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Stevesixty7

Budding Enthusiast
  • Posts

    123
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Profile Information

  • First Name
    Steve
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus 1.6 Zetec
  • Ford Year
    2011
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Staffordshire
  • Interests
    Motorsport & Racing

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Stevesixty7's Achievements

  1. Hi guys, it's been a while since I have posted, and if this needs to go elsewhere, I'm sorry. I have recently sold my 19 year old Focus Mk 1.5 due to it coming to the end of it's life, and unfortunately it was time. The interior was still absolutely perfect, but the frame of the car was costing a fortune to keep roadworthy every MOT. I might have persisted with it, had it not developed a water leak several weeks ago. My last water leak with this car was due to a cracked water pump housing which wasn't a costly fix, this one however, was different. I found that the water looked as though it was coming from one of the engine pulleys, which if the case wouldn't be a cheap fix. I'd fill the coolant to max, then after only 5 miles it is minimum or even below. I was carrying 4 litres of water around with me for short trips. I have since bought a nice 2011 plate 1.6 Zetec Focus with just 53k on it. Lovely car, and will hopefully give me many years of enjoyment. As I said, if this post is in the wrong place, I apologise. Thanks for reading. Steve.
  2. Thanks for the reply mate, I'll give it a go and see.
  3. Hey guys, it's been a while. I'm hoping someone can help with this. One morning I got in the car and started her up, put the lights on and I had headlights, but nothing on the dash and rear lights. I found that the red 30 amp fuse had blown, so replacing that was easy and all was good. After that I noticed that the brown 10 amp number plate fuse had blown too. I replaced that and the 30 amp blew again. At the moment I'm driving without the number plate lights as the main lights are more important. Any idea why these are blowing? Thanks.
  4. It was found that a wire had come from the number plate light and was probably touching something it shouldn't have. I can tell you something else, not sure if related. Around May this year, my mileage display started to malfunction, flashing on and off, just generally messed up. It hasn't done it since, but I have the door open light on all the time. I can cope with that though. At least I can drive the car anytime now. She's 17 and on her last legs maybe.
  5. I'm not too bothered about the door light right now. Priority is the fuse, I can't drive the car in the dark. That's a big problem.
  6. Thanks Ian. I've seen elsewhere that the number plate lights could be the problem, I just didn't have the time or daylight to investigate further. Also, the door open light is always on now. It wasn't at first when this occurred, but it is now. Maybe related, or is my 17 year old car ready for the knackers yard? Hope not.
  7. Hi all. I really am stumped here. This morning I got in the car as usual, turned on the lights and I had no dash lights, side lights, tail lights and number plate lights. I found out that fuse 30 had blown (red 10 amp) so I went and bought some earlier. Replaced blown fuse thinking that my problem would be fixed, but oh no. As soon as I turned the lights on, the fuse blew immediately. Side lights and tail lights work in park mode. Really hoping someone can help, thanks.
  8. I should add, sorry, that the price was from a mechanic friend of mine. The parts are almost 40 quid. I don't mind paying that sort of money for him to do the work. How much in a regular garage, I don't know.
  9. I've just had the lower ball joint and wishbone replaced as in the photo after suffering with a loud clunking/knocking coming from the left front for some time. Strangely, it made no noise at speeds over roughly 35 mph. There was also no noise under acceleration or braking, but it was awful at slower speeds on poor roads. It's all sorted now thankfully. Cost me 60 quid for parts and labour.
  10. Contrary to a YouTube video, you can get to the fuse without removing the glove box door, trim underneath or cutting a cable tie. Once you've taken out the two bolts holding the fusebox in place, there is just a couple of clips to push to get it out. You can then spin it 180 degrees to see the back side of it. I'd recommend the long nose pliers at this point to remove the fuse, it's almost covered by a wiring loom that is cable tied but you can move it to the side just enough to pull the fuse out and put in the replacement. I hope this helps others who may encounter this issue.
  11. Hi all. I can confirm that it was indeed fuse 63 (thankfully) and I can also confirm that it is a bit of a pain to get to, but with the help of a pair of long nose pliers, I was able to do the job in about 15 minutes. I can now use my rear doors again. 🙂
  12. UPDATE. I've not had chance to check the fuse yet as it'll likely take a bit of time to do. I have seen elsewhere that the Siemens control box in the drivers footwell could be the culprit. When I press the fob buttons I can hear clicks from the unit. It has five plugs into it. Unplugging the first one kills the interior lights and footwell lights. Plugging it back in made the unit click again which makes me think it is the fuse. I didn't want to unplug the rest in case something bad happened, I need the car for work tomorrow. I'll have a go at getting to the fuse when I get home tomorrow.
  13. Hi all. The central locking on my car suddenly stopped working last night. None of the buttons on the key fob work, neither does the boot button. First thing I did was replace the fob battery but still no joy. My biggest problem right now is that the rear doors are deadlocked and I can't open them. Is this most likely the fuse then? I know it's located on the rear of the fuse box which looks like a pain to get to. I could remove fuse 34 as that's for the power sunroof which I don't have and replace the (hopefully) blown one. Has anyone here had the same issue, and if so, how easy or hard is it to get to? Thanks.
  14. For what it's worth, the only time I've experienced this was with my old 1968 Mark 1 Escort. It did it whether hot or cold. It could be solenoid or starter, or even both, however unlikely. I replaced the solenoid, but it continued. I replaced the starter motor which sorted it, due to missing teeth on the old one. I had to bump start the car on a few occasions beforehand. It would lock as well. The starter would lock onto the flywheel, and I'd have to rock it free, which is harder than it sounds, and can potentially lose even more teeth. I've done the screwdriver across the solenoid and everything. However, that was a car that's almost my age 😂 Wish I still had it.
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