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Everything posted by HenryV

  1. Sorry for late reply F28 but I hadn't seen your post, Have you got it sorted? I don't have any record of the fault codes sorry. I didn't ever get a 'pump motor circuit failure' reading. IMHO and limited experience, single sensor issues are usually caused by the magnetic strip being corroded/perished on the wheel bearings. Dual sensor codes are a nightmare. I don't reckon your issue is really comparable with mine but please let me know how you've gotten on. H..
  2. Thanks Stef/Ian, Appreciated. I might have a look at improvising an adaptor to enable a better fastening for these blighters. Whatever I do, I'll post my result. Might take a while 'cause I'm just too busy with allsorts at the mo' H..
  3. Thanks MJ, 111 000 Miles and running like a Swiss clock
  4. Hi again folks, I'm about to (again) adjust my rear drum brake shoes. The last time I did them (2017), I replaced the rear (short) handbrake cables with genuine Ford 1335046 due to one of them being almost down to one thread. I remember the genuine new ones being 'unfit for purpose' in my humble opinion. I seem to remember that the 'collar' comes out of the hole in the drum housing when the handbrake is released. They were held in place by useless plastic 'wings'. Please could anybody with experience of this issue advise me on a trustworthy aftermarket alternative? The 'Holy grail' in my opinion would be cables with a locknut/fastener on the inside of the drum housing. Informed advice will/would be much appreciated. Best regards, H..
  5. Happy that you got the job done MJ. Forscan is a truly great piece of software I say. I've been trying to fix an ABS/ESP issue on a VW Passat for too long and I've now come to the conclusion that I'm dealing with a failed ABS unit. I truly apologise for mentioning VW on a Ford site (& your thread) but read on; I'm about to send the unit to ECU testing dot com. I've used BBA Reman before which was extremely good (see my other post on this matter). I'll update you on their service if it's of any interest? My beloved Fiesta (Bes) has now done 111,000 Miles so thanks again for the timing kit MJ ;-)
  6. Approaching 110,000 miles and she's still running fine
  7. By the way Bronwyn, It seems that you're doing a good job after finishing the 'passengers side'. I'm not sure how experienced you are but you will sort that bolt; Do NOT, ever use open ended spanners unless you absolutely have no other option! Always use sockets or ring spanners. Bolts/nuts on cars are notoriously stubborn. I prefer 6 sided sockets. I've never been a fan of 'bi hexagonal' If you 'round' the bolt head, then post on here. Don't worry; That bolt will be out soon! H..
  8. Hi Bronwyn, Google 'Ford 1382597' for the bolt. Also, you might consider buying a tool like this to spread the slot in the 'knuckle'; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pc-STRUT-NUT-CLAMP-SPREADER-SOCKET-SET-by-BERGEN-TOOLS-1-2-Dr-Ford-BMW-VAG-etc/262518315432?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I did and it makes the job a doddle. £8.25 for two sizes I thought was a bargain. The smaller one does the mk6 Fiesta. Good luck, H..
  9. The second Ford hub nut (1008849) for the off side wheel arrived today. I gradually torqued it up to 290NM. I'm really glad to see the back of this job. My word I've spent some hours on it. I've learned a lot along the way though. Thanks again to all who gave advice/opinions to help me along the way I really do enjoy this website
  10. Just to clear things up; The nut that stripped and caused this debate was an LPB nut that came with the bearing and an unnecessary circlip. I stated earlier that the Ford nut stripped. My apologies for posting that misleading info I'm now off to Fleabay to find a Ford nut. Best regards and thanks again for your advice/input, H..
  11. ...and more interesting; I continued increasing Torque on the Ford nut and guess what? Yes, I'm at 290NM !! I went back to the LPB o/s nut and wound back the torque wrench to 180NM and again.. I got a 'click' 190NM, click. 200NM, errr, click. 210, no click, about to strip. Time for another Ford nut I reckon.
  12. Very interesting; I've continued increasing the torque by 10 NM on both front hub nuts.. The N/S is a genuine Ford. The O/S is LBP. I got to 220NM with both. I could tell that the Ford nut was performing much better than LPB. I went for 230NM.. The Ford nut gave the re-assuring click on my 500NM 3/4" drive torque wrench. The LPB is about to strip. No way on this Earth will that nut reach 290NM. I'm now minded to invest in another genuine Ford nut. All input to this thread is much appreciated. H..
  13. I've just this minute started gradually increasing the torque on both hub nuts by 10NM steps. I'm now at 210NM (the limit of my 1/2" drive torque wrench).
  14. Thanks Toms, It was indeed a virgin nut.
  15. Thanks again Ian, Yes, you're right on the 100 NM My mistake; I've just re-checked the Ford instruction and indeed the 100 NM is the 'pre-load' torque. I still find it impossible to believe that my type of hub nut will withstand 290 NM. The last one certainly didn't. However, The one that stripped was included with the 'LPB' bearing. It wasn't a genuine Ford nut. Could there be a difference?
  16. Thanks Ian & Stef, I highly respect your input to my threads. I've never been one for arguing anything. I do love to debate things though; Please give me your views on this subject because I would like to get to some sort of understanding. I honestly don't believe anyone is wrong here. I have now got five different hub nut torque instructions for the MK5/6 Fiesta (mine was built in 2005 and registered in 2006): 1. IanTT. Etis 290 NM 2. IanTT. Autodata 290 NM 3. Haynes. 290 NM 4. Ford. 100 NM 5. Ford 290 NM I seem to remember reading online that the hub nut was changed at some point; Here's mine ( Ford 1008849); Here's the other (Ford 4659413); Whilst I'm always ready to admit that I'm not (by a long way) a professional car mechanic, I am a 'fairly' experienced mechanical engineer and have very much experience in cutting screw threads; Metric, BSW, BSF, UNF, UNC, ACME, square, helicoil and cutting threads on lathes up to 1/4" TPI. I know a thread that can hold 290 NM. I'm embarrassed to say that with hindsight, the Ford 1008849 was visually not capable of handling 290NM. I have a 500NM 3/4 drive torque wrench. I increased torque by 20 NM each step after 100 NM. My Ford 1008849 stripped at about 180-200 NM. It was made of multiple 'slices' of steel, the like that I haven't seen before. Please reply Ian & Stef, Which nut have you torqued to 290 NM ? I'd really appreciate a consensus on this matter. I'm more than ready to accept any conclusive verdict on this issue ;-) Best regards, H..
  17. Hi again folks, The used genuine Ford sensor arrived today from Fleabay/breakers. I swapped it with the useless after market sensor that's never worked and... BINGO!!! The ABS light went out just after setting off. 108, 300 Miles now. Bye for now, H..
  18. By the way folks, I followed Haynes instruction whilst tackling the bearing job; The front hub nut on my car is definitely NOT to be tightened to 290 NM !!! Ford says 100 NM With hindsight, I should have cross referenced Ford/Haynes along the way. Definitely NOT my 'finest hour'. I stripped a hub nut by following Haynes. Of course, there's another on the way from 'Fleabay' !! My advice to DIY mechanics; Visit workshop-manuals dotcom for Ford instructions and always take Haynes with a pinch of salt! Regards, H..
  19. I've now changed both wheel bearings folks. What a blooming job! My code reader was reading two faults: 1 Bearing issue 2 No signal from front o/s sensor After replacing the bearings I got one reading: 1 No signal from front o/s sensor I swapped the o/s and n/s sensors round.. ..and the reader said, 1 No signal from front n/s sensor! Surely, I've now got a duff sensor again? This job is now draining my will to battle on. I've ordered another replacement genuine used/2nd hand sensor from 'Fleabay' which I hope to fit this coming weekend. If that doesn't put the matter to bed I'm lost. If the OBD reader indicates that the fault moves from o/s to n/s when I swap the sensor from the o/s to the n/s then surely the sensor is duff? Surely?? I also, along the way had to replace the lower arm ball joints. Both had perished dust boots, split around the seam. Another pain in the ar$e job! MOT coming round soon too :-( As usual, any advice will be appreciated. Here's plenty of pics but no running commentary this time sorry; Anyone spotted revised 'Cranbolt Henry'? ;-)
  20. The bloomin' ABS light keeps coming on again! Got to be the bearing I reckon. I'm hoping to have a go at it this weekend. I've already bought two bearings from 'Fleabay'. Fault reader indicates front offside issue, so I'm hoping to find time to change the bearing this weekend. I might actually do both the O/S and N/S. H..
  21. I've now done another 400 Miles and still no ABS light! H..
  22. I've now got this job sorted after spending a lot of time working out what was happening. I did indeed swap the front sensors over again, expecting to see the same fault code on my OBD reader. When I swapped them and cleared the fault code, I drove off fully expecting to see the ABS light return. It didn't and it hasn't since! After doing some research, I found that the tip of the sensor isn't the surface that reads the magnetic signal. The signal is read from the surface highlighted in the pic below; It reads the signal from the 'side wall' of the bearing as shown below; It appears that in my case, the tip of the front offside sensor was catching/rubbing on something. Maybe the drive shafts have a build up of rust? When I swapped them, this resulted in the 'well worn' and thus shorter nearside sensor being on the offside and clearing the rust/obstacle and not being disturbed. This is only my theory by the way. The final job was to use Forscan to 'service bleed' the ABS system with the assistance of my bruv. On the MK6 Fiesta with hindsight, the job would be easiest with all four wheels off the car. Forscan bleeds the front brakes first, Then the rear brakes, Then the front again, Then the rear again. We started with the front end up, then had to move my trolley jacks to the rear, then back to the front.... Next time, I'll lift the whole car. Lesson learned! There's a lot of brake pedal pushing along the way too! Here's a quick clip of us completing the process and the laptop lists each step along the way; Brakes are fine now (fingers crossed). Best regards, H.
  23. ...My next plan is to swap the front sensors over again and see if the same fault code persists. I'll update when I get any more info. H..
  24. So I've been struggling to think of what to try next. As I understand it my front bearings are the 'alternate magnet' type and there isn't any toothed tone ring. However, I've started a new chain of thought; When I was searching for a replacement sensor, I noticed all the pictures of the sensors had a flat bottom edge. Here's an example; The replacement I got from the breakers was likewise; My original two sensors seem to have a radius/arch worn into them; The Ford part No. for these sensors is 1151951 by the way. Could it be that my front wheel bearings are indeed getting worn and that they're catching/wearing the sensors? The car has now done 104 000 miles. I can't seem to detect any obvious signs of bearing fatigue though. Any thoughts? H..
  25. ...Soon after speaking to the guy at Reman, I realised that I'd slipped up with my fault finding procedure; It hadn't dawned on me that the front sensors are interchangeable and that I could've tried swapping the sensors over to see if the wheel sensor fault moved from the right wheel to the left. The module soon arrived back from Reman, so I set about rebuilding/refurbing the brake system. Then I got my bruv to help me manually bleed the brakes. I'm still hoping to do a Forscan service bleed eventually. I swapped the original front wheel sensors over and cleared the original fault code using my OBD reader. I set off in the car and as expected, soon saw the ABS warning light come back on. I again read the fault with my OBD reader and indeed the fault was now a 'Front LEFT wheel sensor signal' fault! At this point I thought I'd nailed the issue down to needing a genuine Ford replacement sensor. Next day, I set off on a 'scrapyard challenge' looking for a replacement Ford sensor. I found a breakers yard with a newer, lower mileage Fiesta in. I stripped off the sensor (appeared to be in good nick) and the guy let me have it for a Tenner. I got home and put the 'new' sensor on the front left and set off in the car. The ABS light went OUT!... ...Only to come back on after 20 seconds or so. I again plug in my OBD reader and get C1142 'Front Right Tone Ring Tooth Missing' fault! More to come...