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About rhyds

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  • Ford Model
    Focus MK2.5 1.8 Zetec
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location

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  1. My MK2.5 is in pretty solid condition and I'd like to keep it that way. Are there any specific areas I should be checking and rustproofing to keep the bodywork in good condition?
  2. Fitting rear drums is understandable cost-cutting as on most cars you don't really need that much braking force at the back and the driver will probably never notice. Changing the entire rear suspension for something considerably inferior is IMO a step too far. I've not driven any of the new MK4s but our MK3 1.5 TDCI pool cars handle and ride very well while my folks' MK7 Fiesta on a rear beam just doesn't...
  3. You're looking for something like the following examples. These are general examples but should make sense once you compare what you have on the car. The MK7 fiesta torsion bar setup looks like this: Notice the long single tube across the car. The idea is that tube/beam twists under use giving some measure of independent movement but without the expense of a proper independent suspension setup This is the MK3 Focus independent rear suspension: Notice how each side of the rear suspension has a top and bottom arm and its own pivot point. On this setup each wheel can move independently of the other (anti-roll bar aside). If you're still stuck try taking a photo from underneath the car and we'll have a go
  4. Was the "new" bulb actually a decent new bulb or a random spare you had lying around? One way to definitively prove the bulb would be to swap them Driver-to-Passenger side and see if the fault moves with the bulb or not. As for tapping the unit, I've seen this fix faulty bulbs before, but the only other thing I can think of is that the electrical connector on the back of the bulb isn't seating correctly, or the bulb itself isn't seating correctly and the "tap" is making it do that. As Tekman says check the connector plug for any damage/melting and then gently clean it up with electrical contact cleaner not WD40 (if you've not got contact cleaner then vinegar can clean up copper/copper oxide at a push).
  5. Thanks for the confirmation. The car seems a bit better with its non-knackered front arms and correct rear toe!
  6. Following on from having my lower arms replaced I had the car popped on a 4-wheel alignment rig to check everything was good. In what was described as "shocking" even the rear toe adjustment bolts moved. However, as can be seen in the pic the rear camber is getting a bit close to the edge of what's acceptable. Can anyone tell me which arm/bush/link controls the rear camber? I assume its not adjustable and I'd have to replace said part on both sides to bring everything back towards the centre?
  7. Thanks. I usually go for decent stuff like Lemforder/Delphi so that sounds like an option.
  8. Well my Focus has picked up an advisory for its front lower suspension arm bushes (on both sides) and the tester has suggested changing them pretty soon. From what I'm told the easiest way to tackle the job is to replace the whole arm complete with bushes and ball joint, and that the whole ensemble should just bolt in. What I'm unsure about is the following: 1: The online parts sellers have two arms listed, 18mm and 21mm. I'm told this refers to the ball joint pin diameter. Is there any way of finding this size out before pulling the suspension apart? 2: There's a wide range of brands and prices, from ECP Starline at around £80 a side pre discount to GSF "Premium" at over £200 a side pre discount. I'd like to fit a decent quality part to the car as its a long term keeper, can anyone suggest a decent brand or supplier for these parts?
  9. Thanks for the info. Unfortunately where I live the AA/RAC response times are measured in days not hours, so I'll need to keep some kind of spare in it! As for the carpets and inserts it sounds like the MK1 full size kit I had in my old car, so it looks like a scrapyard trip is in order.
  10. Thanks for the info. Out of interest are Mondeo 5-stud 16" steels the same as Focus mk2 ones? Also what width are the standard steels with 205/55/16s? 6J?
  11. Silly question: did the mk2.5 have a full size spare wheel as an option? If so, was this a proper full size rim (205 wide 16")?
  12. Back in the old Zetec engine days using 10w-40 caused the hydraulic tappets to stick, but IIRC that particular issue won't affect Duratecs. Personally I'd be wary of using the wrong oil in a modern, close tolerance engine.
  13. The simplest way to test is to hold the heated rear window switch down while turning the ignition on. This should put the GEM in to diagnostic mode and any button press should cause the indicators to flash and a bleep to sound. More info here: https://www.fordwiki.co.uk/index.php/GEM_Module_Self_Diagnostics
  14. Heating oil isn't red diesel though. Its a different grade of fuel generally designed to be burned in boilers and vapourising stoves. I'd not run a two cylinder dumper truck on the stuff!