siggy_7

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content Count

    23
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About siggy_7

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Chris
  • Ford Model
    Fiesta Mk7 Ecoboost
  • Ford Year
    2013
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Gloucestershire

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. With my issue, the engine pressure light started not going out instantly (think something like a 2-3s delay). I think the car was like it when I bought it, hence I didn't take action. It was like this for several thousand miles before it got to the point where I suspected an issue. Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
  2. Quite probably you have an oil pump issue. Changing the pump will solve the problem; the risk is that you may have worn other engine components badly in the process. I changed mine promptly and got away with it - you may not be so lucky. It's a judgement you need to make based on how long you've been running the car with the problem and how bad your symptoms are. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
  3. I've since had a problem caused by petrol in the oil (either injectors or high pressure fuel pump leakage) but nothing related to this issue, no. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
  4. Hi, The oil pump was about £150 from a dealer. However it sound like your daughter's car either has a different issue or if it is oil starvation then from the engine stopping/bad vibration the engine has suffered internal damage. I am sorry to say it sounds like you will need a new engine. I subsequently had a different issue which meant I needed to replace the engine on my car. I would recommend getting a second hand complete engine from a breaker (typical prices for a low mileage unit were about £1250 when I bought mine, I think the company I used was Engine Components Ltd who were good to deal with); a good independent garage will charge about £1,000 for fitting. It's expensive but not quite as bad as you have been quoted. An engine change can be done by a competent and well equipped home mechanic (I changed my own over a long weekend) but it is a lot of work! Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
  5. All sorted now with a second hand engine. As a warning to others in the future, if you are having issues with rich mixture that don't appear to be lambda related or your stop/start system is sometimes not cutting the engine out cleanly (ours would sometimes refuse to cut-out completely which I reckon in retrospect was due to fuel vapour getting into the combustion chamber from the sump) then I would get the fuel system checked out ASAP and inspect the engine oil for signs of petrol before it does serious damage.
  6. Ok so it seems no-one else has attempted this. In the end I tackled it myself armed with Haynes and a very helpful mate. We followed the advice in the manual and removed the engine from below, first raising the car up on axle stands supported on a platform of concrete blocks. The front of the car needs to be around 2 feet high to get the engine out and back in comfortably from below. To avoid the car being at a very high angle, I reversed it onto service ramps at the rear. In retrospect, the car could have done with being more level than it was as it was quite tricky to manoeuvre the new engine back in place (forward/back space is quite tight and it's hard to stop the engine coming into contact with the intercooler if the engine and car are at different angles). Changing it out was generally reasonably straightforward, if a lengthy process (plenty of hoses and wires to disconnect everywhere!). I would give the following advice to anyone tackling it themselves: Make a note of where the wires and hoses are routed before you remove them. It's not obvious in a couple of instances which way cables are routed around other components when you reassemble In addition to the parts listed by Haynes, I would suggest getting some cable ties including the type that have a plastic serrated stud fixing that secure onto brackets on the engine and gearbox, as I cut a number of these off to release the engine loom Check you have everything before you start. Despite verbal and written instructions along with the description of what I was doing, Ford failed to supply me with what I requested and gave me a set of CV boot clamps instead of the inner retaining clip for the left hand driveshaft Most of the hoses are easy enough to disconnect, but a trick I never knew before and shown by my mate is to break the hold by twisting the hose until it's free before pulling off the mounting barbs (this was a revelation to me!) The EVAP line is all some horrid hard plastic that seems nigh on impossible to remove from the fittings, so I just transferred the whole assembly over from one engine to the other (there are several quick release fittings to mount it to the intake hoses etc which make this job easy enough) By far the most awkward thing that caused me much irritation was the fuel line "quick disconnect" hose elbow that fits onto the high pressure fuel pump. This has four tangs that spring inwards from the inside of the elbow, and they need to be pushed outwards to slide back over a ridge on the fuel pump mounting barb. You can buy special tools for not much money online to do this job (it's an 8mm/ 5/16 hose) but access is ridiculously tight (mine had a maximum clearance of 7mm between the pump and the fitting) and the chances are you won't be able to fit a tool in there. By the time I'd sanded the tool down enough to fit, it wouldn't go in far enough to release the fitting. I eventually found out from a garage that the way to deal with this is using several angled picks (they look like dentistry tools) to force the tabs open whilst an assistant firmly pulls the elbow back. Once you know how, it's not too bad, but as this is easily accessible throughout the job definitely figure out and confirm that you cant sort this step out first before anything else! Most of it can be tackled easily enough with one person, but definitely arrange for a helper for an afternoon to help with engine removal, gearbox separation/re-attachment and engine re-installation Good luck to anyone who gives this a go. As I say although it might seem daunting if you know your way around cars it's doable. I managed it in a long weekend (probably a total of ~20 hours work including figuring out what to do at a few points and having a mate help for a good portion of that time). The car is, thankfully, now running fine.
  7. I used an EOBD interface (ELM327) from Gendan. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
  8. As per title - looking for some advice from anyone who has done an engine swap themselves. I have the Haynes manual to guide me, however it instructs you to remove the engine by lowering it from the engine bay. In a fully kitted out workshop with ramps that's easy of course, but not so much for the home mechanic. So can it be done reasonably straightforwardly by lifting the engine out instead? Or is this a non-starter?
  9. I eventually gave up on this and took it to a local independent. They have diagnosed the problem as petrol in the oil system - somehow about 6l of petrol has made its way into the oil since I last serviced 3,000 miles ago. The petrol in the oil was enriching the mixture. The most likely source is apparently the high pressure fuel pump which sits on top of the rocker cover; the garage's opinion is that if it were an injector leakage of that magnitude the engine either wouldn't run or would run very badly. The car is currently ok having had fresh petrol-free oil in it, but given the loss of lubrication it's now sounding a bit rattly and has potential turbo performance issues. So probably looking to swap out for a second-hand engine.
  10. The Fiesta has developed another issue. The symptoms are occasional lumpy running at low revs when in traffic and intermittent loss of power when accelerating with wide open throttle from low (~1.5k)RPM. Several times a fault code P2237 has been raised (O2 sensor positive current circuit/open (Bank 1 Sensor 1)), which clears and takes a while to return. The exhaust generally smells quite rich. The car has done 95,000 miles, so my first thought was a faulty pre-cat oxygen sensor. I've changed this for a new one, but things haven't improved markedly. I have run the car with a diagnostic box recording several times to try and diagnose the fault. I am convinced the issue lies somewhere in the Lambda sensor control - the issue happens on closed loop control, but not when the engine is cold (on open loop). Also, I noticed that during one test drive the engine went into open loop control (system fault), after which the issues didn't resurface during the remainder of the drive. I have a mass of data recorded from the diagnostic interface, but I can't really identify clearly what is going on. Some things that appear anomalous to me are: The loss of power is generally preceded by a large negative short term fuel trim (-25% or greater in some instances). I was led to believe that fuel trims are generally a lot smaller than this. This is happening when the accelerator is wide open. Shortly after the negative fuel trim, I can see other symptoms on the diagnostics that are being caused by the negative fuel trim (e.g. loss of intake manifold pressure, air mass flow rate etc.) The second oxygen sensor trace looks odd - not very stable, generally hovering around 0.8V but when the power loss is happening frequently dipping to around 0V. It also shows signs of large fluctuations when engine conditions and throttle position are stable. All suggestions on a postcard most welcome.
  11. I haven't done the inspection as yet, it's coming up for an oil change. Good luck with sorting yours; I understand from my local dealer this is a problem they have seen on a few cars now. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
  12. Yes, had no oil pressure problems since. The auto stop/start has a mind of its own and it's totally gutless, but neither related to the oil I suspect! Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
  13. See above comment for the amount of work involved. Mainly it's removing all the exhaust components which I found quite awkward. I would say a day is more like it than a morning, but maybe I'm a slow mechanic! Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
  14. Hi, It was a fair bit of work to get the sump off, mostly removing all the exhaust system parts. Nothing really complicated but it did take a while and you will benefit greatly from having a reasonable workshop to do it in. My first port of call would be to investigate the cam position sensor, since that is the fault showing. Unless you have secondary indicators of low oil pressure (tell-tale sound of noisy running, measurement with a gauge) your fault is probably elsewhere.
  15. I didn't much like the look of the crud either. I'm glad it's out of the oil pump pickup - couldn't see wider evidence of crud build-up. Regarding the service history, I have a few receipts for the car from the previous owners but aside from that very little. I didn't receive a service book with any stamps - I don't think they supply those any more for some reason? The last service receipt I had from before I bought the car was at 74,500 miles done at a Ford dealer (about 3k before I bought it and gave it a full service). It was listed as an "Interim service check" where a few faults were rectified. I can't see any evidence of regular servicing on the bill - no oil etc. Curiously though, the garage lists the next service due on this invoice at 87k. I'm planning on changing the cam belt a good while before it's due at 150,000 - probably more like 120,000 when I'm intending to do it. It looks like a very involved job unfortunately. What are other people's views on belt change frequency?