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  1. After suffering a flat battery, as in totally dead, I noticed that after recharging, the fuel consumption has dropped from 55-60 average to 49-51. I assume the flat battery will have made the ECU reset? Will the car return to its previous fuel consumption level after a while?
  2. All done! Not the most pleasant of jobs. A complete PITA! Not difficult just akward. The puller arrived today, very chunky bit of kit. The silver cup is the extractor, the gold one presses in the new bush. Couldn't use the nice new press as I couldn't get the last bolt out of the trailing arm and didn't want to risk snapping the head off it! Still it will come in useful for loads of other jobs. I tried the extractor first, but it just deformed the outerring of the old bush. No way it was going to just press out. So I removed the rubber part (one just fell out, the other twisted out) and cut a slot in the metal ring that was well and truly lodged in place. After a bit of hammering, I managed to get an end levered up and the prised the ring out. NOTE: Mark the location of the flat on the old bush before you take it out, so you can set the new one back in, at the right angle. Pressing the new bush in. It doesn't look square and thats beacuse the side of the trailing arm isn't flat. There is a rib on the side that gets in the way. The bush soon centres once it gets a little way in. It was quite tough to get in as you don't have much room under the car to get a decent length socket handle on it. Also the arm tends to flex all over the place so it needs wedging with blocks of wood. Re-assembly was a lot easier! Only tighten the bolts up when the suspension is in its normal compressed position, so jack the suspension up to take the wieght of the car. MOT re-test tomorrow!
  3. Well here is a quick update. Opted to try taking trailing arm off of the hub assembly. So 4x 15mm bolts and the two holding the main bush in place. As expected the lowest bolt, that takes the most road spray and dirt is very solid. As it's a 15mm (not 17mm, not 14mm) I did not have many socket options to try on it. I notice that there are also some 18mm nuts on the focus - another wierd size. I tried a 15mm 6 point socket - 3/8" drive and fitted a 1/2 to 3/8 adaptor to the breaker bar. It snapped the adaptor. I then snapped a second adaptor. WTF are these things made of??? Tired the other side with a 12 point socket 1/2 drive and it rounded off the bolt head. So I decided to take out the other bolts, which all came out fine (TIP: Just loosen all the bolts first, don't take any out. This will keep the arm from flexing about all over the place when you are putting a load on it) So I can't remove the trailing arm yet, but I can pull the end with the bushes in down far enough to get at them. One bush fell out leaving the metal sleve in place. The other is in one piece so it's going to need cutting out or extracting with a puller. I stopped for today... I can easily hacksaw out the old sleeve and I ordered a puller/pusher tool which should arrive in 2 days with a bit of luck. I decided to get one in addition to the hydraulic press as I expected the arms to be difficult to get completely off the car and I was right... Will probably sell the puller once I've used it. Also ordered a complete set of impact sockets from 10mm to 20mm with NO MISSING sizes! 15,16 and 18mm bolts/nuts... Jeez. Just need to find a new 1/2 to 3/8 thats not made of cheese... Facom sell them for £8 rated at 220nm but one reviewer managed to snap it easily!
  4. Well I bought the press anyway, I've been meaning to get one for ages and usually have to improvise to get bearings in/out etc. If I get the dedicated puller I can always sell it on to some other poor unfortunate who has this job to do!
  5. After more googling, I see there is a puller kit, for £80. Or I can get a 12 ton press for the same money. Will see what the local garage will want to do it. I don't have a problem doing it myself unless its a total PITA and I risk bending the trailing arms! I know the front whishbone bushes are almost impossible to replace, but you can just buy a whole new wishbone for £75 or whatever. Been there, done that on the last MOT.
  6. 09 Focus 1.6 TDCI needs new bushes in the rear trailing arms. One method I saw dropped the entire rear axle complete. The other took off the trailing arm. Anyone replaced these bushes? Do need to buy that 10 ton hydraulic press I've always wanted? Cheers.
  7. It's on attempt 3 and its making me wait 30 mins with ignition on, before each go. What a total PITA this thing is! Who'd want to steal a crappy ford stereo anyway...
  8. Before I go too far down this rabbit hole, is there a trick to the radio codes? 2009 focus. CD6000. A flat battery has left me with the radio needing it's code. The number in the owners manual doesn't work - Computer says Incorrect I also found, in hand writting, at the back of the service book: R/C 8081 K/N 1961 1961 is also written on the credit card in the owners manual jacket None of those numbers work. I've owned the car since almost new, so it's not been swapped to my knowledge. Is there a defult code? I have the V number and a website promises to get me the code for 8 quid. Which is not a lot but enough to be annoying...
  9. 😂 Yes those unusual even sized metric bolts. Not the usual odd sized metric bolts... 🤪 Few hundred miles on and nothings gone bang or leaked. We'll call it a success... I have an MX5 to do next.... Apparently there is no crank locking bolt hole, you have to put the car in gear and stand on the brakes while undoing the crank pulley bolt.
  10. Just completed mine. Many thanks Tom, your guide was very helpful. Might add a few of my own pics showing some of the more hidden bolts... My car has 150k on, 2009 and the belt was perfect. No cracks anywhere. The aux belt was shot, so good job I changed anyway. Pretty easy job really, biggest issue I had was getting the timing belt covers back on. Very fiddly. Especailly with the interlocking fit around the engine mount. Don't mind if I never see another 7mm bolt ever again! Seems that mordern cars like odd metric sized bolts like 16mm and 18mm, so if you have a bog standard socket set, make sure you have these sizes. Mine were all 15mm, 17mm then 19mm so had to go hunting for a 16mm and 18mm. Also, don't pop off the water pump and think that the red sealant is all that seals it. I was busy scraping all that red stuff off when I realised that there is a metal gasket with red sealant on both sides of it! So pop the pump off using the handy lug to prise it off, then take the metal gasket off, then clean up the face of the block ready for the new pump. Oh and don't get all excited when you finish and forget to take out the crank lock bolt before trying to start the engine... Doh! I found that the camshaft lock was 8mm on my 2009 mk2.5. Getting the belt back on is a little tricky as you do need to get it pretty tight on the crank to camshaft side, in order to have enough belt to get the other side on. Other than that, all good.
  11. Yes, done some more Googling. Very annoying that ECP only sells the kit without the water pump! Will take it back. The Dayco code is KTB914 and their kit with the pump is KTBWP9140 The Gates kit even includes the crankshaft bolt, which ECP charge another £7 for. So ECP want £107 for the timing belt kit, water pump and bolt, with the discount code applied. Amazon will do next day delivery for the Gates kit for £75. Quite a bit less. Not sure if Dayco is much better than Gates? Amazon sell the Dayco kit with pump for £75 delivered.
  12. Just picked up a Dayco timing belt kit for a 2009 1.6tdci. No water pump in the kit? It cost £64, so I've been ripped off by Euro Car Parts?
  13. Thanks Peter! You beat me to it! This is what I did: I noticed that the turbo actuator was moving about all the time while the engine was idling. Looking at the ODB logs, the drive to the actuator, VGTDC was not moving much. However the MAP was ramping up and down every 10 seconds. This matched exactly the movements in the actuator. My theory was that there was a vacuum leak which allowed the actuator to gradually sink back. The ECU applies a puff of vacuum every 10 seconds and this makes the actuator jump back again. Well today I tested the boost control actuator. I attached a pipe to the vacuum actuator on the turbo and stuck a syringe on the other end. Pulling the syringe creates a vacuum and the actuator moves and stays put. So it works fine and hold vacuum. I then went looking for the control solenoid. Some people call this the boost control solenoid but the supplier and Ford call it a Pressure Converter Valve. It located behind the engine on the drivers side, low down, just above the steering rack. See pic. To get to it, you need to take the under cover off (6 or 8 screws). then get right under the car and look up past the steering rack. The valve has a 2 wire connector and 3 pipes on it. The pipes are from the left, vent (to the small air filter on the end of a pipe at the back of the engine bay, just under the wipers), vacuum out to the actuator and vacuum in from the vacuum pump via a reservoir (black plastic blob left of the valve). It's easy to get off once you get access to it. I made a fork shaped pipe puller to avoid damage to the rubber pipes. It slips over the tube and pulls the rubber hose off. I tested the valve with a syringe and some pipe and it leaked air. So I bought a new valve. Ford charge £125 for these. They are on ebay for £45 but I decided to go with Eurocarparts (and get a warranty). It was £64, but I had to buy one for a Citroen as they didn't list the Ford one! The valve is the same and it's made by Pierburg part code 7.00968.03 Yoyo parts shows all the car part codes for it. So I stuck the new valve on and hey presto, no more turbo actuator movement on idle and no MAP changes when idling. Out on the road I have full boost in all gears and the car goes like a rocket! So before getting your turbo replaced, check what the MAP is doing on idle and what the actuator is doing too.
  14. cheers Peter, I have been looking online for days and no one has a picture or video of it! Lots of pics of the spare part though.... If it ever stops raining, I'll go looking underneath. By the way, the actuator is doing this constant up down movement when idling. I don't think that is correct operation???
  15. Further to trying to fix my Focus 1.6 Tdci, DV6, 2009 underboost boost, can anyone tell me where the turbo actuator control valve actually is? I have noticed that while sitting on idle the actuator is always moving. It creeps up than jumps back all the time. I think it may have a vacuum leak. The pipe to the actuator disappears round that back of the oil filter. I can't see the valve that will be on the end of it. Cheers!