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Everything posted by HenryV

  1. 114,800 Miles and she's purring like a kitten. Any bets on her reaching 150,000?
  2. stef/ian, You were of course right in that the aftermarket cables are all a direct copy of the oem cables I got the rear brake set up sorted and must admit that my understanding of the mechanism of the rear brake drums was somewhat wanting The job was not my 'finest hour' I 'faffed' about with it for far too long However, along the way I realised that if the handbrake is too far out of sync with the shoes, then it compresses the return spring more than enough to pop the crap plastic wing anchor back through the hole in the drum mounting. I again cleaned/lubed the 'self adjusters' and Grindied off the lip on the inside of the drum to help me adjust the shoes more accurately Next was my foot on the brake pedal, hoping to hear the adjusters clicking Of course they did for now but they won't for long when they're covered in brake dust again Two clicks on the handbrake now hold the car steady and there's no binding on the drums I know I'll be re-visiting this job again when the said 'self adjusters' are seized again! Best regards, H..
  3. Hi casuk, I reckon you'd be hard pressed to find a better mechanic than stef123 He's helped me out on this site in the past and he knows what he's doing I can vouch
  4. HenryV


    Hi Skippy, My timing belt project might be of interest to you; There's plenty of advice available on this site along the way believe me, I'm speaking from experience.
  5. Grant, For a mechanic it's almost certain to be a 'piece of cake' (sorry about the bakery puns)
  6. Grant, Don't worry about the ABS: The warning light is on because the ABS sensor has sensed that the rear nearside wheel isn't turning properly(which it isn't). This tells us that the ABS system is performing as it should. The pressure applied to the brake pads isn't being released for some reason. It must be investigated. 'How much does it cost to have the calipers serviced?' It's not a big job for a mechanic to deal with. Jobs like this are 'bread and butter' to an experienced mechanic and it Will be back on the road soon. He'll probably recommend new discs/pads but he will cure the cause as well as the symptoms.
  7. Hi Grant, The discs/pads may need replacing but they're not the cause of the problem. You really need to remove the caliper to find the cause; Maybe the caliper piston is seized? Maybe the handbrake mechanism is seized?
  8. Sorry for late reply F28 but I hadn't seen your post, Have you got it sorted? I don't have any record of the fault codes sorry. I didn't ever get a 'pump motor circuit failure' reading. IMHO and limited experience, single sensor issues are usually caused by the magnetic strip being corroded/perished on the wheel bearings. Dual sensor codes are a nightmare. I don't reckon your issue is really comparable with mine but please let me know how you've gotten on. H..
  9. Thanks Stef/Ian, Appreciated. I might have a look at improvising an adaptor to enable a better fastening for these blighters. Whatever I do, I'll post my result. Might take a while 'cause I'm just too busy with allsorts at the mo' H..
  10. Thanks MJ, 111 000 Miles and running like a Swiss clock
  11. Hi again folks, I'm about to (again) adjust my rear drum brake shoes. The last time I did them (2017), I replaced the rear (short) handbrake cables with genuine Ford 1335046 due to one of them being almost down to one thread. I remember the genuine new ones being 'unfit for purpose' in my humble opinion. I seem to remember that the 'collar' comes out of the hole in the drum housing when the handbrake is released. They were held in place by useless plastic 'wings'. Please could anybody with experience of this issue advise me on a trustworthy aftermarket alternative? The 'Holy grail' in my opinion would be cables with a locknut/fastener on the inside of the drum housing. Informed advice will/would be much appreciated. Best regards, H..
  12. Happy that you got the job done MJ. Forscan is a truly great piece of software I say. I've been trying to fix an ABS/ESP issue on a VW Passat for too long and I've now come to the conclusion that I'm dealing with a failed ABS unit. I truly apologise for mentioning VW on a Ford site (& your thread) but read on; I'm about to send the unit to ECU testing dot com. I've used BBA Reman before which was extremely good (see my other post on this matter). I'll update you on their service if it's of any interest? My beloved Fiesta (Bes) has now done 111,000 Miles so thanks again for the timing kit MJ ;-)
  13. Approaching 110,000 miles and she's still running fine
  14. By the way Bronwyn, It seems that you're doing a good job after finishing the 'passengers side'. I'm not sure how experienced you are but you will sort that bolt; Do NOT, ever use open ended spanners unless you absolutely have no other option! Always use sockets or ring spanners. Bolts/nuts on cars are notoriously stubborn. I prefer 6 sided sockets. I've never been a fan of 'bi hexagonal' If you 'round' the bolt head, then post on here. Don't worry; That bolt will be out soon! H..
  15. Hi Bronwyn, Google 'Ford 1382597' for the bolt. Also, you might consider buying a tool like this to spread the slot in the 'knuckle'; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pc-STRUT-NUT-CLAMP-SPREADER-SOCKET-SET-by-BERGEN-TOOLS-1-2-Dr-Ford-BMW-VAG-etc/262518315432?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I did and it makes the job a doddle. £8.25 for two sizes I thought was a bargain. The smaller one does the mk6 Fiesta. Good luck, H..
  16. The second Ford hub nut (1008849) for the off side wheel arrived today. I gradually torqued it up to 290NM. I'm really glad to see the back of this job. My word I've spent some hours on it. I've learned a lot along the way though. Thanks again to all who gave advice/opinions to help me along the way I really do enjoy this website
  17. Just to clear things up; The nut that stripped and caused this debate was an LPB nut that came with the bearing and an unnecessary circlip. I stated earlier that the Ford nut stripped. My apologies for posting that misleading info I'm now off to Fleabay to find a Ford nut. Best regards and thanks again for your advice/input, H..
  18. ...and more interesting; I continued increasing Torque on the Ford nut and guess what? Yes, I'm at 290NM !! I went back to the LPB o/s nut and wound back the torque wrench to 180NM and again.. I got a 'click' 190NM, click. 200NM, errr, click. 210, no click, about to strip. Time for another Ford nut I reckon.
  19. Very interesting; I've continued increasing the torque by 10 NM on both front hub nuts.. The N/S is a genuine Ford. The O/S is LBP. I got to 220NM with both. I could tell that the Ford nut was performing much better than LPB. I went for 230NM.. The Ford nut gave the re-assuring click on my 500NM 3/4" drive torque wrench. The LPB is about to strip. No way on this Earth will that nut reach 290NM. I'm now minded to invest in another genuine Ford nut. All input to this thread is much appreciated. H..
  20. I've just this minute started gradually increasing the torque on both hub nuts by 10NM steps. I'm now at 210NM (the limit of my 1/2" drive torque wrench).
  21. Thanks Toms, It was indeed a virgin nut.
  22. Thanks again Ian, Yes, you're right on the 100 NM My mistake; I've just re-checked the Ford instruction and indeed the 100 NM is the 'pre-load' torque. I still find it impossible to believe that my type of hub nut will withstand 290 NM. The last one certainly didn't. However, The one that stripped was included with the 'LPB' bearing. It wasn't a genuine Ford nut. Could there be a difference?
  23. Thanks Ian & Stef, I highly respect your input to my threads. I've never been one for arguing anything. I do love to debate things though; Please give me your views on this subject because I would like to get to some sort of understanding. I honestly don't believe anyone is wrong here. I have now got five different hub nut torque instructions for the MK5/6 Fiesta (mine was built in 2005 and registered in 2006): 1. IanTT. Etis 290 NM 2. IanTT. Autodata 290 NM 3. Haynes. 290 NM 4. Ford. 100 NM 5. Ford 290 NM I seem to remember reading online that the hub nut was changed at some point; Here's mine ( Ford 1008849); Here's the other (Ford 4659413); Whilst I'm always ready to admit that I'm not (by a long way) a professional car mechanic, I am a 'fairly' experienced mechanical engineer and have very much experience in cutting screw threads; Metric, BSW, BSF, UNF, UNC, ACME, square, helicoil and cutting threads on lathes up to 1/4" TPI. I know a thread that can hold 290 NM. I'm embarrassed to say that with hindsight, the Ford 1008849 was visually not capable of handling 290NM. I have a 500NM 3/4 drive torque wrench. I increased torque by 20 NM each step after 100 NM. My Ford 1008849 stripped at about 180-200 NM. It was made of multiple 'slices' of steel, the like that I haven't seen before. Please reply Ian & Stef, Which nut have you torqued to 290 NM ? I'd really appreciate a consensus on this matter. I'm more than ready to accept any conclusive verdict on this issue ;-) Best regards, H..
  24. Hi again folks, The used genuine Ford sensor arrived today from Fleabay/breakers. I swapped it with the useless after market sensor that's never worked and... BINGO!!! The ABS light went out just after setting off. 108, 300 Miles now. Bye for now, H..