I'mAnExpertTrustMe

Budding Enthusiast
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About I'mAnExpertTrustMe

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Courtney
  • Ford Model
    ST-2
  • Ford Year
    2014
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Somerset

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  1. Record it and play it through your speakers? Just had a google and god damn that's a hefty price for a box and a piece of my guttering. As Thai said, if you want to keep the current filter, ST200 box will do you well and some cheap hose, but you won't get much more noise. I don't fully condone it, but the easiest way would be to get a MAF Sensor holder, get rid of the box completely, and strap a cone filter on the end, but then you are potentially pulling in too much air/dirt for the turbo, which could just cause more issues, but hey you'd get more sneezing induction sound?
  2. Do love seeing your username pop up in a new post. Gotta find out what funds all of these projects! Will the ST follow the RS Cosmetically (Carbon fibererrered) or do you have other plans? Might have you look into that gearstick setup, very clean.
  3. Volvo Anthracite? Think I read the same post a while back. Was looking at getting mine done a while back but will probably just end up getting a slightly darker metallic silver rather than standard.
  4. You'll want to have a look into the error code causing limp mode. I had the same issue because the previous muppet owner put on a cheap cone filter, meaning that too much air was being sucked in.
  5. Please do know my username is sarcastic - But unless I'm reading this wrong, I'm more concerned that your sideskirt is connected with tape. Mine has small self-tapping bolts to secure it. I can potentially understand just a Poly-filler/Sealant. But if it is just tape, you might want to be careful with that....
  6. Fog Light surrounds are CEUK or AutoBeam (Personally use AutoBeam, but others will prefer CEUK) Eyebrows are CMComposites or TRC, or cheap Ebay ones. 90% come in black, maybe some in carbon. Splitters/side skirt/rear (splitter?) is Delta Styling, CEUK, MaxtonDesign, TRC. Was given MaxtonDesign as a present, they kind of fit? But definitely had to force it to fit well. Pinstripe is available on Ebay, 3mm or 6mm usually. Be careful on price<quality as I bought one that turned out to be a bit transparent? Was definitely cheap as I only wanted to trial it. If yours has the ST style rear bumper, I like the rear diffusers that you can buy, however I made my own with Arcylic very easily. Other Aesthetic Mods - Wind deflector (Which are actually quite functional). - Ford Gel Badges - Wheel Centre cap Gel Badges - Tinted side indicators (But please buy LED indicators so they actually shine through if you do that) - Sunstrip (Which I love, again quite functional) - Mud flaps? I'd definitely let insurance know about bodykit pieces, however stuff you've stuck on, like pinstripe.....don't think it really needs to be mentioned? Happy Modding.
  7. Bought a "Stock" (Stage 2, unknown to me) ST-2 over a year ago. Took it to a dyno and was pushing 218 (Stock filter, stock exhaust, stage 2 intercooler) but got it properly tuned to 230bhp (Was forced to after that whole re-call issue and ford not caring about remaps) I average 40mpg and do a mix of city/motorway miles. My one issue with Mountune/Revo/etc remaps is they chuck in some generic preset values, push it on the dyno, and just show you bhp/torque. However getting a personal remap for exactly the same price, they do 5-6 dyno runs to BEST tune the car to itself. However, it is definitely more fun than stock. I have not gotten tired of driving it after all this time.
  8. Pretty much what Luke says. For 8k~ you could get a 2013 ST, remap, bodykit, and have a nice looking car with 200+bhp for no more than an extra 1k. Unless I've got it wrong, these types of kits are looking to be 2-3k. And that's just the look, if you start going for performance, that figure will more than double. I'm all for having a project car, something you can modify and call your own, but just know you're gonna get a lot of...feedback when you have a rally car that moves like my nan's fiesta. In any case, if you do go ahead with this, I look forward to seeing the progress.
  9. Are you saying just the body? As I assumed the M Sport WRC was a 2013+ 380bhp beast with custom body and rollcage and much more. However because of how much is changed in the kit, I assume it's all new panels/bolt-ons, so it doesn't massively matter about the "shell" beneath it, most variants of Fiesta are pretty similar, and if you're wanting to spend that much on a kit, I'm sure a little extra can be spent to make sure it all fits together. Is this just for a project/bit of fun? Or looking to kit it out?
  10. Same for me, bought a remapped car by Revo (Unknown to me at purchase) and took it to an independent tuner, showed me how it was running rich on fuel and not properly tuned for the car, pushed it to 230 hp. Absolutely love it. Your engine/gearbox should handle it up to roughly 280-300 hp (I think?) Before any real concerns, so not too risky! Enjoy it.
  11. For mine, I had to unscrew the number plate (As it slightly overlaps) and yeah, one hard pull will start to remove the clips. It's a horrible feeling but gotta trust it. Some of these clips did snap off (As they're thin as) but most held in tact.
  12. I'm not familiar with 09 fiestas, but making a few assumptions - If your engine bay is anything like the image below, typically the cone filter will attach to the clamp circled in red, it should come with a MAF sensor housing (that little connection at the top right of my amazing drawing skills). If yours come with this tubing, it may all be detached from the clamps, but there may be a idle air control hose (??) which would also need to be unclipped before you rip the bugger out. (Highlighted Blue because that might not be right)
  13. Basically what the 2 above are saying. To simplify in terms of flow - 0 is water - 30 is honey. Both will work just fine in the ST, and a 5W30 might help if you are a little heavy footed. Some say 5W30 is used because normally it is cheaper and makes the enginer quieter (Negligible?) And supposedly it comes out of ford factories with 5W30 in it. But the issue is you will always get conflicting opinions as in the grand scheme, they aren't all that different. I believe most garages would probably go for 5W20 as that's the first choice.
  14. Glad to hear you've got it to stick down! Should stay there, but just go gentle when cleaning.
  15. No worries. Means that I can update as a year later - No error has been repeated and haven't had my engine go into limp mode since. (And I've done my fair share of abusing that engine with mods) So I can only assume the cheap kitchen-sponge of a filter the previous owner put on, wasn't actually acting as a filter. But thanks for giving more info incase anyone else is suffering.