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liamstears

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About liamstears

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Liam
  • Ford Model
    Fiesta Ecoboost Titanium 125
  • Ford Year
    2014
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Kent

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  1. This happened to me too and was a really easy fix, I took out the induction hose as it makes access easier then removed the stud using a spanner (found it easier to use the ring type spanner as open ended can round it off) The stud is cheap from any dealer but if you don't want to spend the cash there's actually a spare stud already on the engine you can use, just swap the broken stud you circled in red with the yellow one I've marked, just make sure both are nice n tight when swapped and put your induction hose back in place
  2. I retrofit rear electric windows in mine n if I remember correctly not all cars have the internal wiring for them, you may be lucky you may not, I also reprogrammed using forscan, I can't remember doing anything else but I could be wrong You should have got both doors n I could have helped get them working, only having the one could cause issues but it's unknown till you try really
  3. These are all terms that seem to get mixed/muddle up, I've attached a picture that hopefully will help So to your far right in red is the airbox, coming out of that is a red pipe which is known as the "induction hose/pipe". This then connects to the crossover pipe, stock is black plastic but you can get metal ones like the picture hence the term "crossover hard pipe". This then connects to your "secondary induction hose/pipe" but most will refer to this as just the "secondary hose" or "secondary pipe". Then just to the front, left of the turbo you will see another shiny pipe that's black
  4. Sounds to me like you have the newer MK8 fiesta? If so this is a known fault and it's documented on these forums, go back to the dealer and force then to fix it, it's a hardware fault somewhere and bits need to be replaced...
  5. Yeh I got the same that's why I asked turbosmart This BOV certainly is better than the standard one 👍🏻
  6. Yeh the noise is just personal preference As for running using the standard pipe/t-connection I actually asked turbosmart directly as I was in the same boat as you and they confirmed it's perfectly fine running on the standard line, they said the extra line is basically more geared towards cars that don't have them or have non standard setups Mine has been running fine for months and the response is certainly better using the turbosmart valve
  7. Either valve will work, the difference is the more expensive one will dump half the pressure directly out the side of the valve causing the loud "whooshing" dump valve sound that boy racers like, if you want quiet operation go for the cheaper valve (I have this valve and it works really well) Also you don't have to cut vacuum hoses you can use the standard one already on the car and that's how I fit mine
  8. Use these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUXITO-BAU15S-PY21W-CANBUS-LED-TURN-SIGNAL-INDICATOR-LIGHT-BULB-AMBER-ERROR-FREE/123828593466 Very good quality bulbs and that is a very good price for them
  9. Brake squeeks and squeals are quite common and most of the time nothing to worry about Braking over time causes a huge build up of brake dust which quite literally goes everywhere so the moving parts which quite often are a little greased can dry up and cause these problems Taking them apart and cleaning them, using a bit of copper grease and they are normally good to go However squeaks and squeals can also be an indication of some sort of failure, worn pads most common but it is also possible to have other issues like warps on mounting arms etc but much less common If you
  10. Do you mean the fascia/buttons? If so there are 2 clips which normally come off n get stuck in the car, you have to pull these out and attach them to the fascia before it will go in
  11. Check your brake light switch Looks like a little plunger that goes into a little box with an electrical connector on it. Be in the footwell on the brake pedal Disconnect it and if your brake lights go out that's the problem, either a faulty switch or it's not triggering correctly, I don't know if these are adjustable in our cars Check it first and go from there. If it's the switch it's easy to test the switch, just plug it back in and operate the plunger by hand
  12. There is a lot of misconception on LED but I will share some things which are facts Colour temperature, fact - cars are manufactured with LED bulbs at 6000k LED rear lights and indicators, fact - cars are manufactured with them I have never seen anything definitive in documentation about an MOT which would specifically say a retrofit LED light would fail an MOT, indicators in an MOT basically say if fitted they need to work. Another fact is that "MOST" MOT testers just check that a bulb is working, they don't take the time to check what type of bulb it is or whether that ty
  13. I've had no issues with bulbs so far, I use LED completely, I have no incandescent bulbs on my car at all and I've had no issues going through an MOT even at a Ford Dealer 👍🏻
  14. Nice 👍🏻 Still get those turbo pipes sanded off n covered with a decent high temp paint, you don't want those rusting through Mods: Change front grille to honeycomb type Head unit upgrades (Sat Nav?) Reverse camera Paint wheel centre caps to match care colour (check my threads out for this one) Gel overlays on badges Shorter aerial (look on the forum and only use the genuine ford one, richbrook etc are not good for reception) Floor mats can be had on eBay, I think it's about £25 for a standard set and £35 for the velour set If I think of anythin
  15. I think those are some pretty solid choices 👍🏻 Good luck hope the car is what you wanted and if not checked already I recommend checking the turbo pipes for rust 👍🏻
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