andyhot

Budding Enthusiast
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    13
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About andyhot

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    andy
  • Ford Model
    mk1 focus Tddi
  • Ford Year
    2004
  • UK/Ireland Location
    West Midlands

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  1. Hi peter. Yes i did remove all the earths and clean them with a wire wheel in a dremel back to shiny metal. I also did the battery terminals and lugs with wire wool, and all the connectors felt fine to me. I think i will get the alternator changed over just to rule it out and if that doesnt work ill change the battery. I was wondering if it might be the alternator connectors or a slight belt slip but i can check those when i change it. Thanks for all the help and advice and I'll keep the post updated. Andy.
  2. Hi peter. I have just tried to upload a renamed log and it still wont work. I think it is checking the file type and not just the name. The file is 4.5mb in size. the Pids are Vehichle speed 1 Vehichle speed 2 Engine RPM accelerator pedal voltage 1 accelerator pedal voltage 2 accelerator pedal voltage 3 PCM module voltage Clutch pedal position Egr Voltage DTC Current Many thanks Andy
  3. Just to add I got excited when I saw DTCCNT jump to 1 as I thought it had logged the fault but when we scanned it after the run it was still showing as none. Then I popped back to my friends for him to rescan it and there was a p1000 code. Also on the log if you notice the clutch pedal being pressed 3 times quickly it is because I wanted some way of knowing where to look on the log. I didn't manage to do it every time it did it but when it was safe to do so I did. From memory it played up at least 10 times on that run. Thanks Andy focus log.txt
  4. Hi Everyone. I cant upload the log file so have cut it into sections and uploaded it as pictures. If you would like Close ups of any areas please let me know and I will upload them. Thanks for all your help. Thanks Andy
  5. Hi guzzilazz. You're correct. Sorry i should of been clearer, i didnt mean a spike each millisecond but im fairly sure it was multiple a second. I will check when i get the log and update the post. Thanks Andy
  6. Hi guzzilazz. Off the top of my head i cant be sure. I think it was milliseconds but will check tonight as im still waiting for my friend to send me the forscan log. It wasnt a neat consistant wwwwww but seemed to fluctuate with higher and lower peaks but it was a jagged line. Thanks Andy
  7. Hi peter. I think you may have a good point about the alternator as on the log i did notice that the voltage wasnt a steady line but more of a wwwwwwwww type line between about 13.5v and 14.5v but i just assumed that was normal and that as it was over 13.5v it must be ok. I might have access to another alternator so will try and get them swapped over and see if it cures it. Thanks Andy.
  8. Hi everyone. I think i might have a clue. For the last 2 days it hasn't misbehaved once. The only difference is i haven't had the lights, radio or heater on. Also looking back it always seemed worse on a night. I cant be sure if its the lights, heater or radio but over the next couple of days i will introduce them one at a time to try and narrow it down. The only fly in the ointment is that i would of thought that the any of the above would blow the circuits fuse rather than cause the fault. Any suggestions to my idea please let me know. Thanks Andy.
  9. Hi peter. Thank you for all your help. I did save the log but it is on my friends laptop as the forscan is his. I will try and get him to email the log to me so i can upload it. When i set up the log i was using the pcm options so i assumed the voltage was the pcm module voltage. I was considering running some new live wires via a fuse and switch from the battery positive directly to the pcm live inputs. I will try and get hold of a small 12v motorcyle battery to connect via the cigarette lighter socket. I dont mind just plugging it in once the car is started as the car starts first crank and idles fine. Thanks for all your help. Andy
  10. Just to add ive also noticed last night when it was playing up bad that the temperature gauge dropped for a second each time it did it. (about 20 times in a 10 mile journey with forscan data logging.) It still isn't displaying any faults but i did notice a slight dip from about 14v to about 13v on the module voltage reading most of the times it did it and one time it dipped to about 5v for a few milliseconds. I believe this confirms an electrical short somewhere yet today i get up and go out in the car for a 4 mile trip and it hasn't done it once. Any advice is much appreciated and needed. Even though the instrument pcb looks in good condition and passes the onboard and forscan tests do you think it could be the problem? Or is it possible for me to try another pcm(ecu) on my car or would that require programming / coding? I hate electrical problems, especially intermittent ones. Thanks Andy
  11. Hi i have changed the ignition switch and its still the same. I will have a good look over the loom and connectors during the weekend. Is there any known points on focus where the loom is vunerable to damage or shorts? Thanks Andy.
  12. Thank you peter. I will replace the ignition switch and have a good look over all the loom connectors. It does seem like the ignition is turned off for a split second when it happens and the car instantly bump starts itself so you feel the sudden jerk but the engine doesnt stall due to the momentum. Thanks again and if theres anymore suggestions please feel free. Andy.
  13. Hi everyone. I have a 54 plate 1.8 tddi mk1 focus. I haven't had it long but when i first had it it was running fine but for the past couple of weeks its been playing me up. The car starts first crank and will idle fine but when im driving it can be running fine and then all of a sudden there is a sudden sharp power cut for just a second then it will pick up, sometimes it will do it repeatedly after a couple of seconds or sometimes it will be ok for a few minutes before doing it again. Sometime it happens when accelerating but usually its when trying to maintain a constant speed such as on a dual carriageway or motorway. When on the motorway in 5th if i try and sit at 70 it will constantly do it but if i put my foot down it will do it 2 or 3 times and then let me accelerate but as soon as it lift my foot slightly to maintain my speed it will do it again. When i happens the Eml, glow plug, battery and immobiliser lights all come on and the speedo drops about 10mph for a second. I have changed the accelerator pedal, crank sensor, cleaned maf sensor, cleaned and re secured all the earth points and battery terminals, swapped the engine and power relays with the headlight relays, removed and checked the instrument cluster pcb which looks in good condition, ive also visually checked all the wiring i can see in engine bay and under kick panels. I have had a friend plug in his f super reader and its not showing any fault codes. I am now considering getting a new ignition switch and maybe changing the vehicle speed sensor as thats all i can think it might be. Im sorry for the long post but im at a loss and getting fed up with it now and it could be dangerous. If anyone could give me any advice or ideas of what else i could try or what it might be that would be great. Thanks Andy