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About Ubetcha

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    If it ain't broke.. I'll brake it

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  • Ford Model
    Mk3 Focus Zetec-S
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  • UK/Ireland Location

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  • Location
    Co. Donegal, Rep. of Ireland

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  1. Yesterday I had to check one of my fuses in my fuse tap as my dash cam had stopped working. Note to self, it's really difficult to remove a mini blade fuse from a fuse tap in situ and of course the rain started to batter down whilst I was laying with my head under the passenger foot well and the passenger door wide open. It turned out the fuse was fine and my son must of knocked the cigarette lighter adaptor as the slightest wiggle got it working again. However i discovered something today which got me thinking? I've fuse tapped fuse #86 - 86 10 Restraint system, occupant classification system, passenger air bag deactivation indicator, manual air conditioning heater module Have you ever tried to start your engine with fuse #86 removed? It didn't start for me when I tried to drive the car from the side of the house in an attempt to gain shelter from the rain, into the garage. So that got me thinking, especially in these times of keyless thefts. Could you switch your #86 fuse by using a homemade fuse extension, hide a switch somewhere in your car and then if somebody did try to steal it using RF keyless repeater at least the engine wouldn't start? I was thinking of something like this for the switched home made fuse extension with a couple of tweeks.. Just wondered what you guys think of this idea?
  2. Dirty Boyz.. ROFL EDIT: How do you fit everything through a 3cm hole? 😌
  3. Subtle is better, my cars pretty two tone, grey and black so these fit in nicely.. ninja!
  4. OK, so for today's Friday Fun! Here's a big bag of my new nuts.. A a close up on a pair of my nuts.. oo-er! Why change my nuts? Here's why.. Here's a cracking tip for you: New vs Old.. Never again will this happen to me.. yay!
  5. Fitted late last night, the sun even came out (briefly) for the photos! Very happy with DMB for these, £20 or so.. I did get a third badge (for the steering wheel) but I'm sure you get the idea, I didn't take a photo of that one! Front: Rear: Very hard to notice any differences if I'm honest, a stealth install. I'm very happy with them.
  6. Yes, I had initially reported it but it seems these reports dont do anything
  7. Answer : No, stop reading those American threads and maybe you wont get confused!! American cars have a lot more 'state laws' and fit intake resonators to quieten down the noise, your UK car wouldn't have one of these!! OK, so my next picture is a bit of a LOL, it's the prices for the different models of K&N's suitable for our vehicles, one hell of a difference in price seeing that really they don't improve things. High lighted the E-2993 as I'll probably go for that one if I keep my closed Zetec airbox. I've been giving this some thought, yes the RS airbox looks fancy but it's not going to do very much in terms of performance so I'm just throwing a fair chunk of money down the drain. Hmm i'm undecided.. Should I decide to go ahead with the RS airbox, and possibly the E-9289 and remove the bung I know I'm going to enjoy the induction noise. Does anybody know the external diameter of the original RS paper air filter? The E-2993 Outer Diameter is 159mm, The E-9289 Base Outside Diameter 5.75 in (146 mm) according to this I'm just wondering what the original RS paper filter outside diameter is so that I'll know if they'll be a gap or not. The more I think about this the more i'm moving away from this idea. Here's a side view of the RS airbox that you don't see too often, if I kept the E-2993 and upgraded to the RS airbox would the E-2993 seal against the edges of the RS airbox or would I have to then buy the E-9289?
  8. I presume you've checked this out Dave?
  9. Yes that would be indeed a nice touch, unfortunately I've just painted the whole thing Blue! I'll see how it looks once it's had a second coat and then maybe I'll add some detailing. I've got a shed load of paint left though!
  10. Yes and not only the ease of resetting it, it's the correct amperage (well nearly) as the amps got a 25A fuse. Additionally and this perhaps is the biggest reason for doing the swap, If I had to swap that 80A fuse I can bet my life that I would drop something, the fuse, a screw, anything down into the under belly of the engine. Now at least the reset is tool-less and that's far simpler and easier for everyone involved!
  11. So as I said in my caliper thread, I've been doing bits and bobs on the car today. Whilst I waited for the first coat of caliper paint to dry I set about removing my audio fuse holder and replacing it with my newer one. Obviously to do this I need to remove the battery and what makes that task even easier is to remove the air filter's air box. That in itself is quite handy as I've never removed this before and thinking about changing this unit for an RS one it'll be very informative for me to do. Airbox removed. Airbox underside. What's lurking under the airbox? Airbox held up to the light showing three tiny holes. Question : Am I supposed to have a device (can't remember it's name at the minute) connected to the underside of the air box and screwed up onto the chassis somewhere which minimises the intake sound, like a harmoniser or similar? I couldn't see one.
  12. So as I said in my caliper thread, I've been doing bits and bobs on the car today. Whilst I waited for the first coat of caliper paint to dry I set about removing my audio fuse holder and replacing it with my newer one. New trip switch fuse holder (30A) Which is replacing the old 'replace the blown fuse type' of fuse holder (80A - OMG that was overkill for my install) New fuse holder wired up. New fuse holder in place, in tripped out position (OFF). Everything back together and looking stock, admittedly it really needs a ***** good engine clean.
  13. I've been doing bits and bobs on the car today, I started off finishing the brake caliper painting (I hadn't painted the rears last weekend) so here's a few pictures of what's involved.. It's really child's play but if you've never done this then at least you can see what's involved. Caliper wire brushed. Caliper spray cleaner (provided) then wiped down with an old rag. Caliper masked up. Caliper 1st coat of paint Calipers 2nd coat of paint (I haven't finished the passenger side yet, so this is the drivers side) Masking tape removed and wheel refitted. I also wanted to show you how much paint is left over after painting four calipers, a hell of a lot (as you can see, I haven't even used a fifth of the paint pot) Hmm.. what else could I paint? I don't want to go mad painting everything but something subtle? Here's an idea..
  14. OK, so I've been researching this for the past few hours, really my eyes are starting to go square and I've almost had enough so I thought I'd share my findings with you: I've written off the 'after market' cold air induction kits such as Steeda and Roush purely down to price, hey they look pretty but they're around £300 and I feel that's just overpriced and wasteful. According to that video, this whole exercise will pretty much give zero performance gains so why would I throw away £300, I just can't justify throwing that much away.. So we're left with the RS air box which I'll probably go with. I got the part numbers and made a couple of pictures. Price wise the complete unit is around £130 whilst the top is around £80 so it's far more cost effective to go with the complete unit which even includes an RS paper air filter! I can justify throwing £130 at this idea. I'll probably run the paper filter for a year and then upgrade it to a K&N E-9289 filter as mentioned at the top of this thread. I'm a little concerned about the other pipes that go into the original RS box, my attached diagram doesn't show any piping for the underside so that's obviously not an RS/ST diagram. Is it just the 2nd cold air feed that will be missing, will everything else match up? If I am missing an underside cold air feed the guys over at Focal Jet may have a rather cost effective solution.. I'd need some additional information relating to the underside of the RS filter box and if the 3" pipe will fit without modification or not, ultimately it's not really a problem but I do try to know as much as I can before I start these projects. Actually looking a my own pictures of the RS airbox it looks like the second feed is below the filters inlet manifold? If that's the case I guess it could be blocked and I could cut a 3" whole in the bottom for the new ram air feed. I'm gonna have a break now, my brain hurts!