HenryV

Budding Enthusiast
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HenryV last won the day on April 12 2019

HenryV had the most liked content!

About HenryV

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Henry
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Fiesta 1.4 Zetec Climate
  • Ford Year
    2005
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Lancashire
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Travel
    Literature

Recent Profile Visitors

1,528 profile views
  1. Hi Bzoo, I've dealt with this issue on a couple of cars. It's usually the scuttle drains that are blocked with leaves/debris. Water is supposed to drain from the scuttle drains down through the wheel arches. If the drain holes are blocked the water level rises until it drains into the footwell via the heater intake. Remove the scuttle panel (at the bottom of the windscreen) to investigate. Try googling 'blocked scuttle drains' for plenty of info. Best wishes, H..
  2. The mk7 cables are 160mm The mk6 are 175mm I've made do with the existing ones again
  3. Hi again folks, I'm now on with replacing the intermediate handbrake cable/s and have again started to curse the crap mk6 short rear cables I have seen that the cables were modified for the mk7 and given a metal retaining clip instead of the useless plastic clips on the mk6 I'm wondering if the mk7 will fit the mk6? Might anybody have a spare/old mk7 cable and be good enough to compare the dimensions with the mk6 one? Better still, has anybody a definitive answer as to whether they'll fit? Regards, H..
  4. 114,800 Miles and she's purring like a kitten. Any bets on her reaching 150,000?
  5. stef/ian, You were of course right in that the aftermarket cables are all a direct copy of the oem cables I got the rear brake set up sorted and must admit that my understanding of the mechanism of the rear brake drums was somewhat wanting The job was not my 'finest hour' I 'faffed' about with it for far too long However, along the way I realised that if the handbrake is too far out of sync with the shoes, then it compresses the return spring more than enough to pop the crap plastic wing anchor back through the hole in the drum mounting. I again cleaned/lubed the 'self adjusters' and Grindied off the lip on the inside of the drum to help me adjust the shoes more accurately Next was my foot on the brake pedal, hoping to hear the adjusters clicking Of course they did for now but they won't for long when they're covered in brake dust again Two clicks on the handbrake now hold the car steady and there's no binding on the drums I know I'll be re-visiting this job again when the said 'self adjusters' are seized again! Best regards, H..
  6. Hi casuk, I reckon you'd be hard pressed to find a better mechanic than stef123 He's helped me out on this site in the past and he knows what he's doing I can vouch
  7. HenryV

    Mk6

    Hi Skippy, My timing belt project might be of interest to you; There's plenty of advice available on this site along the way believe me, I'm speaking from experience.
  8. Grant, For a mechanic it's almost certain to be a 'piece of cake' (sorry about the bakery puns)
  9. Grant, Don't worry about the ABS: The warning light is on because the ABS sensor has sensed that the rear nearside wheel isn't turning properly(which it isn't). This tells us that the ABS system is performing as it should. The pressure applied to the brake pads isn't being released for some reason. It must be investigated. 'How much does it cost to have the calipers serviced?' It's not a big job for a mechanic to deal with. Jobs like this are 'bread and butter' to an experienced mechanic and it Will be back on the road soon. He'll probably recommend new discs/pads but he will cure the cause as well as the symptoms.
  10. Hi Grant, The discs/pads may need replacing but they're not the cause of the problem. You really need to remove the caliper to find the cause; Maybe the caliper piston is seized? Maybe the handbrake mechanism is seized?
  11. Sorry for late reply F28 but I hadn't seen your post, Have you got it sorted? I don't have any record of the fault codes sorry. I didn't ever get a 'pump motor circuit failure' reading. IMHO and limited experience, single sensor issues are usually caused by the magnetic strip being corroded/perished on the wheel bearings. Dual sensor codes are a nightmare. I don't reckon your issue is really comparable with mine but please let me know how you've gotten on. H..
  12. Thanks Stef/Ian, Appreciated. I might have a look at improvising an adaptor to enable a better fastening for these blighters. Whatever I do, I'll post my result. Might take a while 'cause I'm just too busy with allsorts at the mo' H..
  13. Thanks MJ, 111 000 Miles and running like a Swiss clock
  14. Hi again folks, I'm about to (again) adjust my rear drum brake shoes. The last time I did them (2017), I replaced the rear (short) handbrake cables with genuine Ford 1335046 due to one of them being almost down to one thread. I remember the genuine new ones being 'unfit for purpose' in my humble opinion. I seem to remember that the 'collar' comes out of the hole in the drum housing when the handbrake is released. They were held in place by useless plastic 'wings'. Please could anybody with experience of this issue advise me on a trustworthy aftermarket alternative? The 'Holy grail' in my opinion would be cables with a locknut/fastener on the inside of the drum housing. Informed advice will/would be much appreciated. Best regards, H..