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  1. It's on attempt 3 and its making me wait 30 mins with ignition on, before each go. What a total PITA this thing is! Who'd want to steal a crappy ford stereo anyway...
  2. Before I go too far down this rabbit hole, is there a trick to the radio codes? 2009 focus. CD6000. A flat battery has left me with the radio needing it's code. The number in the owners manual doesn't work - Computer says Incorrect I also found, in hand writting, at the back of the service book: R/C 8081 K/N 1961 1961 is also written on the credit card in the owners manual jacket None of those numbers work. I've owned the car since almost new, so it's not been swapped to my knowledge. Is there a defult code? I have the V number and a website promises to get me the code for 8 quid. Which is not a lot but enough to be annoying...
  3. 😂 Yes those unusual even sized metric bolts. Not the usual odd sized metric bolts... 🤪 Few hundred miles on and nothings gone bang or leaked. We'll call it a success... I have an MX5 to do next.... Apparently there is no crank locking bolt hole, you have to put the car in gear and stand on the brakes while undoing the crank pulley bolt.
  4. Just completed mine. Many thanks Tom, your guide was very helpful. Might add a few of my own pics showing some of the more hidden bolts... My car has 150k on, 2009 and the belt was perfect. No cracks anywhere. The aux belt was shot, so good job I changed anyway. Pretty easy job really, biggest issue I had was getting the timing belt covers back on. Very fiddly. Especailly with the interlocking fit around the engine mount. Don't mind if I never see another 7mm bolt ever again! Seems that mordern cars like odd metric sized bolts like 16mm and 18mm, so if you have a bog standard socket set, make sure you have these sizes. Mine were all 15mm, 17mm then 19mm so had to go hunting for a 16mm and 18mm. Also, don't pop off the water pump and think that the red sealant is all that seals it. I was busy scraping all that red stuff off when I realised that there is a metal gasket with red sealant on both sides of it! So pop the pump off using the handy lug to prise it off, then take the metal gasket off, then clean up the face of the block ready for the new pump. Oh and don't get all excited when you finish and forget to take out the crank lock bolt before trying to start the engine... Doh! I found that the camshaft lock was 8mm on my 2009 mk2.5. Getting the belt back on is a little tricky as you do need to get it pretty tight on the crank to camshaft side, in order to have enough belt to get the other side on. Other than that, all good.
  5. Yes, done some more Googling. Very annoying that ECP only sells the kit without the water pump! Will take it back. The Dayco code is KTB914 and their kit with the pump is KTBWP9140 The Gates kit even includes the crankshaft bolt, which ECP charge another £7 for. So ECP want £107 for the timing belt kit, water pump and bolt, with the discount code applied. Amazon will do next day delivery for the Gates kit for £75. Quite a bit less. Not sure if Dayco is much better than Gates? Amazon sell the Dayco kit with pump for £75 delivered.
  6. Just picked up a Dayco timing belt kit for a 2009 1.6tdci. No water pump in the kit? It cost £64, so I've been ripped off by Euro Car Parts?
  7. Thanks Peter! You beat me to it! This is what I did: I noticed that the turbo actuator was moving about all the time while the engine was idling. Looking at the ODB logs, the drive to the actuator, VGTDC was not moving much. However the MAP was ramping up and down every 10 seconds. This matched exactly the movements in the actuator. My theory was that there was a vacuum leak which allowed the actuator to gradually sink back. The ECU applies a puff of vacuum every 10 seconds and this makes the actuator jump back again. Well today I tested the boost control actuator. I attached a pipe to the vacuum actuator on the turbo and stuck a syringe on the other end. Pulling the syringe creates a vacuum and the actuator moves and stays put. So it works fine and hold vacuum. I then went looking for the control solenoid. Some people call this the boost control solenoid but the supplier and Ford call it a Pressure Converter Valve. It located behind the engine on the drivers side, low down, just above the steering rack. See pic. To get to it, you need to take the under cover off (6 or 8 screws). then get right under the car and look up past the steering rack. The valve has a 2 wire connector and 3 pipes on it. The pipes are from the left, vent (to the small air filter on the end of a pipe at the back of the engine bay, just under the wipers), vacuum out to the actuator and vacuum in from the vacuum pump via a reservoir (black plastic blob left of the valve). It's easy to get off once you get access to it. I made a fork shaped pipe puller to avoid damage to the rubber pipes. It slips over the tube and pulls the rubber hose off. I tested the valve with a syringe and some pipe and it leaked air. So I bought a new valve. Ford charge £125 for these. They are on ebay for £45 but I decided to go with Eurocarparts (and get a warranty). It was £64, but I had to buy one for a Citroen as they didn't list the Ford one! The valve is the same and it's made by Pierburg part code 7.00968.03 Yoyo parts shows all the car part codes for it. So I stuck the new valve on and hey presto, no more turbo actuator movement on idle and no MAP changes when idling. Out on the road I have full boost in all gears and the car goes like a rocket! So before getting your turbo replaced, check what the MAP is doing on idle and what the actuator is doing too.
  8. cheers Peter, I have been looking online for days and no one has a picture or video of it! Lots of pics of the spare part though.... If it ever stops raining, I'll go looking underneath. By the way, the actuator is doing this constant up down movement when idling. I don't think that is correct operation???
  9. Further to trying to fix my Focus 1.6 Tdci, DV6, 2009 underboost boost, can anyone tell me where the turbo actuator control valve actually is? I have noticed that while sitting on idle the actuator is always moving. It creeps up than jumps back all the time. I think it may have a vacuum leak. The pipe to the actuator disappears round that back of the oil filter. I can't see the valve that will be on the end of it. Cheers!
  10. OK thanks mate. I saw some pics of that valve on the net, so I know what to look for. Defo worth a try for £40... I'll post back if I get anywhere...
  11. Thanks Peter, I think the odd thing is that everything works as it should in lower gears. You can see max boost and it topping out at 250kpa (that's 16psi of boost). So that means the intake is free from leaks and the actuator is working etc. Fuel pressure peaks up at 143000kpa (21,000psi) so I would assume fuel flow is ok. No DTC codes for fuel. Lots of air flow through the MAF too. It just seems not to bother adding any boost in the higher gear... I've posted this on three other forums, no other comments yet. Maybe I need to find an ECU experts forum!?
  12. Its a 16V Just been out for a drive with the OBD scanner on. These graphs show that the MAP falls off as revs rises, in 4th gear. MAP is high in lower gears as is fuel pressure. the vertical red line is where the engine malfunction DTC comes on. The RPM and fuel pressure are scaled to fit on the graph. You can see the MAF showing low air flow too. The green line is the turbo actuator servo.
  13. Hi Mate, Thanks for this info! I had a look at the turbo actuator and it's moving up and down, even when just sitting there on idle and even for a while when the engine has just been turned off. Just wondered if that is a normal? It moves slowly up then drops back quickly and repeats. The turbo impeller seems to spin ok, but it doesn't really freewheel like I expected it would. There is very slight play in the shaft. I'll look into the boost pressure regulator. I haven't heard about that before, so defo worth looking at. I am assuming you mean the solenoid that operates the turbo actuator? The actuator is moving while on idle, so it must be working??? Do you know if it can be read via the OBD? I can read dozens of sensors, MAP, MAF, fuel pressure, throttle, etc etc. I wondered if logging all these when the car goes into limp mode would help identify the issue. I guess I need to record MAP and atmospheric pressures while booting it. Thanks again!
  14. I have a 59 plate 1.6 TDCI with 115k on the clock. I've had it since 9k miles and it's always been dealer serviced (for what it's worth), on time. I am getting P0299 with Engine Malfunction, pretty reliably when I floor the accelerator. Normal pootling around is fine, but hard acceleration gives this fault. I have fixed a burnt through pipe to the DPF sensor and fitted a new fuel filter a few months ago. Today I took off the EGR valve and gave it a clean up as I had a Code: 'P1412 - EGR Valve Frozen' with MIL, but the P0299 code is still coming up. I also gave the MAF a quick clean, as it was a little oily. Not dripping in oil, just not gleaming. The air filter is well due for replacement, which I will do tomorrow. I've read the horror stories of turbo bearing failure and all the carbon deposit and oil pipe cleaning/sump that is required as well as checking injector seals. So before I go down that route, what else should I be looking for? I'll give the turbo a spin and see how free it is and I'll have a good look around the intake plumbing. Clearly the turbo hasn't failed, but it's either on the way out and not spinning up fast enough or there is an air leak somewhere. Anything else i can easily check? Any help gratefully accepted! Cheers!