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About nicam49

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    Too much time on the boards

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  1. Front right and rear left are on one brake circuit, and front left and rear right are on the other brake circuit. So if a hydraulic pipe fractures you've still got some braking.power.
  2. have you had the rocker cover off to check if there's any damaged/cracked rocker assemblies?
  3. Hi, would you consider trying a new cylinder head instead. A bit strange cylinder #2 is as low as that. But doesn't explain why it doesn't fire
  4. Well, some of those codes might be historic as there's no date stamp on them, so clear them and see which ones come back
  5. OK, try and find the fuse for the glowplugs and remove it. That way you'll get more cranking amps to the starter motor, and the battery won't run down so quickly. You don't need the glowplugs to start it. But you do need a minimum rpm before the ecu permits the engine to start. (200ish rpm) You need to know if the glowplugs are being triggered. You've already found you have fuel on the rail. I bought a set of noid lamps which you plug into the injector socket, and they flash dimly.... they look like normal flashlight bulbs in a holder! I was a bit disappointed how low-tech they are. Did you buy a multimeter? They were on offer at Aldi a few weeks ago for a tenner...... what about a code reader...have you tried monitoring live data, frp and rpm whilst cranking?
  6. Hi, have you tried clearing the error codes then seeing which one(s) return?
  7. Hi, you were getting good frp BEFORE you changed the filter and now you're not. How about checking if the O sealing rings on the pipe connectors are intact or have somehow been dislodged or damaged. You seen this? Reading some of the comments it's NOT a one-off!
  8. Time to search the Internet then. Can I suggest you raise a thread on the as you've had no other suggestions on this one. I'm not really familiar with the mk4 tdci myself, only the mk3, which uses a Delphi system so is a bit different to the mk4. Good luck 🤞
  9. Re your idea about 'ruining' a valve.... that's def worth pursuing 'cos you've always got to ask yourself "what's changed" and if you were getting 230bar + before changing the filter, and you've put the old filter back, could it either be this bleed valve or something in the area... Good thinking.
  10. Re testing injectors to see if they're firing: one connector of an injector will be at +12v and the other side will fluctuate while being fired, but it's too quick for the meter to respond, so you might see a change of 0.5 volts maybe.
  11. Found it! Wasn't youtube but something else.. you may as well see it:
  12. Wooh! Have you got a magnetic compass? You can use them to check if the injectors are triggering, tho' if you've only got low fuel rail pressure then they won't be. Still, give it a go... I'll try to post up the YouTube vid I saw it on. In the meantime I did a Google search and found this: When the fuel filter is changed apparently there is a small bleed screw to allow air to be removed from the fuel system. The fuel pipe adjacent to the screw had an almost invisible split in it: enough to suck air in under pressure,
  13. If you loosen a feed pipe on an injector, and crank, are you getting any diesel coming out? (cover the connection with a cloth in case it spurts out)
  14. Hi, inlet metering valve/ fuel metering valve, on the back of the fuel pump Oh, I'm guessing you referred to it as the fuel regulator valve. You got a multimeter you can use to check if you've got any sort of resistance reading from the unplugged plug to chassis. If you've a break in the wiring the IMV might stay shut! (I've recalled that I think the mk4 IMV works opposite way to the mk3, on which I'm basing my advice on) and that hpfp pressure test I told you about might not work with IMV disconnected. Hoping that Tom on the forum can clarify that.... 🤔