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About Devizes

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  • Ford Model
    Focus II
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  1. Hi, maybe someone can help me with my case? I tried to find a similar problem on this forum but have not quite found the same symptoms. Problem: Car does not always start Situation: It has been doing this for the last 6 months but has gone worse and it doesn't matter in what weather or temperature I try it - in fact I strongly believe it's to do with the key/barrel or even the ignition switch/transponder detector. Description of Fault: My main key (the one with the fob) has stopped working - it stopped turning inside the barrel. I started using the spare key. this was about 2 years ago. Yes, I had the two keys always with me on the same ring since then. about 6 months ago I started noticing that when trying to start the engine I only heard a click that sounded as coming from the engine department but insisting a few times it would eventually start. The few times became many times, until I noticed that pushing the key in whilst turning it would help to start at first attempt. Please note that by pushing the key in I mean there is a sprung action within the barrel. The key is fully inserted, but if pushed further in it feels like the inner core of that part goes in a further couple of mill, letting the key go it comes back out those two mill. I hope the description helps someone to give me a hint of what I should replace. I have seen videos where the ignition switch is replaced, but I don't clearly see what the initial problem is so cannot say it is the same as mine. when searching for that part I also get offered the barrel. I don't want to spend more money than really required so if the symptoms are clear to someone who can point me to the right part I would be much obliged.
  2. I think I can answer my own question...... but please confirm.... I will have access to the harness by removing the trim on top of the gate, so it's not the spoiler on the outside but the trim on the other side (interior) this should allow the access right?
  3. just went out to test your theory and it worked. I loosened the cable flex conduit on both sides exposing the black wires. As a comment: there are only black wires and these all look having the same core size which will be a pain to know what is what there, but I suppose I only need to find the culprit ones. whilst wiggling the wires that go into the roof nothing happened..... but as soon as I started to wiggle the ones that go into the lid the locking mechanism started clicking as if someone was forcing it to open, which was great to see or hear as it must be where the problem lies. So well done guys in pointing me to this part of the car. So now the next step will be finding where exactly the wires have become exposed. If I remove the hatch spoiler will I have better access to that area where the cables come into the lid? Because if this isn't the case I don't see how I would be able to do anything without having to strip the whole harness out. Any ideas guys?
  4. thank you guys I will have a look at that and report back
  5. Hi all, looks like after 10 years this thread is still very much alive. I guess that as long as these cars are around this will be the case.... here is my take on this.... My problem started yesterday on a 2005 Focus 1.6 Petrol. It looked initially as others say that the boot lock opens at random times.... well in my case it looked that way until I found a repeatable action that I can replicate every time... so in my case it's not random. It happens when I depress and release the brake pedal. Here is what I tried so far. Facts I: - Locking mechanism unlocks every time I release the brake pedal - The Micro-Switch on the boot does not work, it does not unlock the boot as it used to 2 days ago - Remote (plip) boot unlock still works I removed the boot lid plastic cover and undid the 4 x 10 mill nuts to loosen the black plastic trim where the micro-switch is housed. Of course when removing the rubber cover from the body it was all wet and full of lime scale. However, when pushing the swivel plate off the way to uncover the micro-switch button, this one actually looked clean. I removed the connector and pulled the whole switch assy of the trim. Facts II: - the micro-switch works flawlessly. With a multimeter I could confirm that this is not the faulty part, even though there is the question why it doesn't give the lock the opening signal. This now seemed a bigger problem. Even with the switch removed from the vehicle and using the brake pedal I could here the locking mechanism working. So I have a much bigger problem than just the switch. Next thing was to remove the locking mechanism and check it out.... at this point my mind was wondering already about the problem being somewhere else and not the lock, but I continued. Removed the lock just to reveal that it looked dry and clean. Detached the electrics to the lock and here is where I could support the idea that I had a much bigger problem. The white plastic connector has 6 points/pins so you can have an idea how I looked at it; the two empty points are on the left. from left to right now Points 1 and 2 - empty (no connections) point 3 - Battery (that's all I could think of as voltage is around 12V point 4 - with and without ignition ON 10.60 to 10.75, respectively point 5 - Ground? point 6 - Ignition OFF at 0.28V; ignition ON 5.88V. I can only assume this is the signal point. When I open the boot via the remote this point changes voltage, but it's so quick that my multimeter cannot display the value and drops back to 5.88V. And as expected when releasing the brake pedal the same signal appears. Here is where I cannot continue as I don't have the electrical schematics for this car. I thought that it could be related to the stop lights so I checked all 3, by cleaning the mess under the light housings to reveal clean and sealed cables.... so also nothing here. The 3rd stop light looked very wet when removed, but also here I couldn't see anything wrong. The question is now where does the signal cable go and where would it be interacting with the brake lights signal? Also, why does the micro switch not work.... I forgot to check if there was any feed to the switch, my bad....
  6. Dear all, I'm new to this forum, stumbled on it whilst googling for a solution for my Mk2 1.6 October 2005 Focus. I just bought the car and then when testing it for about 10 minutes I didn't notice this, but the engine hesitates whenever I'm not accelerating or accelerating mildly. when driving on uneven pavements the hesitation is still there but one might not appreciate it is there due to the shaking of the vehicle. This is probably why I didn’t notice it when test driving it. On the way from the (independent) dealer via the motorway I noticed this hesitation immediately. I complained to the dealer and they without hesitation asked for the car back, but I still notice this even after they saying that the problem was the new Bosch sparkplugs they fitted when servicing it. Apparently the problem was fixed with new NGKs This time it did feel like the problem was fixed or at least minimised. But soon after, on the motorway, I noticed the problem again. Back home and looking under the bonnet it looked like they also have replaced the ignition leads as the lettering on them is very white. The coilpack is still the old one. More recently I asked a colleague who is into motor racing to have a look and he drove the car for a couple of miles, immediately feeling the problem. It is ever so subtle most of the time but it is there. However what he noticed was that the hesitation seemed to be always with the accelerator pedal in the same angle or position. Thinking about what he was saying it made sense with what I had been feeling since the beginning. The hesitation doesn’t happen when the pedal is pushed a bit further. This could be the TPS (throttle positioning sensor) he said or the throttle body needing a clean…. I have a cheap OBD tester and checked the throttle position percentage – here is where I have doubts: - When checking the TPS in percentage, it is a fixed value when key is in pos II. Moving the pedal does not change it. Is this normal on this car model? I have had other brands and it moved. - When engine is running the percentage varies with the pedal position. - Idling the percentage is 15.7 to 16.1 - Pressing the pedal ever so gentle it jumps from that value to around 18 to 19%. - If I press just slightly farther the percentage could go up but also down…. Strange yes - If I press even farther it goes up to 20% and holds it steady if I don’t move the foot. - Pressing a bit more makes the % go up through all expected values. Could this be the problems? Or could there be any other component failing? The car is still in warranty so I would appreciate any push into the right direction. Just taking the car back doesn’t seem to be helpful since they might not be looking at the right fault location?!