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Everything posted by artscot79

  1. wow I thought this was a ford forum seems a lot has changed on here including ***** attitudes well mods I'm deleting my account sorry to say the forum is not what it was go ahead have parts changed good luck getting notorious ford customer service to give the go ahead the new parts do exactly the same when they dry out so when the 3 year warranty goes you'll be greasing them up anyway
  2. and illegal and an mot fail if not fitted with auto levelling sensors and exterior washers
  3. it's no theory its fact I should know ive fixed enough of them mk1 mk2 and mk3 it,was lubed because ford know of the issue hence why they lubed it in the first place if you want it sorted trust me don't pick a ford they'll lube it up with white grease and send you on youre way take a look if you're not convinced its went on a long time https://uk.search.yahoo.com/search?p=ford+focus+dry+suspension+creak&fr=opensearch
  4. like I said its happened since 1998 lubricating the dry rubbers etc with white grease spray is the only way that you cure it once in the summer once in the winter
  5. nothing you've turned will effect the car that way what youre experiencing is crabbing if you removed the gearbox you may have disturbed the subframe and steering geometry assuming its,all back together correctly and the gearbox mounts tight it may be out of alignment 4 wherl alignment will be necessary
  6. a common issue you may have open the door and look at the lock you'll see 3 torque head screws undo the bottom one get some wd 40 with the straw put the straw in the now vacant hole angle it 45 degrees so slightly upwards and spray from up to down so 45 degrees upwards then straight then downwards it prevents water from freezing and sticking the locks do all doors then spray just a small spray in the lock
  7. or you weren't paying attention driving home and ran over a beggar with a cup full of loose change...park in a quiet place if there's no muffled groans it may be too late if there is leave a pork pie and some juice out theyll eventually come out lol
  8. as dezwez said you usually can't see but it's the most common place to snap on the rear and not noticeable to many until its checked at a garage or on an not broken springs are a common failure as people don't notice
  9. the rear spring tends to break in the suspension cup you can't see it without asking the car up
  10. no it shouldn't sound like that most likely a broken spring but hard to say you really need to get under it to see..i wouldn't trust Halfords to change a bulb never mind service a car
  11. if the remote wasn't used its probably needing reprogrammed but you can't do that till you get in the car but even with a dead battery the driver door should manually unlock the battery has enough juice so either the keys work the ignition but not the locks or the locks are faulty you may need to call a locksmith out to get into the car yunni the 12.3 v refers to the car standing no idle after a week
  12. I find it unlikely its a head gasket if the engine had that kind of fault two cylinders turn into air pumps a lack of power would be obvious but seriously and im not being rude when someone says a 1.0 ecoboost diesel it does say you know little about cars and are an easy target for unscrupulous garages
  13. if you filled it to the top you've overfilled it and it will slowly drip till it gets below the join of the neck where the two parts meet easy to tell it will be dripping from the front of the arch liner
  14. there isn't a permemant solution the rubbers have just dried out the garage will lubricate certain bits but not all of them adequately if there was a permemant solution ford wouldn't still have the same issue almost 19yrs later
  15. doesn't have to be the head gasket if the oil cooler goes it shows the same symptoms ..rear bushes are common but a pain to replace
  16. it's nothing new creaking suspension has been an issue on every focus since 1998 caused by nothing being lubricated at the factory cold weather and the wet dries out the rubber causing squeeks white spray grease is usually the answer
  17. no it doesn't but if you reuse they won't tighten enough the dealer realised they're mistake that's when they said they can stretch and with the hub not sitting right it knackers the new bearing
  18. the bolts should be replaced trust me ive had it done reusing the old bolts and the hub worked loose they are stretch bolts
  19. the answer is you'll get a custom exhaust other than that there's almost nothing for the tivct the odd sports cat on demon twerks and anything thane can be found is extortionately priced add to that you won't get much performance from it either
  20. mine had no codes but I bought a good quality reader which showed more info and pending codes and it showed up can bus errors for it which the old reader didn't so sometimes they are there its just the readers not good enough
  21. yeah sorry 75amp front 25rear front only stays on 5 minutes before it switches off remember some batteries charge at say 75-80amp per hour as said aircon is about 35amp add it all up you can drain a battery quickly
  22. if it was a cluster fault there will be no logs or error codes other than canbus communication errors
  23. ideally you shouldn't use both together front screen is 75amp add the rear 100amp add lights etc as well that's why its best to use the front for the least time necessary before driving off allowing the battery to charge up on the drive home
  24. do a dash test with the car not idling and idling i suspect battery as the other option is a loose wire or cluster fault
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