Phil21185

True Ford Enthusiast
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Phil21185 last won the day on December 1 2018

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About Phil21185

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    Ford Enthusiast

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  • First Name
    Phil
  • Ford Model
    Mk3 Focus 1.6 TDCI Titanium Navigator
  • Ford Year
    2014
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Lincolnshire

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  1. sorry for the necro, not on here much atm. hope you got sorted in the end. If not, by 'panel' I meant the panel that runs on the passenger side of the console, from just in front of the passenger seat, into the passenger footwell. good luck!
  2. Finding it is the hardest part. It's on the passenger side of the console - you have to take the panel off, then the plug itself is taped up to the loom, somewhere near the gearstick. Get a multimeter and test which wires carry 12v (and which is pos and neg - important for LEDs!) Then scotchlock onto those wires for your feed to your footwell lights!
  3. If you wish to dip a toe across the thin blue line then @kpg used to have osram hyperblues on his that looked like they matched his DRLs perfectly. They're not technically road legal though. Theres even more legal issues putting led bulbs in the headlight cluster so I really wouldn't do that. Led fogs are ok though, I have some and they match my DRLs nicely, although beware that they don't throw out light as well as halogens. I find that I can't even tell the difference if my front fogs are on or not, but then I bought cheap leds for them so YMMV. Finally I have Philips whitevision bulbs in my car and while they are definitely better than stock bulbs there is still a noticeable difference between these and the DRLs. Whitest road legal bulbs you can buy though. Tldr: your call. Philips whitevision - better than stock, but not quite led white. Osram Hyperblues - not road legal but match DRLs better. Edit, if you have a look at my build thread, there is a post or two about my lights in there somewhere and you'll see what I mean. If you find Kpg's build thread (search for it as I've written it) then there's a post with the osrams on his old car so you can see. We both have prefacelift mk3's but it should all be the same.
  4. Been a while - life and everything... Just updating where I left off really for those who are interested, or bored lol! I did get my US fascia fitted in the end but I didn't take any pictures of the process sadly. It was easy enough though - I found the pinouts for the hazard/lock button and pushed the appropriate pins onto it. Also, and much more recently, I fitted some heated pads into my seats. These were aftermarket and about £30, but work lovely and look pretty oem, apart from not being selectable in sync3. Pictures of the finished goods coming soon, and as much of a write up as I can remember for the heated seats lol (no pics sadly - what has happened to me??!) Much love.
  5. Most hardwire kits have battery monitoring built in so when it senses a low voltage it cuts off. This was the case for my 3rd party kit but in the end I just found an ignition live fuse. It means I don't get parked car monitoring, but at least I know I'll be able to start it up when I come back to it! edit: didn't read your post properly - you're already in an ignition live fuse?
  6. Well howdy! It's been a while and I can only apologise! No real reason other than life... Y'know! Hoping everyone is doing well and that 2019 has gotten off to a great start for you all! Pleasantries out of the way, back to modding!!! A mod Ive been meaning to do for ages is heated seats - @madmole has a tut up here for a generic retrofit which is awesome, but it looks like the kit I bought has different wiring than his. With that in mind, before I start, coupla questions. I need to tap into: Battery pos Battery neg (easy grounding points all over the car so not a problem) Ignition live and Nighttime lighting And I need to find all these in and around the centre console and seats as the provided harness ain't long enough to get to the footwell fusebox. Any ideas chaps and chappettes?
  7. If you have abs, you have hill assist, not sure about auto dip - that's a new one to me. As for the interior reds, you need to enable ambient lighting in the dash panel options. Should be an option there in the lighting menu on the dash.
  8. Some time ago I had a 1.9 diesel Laguna. Ran as rough as a badgers botty so bought some redex for it. Misread the instructions and put a whole bottle into (much less than) half a tank, instead of the other way around. I then proceeded to f@rt my way off the forecourt in impressive clouds of black smoke! Ran ok after that though, til the cambelt went 3k later...
  9. Started a thread about this a while ago which I now can't find and to be honest was a bit convoluted. I've been slowly working through the various values of the as-built data of my sync 3 APIM and comparing it to the text-configuration shown in the 'hidden' APIM diagnostic menu on the dash. I've put my findings in a google sheet: Sync 3 APIM data As you can see, I've only got so far - the coloured rows represent settings controlled by the same value. Disclaimers and acknowledgements are in that document. I'll slowly add to it as I get more time to plumb.
  10. Theres a couple of bits in the apim config (which I've returned to slowly fathoming...) which affect sound settings. the very first bit of the first block in 7D0-01-01 is whether the sony sound processor is present. This should probably be 0 (it affects whether Sirius is available, AAM and RSEM as well but I don't think you'll have these). If it is enabled (8 or higher), that can screw around with the sound settings - bass, mid and treb sound stop responding properly. Could be a cause. If the second bit of the second block in 01-01, ie xxxx x*xx xxxx is set to a particular value, it is possible to have different bass/mid/treb settings for different sound sources. not sure if this would affect BT/VC though and I think fade and balance are still universal in this case anyway. [[[[EDIT: Yes, I know that technically they are not bits as a bit is 1/8th of a byte, or one digit from a binary byte of 8 digits. I suppose as each hex value can be 0-F (0-16) and an 8-bit-binary-byte can hold a value of up to 255, each hex value is 1/16th of a byte, technically a "nibble". We'll just stick with "bit" for now! Bit of computer 101 for the unfamiliar, but explains the terms 8-bit, 16-bit etc when referring to, eg. video games consoles. The largest number that could be held in one byte in the memory of the Sega Master System was 255. The Mega Drive was 16-bit, therefore 16 1's and 0's per byte (technically a two-byte "word" - a byte always has 8 bits, anything larger is just an "integer"), maximum value was 65535. 64-bit OS's can handle values of up to 9,223,372,036,854,775,807. So don't buy a hard drive bigger than 8.19 Petabytes lol!
  11. Ah didn't know sync 1 could have the colour screen! Yeah the parts are interchangeable easily enough, but it's not just a case of upgrading the software... Edit: in that case, it must be possible to go straight to sync 2/3 from sync 1 with the same wiring changes as from sync 1.1, as the APIM screen and fascias all change anyway. I guess it depends on what kind of screen is in the dash cluster....
  12. isn't what the OP has Sync 1 - basically the system after BT/VC? Sync 1.1 has the 4" (or 5", I forget!) lcd screen rather than the dot matrix screen shown above. I didn't mean Sync 2, and after upgrading from sync 1.1 to sync2, then onto sync 3 I honestly do know the difference, even if I can't explain it well! Open to being corrected if wrong, but: SYNC 1: SYNC 1.1: SYNC 2: SYNC 3
  13. No. Sync 1.1 is a completely different system with almost entirely different hardware. Sync 1.1 has the full colour screen as well as a different APIM and Bluetooth module.
  14. That's a point. There's a grey and a black usb connector in the back of the hub. One is for a second usb in the dash in the facelift models. Try plugging your cable in the other socket as Luke suggests. You may have to trim the plug for it to fit.
  15. Well if the USB doesn't work then there's a problem with the cable as (I believe) the wires from the media hub are for the sd card slot and jack socket only? Could be wrong. Coincidence that none of the hub is working...