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Fordster1 last won the day on April 10 2018

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About Fordster1

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    Settling In Well

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    Focus 1.6 TDCI
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  1. So, I have continuity from the main abs connector block to all 4 sensors. There's no obd2 connector, it's old skool diagnostics connector in the engine bay. Can anyone tell me the terminals I need to bridge together in this connector to read the abs fault codes in the cabin via the abs light flashing? Also, does the abs ecu unbolt off the abs pump and is it possible to just swap this ecu with one off another same pump or do you have to swap out the complete abs pump and its ecu as a complete unit? Cheers in advance :)
  2. Any help at all? 😞 would anyone have a wiring diagram like the ones linked to in the Focus forum. Are there any usual colour wires I should expect to find for the abs sensors typical to a ranger? I'm hoping to do a continuity check between the abs sensors and the main connector block at the abs pump. It'd be great if I could find a diagram labeling what pins are which sensor etc... Anything at all :)
  3. I'm troubleshooting an abs light on problem and am just wondering where the big block connector is, probably on the abs pump and how accessible it is to test its pins for continuity back to the abs sensors? Can anyone tell me the colours of the wires / numbers of the pins etc.? Also, is it correct a 2006 mk2 2.5L Ranger has only 3 abs sensors, 2 at front wheels and 1 on the rear axle? If anyone has a pic of the wiring diagram for the abs sensors I'd be most grateful :)
  4. Anyone able to inform me of a good spot to get a wire through from the car out into the engine bay, any easily accessible existing grommets or such?
  5. Ok, them complete wiring diagrams linked to in the thread link below are absolutely class, fair play to the lads posting them up. As far as I can make out, for a 4dr mk2 the rear lamp wires are: Pass Side Parking = Orange / White Brake = Black / Green Indicator = Blue Drivers Side Parking = Orange Indicator = Blue / Red Can anyone tell me if I require the canbus bypass relay? Also, can anyone tell me if the brake and tail lights share the bulb like with VW's where if the brake bulb goes the tail compensates for it, therefore you only need either the tail or the brake wire into the relay. Is the Focus the same or do they not have this bulb/wire sharing feature?
  6. Hey folks, I'm gonna be wiring up a tow bar on a Mk2 2010 focus hatch, would anyone be able to tell me the colours of the wires at the rear lights for the indicators, parking lights and brakes. Also, do I need a canbus bypass relay for this car, I got 1 but not sure I need it? It's just the normal tow bar plug I'm fitting, not the caravan plug with it's extra wires / features. I'm based in ireland too so don't need a indicator buzzer for the MOT, at least I think that's required for the Mot from reading some threads on here in my search. I see a link to some wiring diagrams in a thread on this forum section, I'll have a look in there again for the wiring colours but if someone could confirm it'd be great. Or perhaps there's a guide to fitting a tow bar on the forum, I'll have a gander in there now too.
  7. The car dash thinks the bonnet is open when it's not and the alarm goes off. Is the bonnet sensor integrated with the latch on the Mk3, does the whole latch have to be replaced? Can the sensor be bypassed by unplugging the connector and joining the wires together; or same thing by bridging the connector plug terminals with a bit of wire?
  8. Does the map sensor on these leave a fault code? We cleaned the map sensor and seemed to help for a couple weeks, then started doing it's thing again, cleaned it again and was ok for a week or so, cleaned it again and it made no difference this 3rd time. Also, does the crank and fuel rail sensor leave codes on these transits? A cog with exclamation mark symbol flashed up on the dash a couple times the last time it went into it's limp no power mode thing but didn't stay on.
  9. I don't think this transit has a Dpf from factory? Oil level is fine though.
  10. Mate's transit is suffering from a limp mode type thing where it won't rev over 3000 rpm when it goes into this state. It can be made to happen when pushing on like to over-take for example, and it can be got out of this state by pushing the throttle pedal up and down a few times quickly where it starts to do a kangaroo effect and then clears and is ok again. Does the fact it can be cleared by doing the throttle thing above rule out an electrical issue or sensor issue? I seen a Focus before with no power and it was because on that engine because the glow plugs were gone the Ecu put it in limp mode, there was a glow plug fault code on this transit, could it be the glow plugs causing this issue? There are no fault codes at the min, there was a glow plug fault code and Egr code, the transit was mapped and the Egr was mapped out, and the mapper seems to have mapped out all codes as none show up now at all, not even the glow plug one and one that related to the locks and no enine management light comes on. He's in the process of getting the original map back on and is going to fit a new Egr valve and hopefully with it back to standard there might be codes to help fix it. Fuel filter has been changed and made no difference, also a new MAF sensor was fitted and the MAP sensor was cleaned too, none of this seems to have made any difference. I'd appreciate some help troubleshooting this issue :)
  11. The traction control and abs lights are on the whole time on my mates 2009 Transit 350. I scanned it with FordScan and it showed a fault relating to the rear passenger abs sensor, I forget the exact wording of the error. We checked the wiring visually and nothing obvious found and then cleaned and reconnected and no change. Also checked the hub abs ring which seemed perfect. Then fitted a new abs sensor and drove it in case it needs to go over 5mph to reset like some cars but lights stayed on dash, then disconnected battery for over 20mins to reset Ecu adn still no change. Do fords need the abs / traction lights reset via a diagnostics like FordScan after replacing a sensor or should the lights just go out once it detects a proper reading from a new sensor? I'm not sure how to use the live data feature of FordScan where you can drive and see what each of the 4 abs sensors are doing? What's the best way to check the wiring to an abs sensor via a multimeter or FordScan, etc...? Cheers in advance :)
  12. @TDCi-Peter - Its funny you mention the Air-Con, I noticed that error code myself and had to laugh as my car doesn't actually have air-con. I thought it funny as the whole point of me doing all this Ecu swapping etc was to get the engine management light off due to the wrong Ecu that was fitted looking for features the car didn't actually have, as we know. And, then the first code I see when I eventually got ForScan working is relating to something I don't have. :P It appears the replacement Ecu I bought came from a car with air-con and I still have errors relating to stuff I don't have, lol . Luckily the a/c isn't an engine management light or any other light issue :) Cheers to all that replied on this thread, and my other sub-threads all relating to this overall problem pretty much, Its a great forum ye have here, some very knowledgeable folk and very helpful folk too. I hope I can help other members in future, I'm sure the info in this thread will help others with similar issues.
  13. Ok, it would appear I have succeeded in getting the air bag light off :):) It would also appear I'm a muppet and caused the problem in the first place but we live and learn :P I took the steering covers back off and disconnect every connector I had previously disconnected when doing the lock, I also checked the wire loom and the connectors further under the floor well / base of steering column etc as suggested, all seemed ok. I then took a further look at the air bag connectors between the air bag unit and steering wheel and I pushed the plastic unit / clock spring unit I had previously removed the 2 screws from and slid a very small amount up / down the steering column previously when trying to create more room to remove the lock assembly. Anyway, whilst looking / pushing this again now, I realised it could be pushed up more towards into the air bag and I could see the big black wide connector going in further so it seems I didn't have that unit pushed back in fully, however I had its 2 screws lined up and in their holes. I plugged everything back in and started the car and the air bag light didn't come back on. Happy days :D In my below pics the gold coloured bolt hole you can just see in the pic is the bolts holes for the plastic unit I refer to. Also the pics just show the big wide connector that wasn't allowed to be pushed home fully. At least, this appears to have been the problem, I'll drive it during the week and hopefully the light will remain off.
  14. I cleared the codes and brought the car for a spin and then read the codes again to see what came back. The air bag 1934 didn't clear at all though, came back straight away. Is there a way to clear all the codes in 1 go, or do you have to do them individually and go through the whole process of flicking the Ms / Hs switch and cycling the ignition off and back on as prompted for every code? I read the codes when I cam back form a little 5 min spin and the picture below is of the codes that were found now, sorry for the bad quality pic, my screen is damaged a little in that area, you can just make out the yellow triangle indicating a fault listed under RCM. I'm going to remove all the plastic covers from around the steering wheel and double check for loose connectors / crushed wires etc, as suggested and see if I come across anything.
  15. I printed out some of them Pdf guides to using ForScan and ran through the demo mode suggested etc and made some headway, cheers again for the help lads. So I managed to get the cable and ForScan connecting with my Focus and here's the results in the below 3 pictures. A few codes show up, I only looked deeper into the Restraints System ones though as its the air bag light I'm trying to extinguish off the dash. There are 2 fault codes under the Restrains, 1 is" B138 - Battery Voltage Low" , seems to be an old code relating to a low battery voltage (Car battery was dying this 3 months and I have since replaced it 2 weeks ago). The other code which seems to relate directly to my problem is B1934 - Air Bag Inflator Circuit Resist. Low on Squib - Loop 1, Front Driver Side. "Malfunction Indicator Lamp is on for this DTC". It lists "Possible causes as: Front Drivers Air Bag Failure: Check for: - Open circuit - Short to Battery / Ground - Switch Fault - Module Fault " So, should I try resetting all the codes under every module first and check for codes again after a short drive and see if the Air bag light stays off if it will actually go off after clearing the codes? Is the Squib the spirally thing from the air bag that moves around with the steering wheel as you turn it? I suppose it would appear that this fault code is directly linked to me disturbing the drivers air bag when trying to remove the ignition lock assembly, however, I'll just remind us that I didn't actually remove the air bag or disconnect any of the air bag connectors, however I did slide the "clockspring unit" or stalk connector thing up / down a little on the steering wheel when trying to create more room to remove the lock. Or is my "work" around the air bag area likely to be coincidence that the air bag light is now on, does the New Ecu need to be reconfigured to the air bag system somehow? I'm not sure what way to proceed from here?