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DaveT70

True Ford Enthusiast
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Everything posted by DaveT70

  1. That looks like a bulb holder for footwell lamps. Airbag light constantly on on cluster? Pull seats fully forward, disconnect battery, disconnect and reconnect plugs under seats about 3 times, to clean contacts.
  2. Agreed. Just to add, you would want a bluetooth(android) wi-fi (IOS) ELM327 and an app like torque pro and a phone connected to it to display at all times
  3. The OBDLink EX is very good TBH. Make sure you research on the Forscan forums for the correct settings for your lead. Make sure all the boxes for firmware are green Follow the instructions for updating. CONNECT A BATTERY CHARGER to the battery positive and the body earth
  4. Hi, You've bought a lemon by the sounds of it, perhaps a test drive would've helped. We have a 2018 (68) ST-Line-X on 17" wheels and a 2019 Vignale, also on 17" wheels, both 1.0 100PS automatics, the ride is not an issue. Fuel economy, around town on both, is around 29 MPG up to 45MPG on a run, not that much worse than a manual. I'll try and answer/advise on each of your issues: 1: It's not the best, in most applications (EcoSport & Focus MK3.5 125PS), but in the Fiesta @100PS it's actually quite good, but has some characteristic issues, which are: Torque converter slip in first and second gear, then torque converter lock up in 3,4,5,& 6. Takes some getting used to. The gearbox has a warm up strategy that creates even more slip when cold to prevent damage to the internals, this should last no more than 5 miles, if you're only doing short journeys then it's never going to warm up. Ask Ford if there are software updates for the PCM (The PCM & TCM are combined on these) this may help a bit. The transmission has an adaptive shifting learning strategy which adapts to the driver's driving style, it's still adapted to the previous 20,000 miles driver, ask Ford to reset the adaptive shift strategy in the transmission so it can adapt to your driving style. 2: Neither of ours rattle. Has it had a bad bump and all the trim has been re-fitted poorly? If the seat is creaking, grease all the visible moving parts. 3: A manual isn't much better, especially around town, try using Super Unleaded, it does help (TESCO 99 is best) 4: Probably never had the software updated. Search Ford Sync updates UK and follow instructions on Ford site to update software. Perform a master reset and then in settings turn OFF Wi-Fi and turn OFF automatic updates 5: Ensure tyre pressures are correct 34 PSi Front and 28 PSi Rear 6: Can't help with that other than do not press the throttle when starting the engine, the PCM does that for you. Ensure air cleaner is clean and not damp 7: If the warning light isn't on then there aren't any issues, see advice above 8: ABSOLUTELY 9: Ford UK CRC are usually quite good, if you're nice to them
  5. Hi, Try asking the same question on the Kuga, Mondeo and Galaxy forums as it's the same engine transmission set up. Slip on warm up is quite normal as the transmission is protecting itself from damage until the fluid is warm, it should last no more than 5 miles (8KM). It's the torque convertor slipping, not the clutches. Is the quality of Diesel fuel in your country any good? Poor quality Diesel can affect running conditions and NVH performance, especially at idle. I would be tempted to get the fluid level and condition checked in the transmission and change if necessary. I would be tempted to check the engine oil is of the correct grade and change if necessary. I would try different Diesel fuel brands and grades to see if that helps. I would ask your local Ford dealer to update the software in the PCM and TCM and to reset the adaptive learning strategy in the TCM
  6. They're not cornering lights, they're only on Xenon's. These are high beam and should only be on if you pull the indicator stalk back and the blue symbol is on on the instrument cluster.
  7. Yeah, you have some damaged/corroded wiring somewhere or a damaged/corroded or loose earth point. Check every electrical connection and earth point first.
  8. Ha Ha, they do remap ones as well and gearbox remap ones for autos LOL. They have a small board inside which powers flashing LEDs from the 12v feed in the OBD port and nothing else. Almost as much of a rip off as Racechips, they're worse though, they're £300+ and just a 50p resistor
  9. I have a feeling its 2010 or 2011 is the cut of point, I could be wrong
  10. Is it a late MK2 or and early MK3?
  11. You're going to have to go through the basics before asking on here. Especially "It won't start"??? Has it got fuel? Has it got an engine? BUT, If the immobiliser light is on then the cluster needs re-soldering or there is a BCM fault. Give the top of the dashboard above cluster a gentle bang and try again
  12. There's a cut off point for where (in model years) Forscan can programme keys, you may have to ask on the Forums before you start the process.
  13. 2nd hand instrument clusters aren't stupidly expensive, but, you WILL have to re-programme to your car (copy the IPC asbuilt files from your car and transfer them to the new cluster) AND have the keys re-programmed too (PATS is in the cluster in a MK2) Ford should re-programme the keys for about £100 Re-programming can also be done by Ford as could mileage adjustment. I suggest popping to Ford and asking them how much to re-configure a 2nd hand cluster and re-programme keys if you tow the vehicle to them once you have fitted the cluster
  14. The MK3.5 1.5 TDCi is a fantastic car, 50+ MPG all day long. The Powershift version is even better. More torque than the manual and slightly better on fuel. Just make sure it has been serviced regularly to correct standards. Make sure you keep the battery fresh as Powershifts are sensitive to voltage drops, clean paint of all earth points too )come back and ask when you get it and I'll describe) If you are too worried about performing DPF regens, don't worry too much, you could get a decent OBD connector and Forscan and about every 1500 miles, once you have warmed the car up enough, you can force a standing DPF regen using Forscan (no need to go on a run)
  15. Just to clarify, The Automatic Transmission in the MK4.5 1.5 Diesel, is the same as in the MK4 - 8 speed Torque converter, with rotary selector The Powershift 7 speed automatic in the MK4.5 1.0 Petrol (and very late MK4, but I doubt they built many) IS NOT related to the 6 speed Powershift used in the MK3. This uses a conventional selector, no rotary. Transmission also used in Fiesta & Puma
  16. Other than rust and water leaks and heater control valve, no
  17. The petrol revs higher so will always go faster in each gear, when accelerating from standstill or rolling start. If you were at 1500 RPM in 3rd gear, both Diesel and Petrol, say 30 MPH in 3rd gear, and floor it, initially the diesel will pull away
  18. MK3.5 1.5 TDCi had torque limiter on 1st gear to protect weak gearbox
  19. MK4 1.5 Ecoblue, both manual and auto, has 300NM torque, whether 95PS or 120PS MK3.5 1.5TDCi (Engine not related) had 270NM for the manual (as the gearbox is weak) and 300NM for the Powershift Auto (as it was the same box as the 2.0 TDCi &ST)
  20. Hi, I know the door and boot drain holes can become blocked and they fill with water. Check they are clear. Run a quite thick line of vasaline over the edge of the boot seal where it makes contact with the tailgate, that will help.
  21. Agreed, put the car in "SPORT" mode and see if it still does it
  22. Can you smell raw diesel fuel? Or burnt Diesel exhaust fumes?
  23. Just choose the best price, the Essex company is charging £95 but there's others charging £54 or £69
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