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Freddy42

Budding Enthusiast
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Everything posted by Freddy42

  1. Had similar on the ST. Removing and cleaning the negative chassis connections cured it. Worth a try.
  2. A fascinating thread; hope the OP benefited.
  3. I've had this 'problem' long-term since the rear n/s door refused to lock a couple of years ago. Removed the door card and applied copious amounts of WD40 to free it. Since then, the indicators occasionally flash when locking, and like yours, always when unlocking. Forscan points to the rear n/s door module. I've not bothered to pursue it further although the module is easy to replace.
  4. Bluefin £300 (more expensive now) More mid-range power and torque with smoother delivery Well-chuffed. It was originally on same engine as yours; now powers the ST. No Plus point for Bluefin is the handset which stores the map so you can remove and re-instate as many times as you like.
  5. My wife actually managed to see a doctor last week, amazingly. When she returned home, I asked her what the outcome was. The doctor says I must have s*x ten times a week. Book me in for two.
  6. although by then they will probably be self driving hover cars (58 years time) You're an optimist, John, by the way things are going, it's more likely to be a horse and cart!
  7. Hi All, Just passed the Big-Eight-0 and still enjoy driving the Focus ST like an ST should be driven - you won't be held up behind me! Keep smiling Freddy
  8. For what it costs (about £40), it's every 2 years for me. I'm always prepared to spend on brakes and tyres.
  9. My stop start won’t work Leave it not working; stop/start is the worst thing ever invented.
  10. I had similar on the Focus. It was cured by cleaning the main battery earth and alt/starter earth connections.
  11. I have this meter and the answer is yes, but only if the drain is less than 200mA, over that it will see off the internal fuse. The other terminal is marked 10A/60 sec max. Incidentally, should the test meter be connected in the pos or neg line or doesn't it matter? What is an acceptable ie normal drain; my clamp meter shows 0.2A.
  12. Noise ratings are measured external to the car so the reduction in db level may not be as great as you might anticipate.
  13. I'm intrigued, Ian: why would that make any difference? I had similar symptoms to Idris with an apparent discharge of 0.2A. Recently, the car stood for 10 days without use and the standing voltage was 12.2, as opposed to 12.3 when in regular use, and fired up instantly.
  14. I don't think Ford dealers bother these days. On the occasions I have traded in, they ask if the vehicle has a FSH. On being told that it has and I do the routine services myself, that was accepted and didn't affect the trade-in price.
  15. Absolutely; improves the handling tremendously.
  16. Late response so you've probably sorted it by now. I had the same - intermittent battery warning. The battery was checked and found to be 88%; replaced it anyway at Eden Tyres with a battery big enough to start a tractor, but that didn't solve the problem. The car is in next week for a new alternator. A useful little gadget, available on Ebay, plugs into the 12V cabin socket and gives a digital display of the battery voltage. You can therefore easily check if the alternator is charging. Your short journeys don't do the battery much good.
  17. I've downloaded Forscan and it needs an activation code to continue which I don't have and can't see how to get. The site is confusing and seems to give instructions for the extended version only.
  18. Likewise here. It's the simplest and most effective way to immobilise the car. As you say, you have to remember to switch it back on!
  19. As well as a visible deterrent like a steering lock, you need a hidden one. I have fitted a hidden switch in the 12V supply to the petrol pump which means that, should the lowlife start the car, it will run for about 10 seconds and then cut out.
  20. Is it worth switching to the worst customer service in the industry?
  21. Treat it to a dyno session to see exactly what it is doing.
  22. PS is metric horse power and for all intents and purposes, PS and brake horse power are the same ie 85PS = 83.8bhp. The higher the figure, the faster you go.
  23. Posters on here who misuse the words there, their and they're.
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