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About nicam49

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    Too much time on the boards

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  1. Good question! There's also one in the central fusebox F19 15amps to consider. See pic
  2. Erm, no but if you email 'em (Steve Elmer) he'll advise. I do know there's an Android version, and you have to pay a modest amount for the Forscan on that. In the meantime why not test the sensors with a multimeter?
  3. What do you mean by " I The passenger side front door won't lock or unlock either directly with key or fob " Does your passenger door have a slot for a key?
  4. Hi, have you considered treating it to a gbox oil change?
  5. You need to buy yourself a decent code reader which will tell you which wheel sensor is faulty. Or you could get a multimeter and disconnect each sensor in turn and measure their resistance. (800-2000 Ohms is good) However, a code reader is an investment if you've a mk3. Can I recommend one of the best for Fords is from Tunnelrat electronics, check 'em out on the interweb. Some generic code readers DON'T pick up all Ford car fault codes, but Tunnelrat ones running Forscan software (which is always being updated) is excellent. It's no good guessing, so that's why you need a code reader
  6. Ford paint codes change depending on year and model, so a 66 for one particular year and model, might not be Stardust Silver for another year and model. Oh, btw, my service book has written in it by the original dealership that the car is GREEN, but its actually Stardust Silver. When I bought the car I had to get the V5 altered. What does it say on your V5?
  7. Unclipped switch from lever. Voltage test between switch and ground gives about 5V. Don't think thats right. Need to measure resistance from one side of switch to chassis rather than voltage. Other side of switch should go to one of the modules. Question:if you disconnect the switch, does the light go out?
  8. Yeah, understood! I was referring to the dash bulb. I've looked and can't see a guide to getting at the dash bulbs out. Further searching now makes me think that all the bulbs are leds! So, the only half-useful suggestion I've got is that you follow this guide from the fordwiki that explains how to enter the dashboard self-test mode, where one of the tests SHOULD be to illuminate all of the bulbs, that way you will be able to see how bright the indicator bulb is compared with the other side. That's as far as I can help...sorry! Here's the guide: https://www.fordwiki.co.uk/index
  9. Yeah, it's so annoying that people don't bother to update their OPs
  10. Was the original cam sensor black then? Do the dash lights for the EML and glowplugs light up when you 1st turn the key? Some dodgy sellers blank the lights so they don't show to indicate a fault. (they're leds so it's not a case removing a bulb)
  11. 1st thing is to find out how to change the bulb. If you're not handy with that sort of thing, then it's a (expensive) trip to the garage as it's probably a full hour labour.
  12. What colour is the cam sensor? Black ones are dodgy, the replacement grey ones are OK. I think cam and crank sensor faults are least likely to throw up codes. The mk3 tdci is a mature product, I think all known problems have been discovered by now. If you don't get any ideas from this forum, try asking on talkford.com as it has an active mk3 section.
  13. Re readers, the one you use with Forscan you can monitor live data too. Did you try disconnecting the injectors in turn? Did it run fine before you did the work (sorry, had to ask...)
  14. Hmm sounds like a bit of a 'mare having to remove the common rail to change the gps. 😞 if you had a working code reader it would tell you if an injector isn't connected properly.. why not invest in a good budget one from tunnelrat electronics approx £20, you download Forscan to run on a laptop, or they do an Android version too. If you disconnect each injector in turn, is there one that makes no difference to the engine when you pull the plug?... thats where I'd start.
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