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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

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About gooty

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  • Ford Model
    1.6 tdci
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  • UK/Ireland Location
  1. OUTCOME: When I started it up, the cog/i warning light had returned, and it was in limp mode. I drove it to see if the DPF needed drying out, but it was really sluggish in every gear. Using forscan, I reset the fault codes, and the warning light was gone. So was the limp mode. It drove better than it ever has before. The acceleration was incredible. I took it for a half an hour drive up the motorway at 80mph in fourth gear at 4000rpm. when home, I used forescan again. It still had code P2459 (maximum number of regens reached). I wanted to do a static regen to see if I could get rid of it now that the dpf was clean, but it failed again half way through. Realising that the code was obviously stating I had reached the maximum allowed, I reset it. However, this option says that you must not perform a static regen afterwards. I checked the codes and now there are NONE!!!!!! The car drives like a dream. Hopefully it will do an active regen whilst driving like it should do. I'd like to thank peter for all of his help and hope that this post will help others in the future :)
  2. After all of the effort I've put into this mend (replaced glowplugs, new oil filter, new genuine ford bonnet lock, top up eolys, new oil/oil filter etc.), I've decided to take the dpf off and jetwash its inside. Removing the dpf was straightforward using this german youtube clip below. The only hard bits were undoing the two rusted bolts holding the back of the dpf to the flexi exhaust and actually sliding out the unbolted dpf. I thought the jetwash would have blown out loads of black carbon, but there was only an occasional small clump the size of a smartie sweet. The total would have probably filled 2 egg cups by the end. The bulk of what came out was this red rusty looking water. It seemed to just keep coming until finally it turned clear. I googled more youtube clips of professional dpf cleaning by water and theirs were the same. Its all bolted in now, with a new genuine ford metal exhaust gasket between the dpf and flexi exhaust (only £5). I also had to get two new replacement bolts to tighten it up. All I've got to do now is put them in today and I'll start it up and post what happens.
  3. EDIT: This part is wrong... 'The 'bungs' are removed by using a small electricians screwdriver to lever out a different coloured 'clip' thats in-built into the 'bungs' side before you pull it off.' It should be.... 'The 'bungs' are removed by pressing/holding in the different coloured section on its side as you pull off.'
  4. hi peter, after putting in 1.5ltr of eolys (it wasnt enough to come out of the overflow pipe), I used forscan to check 'refill', 'prime' but it wouldnt let me 'reset'. I tried static regen twice, but it failed both times half way through. However, the cog/i warning lamp went off and the 2nd lot of codes appeared (shown above), but it was still cutting out at 3000 rpm. today I changed the oil filter and it runs like a dream :) -remember there was a low pressure fuel code. I cleared the codes and now all I have is P2459 Ive tried yet another static regen, but it failed again. I know its not cutting out at 3000rpm anymore, but is there a way to clear this final code?
  5. UPDATE: After trying static regens (both failed) and fitting a new diesel filter, the car is no longer in limp mode. The only code I have now is P2459. Any advice appreciated
  6. UPDATE: Cheapest one I could find that was made for fords was on ebay (didnt want to save a few pounds on cheaper jml one and risk ruining my engine). Its listed as for volvos/fords and cost £70 for 1.5ltr with filling kit (includes delivery). NB: You need to wear gloves, goggles and mask as this is dangerous stuff!!!!! You will also need a small electricians screwdriver and a torch. I didnt have to jack up the car. I'm a large guy and I did it easily by just sliding under with my back on the ground. Firstly, attach the big bore pipe screw lid to the kits eolys fluid container and the small bore pipe screw lid to the kits smaller empty container. Crawl underneath and remove both the inlet tank pipe 'bung' (tanks long pipe) and the overflow tank pipe 'bung' (tanks short pipe). These 'bungs' are removed by using a small electricians screwdriver to lever out a different coloured 'clip' thats in-built into the 'bungs' side before you pull it off, Next, push on the refill kit connectors 'bungs' by firstly holding in the sprung mechanism on either side. You will hear/feel the click as they engage. Leave the kits empty overflow container on the ground with its screw-on lid slightly loose so as to let the air out during refill. Crawl out and stand up, then hold the refill bottle as high as it will go. Twist the on/off valve built into its cap to 'open', then invert and squeeze gently. When new fluid can be seen entering the overflow pipe, you know that your cars tank is full. Remove the kit etc. and replace the original bungs. Reset your cars computer to 'dpf fluid full' with forscan and its done. Job took 20mins. NB: my local fords wanted £140 to do this job (didn't ask, but assuming this included VAT). As one refill bottle wasnt enough, it would have been just as cheap to have them do it lol.
  7. I couldn't wait, so tried what I thought was correct but its all gone wrong :( 1) I selected 'refill' 2) I selected 'prime' 3) I tried selecting 'reset' but it wouldnt. 4) I tried 'static regeneration', but half way through a message came up saying that it had failed and to try again. 5) 'static regeneration' failed again. Incidentally these different fault codes are showing now, but at least the 'cog/exclamation mark' warning light is now gone. OLD
  8. I've filled the eolys tank with 1.5ltrs, but it didnt come out of the overflow pipe so assume it needs more. Can I reset the level with forscan saying its full, even though it isnt?
  9. been reading up and some sites say not to put cheap ebay eolys fluid in. One also said u need to put 2.5 ltrs in as it wont reset if not full???? Is this true and what eolys do you guys use and from where? Thanks
  10. second, third and fourth questions... 2) what's required to clear these faults? 3) Do these tie up with the COG/EXCLAMATION mark warning light? 4) If my car wont rev over 3000rpm without cutting out, will forscan override this to do the 4000rpm needed for forced regen (assuming thats whats needed)?
  11. hooked it up and my first question is.... 1) its showing this message. How do I know which way the toggle switch needs to be to set HS/MS can switch to MS can bus position?
  12. It arrived today :) do i I load the normal forscan or wine edition?
  13. yes please. do i need a usb one as need to order adapter asap from ebay and dont want to get the wrong one?