Ancient Mariner

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About Ancient Mariner

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  • Ford Model
    Mondeo Mk. 4 Hatchback
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  • UK/Ireland Location

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  1. I was talking to a Ford mechanic today, he tells me that you need to update the injector correction factors. I had been told that you didn't need to do that on the Mk. 4, my new Ford friend told me that you can get away with it on the vans, but not Mondeo's. My FORscan doesn't give me the option to enter the factors, it just tries to update them from the ECU. I have just downloaded the Ford Touchscan module and will try again in the morning.
  2. I took the head off, pot 4 was a different colour to the other 3. I had the head skimmed and tested and the valve seats/valves done (load of carbon on them probably causing the compression issues). Found one of the exhaust manifold bolts had sheered (loads of soot around that area). Gave the EGR a good clean. Put the head back on and set the timing, then changed the injector for pot 4, runs better, but still not right, very much down on power. Did an injector leak test and then replaced the injectors for pots 1 & 4, runs the same, so put the injectors from 1 & 4 into 2 & 3, still the same. No MIL codes are being posted. FORscan shows a decent fuel rail pressure (the high pressure pump should be putting to 200 - 1600 bar (mine was around 350 bar at idle)). Will do another leak test tomorrow and a further compression test (weather permitting). On compression, Autodata just says that the compression should be higher than 18 bar (270PSI), but then has a figure of 19.2 (I guess that is bar). At this point, I would appreciate any pointers..........
  3. Oil and coolant levels were correct, first things I checked when I got the car home. I put my oil pressure gauge on this morning and it reads 40PSI at tick over and increases with additional revs. Before I put the glow plugs back to check the oil pressure, I did another compression test (cold) and got: 1: 460psi, 2: 320psi, 3: 320 psi, 4: 300 psi. Took the rocker cover off and everything looks ok there, will remove the head tomorrow, got too cold today and I'm getting too old for this sort of thing now....
  4. It starts, but rattles like mad, the oil light goes out when running. The oil pump is behind the crank pulley. I wouldn't expect there to be more than around a 10% difference in the compression results between cylinders. I have an oil pressure test kit, once this storm passes over, I will see what the results are.
  5. The boss was on her way home on a 200 mile run and around 50 miles away, the engine started rattling and so she called me. We got the car recovered back to the house. I did a compression test this morning and got: Cyl. 1 = 610 PSI, Cyl. 2 = 415 PSI, Cyls'. 3 & 4 around 300 PSI. Any idea what the compression should be? I will take the head off in the next day or so (weather depending) and see what the story is. The car has around 150K miles on it, the timing belts were done at 120K miles and up until this happened, was running well. The alternator, water pump, idlers' and aux. belt have all been replaced in the past 12 months, the only thing not changed was the oil pump (do these fail without warning?). There are/were no warning lights and no MIL codes.