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frenchspanner

Budding Enthusiast
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About frenchspanner

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Keith
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Mondeo Mk 4 2.0 tdci
  • Ford Year
    2007
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Devon

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  1. Hi Peter, Yes, definitely down to battery strength, which was good enough but not via jump leads, even with a booster/starter pack connected as well, which did surprise me. I had a similar reading on Forscan until I went to crank, which is when an error message came up, so may well have been due to connection via jump leads, will have another go when I've finished re-taping the looms and putting the bits back. The Focus is a cracking car, I had the original shape one with 10,000 miles on it, a 2001 model and was really impressed with it, great handling and I found it really enjoyable
  2. Hi again, Well, I did try to upload a 7 second video clip so you could share in my celebration :-). Car is starting on 1st turn of the key, so a big thank you to everyone for their input, it has all been helpful but especially to Peter for all the time he has taken to provide the advice and information he has, thank you. Hopefully to save anyone else inadvertently doing what I did, here's what happened today: I bled the system from the diesel return pipe and some air did come out but there was still a bubble on the feed side of the pump that just would not pull through with the hand
  3. Thank you Stoney, I thought it was anything over 12.6v is ok, I will put it on charge now and give it a another try tomorrow. Yes, I'm really glad I stuck with it, (even though it was more a case of needs must and I couldn't bare the thought or the cost of taking it to a Ford dealer). I was really chuffed when I found it, all codes cleared and it turned over. Just took the shine off it a little bit when it wouldn't fire, but hopefully something simple.
  4. Thank you Stoney, I haven't checked via cigarette lighter socket but just checked battery directly, (been stood for couple of hours, not connected to car). Getting a reading of 12.78 volts.
  5. Well, some good news. I have traced the Rd/Gn wire from the ABS plug and it travels up to a plug mounted at the top of the bulkhead just under the windscreen. after disconnecting the plug, I checked the voltage from the EJB to the plug and the voltage was about 0.6v, so after removing even more insulation, I traced the wire back from the plug and found a 'lump' in the wire... Checked voltage either side.. . I've cut out 'lump' and temporarily twisted wires toget
  6. Hello again, A delayed update as I have been away for a little while: I checked the resistance between the CAN bus lines and got around 44k ohm, so that seems to agree with your revised info Peter. I have gone through every wire on the ABS plug and checked for voltage with ignition on and off. Pins 1 (Rd/Ye) & 25 (Rd) = battery voltage, ign. off or on. Pins 5 & 6 (H/S CAN) 2.7v & 2.4 respectively ign. on. Pin 33 (Gy) battery voltage ign. on. Pin 7 (Gn/Rd) 0.3v ign. on or off. As the Can bus has checked out ok and the unit seems to have power, I reluctantly acknowledged th
  7. Thanks Peter. Yes, I've been thinking about those three wires I found, I did check for continuity by placing a pin an inch or so either side of the damage and got a continuity buzzer for each wire. I guess even though each wire isn't completely broken maybe it's enough to restrict the required current. I was reluctant to start cutting wires because the car parking for the houses is remote to my house and I can't get power to the cars location, so soldering is an issue. I think I will 'splice' a piece of wire to bypass the damage, without actually cutting through the existing cable, using the d
  8. Thank you Peter. Does it mean that there is a fault with the unit or a connection issue including a bad earth to unit or any of those? I have had the unit completely disconnected looking for the MS-CAN twisted pair and reconnected the plugs, so they are definitely properly seated and look clean. I've also checked all the fuses as the passenger fuse box is part of the same unit as the GEM/BCM. (I put it this way just to clarify to myself I'm not talking about the Brake system Control Module, (which I don't know it's location unless it's part of the ABS unit). So, to clarify in my mind, ev
  9. Hi Peter thanks for your post, I was typing the above and putting on some graphics when it came through and didn't notice it until I submitted reply. The IPC self test came back clear so I don't know if there could still be a problem there. I had thought about resistance testing the HS-CAN pins on the ABS unit itself, if I can get to them but as there is no terminating resistor would I expect to see a specific reading or nothing when it's disconnected and no power to it?
  10. Hi, As a bit of an update; With the plug removed the corresponding MS-CAN bus pins on the GEM/BCM unit gave a reading of 124 ohms, so that seems to check out ok. I've had another session with the Forscan and took some screenshots as follows; DTC scan result in HS-CAN mode: DTC scan result after switching to MS-CAN mode: List of Modules: Self test screen: No ABS listed. PCM test just advised P0113 Temperature sensor due air cleaner removed: IPC test came
  11. Hi, Thank you for your replies, yes the 121.2 ohm measurement was with the plugs removed from the GEM/BCM. I will check if I can get access to recheck the measurement with the plug in situ. (The previous HS-CAN reading of 61.7 ohms I got from ABS plug was with it unplugged also). I also forgot to confirm that I tested pins 3 & 11 on the diagnostic socket before the ELM237 came and got a reading of 61 ohms. I re-ran the diagnostic scan and I'm pretty sure there were no IPC errors listed on computer screen until the Forscan prompted for the ELM237 unit to be switched from HS to MS
  12. Hello again, I've now purchased and received the ELM237 unit and downloaded the Forscan software. After running the diagnostic on the car, I get the following: DTC's in PCM; PO1113P Intake air temperature sensor high input - (Probably due to removing air cleaner to access loom). UO129 (:00-2F) Lost communication with Brake System Control module DTC's in BCMii; UO121 (:00-2F) Lost communication with ABS module UO199 Lost communication with Door Control Module (There is a break in the wire to the drivers door som
  13. Thank you Peter. The GEM is part of the passenger fuse box, so I will look for the MS CAN bus twisted pair there and check resistance and then try to follow it up to the A/C unit and look for a junction with the twisted pair of the H/S CAN bus and check the connection. I'm not sure about the anti-theft system, I don't know if it's a PATS system with the LED, it may have been updated when the ABS was incorporated into the immobiliser circuit. I'll reconnect the battery and look for a red light, it's not between the instrument dials like previous models but might be one on top of dash
  14. Hi Peter, Thanks for your reply, yes using the Delphi diagnostic the five codes listed are 'picked' up. When selecting 'Erase DTCs' the U0121 Lost communication with ABS module and U0129 Lost communication with Brake System Control module change from red to green and then are removed from the DTC summary on main screen. U0415 Invalid data received from ABS module, U0416 Invalid data received from Vehicle Dynamics module & U0422 Invalid data received from Body Control Module when selected for 'Erase' stay red and then show with a red line through them instead of turning green and remai
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