Budding Enthusiast
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About frenchspanner

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • First Name
  • Gender*
  • Ford Model
    Mondeo Mk 4 2.0 tdci
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi Peter, Yes, definitely down to battery strength, which was good enough but not via jump leads, even with a booster/starter pack connected as well, which did surprise me. I had a similar reading on Forscan until I went to crank, which is when an error message came up, so may well have been due to connection via jump leads, will have another go when I've finished re-taping the looms and putting the bits back. The Focus is a cracking car, I had the original shape one with 10,000 miles on it, a 2001 model and was really impressed with it, great handling and I found it really enjoyable to drive. My sister had it off me in 2009 and it's still going strong now, 130,000 miles later, It has never let either of us down, probably last year for it as corrosion is starting to take hold underneath and the welding required would be in an inaccessible area if needed for next MOT. I also think the latest shape one is a really attractive car as well. Thanks again for your advice and assistance.
  2. Hi again, Well, I did try to upload a 7 second video clip so you could share in my celebration :-). Car is starting on 1st turn of the key, so a big thank you to everyone for their input, it has all been helpful but especially to Peter for all the time he has taken to provide the advice and information he has, thank you. Hopefully to save anyone else inadvertently doing what I did, here's what happened today: I bled the system from the diesel return pipe and some air did come out but there was still a bubble on the feed side of the pump that just would not pull through with the hand bleed pump I used, (proper Draper fuel bleed tool). The car still wouldn't start. The battery has been charged up and was, I thought cranking ok. (I tried live data on Forscan but as soon as I started cranking an error message kept coming up on screen). Due to the fact the battery tray has been removed to get access to wiring loom, I had battery connected via jump leads with an additional car starter/booster pack attached for some extra juice and as I say I thought car was cranking pretty well. Before I packed up for the afternoon to have a good sulk, I balanced the battery as best as I could in the car and connected it directly.................................... started first turn of the key!! Lesson learned! Thanks and regards, Keith (N.B. I've got 'Notify me of replies' ticked but I never get a notification, do I need to do something else? It's just that if anyone else has 'Immobiliser active' message and wants to know exact location of problem wire I had, I won't know they have asked the question if they add it to this topic).
  3. Thank you Stoney, I thought it was anything over 12.6v is ok, I will put it on charge now and give it a another try tomorrow. Yes, I'm really glad I stuck with it, (even though it was more a case of needs must and I couldn't bare the thought or the cost of taking it to a Ford dealer). I was really chuffed when I found it, all codes cleared and it turned over. Just took the shine off it a little bit when it wouldn't fire, but hopefully something simple.
  4. Thank you Stoney, I haven't checked via cigarette lighter socket but just checked battery directly, (been stood for couple of hours, not connected to car). Getting a reading of 12.78 volts.
  5. Well, some good news. I have traced the Rd/Gn wire from the ABS plug and it travels up to a plug mounted at the top of the bulkhead just under the windscreen. after disconnecting the plug, I checked the voltage from the EJB to the plug and the voltage was about 0.6v, so after removing even more insulation, I traced the wire back from the plug and found a 'lump' in the wire... Checked voltage either side.. . I've cut out 'lump' and temporarily twisted wires together and tried to start.......No 'Immobiliser Active' message and car turned over immediately. I reconnected scanner cleared DTCs and rescanned, just the IAT sensor one, so plugged air cleaner connector back in and retried. All codes clear :-) ... The only thing is, is the car won't fire up! I don't know if it's because it's been stood for so long but it's just turning over, no hint of spluttering to life. I have noticed that the green dashboard direction indicators are flashing intermittently as it turns over. Does this mean anything in particular? All DTCs are still clear after cranking, there is diesel in the feed pipe at the engine and I couldn't see an airlock.
  6. Hello again, A delayed update as I have been away for a little while: I checked the resistance between the CAN bus lines and got around 44k ohm, so that seems to agree with your revised info Peter. I have gone through every wire on the ABS plug and checked for voltage with ignition on and off. Pins 1 (Rd/Ye) & 25 (Rd) = battery voltage, ign. off or on. Pins 5 & 6 (H/S CAN) 2.7v & 2.4 respectively ign. on. Pin 33 (Gy) battery voltage ign. on. Pin 7 (Gn/Rd) 0.3v ign. on or off. As the Can bus has checked out ok and the unit seems to have power, I reluctantly acknowledged that a new ABS module is required. However, just a few minutes ago, I actually managed to find some diagnostic info re Mondeo Mk4 ABS.................. DTC Table -. C12900 No communication with the anti-block brake system module. GO to Pinpoint Test AB. I got U0129 but I guess this must be the same. Pinpoint test AB....... AB23: CHECK THE VOLTAGE AT THE ESP MODULE 1 Measure the voltage between the ESP module, connector C1CA01, pin 7, circuit SBB36A (GN/RD), wiring harness side and ground. Is battery voltage measured? Yes GO to AB25. No GO to AB24. (No voltage was about 0.3v slightly less with ign. on). AB24: CHECK FOR OPEN CIRCUIT BETWEEN THE EJB AND THE ESP MODULE 1 Disconnect Connector C1BB01-A from the EJB. 2 Measure the resistance between the EJB, connector C1BB01-A, pin 41, circuit SBB36AB (GN/RD), wiring harness side and the ESP module, connector C1CA01, pin 7, circuit SBB36A (GN/RD), wiring harness side. Is a resistance of less than 2 Ohms measured? Yes CHECK and if necessary RENEW the EJB. CHECK system operates correctly No LOCATE and REPAIR the break in the circuit between the electronic stability program module and the EJB using the Wiring Diagrams. CHECK system operates correctly. I'm assuming the EJB is engine bay fuse box, I've just got to try and identify pin 41 at the correct connector and check resistance. A question I have is; To test, would I be ok to provide a temporary battery voltage supply to pin 7 at the ABS plug and see if car will start or could that cause a problem. I'm thinking it would be ok because I looks like it should be a permanent live, ignition on or off. I will try to trace the red/green wire from pin 7 first but if its a bit awkward, I had thought of doing that as I've got a bit excited there may be a glimmer of hope that it is actually a wiring issue and the suspect wire has been located. As always, many thanks for any contributions to this topic.
  7. Thanks Peter. Yes, I've been thinking about those three wires I found, I did check for continuity by placing a pin an inch or so either side of the damage and got a continuity buzzer for each wire. I guess even though each wire isn't completely broken maybe it's enough to restrict the required current. I was reluctant to start cutting wires because the car parking for the houses is remote to my house and I can't get power to the cars location, so soldering is an issue. I think I will 'splice' a piece of wire to bypass the damage, without actually cutting through the existing cable, using the dreaded blue Scotch-lock connectors, at least they should be good enough to test. Yes, a decent wiring diagram would be a godsend, but I've so far exhausted the ways I've thought of searching for one. At least it looks like it is narrowed down to the ABS module, the GEM/BCM module or maybe a power supply/earth fault to one or the other as from what I've managed to test, the two busses look to be intact. I have previously tried to start car with the ABS module unplugged but didn't help. If I was to bridge the HS-CAN bus wires in the ABS plug would that make a difference or is it a no, no to do that sort of thing. Thanks again for all of your input and also to the other contributors, it has been much appreciated. If nothing else, I've learnt quite a lot about things I hadn't much of a clue about beforehand.
  8. Thank you Peter. Does it mean that there is a fault with the unit or a connection issue including a bad earth to unit or any of those? I have had the unit completely disconnected looking for the MS-CAN twisted pair and reconnected the plugs, so they are definitely properly seated and look clean. I've also checked all the fuses as the passenger fuse box is part of the same unit as the GEM/BCM. (I put it this way just to clarify to myself I'm not talking about the Brake system Control Module, (which I don't know it's location unless it's part of the ABS unit). So, to clarify in my mind, even though both the CAN busses seem to check out as intact, the information stream is failing at the GEM/BCM and that is why the ABS module doesn't seem to exist, even though it maybe is being communicated with but the information isn't making it's way back to the IPC on the MS-CAN due to a failure at the GEM/BCM to transfer the info from the HS-CAN to the MS-CAN? Shouldn't the ABS module at least show up on the HS-CAN test though, with a DTC code or two?
  9. Hi Peter thanks for your post, I was typing the above and putting on some graphics when it came through and didn't notice it until I submitted reply. The IPC self test came back clear so I don't know if there could still be a problem there. I had thought about resistance testing the HS-CAN pins on the ABS unit itself, if I can get to them but as there is no terminating resistor would I expect to see a specific reading or nothing when it's disconnected and no power to it?
  10. Hi, As a bit of an update; With the plug removed the corresponding MS-CAN bus pins on the GEM/BCM unit gave a reading of 124 ohms, so that seems to check out ok. I've had another session with the Forscan and took some screenshots as follows; DTC scan result in HS-CAN mode: DTC scan result after switching to MS-CAN mode: List of Modules: Self test screen: No ABS listed. PCM test just advised P0113 Temperature sensor due air cleaner removed: IPC test came back clear: The BCMii test would not complete and I keep getting the following message: The OBD II mode 6 test detected a malfunction but didn't give further info:
  11. Hi, Thank you for your replies, yes the 121.2 ohm measurement was with the plugs removed from the GEM/BCM. I will check if I can get access to recheck the measurement with the plug in situ. (The previous HS-CAN reading of 61.7 ohms I got from ABS plug was with it unplugged also). I also forgot to confirm that I tested pins 3 & 11 on the diagnostic socket before the ELM237 came and got a reading of 61 ohms. I re-ran the diagnostic scan and I'm pretty sure there were no IPC errors listed on computer screen until the Forscan prompted for the ELM237 unit to be switched from HS to MS mode and OK pressed to continue. I also think the BCMii didn't list fault codes until after switching to MS mode either but would have to check this to confirm. The program runs pretty quickly and I'm just getting to grips with its operation. I have had a look around Forscan and couldn't find the ABS module listed anywhere to carry out a specific test on it. I found a screen with numerous modules listed but ABS was absent. While I had good access to it, I checked all of the fuses in the passenger fuse box and they were ok. (I've just checked and F8 is a 5A fuse for Instrument Cluster). F41 is a 10A fuse in Engine fuse box for IC, I will check that too. I can't see any others listed.
  12. Hello again, I've now purchased and received the ELM237 unit and downloaded the Forscan software. After running the diagnostic on the car, I get the following: DTC's in PCM; PO1113P Intake air temperature sensor high input - (Probably due to removing air cleaner to access loom). UO129 (:00-2F) Lost communication with Brake System Control module DTC's in BCMii; UO121 (:00-2F) Lost communication with ABS module UO199 Lost communication with Door Control Module (There is a break in the wire to the drivers door somewhere that stops electric window etc. working, only present if door is open. Has been present for a long time and long before current issue). DTC's in IPC; UO422 (:68-2B) Invalid data received from Body Control Module UO415 (:68-2B) Invalid data received from ABS module UO416 (:68-2B) Invalid data received from Vehicle Dynamics module UO199 (:00-2B) Lost communication with Door Control Module I have removed the Aircon control panel and there are two plugs with a plethora of wires going to them, including a twisted pair which I think is the MS-CAN bus. These are Violet/Orange & Grey/Orange. The reading I got with a DMM between these two wires was 66 ohms, so I guess ok. I then unclipped the Passenger fuse box/GEM and removed the plugs and had a look at the wires on each, I came across another Violet/Orange & Grey/Orange twisted pair on one of the plugs, (the grey was a darker shade and the Violet was a lighter shade than the pair at the Aircon unit so I may not have the correct wires at one or the other or both but I couldn't find another twisted pair that matched the MS-CAN bus colours). The DMM reading I got for these was 121.2 ohms, (does this indicate a problem). The wires from this socket go up into the foot well and then out through the bulkhead to the engine bay. It is a big, thick loom with a lot of wires, it separates after coming out of the bulkhead with the larger part running along the passenger inner wing towards the fuse box and the smaller branch running across the rear of the bulkhead towards the drivers side. I have stripped some of the insulation from the larger branch but haven't located the twisted pair in question, there are a lot of wires, so they may be buried and I haven't managed to expose them yet or they are in the smaller branch which is very difficult to access. I have been looking for a suitable wiring diagram that shows the routing of the MS-CAN bus twisted pair but have had no joy at all. If any of the above information has shed some more light on the situation, as always I would be very grateful for any advice. Many thanks, Keith
  13. Thank you Peter. The GEM is part of the passenger fuse box, so I will look for the MS CAN bus twisted pair there and check resistance and then try to follow it up to the A/C unit and look for a junction with the twisted pair of the H/S CAN bus and check the connection. I'm not sure about the anti-theft system, I don't know if it's a PATS system with the LED, it may have been updated when the ABS was incorporated into the immobiliser circuit. I'll reconnect the battery and look for a red light, it's not between the instrument dials like previous models but might be one on top of dashboard, (memory is letting me down there!). I'm about to order a Forscan modified ELM327 that is UK stock item and is advised to contain a genuine 25K80 chip with 500k connection and use genuine Silicon Labs USB chips. £15.90 inc. del. ( ). I think that is probably as good as any other, unless you would recommend otherwise. Where would be the best place to obtain/download the relevant software? Thank you and regards, Keith
  14. Hi Peter, Thanks for your reply, yes using the Delphi diagnostic the five codes listed are 'picked' up. When selecting 'Erase DTCs' the U0121 Lost communication with ABS module and U0129 Lost communication with Brake System Control module change from red to green and then are removed from the DTC summary on main screen. U0415 Invalid data received from ABS module, U0416 Invalid data received from Vehicle Dynamics module & U0422 Invalid data received from Body Control Module when selected for 'Erase' stay red and then show with a red line through them instead of turning green and remain on the main summary screen. If the diagnostics is run again all five DTCs show up as before. I will get on with the points you suggest and report back with my findings. You mentioned the junction point for the MS CAN bus on the Mondeo shows the A/C unit, would that mean the compressor in the engine bay or the A/C controls in dashboard console? The MS CAN bus twisted pair are showing as violet & orange/ grey & orange in the Haynes manual and they aren't present at the ABS plug, (There are four more twisted pairs in addition to the HS CAN bus, which I am guessing go to the relevant wheel sensor). So maybe the message isn't getting to the ABS module from the Body Control Module, (as it should transfer from the MS CAN to the HS CAN at the junction point at the A/C unit, if I'm understanding you correctly? Haynes don't seem to mention a Body Control Module but do list a GEM, Generic Control Module which is integral to the passenger compartment fuse box and states that one of the things it's responsible for is the management of the Anti-theft system. Is the GEM the BCM? One other point; I've been assuming all along my key is working properly because if there was a fault with it causing the 'Immobiliser Active' message, I would be getting different DTCs to the ones I have. Thanks again