Wookie Monster

Budding Enthusiast
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About Wookie Monster

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    Settling In Well

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  • Ford Model
    Focus Mk2
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
    West Midlands

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  1. There will be a thermostatic switch in the system which cuts it out when the evaporator temperature is just above freezing, to prevent it icing up. In normal operation this means the compressor will clutch on and off periodically. You also have a couple of pressure switches to inhibit the compressor if the pressure is too high or low. Get the gas level checked as a first test.
  2. It's one reason why it's a 5-speed gearbox too- having a sixth gear wouldn't be any use as there wouldn't be the torque to push the higher gear. Keep the revs up and it's got enough poke. You'll probably find you end up changing up at 3-4000 coming off dual carriageway roundabouts, and this is fine.
  3. The 1.4 and 1.6 are quite revvy engines, and not much happens at low rpm. The 1.4 is underpowered (1.6 is fine but not quick) but you do need to work the gears more compared to a larger or more torquey engine. Just drive it and figure out where the shift points need to be.
  4. I don't have the lid/box on mine- just a plain dash top. The space where the lid would be is flat and slightly recessed, but it doesn't open. Looks like I should be able to drill down from the top and avoid the air vent ducts. Next task is to find a switched live for the power socket- would be better than a permanent supply for a sat nav. If all else fails I'll use a relay to trigger it from the radio's key-switched input.
  5. I've been looking into fitting an extra 12v socket in the upper dash of my mk2.5 for a sat nav- so as to avoid having trailing wires down to the standard one. Spotted a guide about fitting one to the dash top storage bin, but being a style trim level mine doesn't have that. Drilling the dash itself should of course give the same result, but is there a way of getting a hole saw in there?
  6. Wookie Monster


    Be aware that removing or disabling EGR, DPF or any other emissions equipment (not just those with three-letter acronyms) is now an MOT failure. If it's blocked, clean is while it's off the car. It's probable that the car will detect the wrong airflow from the MAF- if the EGR is blanked off (or just blocked with soot) the air flow through the intake will be too high and fault codes will be stored. Usually the DPF relies on the EGR to function properly as well, and it's an expensive part to replace when it all goes wrong.
  7. Therein lies the problem. Apart from when something's obviously wrong (such as my tank of crap from Morrisons) the only way to know for certain is to run two identical engines under the exact same conditions on a dyno and measure the output with two different fuel types. And afterwards to tear down the engine and compare the internal wear. So we'll never have a scientific answer.
  8. That's more down to the headlamp itself than the bulb. It depends on the reflector geometry whether you end up with a narrow, long-range beam or a wider, shorter one. If the standard high beams aren't enough, you need to add a dedicated long-range spotlamp. If you mean on dipped beam, there's very little you can do. The dipped beam pattern is regulated and well-defined, with a specified downward angle, so you can't extend their range. All brighter bulbs will do is make this same area brighter, which worsens your vision outside this area.
  9. I've had a yellow headlamp on the bike for a few years and it gives a much better light for night driving, particularly in the rain. Recently put some tinted H7 and H1 bulbs in my Focus and they work well, though not quite as yellow as the one on the bike. The total output is slightly reduced due to filtering, but the blue part that's filtered out is what causes the glare, and you're left with a better light to actually see by.
  10. My 1.6 Zetec normally runs on whatever I put in it at the time (as long as it's petrol, obviously.) Normally supermarket or branded doesn't seem to make any difference, though the tank of Morissons fuel I put in a while ago was terrible- almost felt like a misfire whenever you put your foot down. Putting something else in made an immediate difference. Is there any advantage to using any of the 'super' higher-octane fuels? Last time I filled up with Tesco Momentum99 as I had a voucher for a few pence/liter off and it was a reasonable price, but I've mostly been bumbling around town so can't do any back to back comparisons on economy. V-power is a lot more expensive though so I can't see how filling up with it could be justified.
  11. I never spotted that either! Explains why sometimes it comes on automatically and sometimes doesn't though. I guess it makes sense as you want dry air to demist the windscreen.
  12. Check the thickness of the disc in several places and compare to the specs. If it's uneven, below the minimum or there's a significant wear step, you should replace them. If not, they may still have plenty of usable life in them. How long the brake parts last depends on how the car's been driven.
  13. Cam belt changes are a big job and so a lot of the cost is labour. If you're keeping the car it's worth doing, but for a part-ex then don't bother.
  14. Exactly. DRLs should be brighter than parking lights so they are visible during the day. But not so bright that they compete with the main beam headlights. Ones based on conventional bulbs tend to use dual-filament 21W/5W bulbs the same as used on brake lights- using the dim filament for the parking light and the bright filament as DRL. This is plenty bright enough without being obnoxious. To get European type approval, the LED units will be somewhere close in terms of brightness as the regulations are well-defined.
  15. LED units are supposed to last a great deal longer than conventional bulbs, so sealed units are fairly common as they're not expected to need replacing. Replacing the LEDs with brighter ones will just annoy other road users and also invalidates the e-mark approval.