nicam49

Budding Enthusiast
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About nicam49

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Nick
  • Ford Model
    Mondeo
  • Ford Year
    2002
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Leicestershire

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  1. That's good at least. You got a multimeter? Wondering if you can test a) the relay, and b) the connectors on the heated seats to see if there's voltage on them, c) the resistance of the heating elements, and d) test the 2 fuses to see if they're good (continuity) rather than just a visual check. I doubt that the grey relay is a dummy one, but interesting that it's not black. I googled the finis code and they're all black ones so far... Also, I wonder if the supply return (on the seats) is a ground... does there seem to be a ground /earth connection on the seats? Also gave a read of this thread, see if it applies to yours. https://talkford.com/community/topic/77603-mk3-adding-switches/
  2. Those black squares on the extreme top left are relays. The one you need MIGHT be K41 (just been looking on Talkford forum). 4th down on lhs. Have you got something in that position.? Did you read that link? "If you have fitted heated seats and switch to your Mk3 Facelift Mondeo, but can't get the seats to warm up, you may need a relay which fits into a socket clipped to the rear of the interior fusebox. The FINIS code is 1226542, and it's called an Ignition Control Relay 2. It is a 4-pin relay in black."
  3. I think this link has the solution https://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_158533230633411&key=65c672252db3eb37384124aed9c37325&libId=k8ahu9z4010112g3000MAc1kdlnhw&loc=https%3A%2F%2Ftalkford.com%2Fcommunity%2Ftopic%2F256330-heated-seats-relay-location%2F&v=1&opt=true&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fordwiki.co.uk%2Findex.php%3Ftitle%3DHeated_Seats_Relay_-_Facelift&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&title=Heated seats relay location - Interior %2F Exterior (Mk3 Mondeo) - TalkFord.com&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fordwiki....elay_-_Facelift
  4. Thnking about it, there MUST be a relay to switch the heavy current on, else the switches will soon burn out. But no mention of it in that fusebox link.
  5. nicam49

    Rust!

    I remember an edition of Wheeler Dealers where they managed to find a rust-free Integrale to restore. Nice car!
  6. Does this help at all? https://talkford.com/community/topic/277826-heatedcooled-seats/
  7. nicam49

    Rust!

    There's a YouTube of an X-Type Jag that looks pretty decent till you see a shot of the underneath. It's fully rotten both lengths of the sills.
  8. https://www.fordwiki.co.uk/index.php/Fuse_%26_Relay_Information There's a fuse in the engine bay fusebox (F5) , but also a fuse in the glove box fusebox too (F83) But no mention of a relay. Also, have a look at the fuse you've fitted to see if it hasn't blown.
  9. Sounds like you need to remove the entire handbrake first. There won't be anything repairable in it, (there never is) time to source a replacement? 🤔
  10. Sorry, don't know, but how about comparing the working headlamp wiring voltages as will be same colours utilised?
  11. Your mechanic should have advised you to read the error codes rather than just guessing it could be an expense component like that. Because too few mechanics are equipped with superhero powers like X-ray vision, that's what the error codes are for; to give a clue why the car's computer has set the fault light flashing. So, for under £20 you can buy a dependable code reader from tunnelrat electronics which will save you loads of money time after time. For instance, a garage might charge you £50 + vat to read your error codes! (every time) Tunnelrat do various readers, mine interfaces with my Windows laptop, other versions use Bluetooth to your phone.... tunnelrat are UK based and will advise you if you email them... or another forum member might advise. Once you've got your reader, download a software called Forscan. Windows version is free, I THINK the Android version you pay a small amount for. 🤔 Anyway, bottom line is get your codes read, then at least we'll know why your car's computer (ECU) is upset. With ref. to Kevin's reply above, its most unlikely to be the head gasket on a TDCi, as they're known to be very resilient.
  12. Note that you'll need the female version of the torx socket to fit them, also you might find they come c/w abs sensors (mine did)
  13. Be quick that's a great deal! I fitted SKF rear hubs/bearings to my mk3 Mondy 10 years ago now, still going strong despite my high mileage.
  14. In that case, it is likely to be something that is COMMON to all leds, like something in the supply or return.... do the plugs/sockets all look OK.... any iffy looking soldering.. discoloration due to overheating?
  15. Buy yourself a sniffer test kit, this will detect exhaust gasses in the coolant, and will tell you if you've got a leaking CHG, (cylinder head gasket) you don't say what engine you've got, but the test is not as positive on a diesel as on a petrol engine due to the different fuel (apparently). The test kit itself is £20 ish, but most garages should have one anyway. Look on youtube for how to use one.