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About nitten_traveller

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    Settling In Well

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  1. nitten_traveller

    2013 Focus: boot switch clicks but won't open - any ideas?

    I took my car to the local dealer today to have this fixed. The lock mechanism has seized completely and needs to be replaced sez the service manager. Quite how they'll get it off if it's locked in place I am not sure, perhaps I shouldn't ask in case they're about to do unspeakable things with an angle grinder?
  2. nitten_traveller

    Really strange boot issue?

    My mk3 yesterday developed the exact opposite problem in that the boot is now permanently locked and cannot be opened. I think this makes me Yin and you Yang? And, on average, both boots work fine!
  3. nitten_traveller

    2013 Focus: boot switch clicks but won't open - any ideas?

    Thanks! I've a feeling that access to the handles might be restricted by the boot floor but will take a look later on.
  4. nitten_traveller

    Fiesta car seat cover recommendations

    If the covers are just to hide the stains have you tried having the inside of the car professionally cleaned? I had both of ours done earlier this year and they looked like new afterwards.
  5. nitten_traveller

    2013 Focus: boot switch clicks but won't open - any ideas?

    If by "tap" you mean "wallop" then I've tried that! Plus lots of bouncing up and down. The interweb proffers a variety of causes from battery not having enough oomph (but the car starts just fine) to blown fuse (checked, it's fine) to loose connection (possibly?) to knackered solenoid (as you suggest) to entirely seized mechanism. That it's making a click sound suggests to me that it is mechanical and not electrical. I can't see a way of getting the inside trim off without breaking it. There is as you say no way of opening it from the inside, at least not that's obvious. A trip to the dealer it is.
  6. nitten_traveller

    (Can of Worms) Petrol grades

    Ooops - systematic error! Thanks for spotting it.
  7. Evening all, My beloved 2013 Focus has this evening developed an odd problem - I can't open the boot lid! It was fine at 1830 when I left work but I've just now tried to open it again and it won't. Either by the key fob button or by the button on the lid. There's a light click, as if something is trying to happen, but no louder noise of the opening mechanism. The other doors lock and unlock OK. It is the same if the engine is switched on or off. I recorded a short video of the clicking noise and will upload if anyone would like to hear it. Any ideas? The Haynes manual is mostly silent on this. Cheers.
  8. nitten_traveller

    (Can of Worms) Petrol grades

    I keep a spreadsheet of my fuel use to see how the mpg works out etc. Each time I fill up until the nozzle clicks. The closest stations to me are a Tesco and a Shell garage and I've tried to vary the fuel but get a block of three tanks per fuel type. Apart from V-Power, as the garage I visited on 16/9 didn't have any V-Power! In October my Dad helpfully added £20s worth of Morrison's fuel for me, which throws out things a little. The Sainsbury tank was an emergency fuel when I found that the Costco station closes when the store closes (at least in Edinburgh) so I used the Sainsbury next door. I didn't notice the car behave any differently with those fuels. The car's computer consistently overestimates the mpg compared with brim-to-brim calculations so either I am using an incorrect conversion (1 gallon = 4.456 litres) or the car is not doing it properly. Most of my driving is in Edinburgh and the surrounding area. Occasionally I have an extended fast run but not all that often. The "miles to go" display is fun for playing a bit of petrol station roulette. My car has a 1.0 L Ecoboost engine so I was not expecting anything significant from the Momentum or V-Power fuels in terms or performance or indeed mpg. And that's what I see. There is no immediately obvious fuel economy reason to use the higher octane fuel nor did I notice any difference in how the car behaved. This is only on a few data points though. I don't drive often so consequently don't refuel too often. By the time I have enough data I'll probably be thinking of replacing the car! But for now using premium fuel is not worth the extra money. The car handbook says to use only "high quality 95 RON fuel and no additives" and that is good enough for me. Ford recommend BP and I think I will use BP fuel for the next few tanks (though the BP garage close to my work charges quite a lot for fuel compared with other places). As others have said though you can't quantify the benefit to the engine of regularly using branded fuel vs supermarket fuel. Anecdotally, however, it's a bit different. My previous car was a 1.8L 54 plate Laguna. It had belonged to my dad since it was six months old and I know that he would have fed it a diet of Morrisons petrol, deviating only when he filled up away from home. I fed it whatever was closest and cheapest, probably Tesco 95 more often than not. I sold it with 102,000 miles on the clock and the engine was absolutely solid, quiet, responsive.
  9. nitten_traveller

    Things I Do Like

    I like that I appear to have an honest service manager at my local dealer. During the apres-service chat he noted that the front pads are "80% worn, but with your mileage you should be ok until the next service. Keep an eye on them. You're welcome to bring the car in any time and we'll check them for free if you're not sure". The honesty made up for them not washing the car! (Which I wasn't bothered about, just the front is muddy and I was hoping they'd sort it...) .
  10. nitten_traveller

    Mot and service

    Try here:!/vehicle-step It will give prices from dealers in your area and there can sometimes be quite a variation in price for the same service. My local Ford dealer is "independent" and will price match other quotes though as they're cheaper than my village garage I've not needed to try this. I've also heard of people obtaining quotes for service at Halfords and using that to get their dealer to price match. In this case it states that Ford parts will be used so ought to be apples-to-apples. The place that Fits things Kwikly offers MoT tests for £25. Having said all that £179 for service and MoT is a fair price. I've just had a 5 year service, without MoT, on my Focus for £167. The Ford roadside assistance that you get when the car is serviced by Ford makes it very good value, I think.
  11. nitten_traveller

    Best method or product to remove an oil mark from a car seat

    Wet wipes brought it off a treat! Heaven only knows what they're soaked in... if it shifts dirt and brake dust from upholstery what is it doing to your skin?!
  12. nitten_traveller


    My car is booked for MOT tomorrow. Five years old, 23,000 miles, just had four new tyres (the only thing it might have failed on, not any more), front pads will need replacing this year but not at the moment. Otherwise all is well, as far as I know. I could have taken it to KF at the weekend for £25 but I still booked it into the local council garage where I shall pay twice as much. I'm not sure why, just got the feeling that those pads might have been an issue at KF!
  13. nitten_traveller

    Best method or product to remove an oil mark from a car seat

    It could just be brake dust - basically it's just a black smudge so it's whatever was on his sleeve. I'll try wet wipes first then. Thanks!
  14. Morning all, I hope that as a lot of you work on your own cars you'll have had this problem and might be able to offer a solution.. On Friday I had all the tyres replaced on my car by a mobile fitter. Unfortunately as he put the locking wheel nut back into the glove box the cuff of his overall must have brushed against the passenger seat and has left a black mark on the light grey fabric. To be fair to him it was dark when he finished the job so he wouldn't have noticed and neither did I until the weekend when I drove in daylight. Naturally I wish to remove the stain! Eurocarparts sell several different sprays/foams for "carpet" cleaning (, which I assume also can be used to clean the seats. Or has anyone had good results with a drop of Fairy liquid and a toothbrush? I don't want to try anything DIY which may make it worse. I had the interior of the car cleaned earlier in the year and since it's generally only me in the car the passenger and rear seats are pristine!
  15. nitten_traveller

    How many handbrake clicks should hold a KA?

    The spring 2018 service was done at our local Ford garage! In their defence the five year service schedule says keep the wheels on; I checked the paperwork this morning and it refers only to checking the front pads/discs. MOT paperwork says the parking brake efficiency was 23% (pass is 16 or 17%, I forget which). The spring 2017 service was done at a garage close to my work for convenience though I won't use them again for the reason below. All previous services done by Mr A Clark under a service package when the car was bought. In October 2017 Mrs N_T picked me up from somewhere... the first time she had to tap the brakes you could hear the squealing. "Oh yes, I have been meaning to ask about that"... me "it's your brake pads saying time's up, we'll get them changed" [This should have been picked up at the service I think but there is nothing on the paperwork about them]. The next morning I got a text when at work: "the noise changed to a crunching every time I braked so I took it to [a place that Fits things Kwikly] next to work as that's where I took it last time so the pads will be free*". Ergo, third set of pads and at least the second set of discs too. The trouble is that compared to my Focus the KA feels like it has the build quality of a shopping trolley. When driving it I find it hard to tell the difference between something mechanical which is worn out and something mechanical which is actually meant to be like that. * the cheeky so and sos nevertheless tried to charge for the pads and were promptly put right by Mrs N_T!