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Everything posted by Phil21185

  1. Nope, nope and nope. 3) I'm not made of metal
  2. They should be, I never thought of accessing that way.
  3. You can put LEDs in the front fogs without problems but get some decent quality ones which have heat dissipation. In the clusters you might get away with LED sidelights but for the dipped and main beams, retrofitted LEDs are basically illegal. The whitest you can go which are road legal will be something like Philips WhiteVision bulbs. I have these in my car and they look ok, but they don't match my DRLs and LED fogs. Another user in Ireland used to to have Osram HyperBlues in his which matched his DRLs (same as mine) a lot better, but I'm not sure if you'd get away with them over here.
  4. Take it back to the seller for a refund and get a different car. Doesn't matter what their warranty says, the car is not fit for purpose. You're opening yourself up to huge problems down the line and in my opinion you're best off getting out of it, now! Having said that, I think there's some legislation saying you have to give them 3 chances to fix it before you can refuse the car?! Am I remembering that correctly or have I just invented that? If you're sticking with a Ford though, definitely get an ELM cable. Not only save you loads in the long run for any future code readings, but also very helpful in any mods or upgrades you might like to do!
  5. Sounds like the Bluetooth module has gone kaput. It shouldn't be that difficult to replace. I believe the Bluetooth system is part of the Sync module. This is a case of taking off the front fascia (2 torx (star shaped) screws and a few plugs) then taking out the CD player (again, two screws and a couple of plugs). The SYNC module is right behind, a smallish black box. More screws and plugs and it's a straight swap. Might have to undo the AC controls too, but again, that's just a couple of screws and panels out. You can probably find a Sync module on eBay fairly cheaply now. A dismantling guide with pictures is somewhere on my build thread, where I talk about upgrading to sync 2/3. It's not as scary as it sounds but I don't think it's something you can get sorted in time unless you visit a local scrappie today. You should be able to put your music on a usb stick and plug that into the car as a workaround? EDIT: This is the SORT of item you are looking for, but it'd be a good idea to check the part numbers against the one in your car for compatibility, and that's IF I'm correct about the Sync module housing the Bluetooth. @JW1982 will probably know, and may have other suggestions for a fix to try before replacement?
  6. Ah yes sorry I remember you saying now - it was a while ago! Yes it does look like different plugs/sensors. The whole parking system is a single entity, controlled by that single module, so if it detects a fault in any part of it, the whole module will fail. The only part you can change without reprogramming anything are the dash buttons. They will just not do anything until the BCM is programmed. After programming, if you are still missing parts, you will get a 'Parking Aid Malfunction' warning on startup and if you put the car in reverse, or press the sensor or auto-park buttons you will get a chime and flashing light on the buttons. It looks like you have a 'later' BCM, which will only accept the 'later' parking module, meaning you will definitely have to add the 6 rear sensors to get the system to work. Are they the only faults you are getting when scanning with Forscan? Two missing rear sensors? Have you also checked your rear abs sensors? If you have the wrong type, the system WILL work, but the car just won't steer when you try to auto-park. Not sure if same for the Kuga, but if you take the plug off one, it SHOULD be a lighter, beige or grey colour. Having said that, the ones I bought to replace my non park ones were still black... After this, you have to change the ABS sensor type in Forscan (BCM) or you will get incompatible part errors. This is in Bannkos guide but I missed it and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work!!
  7. I can't see on mobile if yours is preface or not but I think you've fitted a MK3.5 module? I have a prefacelft (2014) which just has the 4. Some folk say they've seen facelift models with both 6 and 4, but I've only seen 6, which does bay parking as well. Is there not an option in the BCM for front and rear SAPP? If not, you've got two choices now: Either source a 4-rear-sensor module and swap it, reprogramming the BCM. Change the harness to a 6 sensor and fit the two missing sensors to get the whole shebang. I actually have a 6 sensor rear harness for sale which I bought brand new, intending to upgrade to the 3.5 module, but in the end I couldn't be bothered to alter the existing bumper setup.
  8. Even if it isn't, the system is probably worth about £250 more than what you've been offered it at...
  9. Yeah I'm staying on the build I'm on now... Too cold to be sat in the car for an hour per install!
  10. Let's just go ahead and give you a bit of rep for your tutorial! Edit, there we go 🙂
  11. No worries, I think you're the only watcher anyway lol! I don't know what the significance of the prefix is, unless BM5T is for a presync system or something. Anyway mines a 2014 which had Sync 1.1 originally. I can't really see that there'd be any problems.
  12. It can be done by editing the As-Built data of the APIM. You'll need an ELM cable and a copy of Forscan, extended licence (free, but need to register). Not sure which byte needs changing though off the top of my head.
  13. I have one for sale on eBay, MK3 rear only. It is a DV4T, but it's the one I removed to do this mod (see earlier in the guide!!) Number 113930119677. I'd take £15 delivered for FOC members!
  14. Keyless entry fobs have to be programmed to the immobiliser system to start the car. I believe you can program the remote fob easily yourself, though I don't know the procedure. For programming the key to the car, you will need an auto locksmith or a dealer. I'm not too comfortable with offering explicit info on other methods of effectively bypassing immobilisers publicly, though I think there is software that has the capability.
  15. The hazard and lock button is a different wiring loom I think. It sounds odd that the whole system has gone down and would suggest a fuse or main supply issue Are you able to insert a cd into the slot at all and have the radio accept it?
  16. Technically, the icon for the front heater might be a windscreen, but it's upside down too... The whole system is just screwy 🙂
  17. Yeah, I can see the logic behind your thinking but that is 'correct'. If it makes you feel better you could swap the button caps over. Might make things fun for the next owner too!
  18. Don't do it. The French don't know how electricity is supposed to work in cars...:)
  19. There is a setting on the dash for ambient light. If none of your footwell, door cubby, door handle or cup holder lights are working then this setting is likely unchecked. It may also be down to a fuse, but I'm not sure which one. I take it that all the ambient lights do not work when a door is opened?
  20. There have been issies with MK2 clusters where the solder joints on the main connector become dry and crack, thus breaking the circuit. This is usually signified by an immobiliser fault but other electric weirdness can be a symptom. I would expect a lot more error codes to pop up, but then it's possible that some of the errors do not cause codes to be stored. If you know how to use a soldering iron, it is not a difficult job to do by all accounts (not having had a MK2 myself), there are guides and videos on how to dismantle the dash, then it's just a case of re-flowing any bad connections so the contact is good again. As both of these fixes cost you nothing, they're worth trying. I would clear codes first, then reset the IPC, then whip it out and have a look, in the absence of other suggestions. @Tdci-Peter Is very knowledgeable about this, hopefully he won't mind me tagging him for his two penneth.
  21. Off topic, but I always wanted a GTO after Gran Turismo 1 came out on the PSX.... Never got one... 😞
  22. Ah yeah sorry, I was stuck in "used to messing about with this sort of stuff" mode! Sorry OP! If you still have trouble, or the garage won't or can't fix it, post back and folk here will try and sort you out!
  23. The extended licence is free, you just need to register on the forums for it.
  24. GUIDE:: Fitting Front Sensors and Autopark (with conditions) - MK3 This is a supplemental guide to @Bannko's excellent work which can be found here: Have a read through the instructions there first. The main difference between the two guides is this guide is for adding the wiring from the car to the front bumper for the front sensors. This method does not require sourcing of appropriate pins as we will be taking them from the car itself. Throughout I will refer to Driver/Passenger side - this is for a RHD vehicle. We will also be cutting your car's wiring. If you are uncomfortable with this, do not proceed. If you follow the instructions carefully there will be no problems, but I accept no responsibility for any issues which may arise, nor does FordOwnersClub or any of its members or users. Crap you will need:: Already present: Mk3 Focus (prefacelift) Rear sensors 3 plugs in the boot (as described in Bannko's guide) Correct wiring for the dash buttons (likely there if 3 plugs are present, more on this later) You can follow instructions below to check for these elements. Parts (Finis codes and part numbers in Bannko's thread): Active Park Assist Module - for Mk3 (not Mk3.5) Front bumper loom (Mk3 or Mk3.5) - Most looms for sensors I've seen come with foglight plugs. If you do not have front fogs, they can be retrofitted, or left unplugged. Sensors - There are 3 different types, you need two of each. Use the catcar link in Bannko's thread to get correct part numbers (change the car to CB8 2011-2015 for Mk3) Brackets - for the sensors. 3 different types - The flat ones as found on the rear, 2 of these. The outer brackets are specially shaped and are left and right handed. 1 each of these. Front Lower Grille - The central sensors attach to the lower grille, either side of the numberplate. This can be swapped over without having to change the entire front bumper. Rear ABS Sensors - FACET 21.0186 are one manufacturer of the correct type - around £11 new (instead of £120 each directly from Ford...) Tools T25 torx driver, right angled for ease Electrical screwdriver (or similar small prybar for removing plastic bolts holding the front bumper on) Soldering Iron Wire cutters Dremel style tool appropriate for cutting accurate holes in the front bumper Sim removal tool, needle or similar - For removing wires from plugs - familiar to you if you have upgraded Sync 1 to Sync 2/3! Multimeter may be useful Materials Stranded Wire (approx 30m) Electrical tape Kitchen Roll Solder (+flux, etc) Heatshrink Tubing Silicone sealant Skills Soldering (strongly recommend against scotchlocking here) BEFORE BUYING ANY PARTS::: Check for 3 parking module plugs: Undo the two T25 torx bolts on the Driver's side parcel shelf support in the boot. Peel back the carpet over the wheel arch (tricky but can be done) Check you have 3 plugs there - may already be plugged into the Rear Park Assist Module If not, this retrofit is still possible, but you will need to add the wiring from the boot to the front of the car for the front sensors and the dash buttons. There is info on this in Bannko's thread as another user has done this, but this guide does not cover it. Check for dash button wiring: If you have 3 plugs, you should also have the appropriate wiring in the dash for the buttons Remove the passenger side centre console panel (it pulls away from the front first) and check you have these wires: Credit to @Tommo17 for this picture. NOTE: These wires will be bound with the main loom on your car and may not be these colours. If you have wires going to the same pins in the plug as shown here (4 in total), then you have wiring to the dash button. If not, you will have to add them. This is discussed a few pages into Bannko's thread. Check for sensor wiring at the front of the car: If you have 3 plugs, you should also have wiring for the front sensors already in the passenger footwell, but let's check. Remove the glovebox: 2x T25 torx bolts at the top when you open it. 1 at the side nearest the door, behind the small panel with the passenger airbag sticker on it 2 underneath in the passenger footwell. Remove the small carpet and search with a torch. They are hard to see. Pull the glovebox forward and unplug the lihgt at the right hand side. Behind the glovebox, you should have this plug: I have obviously undone it here, but it is left of the fuse panel. Check you have these 8 wires on 'plug' side (not the 'socket' side, fixed to the car with the grey lever attached): I believe I had flipped the plug over to better see these wires. They are pins 25-32. The wiring colurs should match yours but there may be differences - I had a red/white wire instead of what the schematic said I should have - just be aware of this. You should notice that you do not have the corresponding wires on the 'socket' side of that connection. Check the wiring at the bumper: Take the front bumper off (videos on Youtube explain better than I can here). If you have front foglights, you will need to disconnect the loom between the engine bay and the bumper. It looks like this: If you do not have this plug, it is still possible to retrofit, but you will need to find a plug from a scrap car. If you have this plug and it has more wiring than shown above (8 more wires to be exact) then this is your lucky day! You can follow Bannko's guide in its entirety as the whole system will be plug and play for you. You smug git. If your plug looks like mine above, then continue reading. As mentioned above, this guide is mainly for adding wiring for the front sensors to the engine bay harness. This will be described in detail, whereas for general fitting of parts, refer back to Bannko's guide. If you have got this far, and everything on your car matches what I have described above, then you need to make a loom of 8 wires to go from the passenger footwell to the bumper plug. This is easier than it sounds, though parts of it are a little tricky. First, you need 8 lengths of stranded wire approximately 3m in length. Disconnect the battery (we don't want an airbag going off) and unplug the connector in the passenger footwell: Unclip the grey cover over the end of the plug: This will reveal the pins. Relocate the 8 wires from above, Pins 25-32. If you look carefully you should see a number 1 at one end of a row of pins on the plug. You can use this to count to the correct pins: Using a needle or similar, lift the clip which retains each of these 8 wires and remove the pins one by one. I haven't got a picture for this, but you will see what needs to be done. Cut these 8 wires off. We want a careful balance here: as much wire attached to the pin as possible, but also a reasonable amount left attached to the car so we can comfortably strip and resolder to them later. I recommend around 5-6 inches of wire attached to the pins, if possible. Put the grey plastic clip back on the end of the plug and reattach the plug with the retaining lever. Now use these 8 pins to make your loom. I took a small piece of wire from each of the pins to attach to the OTHER end of my loom - for easier identification later (we will be matching wire colours when re-attaching to the car). This is not necessary, but will make life a LOT easier! Top Tip: When you are ready to tape all your wires together, wrap them first in strips of kitchen roll or similar. Wrap round the wires at a rough 45 degree angle, so that the strips overlap each other slightly. Then do the same over the top with electrical tape. By doing this, it enables the wires inside to slide past each other so you can form curves in your loom. The very ends of your tape binding should be on the wires directly though to prevent water ingress. You should end up with something like this: Now we have to re-attach it to the car. With a cold (or slightly warm if you like!) engine, remove the engine cover under the bonnet. On the firewall there will be a large rubber grommet shaped a bit like a bell, with a thick loom of wires coming out of it: Not a very clear picture, sorry about that! The inside of the grommet is above and to the right of the passenger footwell fusebox, behind the soundproofing material. You will see wires coming out of it. Now you have a choice: Either undo the electrical tape on the grommet (inside and out) and attempt to pass your wires through as well. This was what I did but it was extremely difficult as there is not much space left in the grommet. Or, pierce a hole in the grommet to pass your wires through and use silicone sealant afterwards to seal it all up. This would definitely be easier, but be sure you do a good job of sealing the hole afterwards. It is possible to remove the grommet slightly to aid the work, whichever method you choose: Be sure to pass the cut wire end through the grommet, from outside to inside!! We want the pins at the bumper! Once through the grommet, carefully pull enough of your loom through to the inside of the car to reconnect to those wires we cut earlier, leaving enough on the outside to snake through the engine bay and down to the bumper. Now strip and solder the wires we cut in the footwell back onto our loom. By colour coding the ends of the wire as I recommended, this should be straightforward colour matching. Back under the bonnet, route your loom from the grommet, round the back of the battery box and down in between the battery and the fusebox. You should have the bumper off at this point and can join up with the bumper loom around this point. Now you need to add the pins to this bumper connector: There are clips on the front and back of this plug similar to the one in the footwell earlier. You need to remove both. The rear clip has plastic pins to prevent water ingress to unused pin slots. We will need to snap these pins off where we want to add wires. You can do this by bending them back and forth with your thumb. Be careful not to remove the wrong ones. Underneath this is a light blue rubber seal. We will need to pass our pins through this as well. They will fit! Now, the schematic I had did not match the pin numbers for the two sides of the connection, so I simply matched the colours when passing the pins through the clip and seal. However, to seat them in the plug properly, it must be disconnected. It started chucking it down at this point so I had to speed the job without taking photos. After passing the pins into the plug, they will click past a retaining clip, like the ones we lifted to remove pins from the footwell plug. But these retainers only stop the pins being pulled back out of the plug, not secure them in place and you will find that they will flop around all over! Once all the wires are though, line up the pins in the clip that was removed from the front and carefully replace the clip and wires together. Do the same for the seal and rear clip and connect it up the the sensor loom! Congrats, the hard work is done! For fitting and programming of all the parts, refer back to Bannko's guide!