then up to the 90 degree into the turbo checked the exhaust by putting my hand over the end, car stalls so no leaks. which i dont think would affect the turbo anyway but was making me wonder about the deeper noise. The car: 153,000miles 2006 mk2 Focus slight turbo whine when it was working. I've always changed the oil/filter about 10,000miles and used 5w30 semi synth, it is overdue a change by about 1/2k cause of bad weather recently. Air filter changed every 20,000 No engine warning lights or the red cog appearing on the dashboard. The car has no power from the start it doesn't appear to go into limp home mode. I'm a bit confused to what it could be as I thought turbo failures would be more dramatic. Can a turbo impeller seize and just stop turning? Theres a few more checks I'm going to attempt later on. Just wondering If anyone has any suggestions.
  3. I've got a 56 plate 1.8tdci that's done 137k now that's still on the original dmf. Runs good with no major problems. I do all my own servicing and repairs So the stuff I've done to it apart from consumables and servicing is Replaced reversing sensor £7 Turbo hose £16 Cable tied one of the diesel leak off pipes as the r clip doesn't want to hold it in anymore Replaced suspension strut as the coil snapped second hand one £25 Inc postage Resoldered connections that goes into the back of the clocks I think 2006 cars suffered from this quite a bit. Solder hardens and cracks causes alot of weird warning lights and a loss of power
  4. Hi there, does anyone know the length of standard droplinks for a fiesta mk6? I have two pairs of brand new spare drop links off an unknown model kicking about and was wondering if they'd fit. Cheers
  5. Okay update. I've managed to get time to do the soldering myself. I re soldered all the pins just to be sure. I've noticed the car can be unlocked from miles away now and it feels quicker during acceleration as well as reduction in hesitation at the 1750 rpm mark. Would these pins affect this or am I just under the placebo effect? I've ran into a slight problem though. I think my calibration is slightly off for the temperature and fuel needle as they seem to be a bit stickly. I might have pushed them on to much. I was wondering if there was a sweep test for the mk2 focus or some way of making the calibration a bit easier. Mines doesnt have the fancy computer though showing the mpg ect. I also meant to say before it fixed this I had another error code U0155 and when i flicked the IC when the car tried to act up it would return to normal which was interesting to say the least.
  6. Ah I see that's a pain in the bum. The whole thing literally just sheared off, it was fully pushed in. I'm not having much luck with this car tbh heres a pic. Has anyone had the locknuts removed and replaced with ordinary ones, if so how much did it cost? Im also considering about getting a replacement key for it. Has anyone went down this route before?
  7. Hello just a slight problem im having the locking nut key has sheared off inside and i can no longer get the tyres off. The locking nuts on the wheels are all fine. So, is the locking keys for the mk6 generally the same so i could order a new one off ebay or are they specific? Details: mcgaurd locking key 03 fiesta mk6 zetec.
  8. I took your advice and I managed to get a tube nut spanner 10/11 mm I found the 11 mm end fitted nicely around the nut. The problem was that as you predicted the nut was seized onto the tube and metal tube had a split which i didn't see until i had cleaned the area up with wd40. Also the nut had rounded off even with the tube spanner. Good news is I got the old mangled nut loose and I managed to get the flex fitted at the caliper and mounting bracket so now I need to order the metal section of brake hose that goes from the flexi to the upper brake hose connection just above the strut. Which I've managed to track one down luckily enough.
  9. Thanks for the response. I've replaced quite a few brake lines on motorcycles before, flexi lines on cars not so much hence why the miss-understanding about the flexis and metal pipes. I understand about bleeding all the usual stuff etc. I was just asking if there's anything model specific I need to know about the fiesta before I start this as you know certain models of car can have their quirks. I'm gonna try and clean the area up with an old toothbrush and plenty wd40 before i start loosening any nuts. It is an older car (2003) so I understand some rust will be normal. I'll see how i get on as I have plenty of tools. I may invest an flare nut spanner set if I find that the nut is starting to round of.
  10. Sorry for late reply. It's the flexi hose. Here's a pic of supposedly where its burst, it looks like its been cut/damaged to me http://tinypic.com/r/1eanm8/9 link incase the imbedded pic doesn't work. Is there anything I need to know about changing the flexi hose on the fiesta or is it fairly straight forward?
  11. I haven't managed to get a look yet due to work but I have managed to read two codes from the ECU. I've got error codes U0121 and U0423 It might be a wee while before I get a good look at the IC works being a pain in the butt just now. If I don't get a chance I might consider sending them away as I noticed an advert on ebay offering a repair service for focus clocks
  12. Yep you're right, except it's the hose from the rear brake drum to the solid metal pipe as you stated.
  13. Okay thanks but the reason for the uncertainty is because the ones on it look metal where the ones on eBay look rubber but I'm guessing that doesn't matter too much.
  14. Hello there, I'm asking on behalf of my friend who has a fiesta mk6. Basically one of the rear brake lines on his has burst due to an incompetent mechanic. The car was fine when it went in for its mot and during its mot it supposedly burst which I find quite hard to believe. anyway I wanted to know if something like this would do the rear section of brake pipe as its not the main brake line but just the rear section. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302006183114 Any advice would be appreciated. I meant to says it's 03 mk6 1.4 tdci.fiesta
  15. I managed to get the code reader plugged in. I tried reading the codes in the ecu but I think you're right they are fairly short lived. However despite this I decided to clear any stored codes, since I didn't have anything anyway. The car started instantly. I managed to drive it back home where I'll try and have a look at the cluster. What I don't understand is why it let me drive after clearing the ecu. If a soldered pin has came loose or damaged over time then logically the car would stay immobilized as the IC and ecu cannot communicate. Or would something like that cause the ecu to throw a wobbly until it's cleared by a code reader. I'm still gonna try having a look at my IC asap, Im just glad it didn't have to be towed.