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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

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About Yungog

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  • Ford Model
    Focus cmax
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  1. Maf brand matter?

    Checked the turbo actuator rod and it moves up and down when its revved ,tho I wouldn't say smoothly. It does move so I'm guessing that the vanes aren't knackered? Should have the maf by the end of the week so boost issue will hopefully be fixed when it arrives :D
  2. Maf brand matter?

    Sorry for the late reply. Disconnected the maf a few days ago. Car feels smoother through the revs, haven't noticed any boost issues with it been disconnected. Can you tell me how to check the turbo vanes and where it is? I've replaced the turbo pressure solenoid ( the brown box with 3 tubes going to it) about a year ago.
  3. I was using elmconfig 2.17 version. I had an issue the first time I tried,it was because the pcm type selected was wrong. I think it was set on 1.6,1.8 petrol when my car is the 1.6tdci. I just changed it to the 1.6tdci and worked perfectly.
  4. All I had to do was Read from gem Tick cruise control Write to gem Read from hec Tick cruise control Write to hec Read pcm Tick cruise control configuration Write to pcm. Thats all that was needed for mine to work. No messing with firmware.
  5. Have you selected the right 'pcm type' on the stop down box? When I activated cruise control I was getting an error. I changed the pcm type to my car ,a 1.6tdci. It was on something else when I got the error.
  6. Lots of fault codes!! limp mode, help please

    Lovely,great result
  7. Lots of fault codes!! limp mode, help please

    Have you cleared the codes and brought it for a run? Some of the codes could be old ones and were never cleared
  8. Maf brand matter?

    I actually only bought a modified elm327 cable the other day and activated cruise control. So I'll hook that up and check for fault codes once the snow f**ks off as the laptop needs to be plugged all the time. The Bluetooth obd I use is a crappy Chinese $2 one and that's only reading one code,p138b. And that relates to the glow plugs. Egr is blanked off so shouldn't be an issue with that. Will try disconnecting the maf and test it without when I'm going for a good run, was just worried about doing damage with it running lean. Its the 110bhp model. Thanks
  9. Maf brand matter?

    Thanks lads,I'll go for the expensive one. I have acceleration issues,that's why I was gonna get a new maf but been told by someone else it not the problem. Basically what happens is when I the turbo boost kicks in, it boosts for a second around 2k revs then stops then kicks back in from 3k to 4k revs. I used an obd and torque app and measured the maf reading and the boost reading. When it works properly the readings increase together. When the problem happens the maf reading drops from say 80g/s to like 50g/s ,then a second later goes back to normal. Am I right in thinking if I disconnect the maf sensor and drive for awhile and if the problem doesn't happen then its defo the maf? Thanks sorry for the grappy explanation
  10. Maf brand matter?

    Buying a new maf sensor. Car is a 04 cmax 1.6tdci. Found new ones on eBay like this one for about £45 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F131719532148 Carparts4less has a branded pierburg one for £109. So there's some difference in price and wondering is the pierburg one better in terms of sensors internally or would the £45 one do? Thanks
  11. Ford Focus Mk2 1,6 TDCI Glow Plug Fault

    Have had that code now for over a year now. Like yours ,bit smoky and burning smell on start up. Had people suggest that it could be the glow plug relay. But was never arsed with it as I can live with it.!
  12. Oil light, loud engine noise

    Bit of late update. Decided to tackle the leak on the engine. Took the injectors out,they were all good. So took the cambox apart and the chain tensioner the piece of plastic that holds the chain tight had broken apart!!!! So that would explain why the car was running like s**t and sounding like a tractor! I'm shocked at how it has kept running. This would explain the oil around the engine, it had caused an oil leak. Got a replaced and put it together. Sounded a lot better! Now to tackle the oil pressure. I replaced the pressure switch twice but did nothing. So dropped the sump and found bits a metal in the sump,the oil strainer(I think that's what its called) had fragments of metal on the filter so must have been restricting oil flow. There's obviously some kind of bearing wearing. It seems when the plastic tensioner broke off pieces of it went to the sump and caused this. Took it apart, cleaned the strainer, and the sump. Put it back together. Got two bottles of oil treatment ,put them in, put new oil in. Car runs a lot better now,and no oil light 2,000miles later!!!
  13. Well people ,love the info here. Ordered the modified elm327 the other day from amazon and should arrive soon. Only went to check the connections today and see that I'm missing the brown and white cables that go to pin 10 and 18. Typical!!! From what I can see my module is BF so should be able to activate. Checked under the pedals and there's switches but unsure if there correct . I've added pics of them can someone confirm there correct? My plan was to run to cables from pin 10 and 18 and wire a cc switch myself and add it to the radio stalk meself. And then activate it through elm config. Let me know if the images are to crap.lol
  14. Well I'm having yet another issue with my cmax 1.6tdci. Yesterday I was on my way to get my daughter from school and the oil light flickered on for about a second . thought nothing of it then it happened a second time. Pulled over engine sounded louder and could hear a knocking noise. Checked oil level ,all was good. Said feck it I'll look at it when home. On the way home the light came back on but stayed on. Thought maybe because I hadn't serviced it yet,I usually do it at 6,000miles but was 7,000 miles since I last did it. So gave it a service,oil and filter and air filter. Oil light now doesn't stay on,but noticed it takes a few seconds longer to go off now tho. Engine noise is still there,sounds like tapping. Now there's a bit of an oilly black liquid around the injector area and was told it may be a leaking injector. Its been there awhile since haven't gotten a change to do it. Was told it would be OK. Dreading it now as I've had plenty of issues with this car but always got them sorted straight away. Will kick meself if it fecks this engine over not servicing it bang on 6,000miles as I usually do or over a leaking injector. Any ideas what this might be?