Yungog

Budding Enthusiast
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Everything posted by Yungog

  1. Have the same issue with my mk1 cmax. Have had the issue for a few months and not arsed fixing it as I'll have to replace the whole door mechanism. It is annoying the whole locking itself thing. Missus left the key in the Car once and the car locked itself . Lucky we had a spare and could open the boot as the drivers door wouldn't open .
  2. I had the same king of problem with my mk1 cmax Engine malfunction light on it intermittently. Wouldn't start and loss power sometimes. Mine stopped when I unplugged an obd I had left plugged in. Apparently theres a fault with the Dash's themselves and they need to be resolder. Try giving the dash a bang when it happens again. I'm not sure if the issue would be the same yours is newer model but Worth a try
  3. What absolute scumbags.!! Really need a rear dashcam that records even with car of. Only way to cover ourselves from these scumbags.
  4. Keep driving till engine goes boom and do not replace it. I replaced my 1.6tdci engine 2 weeks after buying the car. Worst mistake,engine I got from the scrapyard was s**t and after awhile I had to replace the whole top end of that engine and I still have problems with the car. Rather scrap it and buy another one, you,d get a full car for the price of an engine and labour (unless your in the trade and do it yourself )
  5. I'm not 100% sure if I'm thinking of the same pipe as you but mine has a pipe like that and I'm pretty sure it's a breather pipe( unsure of exact name) and that it's meant to hang there. Someone else will be along to clarify or tell me I'm a gobs*ite . :P
  6. To me sounds like there's an immobilizer issue. That electricity transformer I'd say has nothing to do with it. Have you checked for error codes?
  7. Get rid of it now!! I was in the same back in 2016. Bought a cmax 1.6tdci. Turbo blew 2 weeks later due to the last owner not giving a toss about the car which in turn destroyed the engine. I replaced engine and turbo. Engine that was put in was pure crap. I've spend at least 2-3 times the value of the car in 2 Years and I'm still having issues with it. Cut your losses unless your a mechanic but even my mechanic got sick of seeing it!!!
  8. Rattling may be low oil.? You check oil level? Get it plugged in and see if fault codes have been recorded
  9. Right back to square one . Issue still remains. I've Blanked egr Turbo itself only has about 27,000 miles New maf New map New pressure converter Can't find any cracks or leaks Any other ideas?
  10. Update: Part arrived today. Threw it in Car sounded smoother and not as loud. Drove for about 20km and no boost issue. Drove in 2nd and 3rd gear and floored it a few times and no issue. Seems to drive and pull smoother. Although all this could be a placebo effect! :p Hopefully its sorted. Will update after a few hundred km .
  11. Ye I think most people do that the first time they feel abs kick in. Previous car and motorbikes didn't have abs so when it kicked in first time in my cmax ,I was like wtf!!! :p
  12. Hi Battery and alternator all good. Ye I've cleared these codes numerous times and the only one that disappears is the egr one and only comes up every now and again but that is because the egr is blanked. I've ordered the pressure converter and is due to be here next week :) Couldn't seem to find those tests on forscan. I'm still fairly new to forscan so probably just couldn't see it :p Hopefully changing this will fix the turbo issue as it wasn't too bad before as in if I kept my foot from going the whole way down it wouldn't happen but now its happening and happening more frequently, very scary when overtaking or going up/down a sliproad or junction.!!
  13. Could be air in the system and needs to be bled. I had the same issue on my car. Turned out it was the master cylinder had f**led itself up. I thought it was air in the system and only when I went to bleed it,it started pouring brake fluid everywhere .
  14. I have the same issue. It,ll turn left easily and unlock but turning right won't work unless I turn the key left then push the lock in and turn right while its pushed in.
  15. Sorry only getting back now. Need to get me one of those laptop car chargers . Did a few bits on the car. Changed the map sensor , 3 of the glow plugs weren't working so changed all 4 plugs. Fixed exhaust leak. Issue still there. So today ran forscan Got these P138b I thought was the glow plugs but must be the relay. The turbo one I seem to think its the pressure converter. I only changed it about a year or 2 ago. Anyway to check it before I buy another one?
  16. As far I can remember there wasn't any under/over boost codes when I checked with forscan. I'll have to check again to make sure. The egr is blanked off so I'm guessing it wouldn't matter what the egr is doing?? The new maf has a normal reading now(increasing with rpm). The actuator was moving as the car is revved ,tho not sure of its movement when the car is actually driving. Im unable to monitor driving with forscan as my ancient laptop needs to be on charge all the time!!!! I'll fiddle with torque and see if I can monitor and record data. Another thing I've recently is this only seems to happen when I put the pedal to floor,but if I have the pedal down say 75-80% of the way I haven't noticed it happening. Maybe throttle position sensor?
  17. Ye just got the replacement maf yesterday. Has that same gold mark on top, Couldn't be my old one as I only sent it to the post office the day before I received this one so must be a new design for them? Good explanation on it. They all look in sync with each other so if one reading is off,they all go haywire! So I drove 100km yesterday and only noticed a slight drop in boost only once. But today driving It feels like it was before so new maf didn't fix it!!! Any ideas lads? I'm thinking the catalytic converter is blocked. Would this cause these issues do you think?
  18. If the filter isn't getting fuel,surely it means there's a problem with the fuel pump? Or there's a blockage in the fuel lines?
  19. If number 4 isn't working I'd be inclined to think the motor fan isn't working. Can you take it out and put 12v to it and see if it spins? Or open it up and check if 12v is at it when you turn it on?
  20. Ye the main issue is that lag in boost. Also been getting worse mpg. I did a reading awhile ago of the old maf and boost while driving. Normally they both increase then all of sudden the maf would reading would drop all of a sudden and that's when the boost would stop and drop then pick up a few seconds later. Checked for leaks and there's none anywhere. My limited knowledge indicates to me a faulty maf. Checked all connections and all were good. I haven't noticed the problem since the maf has been disconnected. Yep has a little sticker on it saying pierburg,came in a pierburg box. Bought it from mister auto online. Always get my car stuff from them and never had an issue with them before. Although what I noticed was the pierburg box had been opened prior to me getting it as the sticker that holds the flap down was ripped open! Ye its very odd it showing the connections. It feels and looks like silicone/glue over it. Defo doesn't look like it should be like that. That's why we thought it was tampered with/repaired .
  21. Sound. Ye I'm pretty sure its faulty. The code went away as soon as the old one was put back in. This is a picture of the top of it. A friend suggested it looks tampered with or it was damaged and attempted to be fixed. I've never seen one with this gold on top
  22. So hooked up laptop to the car. Wiped and re read DTC codes. Getting pcm0103-61 constantly. Under the service procedure I reset intake air throttle valve position offset. There's nothing about clearing adaptions There is PCM module reset. Would that be it?
  23. Sound will hook it up to the car soon and try it. Does this need to be done every time the maf is disconnected? If not it will keep the default value even if an maf sensor is plugged in?