Phil21185

Aww I return yonks later and this thread has truly died. Just before it is archived forever, I shall put everyone who was desperate to know the answer (so, noone, really.) out of their misery. I was a rubber exhaust mount. RIP Car Conundrums...

Yes it fits, but there is some cutting required of some of the attachment points at the bottom of the fascia. There's a picture on my ancient build thread, or someone has reused it more recently.

Hopped on for my ritual bi-annual visit (real life is such a pain!) and I'm really chuffed to know that some of the crap I wrote about 3 years ago is actually helpful to someone! Nice job!

Nope, nope and nope. 3) I'm not made of metal

They should be, I never thought of accessing that way.

You can put LEDs in the front fogs without problems but get some decent quality ones which have heat dissipation. In the clusters you might get away with LED sidelights but for the dipped and main beams, retrofitted LEDs are basically illegal. The whitest you can go which are road legal will be something like Philips WhiteVision bulbs. I have these in my car and they look ok, but they don't match my DRLs and LED fogs. Another user in Ireland used to to have Osram HyperBlues in his which matched his DRLs (same as mine) a lot better, but I'm not sure if you'd get away with them over here.

Take it back to the seller for a refund and get a different car. Doesn't matter what their warranty says, the car is not fit for purpose. You're opening yourself up to huge problems down the line and in my opinion you're best off getting out of it, now! Having said that, I think there's some legislation saying you have to give them 3 chances to fix it before you can refuse the car?! Am I remembering that correctly or have I just invented that? If you're sticking with a Ford though, definitely get an ELM cable. Not only save you loads in the long run for any future code readings, but also very helpful in any mods or upgrades you might like to do!

Sounds like the Bluetooth module has gone kaput. It shouldn't be that difficult to replace. I believe the Bluetooth system is part of the Sync module. This is a case of taking off the front fascia (2 torx (star shaped) screws and a few plugs) then taking out the CD player (again, two screws and a couple of plugs). The SYNC module is right behind, a smallish black box. More screws and plugs and it's a straight swap. Might have to undo the AC controls too, but again, that's just a couple of screws and panels out. You can probably find a Sync module on eBay fairly cheaply now. A dismantling guide with pictures is somewhere on my build thread, where I talk about upgrading to sync 2/3. It's not as scary as it sounds but I don't think it's something you can get sorted in time unless you visit a local scrappie today. You should be able to put your music on a usb stick and plug that into the car as a workaround? EDIT: This is the SORT of item you are looking for, but it'd be a good idea to check the part numbers against the one in your car for compatibility, and that's IF I'm correct about the Sync module housing the Bluetooth. @JW1982 will probably know, and may have other suggestions for a fix to try before replacement? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F193207742247

Ah yes sorry I remember you saying now - it was a while ago! Yes it does look like different plugs/sensors. The whole parking system is a single entity, controlled by that single module, so if it detects a fault in any part of it, the whole module will fail. The only part you can change without reprogramming anything are the dash buttons. They will just not do anything until the BCM is programmed. After programming, if you are still missing parts, you will get a 'Parking Aid Malfunction' warning on startup and if you put the car in reverse, or press the sensor or auto-park buttons you will get a chime and flashing light on the buttons. It looks like you have a 'later' BCM, which will only accept the 'later' parking module, meaning you will definitely have to add the 6 rear sensors to get the system to work. Are they the only faults you are getting when scanning with Forscan? Two missing rear sensors? Have you also checked your rear abs sensors? If you have the wrong type, the system WILL work, but the car just won't steer when you try to auto-park. Not sure if same for the Kuga, but if you take the plug off one, it SHOULD be a lighter, beige or grey colour. Having said that, the ones I bought to replace my non park ones were still black... After this, you have to change the ABS sensor type in Forscan (BCM) or you will get incompatible part errors. This is in Bannkos guide but I missed it and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work!!

I can't see on mobile if yours is preface or not but I think you've fitted a MK3.5 module? I have a prefacelft (2014) which just has the 4. Some folk say they've seen facelift models with both 6 and 4, but I've only seen 6, which does bay parking as well. Is there not an option in the BCM for front and rear SAPP? If not, you've got two choices now: Either source a 4-rear-sensor module and swap it, reprogramming the BCM. Change the harness to a 6 sensor and fit the two missing sensors to get the whole shebang. I actually have a 6 sensor rear harness for sale which I bought brand new, intending to upgrade to the 3.5 module, but in the end I couldn't be bothered to alter the existing bumper setup. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113930126932

Even if it isn't, the system is probably worth about £250 more than what you've been offered it at...

Yeah I'm staying on the build I'm on now... Too cold to be sat in the car for an hour per install!

Let's just go ahead and give you a bit of rep for your tutorial! Edit, there we go 🙂

No worries, I think you're the only watcher anyway lol! I don't know what the significance of the prefix is, unless BM5T is for a presync system or something. Anyway mines a 2014 which had Sync 1.1 originally. I can't really see that there'd be any problems.

It can be done by editing the As-Built data of the APIM. You'll need an ELM cable and a copy of Forscan, extended licence (free, but need to register). Not sure which byte needs changing though off the top of my head.