liamstears

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About liamstears

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Liam
  • Ford Model
    Fiesta Ecoboost Titanium 125
  • Ford Year
    2014
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Kent

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  1. liamstears

    Please give me your settings

    Hi all If you have a fiesta mk7.5 that has 17" wheels from the factory please send me the circumference setting that is set using forscan...
  2. liamstears

    New Wheels

    Thanks for the informative replys guys but you have all missed the kicker on this one Work out my original wheel size and you will get somewhere around 1887 but my car was set to 1835 This was the reasoning for my question and really want to know what people have theirs set to out the factory with 17" wheels...
  3. liamstears

    New Wheels

    Bit confused here Old wheels: 195/50 R16 New sheels: 205/40 R17 In forscan change Tire dimension from old to new but what about tire circumference? Its currently set at 1835mm but that doesn't make sense to me when using circumference calculators, what should it be set to for 17" alloys? What do you guys have it set to?
  4. liamstears

    Heated seats

    Would also like to say thanks for this thread as I never noticed this extra cable and didn't even realise these buttons should be lit constantly lol
  5. liamstears

    Heated seats

    Most of the info you need is in the picture above of the wiring diagram This shows that the loose lead from your first post goes to pin 5 of connector C237, I personally dont know which connector this is but the diagram shows it goes from there to pin 24 of connector C2280E which is the connector on the BCM itself The BCM is up in the passenger footwell, can't remember if you need to take the glove box out to see it or not and it's the one with Green White Grey and Blue connectors We just need to work out which connector is C2280E and connect your loose wire to pin 24 of it I know it's not the grey one as that is C2280G so I would assume it's either the blue or white one, do you have a blue wire with a brown stripe in pin 24 of either of those 2 connectors? If I remember rightly I never installed this cable in my fiesta when retrofitting seats so not sure what function it provides, maybe to give you pop ups on dash when activated like heating does? My retrofit seats work anyway and I'm sure I didn't add this cable but I will check and add it if I can a post pics EDIT: C237 is actually a flat grey connector under the radio so it may be worth pulling the radio and seeing if there is a blue wire with brown stripe in pin 5 of that, if there is just run it up to there and job done EDIT 2: I should have looked into this more before posting lol, look here and scroll down to the first picture: https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/99526-reversing-camera/?page=2 That is C237 and that is pin 5 in the middle with the blue with brown stripe wire, run your wire to that and jobs done!
  6. liamstears

    Wing Mirror Noise

    That's the response I sorta expected but didn't want, will have to start shopping round for a replacement, just need to decide if I go used or aftermarket new, thanks
  7. liamstears

    Wing Mirror Noise

    When locking the car after the wing mirrors have folded in sometimes the drivers side makes a funny noise like its still trying to move even though it's in, pushing it fixes it Any ideas what the issue is? Thanks 2014 Fiesta 1.0 EcoBoost 125 Titanium
  8. liamstears

    What is it?

    Left panel of dash Off the top of my head I think its black with a little bit of red on it, its square/rectangle and think its midway down the wires that run on that side parallel to the floor
  9. liamstears

    What is it?

    hi bud, it runs down the left side and connects on the left, you have to remove the left side panel by your feet and the connector is there The reason no one sells it is because although it is technically a completely separate cable, at the factory its taped up against other parts of the loom so "looks" like it's all part of the dash loom when it's not I was lucky and found a breaker that let me cut it out of a shell he had sitting in the yard
  10. liamstears

    OBD Code reader and vehicle diagnostics

    You want a modified elm327 adapter Type: 153070327324 into eBay to get an idea Then download forscan (https://forscan.org/) free to use and not only can it read faults but it can program modules and do service tasks (used it on mine for abs bleed, I have same car as you)
  11. liamstears

    ! Guide ! Retrofit Rear Electric Windows

    Honestly I can't remember, I bought all parts used though to save some £££ At a guess I would say £20-25 for drivers window switches, £20-40 for door cards, £20-40 for inner door panels, I had to get door looms too as panels didn't come with them and they were around £30 Total somewhere between £90-£135
  12. liamstears

    Finding a part.

    If going the ebay route: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2013-FORD-FIESTA-ECOBOOST-1-0-PETROL-GEAR-KNOB-GAITER-SURROUND-12-16-FREE-P-P/263784084644?hash=item3d6ac1b4a4:g:HPkAAOSwzC9bNK7f Will check the garage tomorrow though
  13. liamstears

    Finding a part.

    Think I may have one in the garage if you pay postage, will double check tomorrow as may have got rid of it
  14. liamstears

    Retrofit Rear Electric Windows

    Sorry for the delay but finally got round to throwing together a quick guide, hope it helps: https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/102637-guide-retrofit-rear-electric-windows/
  15. Done this mod to my own car so decided to write up a guide Retrofit rear electric windows, this was done on my 2014 Fiesta Titanium but I believe should be the same for all facelift mk7.5's Parts needed: Drivers door window switch for all windows Door cards for both rear doors with electric window switches Inner door panels for both rear doors including motor/regulator and door control modules Wiring looms for rear doors (most inner panels if buying from a breakers will include the looms) Access to forscan to make a programming change An extra pair of hands will make this much easier First we need to remove old parts Rear door cards need to be removed, if you follow the first 4 pictures you will see we have 3 bolts to remove, 2 behind/below the big black handle in the middle and 1 behind a small cover in the door handle. We also need to remove the window winder, this is held in by a small clip which can be pushed/pryed off with a little patience. Last bit to remove is the small triangle piece, this is held on by 1 clip and using a prying tool can be pulled straight off (Pic 5). Now remove the door card and once removed unclip the door handle mechanism behind the door handle. This will leave you with picture 6, the inner door panel. Now before going any further we need to make sure we get the next bit right to make is easier for us. Basically all in one go we need to remove the old inner panel and replace with the new so we want to make sure no mistakes are made as we are disconnecting the window. Make sure your new inner panel is close and ready to be fit. In the picture you will see 2 green circles, remove these covers to expose the 2 bolts holding the window, you may need to use the winder to move the window up/down so these are exposed. Also check the new panels line up and screws can be accessed. Now we need to disconnect the electrical connector marked in blue and then with the help of a friend you need to loosen both the bolts holding the window then remove all bolts I have marked with red circles. At this point with some wiggling the window should come loose from the panel and the panel can be removed. Your friend will need to keep hold of the window you don't want it dropping/breaking, this prob could be done on your own by wedging the window but I would not recommend it. Put the new panel in, put a couple bolts in to hold while you drop in and line up the window. What I recommend doing is at this point to not do up the window bolts fully only enough to hold lightly and only put in and do up the panel bolts. Reason for this is we want the window to sit properly and the best way to do this is to hook up the electrics and close the window fully then do up the bolts fully. Repeat this full process on the other rear window. Now we change the drivers window switch. pictures 8, 9, 10 and 11 Firstly remove the black trim, this prys off and pulls forward towards the front of the car to be removed, you can see in picture 8 the little piece you pull forwards for. Pull out the plastic cup from underneath revealing the 2 bolts, remove the bolts and the whole switch unit will come out, unplug the electrical connector from underneath and replace with your new switch unit and put back together reversing these steps. Not too much left to do now 😄 Forscan time Hook up forscan and change central config, can't remember of the top of my head exactly what settings its called (I will get a screenshot at some point), look for windows and change from front electric windows to full/all electric windows and save the change to the car. Now at this point we want to connect switches to the rear doors to operate the rear windows closing them to seat them then opening and lining up to tighten the bolts OR if you have a friend get them to operate the rear windows from the front switches while you look to line up. Close windows fully then open them up to the point you can see the bolts holding the window in place - Now tighten these bolts up fully holding the windows. Make sure all bolts are tight, connect the inner panel loom to the switch on the door card not forgetting to reconnect the door handle and fit door cards simply the reverse process of removing. DONE!! You now have full electric windows 😉 I have added extra couple photos showing electric window inner panel fitted and also the wiring looms needed as these seem harder to find