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About nicam49

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  1. If you know the reg, have a look at the mot history on the DVLA website
  2. For slide pins Ford do a silicon lube, but I think any silicon would do, just don't use mineral-based lube 'cos of the rubber sleeve on one of the pins (the lower one) The mineral oil dissolves the rubber sleeve and jams up the caliper action... you end up with unevenly worn brake pads. I always thought that red rubber grease was to lube the piston and inside of the rubber seal on the calipers. Just remembered, I bought some caliper rebuild kits from Bigg Redd, and the slide pin lube they supplied was silicon. On the other hand, they didn't supply any red rubber grease but my local friendly independant car shop sold me a blob for 50p
  3. It's not there as a lube! It's there to prevent disk squeal. Repeat:it's NOT intended as a lube! In case I've not made myself clear, DON'T put grease on the rear of your pads or on the parts of the pads that are on contact with the caliper frame.
  4. Copper grease is perfectly fine to use on the back of the pads and on the piston mating surfaces, also on the pad's ears. But a big no-no on the pins. If one of the pins also has a rubber bush on it (called anti-vibration bush) then mineral grease will make it swell up and become sticky which will cause the caliper action to jam up. My Bosch calipers have these, not sure about yours. If when you strip them down again, you find that yours have this bush then you can get replacements from Bigg Redd. As said above, only lube the pins with silicon grease. Also, yes, best practice is to clean everything up with wire brush when changing disks and pads. Make sure to get rid of all the copper grease from where the pins go. Degrease with meths or something similar. Let us know how you get on!
  5. At least you had a proper job done and have peace of mind with having had the cambelt done at the same time. Now to enjoy that mota!
  6. I had no idea that there are 2 versions for the mk3. The stat works by melting wax at the target temperature and the spring then operates the piston, opening the stat. No electrical signal is required. In future, why not go on, type in your vin, then you will be able to see the part numbers (finis codes) of the parts that are correct for your car. If yours isn't a genuine Ford part, then be aware that some pattern parts don't have a sufficiently thick gasket supplied with them. A genuine Ford gasket is available seperately. Are you sure your stat is faulty? Tried putting it in a pan of hot water then heating it up to see if it opens? - then let it cool to see if it closes again.
  7. Price depends if its got a current mot. Could be rotten underneath.
  8. If you're still stuck, try asking in the Mondeo mk1/2 forum on
  9. There's a fair bit of oil on the hose. There's your clue right there! Shouldn't be ANY on the outside. Check the hose clamps and look for splits in the pipes... they're often v difficult to detect, remember, as the rubber is v. thick and the split only tends up under boost pressure.
  10. Of you want a complete parts breakdown, then you want Enter you car's vin for specific info
  11. Saw an episode of Midsomer Murders from series 4 last week, and Tom and Troy were driving about in a mk2.
  12. No need to heat it, just use a windy gun on it. (and an impact socket)
  13. Yeah, how do they get away with it when it's supposed to be legally binding. Do ebay ever pursue non-payers to make an example of them?
  14. I use those ice hockey pucks available on ebay. They're about an inch thick and last for a few operations before starting to split. You can buy them with or without being slotted, I've found on the slotted ones that the slot needs to be widened to fit on the Mondeo sills.