Drd

Budding Enthusiast
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    39
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About Drd

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Ewain
  • Ford Model
    Mk2 Focus Titanium 2.0 TDCI
  • Ford Year
    2007
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Greater London

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  1. Replaced the throttle control solenoid and still nothing, but didn't have time to go through it all again at the time. So I finally decided to cough up the £15 A DAY charge to use Ford ETIS (had forgotten about it till someone suggested looking there for wiring diagrams) and found a very comprehensive checklist to eliminate causes. Some of the tests required an in-line vacuum gauge (I only had a vacuum pump with gauge), so ordered one and finally sat down to go through it all now I had everything, and discovered no vacuum to the turbo due to a leaky one-way valve, just like Abbadon had suggested, but I had already checked it after he suggested doing so three weeks ago and it was fine! Luckily I had a much more robust one-way valve for bleeding brakes, and that worked a treat! It's now like a different car, so much better. It really has felt like everything I've tried to fix has just caused the next weakest link in the chain to go. The entire vacuum system, from pump to turbo, and pump upto the brake booster has now been replaced, tested, and improved. Lesson learned? - If it's really that confusing and frustrating and the trusty Haynes isn't working, check ETIS. Even if it is at a ridiculous price, It's still cheaper than throwing parts at it. Oh well, guess I learned a lot about turbo diesels too. 😋
  2. Eventually got round to properly checking for leaks with vacuum pump and gauge and found a leak in the feed(suction?) side of the throttle control vacuum solenoid (the only bit I hadn't replaced of course), so just waiting on new one to turn up.
  3. Good point, will check and get back to you. A small vacuum leak would certainly explain the symptoms I'm getting. At the mo this car is becoming more of a restoration than a fix-up!
  4. Please, if anyone knows where I can get an engine wiring diagram that at least shows the grounds so I can check nothing is shorting, that would be highly appreciated. The car is an '07 Focus 2.0 TDCi with the G6DA 100kw/136bhp engine. This engine is shared with the mondeo, c-max, s-max, and kuga amongst others, and is also used by Citroen, Peugeot and Volvo under the DW10-BTED4 engine code. I'd gone to see family a couple of hours drive away and it was fine, where it sat parked up for about 12hrs. I went to drive home and there was a drastic loss of power, and low and behold the ambiguous P2263 code pops up. I have grown to seriously hate that 5 digit code. *twitch twitch*. So, did my research and tried the obvious, cheapest, and most common answers with no luck. List of things I've tried or replaced: Resetting the error codes (and after each subsequent round with the car) Checked all vacuum hoses and have now replaced them with a new genuine fomoco pack Checked all charge pipes between turbo and inlet manifold, and had previously already replaced one with a hole in it with a new silicon pipe New MAP and MAF sensors New boost vacuum solenoid Swapped the inlet-manifold/rocker-cover with another 2nd-hand one on the odd chance there's a leak At this point the turbo blew up (core seals totally shot), puking oil down my exhaust and causing a massive thick cloud of white smoke so bad I couldn't see a thing behind me and it wasn't legal to drive. Think it might have been due to all the pressure and heat cycling on the exhaust side, with none on the compressor side, blowing the core seals on a 12yr old unit. So... one new Garrett turbo It then passed it's MOT with flying colours, much to everyone's surprise. But pulling my hair out by this point as still in limp mode, so started throwing money and parts at it: New CAT, in case it was possibly a blocked CAT causing too much back pressure for the turbo to spin up properly New gaskets and seals up to and including the exhaust and intake sides of the block, and from turbo back past the CAT. Everything torqued to spec. New intercooler as it was looking a bit battered New vacuum pump So, now I find myself with a car even less likely to fail it's next MOT, but still in limp mode due to that damn pesky P2263 code.The remaining possibilities I can think of are either there's not enough vacuum to properly actuate the wastegate, putting it into limp mode, or a wiring short: Maybe a small leak in brake booster, as brake feel has changed a bit, and the brakes aren't great. Have tested it with engine on, off, and switching between with foot on and off the pedal, and the booster seems to hold vacuum. Or the most dreaded - the wiring. Maybe the MAP or wastegate position sensor cabling grounded somewhere? But I have no idea what the correct readings would be, and cannot find a good engine loom diagram to work from. Anything you guys can think of or recommend trying? Please, if anyone knows where I can get an engine wiring diagram that at least shows the grounds so I can check nothing is shorting, that would be highly appreciated.
  5. Got a limp home issue with the P2263 fault code showing. Trying to diagnose this, so check the hoses from turbo to intake manifold, all fine. Take out and clean the MAF, IAT and MAP sensors, plugging them in one by one to see what faults come up, seems fine. So under the car I go to check the turbo itself and seems ok, little oily but assume it's from the breather hose (catch can now fitted and hoses and intercooler cleaned with carb cleaner), but compressor spins with no play, takes a little bit of pressure to spin it but it's smooth. Start going through vacuum hoses with a vacuum pump, no probs. Try pulling a vacuum on the turbo actuator and actuator arm does move freely, but immediately loses vacuum and arm returns original position. Shouldn't it hold vacuum and arm remain in position until vacuum changes? I'm reasonably handy guy, but this is a little out of my purview, so any help appreciated! It's a '07 Focus 2.0 TDCI 136bhp/100kw version.
  6. Alright, slightly confused here. The sensors you've pictured seem to be the MAP and IAT sensors, not the MAF sensor, which is just after the air box in the clean air inlet pipe to the turbo. - So, did you try disconnecting the MAP sensor pictured or the MAF? Spent a good hour trying to work this out as the haynes says it's the way I've described it but really isn't clear on the matter. In the end I looked up the model/serial number on the bigger of the two mounted sensors on the throttle body and found it was indeed a MAP. Only other thing I'm suspect on is that when I did a vacuum test on the turbo actuator the actuator arm does move, but it immediately loses vacuum. Is it meant to be a sealed system, or is it meant to be constantly drawing vacuum? Or is the sensor on the turbo actuator supposed to control the vacuum and because I have the engine off it's just not closing the circuit?
  7. Do you know where I could get a head template? It's not exactly a common tuning engine.
  8. The gaskets are unfortunately rubber, but the material I need to remove is on the head, and the seals slot into the the inlet manifold about 4-5mm from the edge of the inlet port, so the seals won't be affected. So, I'm hoping to carefully just get rid of the step-down effect from the manifold into the head, tapering the inlet to the head just a little bit. Haven't seen the exhaust side of the head yet, but will be checking it out as I have an oil leak I need to investigate that I suspect is the turbo.
  9. Yeah that sort of porting is way out of my comfort zone. When I say 'porting', what I'm planning is just to port match the head and inlet manifold. I'm mainly doing this so I can get the head stripped and all the heavy carbon build up removed, both to prolong it's life and to (maybe) improve performance a lil bit, but I'm under no illusion that I'll be getting massive power as a result.
  10. Any more in this process please? If anyone knows anything about this method, please get in touch, as it could save me a ton of work. Yep they could do it, but an unfortunate lack of communication (on both sides) means I don't think they did the head process, and as my car didn't come with a DPF there wasn't a really noticeable difference there either, but it could have done a great job on the engine internals that I can't see. I know what you mean Phil, it is quite an intimidating prospect, and I've never tried it before, but I've always wanted to have a go at rebuilding an engine. Still pretty damn scary though. I've no idea how much it would cost to get it done like this professionally, but don't imagine it'd be cheap. While I've got it off, I might have a go at porting the head (very carefully) a bit too, as that's also something I've wanted to try, but that's even scarier!
  11. Right, after having had the terraclean done, I've finally got round to taking the inlet manifold off and as far as I can see the carbon build up in the head is the same as before, but this might have been some confusion as to which process I'd asked them to do, as they billed me less than I was expecting. In the meantime, I got an inlet manifold off ebay, thoroughly cleaned and checked it and swapped it for the gummed up mess that was the original, and in doing so I found one of the inlet o-ring/gaskets had died and the exhaust crank cover rubber gasket is also looking pretty knackered, both of which could be causing boost pressure loss (don't know if it'll be noticeable). While I was at it, I removed the throttle body and gave it a good clean as it was pretty gummed up, and blanked off the EGR pipe so that I can reduce anymore carbon build up in my intake. Have ordered the gasket kit for the inlet-manifold/rocker-cover, and have decided to have a go at removing the head and sorting it myself at some point in the near future, which I'll try and document as much as possible. But first I'm going sort out the intake system, because when I removed the throttle body I noticed the intercooler pipe was a mess too, so next will be removing and cleaning the intercooler and pipework, possibly the turbo if it needs it too (I really hope not).
  12. Interestingly, one of the decarbonising techniques I found on youtube was of a guy using water, by pouring it into his inlet in a very controlled manner while maintaining 2500rpm. Seemed to work for him ok, but not sure I'd want to try on anything I needed to keep working. I watched something a long time ago where some kids in japan were using squirty bottles in a proper ghetto style water injection system, but that was with petrol and I have no idea what that did to their engines!
  13. Just booked the car in with another dealer for wednesday next week, full treatment including intake. Will post the results, as it's interesting to see before and after pics, and driving impressions. But still welcome comments and discussion on the issue and their own experiences with carbon-buildup/decarbonising. Also anyone with knowledge or experience with water/methanol intake injection to lower temps, as I think it's something that's not used so much, but it's a simple system that is used to great effect with some high performance modded cars. It might be something I'll experiment with, especially as it's so easily removable.
  14. I was looking at that Sea Foam stuff too Darren, will see where the Terraclean goes first, but I might give it a go. I just got off the phone from local Terraclean dealer, and they said there is an adapter for intakes, but they don't have it, so I've emailed Terraclean for any other dealers in my area that do have it. If they do all the injectors, valves, pistons, cylinders, exhaust ports, and intake for £110, it'll be well worth the money. Might even refit the EGR pipe and get that all cleaned out while I'm there, as can remove it again later, but at least I'll know it's cleaned.