FOC Supporters
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About liamstears

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table

Profile Information

  • First Name
  • Ford Model
    Fiesta Ecoboost Titanium 125
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. These are all terms that seem to get mixed/muddle up, I've attached a picture that hopefully will help So to your far right in red is the airbox, coming out of that is a red pipe which is known as the "induction hose/pipe". This then connects to the crossover pipe, stock is black plastic but you can get metal ones like the picture hence the term "crossover hard pipe". This then connects to your "secondary induction hose/pipe" but most will refer to this as just the "secondary hose" or "secondary pipe". Then just to the front, left of the turbo you will see another shiny pipe that's black plastic on a stock car. This is whats known as the "turbo hard pipe". Hope this helps
  2. Sounds to me like you have the newer MK8 fiesta? If so this is a known fault and it's documented on these forums, go back to the dealer and force then to fix it, it's a hardware fault somewhere and bits need to be replaced...
  3. Yeh I got the same that's why I asked turbosmart This BOV certainly is better than the standard one 👍🏻
  4. Yeh the noise is just personal preference As for running using the standard pipe/t-connection I actually asked turbosmart directly as I was in the same boat as you and they confirmed it's perfectly fine running on the standard line, they said the extra line is basically more geared towards cars that don't have them or have non standard setups Mine has been running fine for months and the response is certainly better using the turbosmart valve
  5. Either valve will work, the difference is the more expensive one will dump half the pressure directly out the side of the valve causing the loud "whooshing" dump valve sound that boy racers like, if you want quiet operation go for the cheaper valve (I have this valve and it works really well) Also you don't have to cut vacuum hoses you can use the standard one already on the car and that's how I fit mine
  6. Use these: Very good quality bulbs and that is a very good price for them
  7. Brake squeeks and squeals are quite common and most of the time nothing to worry about Braking over time causes a huge build up of brake dust which quite literally goes everywhere so the moving parts which quite often are a little greased can dry up and cause these problems Taking them apart and cleaning them, using a bit of copper grease and they are normally good to go However squeaks and squeals can also be an indication of some sort of failure, worn pads most common but it is also possible to have other issues like warps on mounting arms etc but much less common If you are competent at taking them apart do it yourself and give them a check and clean, if not it's always good to get them checked by a trusted mechanic as brakes are an essential part of your vehicle 👍🏻 Hope you find this post helpful
  8. Do you mean the fascia/buttons? If so there are 2 clips which normally come off n get stuck in the car, you have to pull these out and attach them to the fascia before it will go in
  9. Check your brake light switch Looks like a little plunger that goes into a little box with an electrical connector on it. Be in the footwell on the brake pedal Disconnect it and if your brake lights go out that's the problem, either a faulty switch or it's not triggering correctly, I don't know if these are adjustable in our cars Check it first and go from there. If it's the switch it's easy to test the switch, just plug it back in and operate the plunger by hand
  10. There is a lot of misconception on LED but I will share some things which are facts Colour temperature, fact - cars are manufactured with LED bulbs at 6000k LED rear lights and indicators, fact - cars are manufactured with them I have never seen anything definitive in documentation about an MOT which would specifically say a retrofit LED light would fail an MOT, indicators in an MOT basically say if fitted they need to work. Another fact is that "MOST" MOT testers just check that a bulb is working, they don't take the time to check what type of bulb it is or whether that type of bulb is factory fit to the vehicle, to be fair they don't really have time. Face - Low beam headlights if LED must be in a projector lens (ours are projector lenses) Hope this post is helpful EDIT: Found this well written article which give some information that is useful: To sum up that article LED bulbs are technically not road legal BUT should pass an MOT without issue.
  11. I've had no issues with bulbs so far, I use LED completely, I have no incandescent bulbs on my car at all and I've had no issues going through an MOT even at a Ford Dealer 👍🏻
  12. Nice 👍🏻 Still get those turbo pipes sanded off n covered with a decent high temp paint, you don't want those rusting through Mods: Change front grille to honeycomb type Head unit upgrades (Sat Nav?) Reverse camera Paint wheel centre caps to match care colour (check my threads out for this one) Gel overlays on badges Shorter aerial (look on the forum and only use the genuine ford one, richbrook etc are not good for reception) Floor mats can be had on eBay, I think it's about £25 for a standard set and £35 for the velour set If I think of anything else I'll add to this post
  13. I think those are some pretty solid choices 👍🏻 Good luck hope the car is what you wanted and if not checked already I recommend checking the turbo pipes for rust 👍🏻
  14. Autobeam bulbs are extremely overpriced, don't get me wrong you can't knock the quality or the customer service but it's a shame the prices are so high, also their website can be misleading as none of the prices include VAT. I would recommend checking out Auxito bulbs on eBay, I currently am swapping to them and have some interior bulbs and indicator bulbs from them and the quality is excellent (and they are much more reasonably priced) Rear bulbs differ depending on which light unit is installed. There is a standard set of rear lights that use all bulbs and that requires the double contact bulb and there's an led set of rear lights which again use all bulbs apart from normal rear lights which are led and are clear to see by the distinct straight lines in the casing, these require the single filament rear brake bulb. LED number plate lights I use the autobeam ones myself, these are something you can't cheap out on, I've had cheap ones off eBay and they go brittle and break eventually, the autobeam ones are a good solid sealed unit and I've had no trouble with them at all. Because of the way they fit though you will have the contacts in the bulb holder just loose behind the unit and you will end up with water in the contacts if you don't protect them, easiest thing to do is when you fit them and checked they are working just wrap the connection up in some electrical tape and get a nice seal to keep the water out 👍🏻
  15. What exactly is the little bit on the negative battery cable? I know it's there for stop start/battery monitoring but what is it? Is the one on mk7.5's the same as on the new mk8's? Is a mk8 one compatible with a mk7.5?