rhyds

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content Count

    114
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About rhyds

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Rhyds
  • Ford Model
    Focus MK2.5 1.8 Zetec
  • Ford Year
    2010
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Gwynedd

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Ever since I bought it, my 1.8 Duratec HE MK2.5 has been a little jerky/hesitant at low speeds e.g. pulling away and pottering around town. Its as if the throttle was "snapping" open on anything other than feather-light application and making you feel like a learner again! It seems to get better as it warms up but you end up having to use much more clutch slip than you think if you want to drive smoothly at low speed. I've given the throttle body a good clean and a squirt of WD-40 for lube (in case it was sticking), changed the plugs and air filter and generally serviced the car well over the last year and a bit I've had it, but the car's got no better (or worse). The only odd thing I found was that the throttle body didn't snap shut under spring return, but stopped a few MM short but could easily be pushed to fully shut. Are there any checks I can do using Forscan or similar to check if the throttle pedal is giving the correct data in to the ECU and to check if the throttle body is working correctly, or is this how they seem to be normally?
  2. Thanks for the advice everyone. I had a feeling it couldn't be that simple!
  3. My MK2.5 Zetec only has front electric windows (which isn't a problem). However I'd like to use the remote opening/closing feature via the keyfob if possible. My main questions are: 1: Will the GEM throw up a code if I try and enable this feature with front windows only fitted? 2: How do I enable this in Forscan?
  4. My MK2.5 is in pretty solid condition and I'd like to keep it that way. Are there any specific areas I should be checking and rustproofing to keep the bodywork in good condition?
  5. Fitting rear drums is understandable cost-cutting as on most cars you don't really need that much braking force at the back and the driver will probably never notice. Changing the entire rear suspension for something considerably inferior is IMO a step too far. I've not driven any of the new MK4s but our MK3 1.5 TDCI pool cars handle and ride very well while my folks' MK7 Fiesta on a rear beam just doesn't...
  6. You're looking for something like the following examples. These are general examples but should make sense once you compare what you have on the car. The MK7 fiesta torsion bar setup looks like this: Notice the long single tube across the car. The idea is that tube/beam twists under use giving some measure of independent movement but without the expense of a proper independent suspension setup This is the MK3 Focus independent rear suspension: Notice how each side of the rear suspension has a top and bottom arm and its own pivot point. On this setup each wheel can move independently of the other (anti-roll bar aside). If you're still stuck try taking a photo from underneath the car and we'll have a go
  7. Was the "new" bulb actually a decent new bulb or a random spare you had lying around? One way to definitively prove the bulb would be to swap them Driver-to-Passenger side and see if the fault moves with the bulb or not. As for tapping the unit, I've seen this fix faulty bulbs before, but the only other thing I can think of is that the electrical connector on the back of the bulb isn't seating correctly, or the bulb itself isn't seating correctly and the "tap" is making it do that. As Tekman says check the connector plug for any damage/melting and then gently clean it up with electrical contact cleaner not WD40 (if you've not got contact cleaner then vinegar can clean up copper/copper oxide at a push).
  8. Thanks for the confirmation. The car seems a bit better with its non-knackered front arms and correct rear toe!
  9. Following on from having my lower arms replaced I had the car popped on a 4-wheel alignment rig to check everything was good. In what was described as "shocking" even the rear toe adjustment bolts moved. However, as can be seen in the pic the rear camber is getting a bit close to the edge of what's acceptable. Can anyone tell me which arm/bush/link controls the rear camber? I assume its not adjustable and I'd have to replace said part on both sides to bring everything back towards the centre?
  10. Thanks. I usually go for decent stuff like Lemforder/Delphi so that sounds like an option.
  11. Well my Focus has picked up an advisory for its front lower suspension arm bushes (on both sides) and the tester has suggested changing them pretty soon. From what I'm told the easiest way to tackle the job is to replace the whole arm complete with bushes and ball joint, and that the whole ensemble should just bolt in. What I'm unsure about is the following: 1: The online parts sellers have two arms listed, 18mm and 21mm. I'm told this refers to the ball joint pin diameter. Is there any way of finding this size out before pulling the suspension apart? 2: There's a wide range of brands and prices, from ECP Starline at around £80 a side pre discount to GSF "Premium" at over £200 a side pre discount. I'd like to fit a decent quality part to the car as its a long term keeper, can anyone suggest a decent brand or supplier for these parts?
  12. Thanks for the info. Unfortunately where I live the AA/RAC response times are measured in days not hours, so I'll need to keep some kind of spare in it! As for the carpets and inserts it sounds like the MK1 full size kit I had in my old car, so it looks like a scrapyard trip is in order.
  13. Thanks for the info. Out of interest are Mondeo 5-stud 16" steels the same as Focus mk2 ones? Also what width are the standard steels with 205/55/16s? 6J?